James Long Para Behala

Time of India

2 days ago

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Once the path of a chugging narrow-gauge railway meandering through sleepy hamlets on Kolkata's outskirts, James Long Sarani (JLS) has transformed into one of the city's most vibrant culinary corridors.
The metamorphosis is so complete, it is hard to believe that this bustling food street in Behala was once home to a quaint British-era light railway line connecting Kalighat to Falta, with sleepy hamlets on either side.
Today, as one walks down the stretch from Roy Bahadur Road to Silpara, it's no longer the sound of train whistles or steam engines that greets the ears — it's the aroma of kebabs sizzling on skewers, the whir of blenders in coffee shops, the clatter of cutlery in air-conditioned lounges, and the cheerful chatter of food lovers.
The 'sweeping change' actually happened post-Covid. "Its metamorphosis from a regular, busy thoroughfare to a food street in less than 10 years has hardly any parallel anywhere else," says Dhruba Bhattacharya, a physician who grew up here and runs his chamber on JLS.
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Much before this upsurge, JLS was marked by a 'theme puja' insurrection in the last decade of the 20th century. "It was no less than an artistic revolt against traditional Barowari Durgotsav.
The theme puja wave happened on either side of JLS. Later, its influence spread to west Behala as well," says Bimal Samanta, an elderly artist and one of the precursors of theme art for Durgotsav.
A New Culinary Nerve Centre
JLS has emerged as the new 'eat street' of Kolkata — a food destination that rivals the likes of Southern Avenue and Park Street. Whether you're craving a lavish Bengali lunch, a quick bite of continental fusion, or a late-night bowl of noodles, this road has it all.
For traditional Bengali fare, places like 'Koshe Kosha' continue to charm with their Mahabhoj Thali and whole ilish bhapa. If you're craving steaks and Mexican delicacies, Burnfield Cafe has become a popular niche haunt, despite its small seating capacity.
The café culture is flourishing here. Celestial Cafe, Tribe Cafe, and Extra Cheese Bistro offer everything. "Those in search of mainstream bites have long relied on the two-storey Domino's, while Tea Junction continues to serve chai and adda in equal measure," says Anirban Dhar, a JLS resident who is fascinated by this transformation of the street.
Dinner options? From Hatari's generous Chinese platters to Chowman's seafood specials, from Tandoor Park's or Tandoori Darbar's Mughlai delights to the newly opened Sartaj's luxurious spreads, this food street caters to every taste and budget.
And of course, dessert isn't an afterthought here. With Baskin Robbins and Cafe Lavassa standing shoulder to shoulder, it's easy to follow up a kebab platter with a cheesecake or a scoop of cookie crunch.
The Path Beneath Your Feet
But what lies underneath this gourmet avenue is a story that deserves remembering. JLS was once the railbed of the Kalighat–Falta Railway (KFR), built in 1917 by McLeod's Light Railways. This 2 ft 6 in narrow-gauge line ferried people and produce between Behala and the riverine towns beyond.
Running at a loss, KFR was shut down in 1957. Its tracks were dismantled, and the rail route was repurposed into a road — a pragmatic solution to a logistical problem.
And so began the slow but sure urbanisation of Behala. The KFR ground, a popular public playground belonging to the railways, still bears the fading memory.
Today, as public transport improves with the upcoming metro and the street continues to evolve, few pause to think that the very street they dine on was once a railway line through villages and green fields. "JLS has been an avenue with tall trees covering its path from either sidewalk.
But the widening of the road in 2012-13, felling hundreds of trees, left it completely bereft of its green cover. The reduced width of the sidewalk has also made it unsafe for pedestrians," said Gour Mukherjee, an octogenarian resident of JLS.
James Long Sarani, named in his honour, stands as a living legacy — a street where history runs beneath modern-day wheels and footsteps. From railway track to food track, the evolution of James Long Sarani is not just about urban transformation — it's a story of a city's layered past finding space beneath its ever-evolving present.