
Britain's ailing seaside towns weren't always so murky and grey
Most people assume – as I did, until recently – that the murkiness of the English sea is an unfortunate but timeless feature of our geography. Not so. For most of history, the waters around this island were, on a calm day, as crystalline and blue as those of Greece, Bermuda or Norway.
If you don't believe me, here is an eye-witness account. When English seaside towns were at their late-Victorian zenith, this newspaper had a regular column of coastal news, entitled By the Silver Sea. 'Seldom has Brighton looked so gay; never could its obvious etymology have been more triumphantly justified,' declares a typically enthusiastic dispatch. 'Bright was the parade with well-dressed crowds and gaily flaunting pennons; bright was the clear green sea with its purple streaks and patches of deep growing seaweed that clings to the chalk beneath…'
In Folkestone, 'the deep blue sea is glass like'. In Sanddown, 'the blue water, heated to a comfortable temperature by washing over the sun-warmed sands, ripples up to the steps [of the bathing machine], and the soft sand slopes gradually, but not too slowly, to any depth one desires'. These archives reveal an English sea of pellucid natural beauty, not unlike the kind we now go abroad in search of.
The decline of England's seaside towns is usually ascribed to social and economic factors: the advent of cheap flights in the Seventies luring holiday makers away to more exotic climes. But what if it was also a response to the worsening condition of our seaside, and the sea itself?
The clarity of seawater is measured by lowering a white disc, known as a Secchi disc, into the sea until it becomes invisible to the naked eye. Between 1900 and 2000, the Secchi depth measurement of the North Sea reduced by around 50 per cent, with most of that decline occurring in the latter half of the century. Not coincidentally, this was when modern industrial farming took off, leading to a huge increase in soil erosion and chemical run-off.
The agricultural pollution billowing out from our rivers is now met, at sea, by clouds of sediment caused by coastal erosion, deep sea trawling, dredging and mining. Add the increasingly frequent overflows from our overstretched sewerage system, stir it all together, and you get the chilly brown soup that you and I have come, without realising it, to mistake for normal.
There is a lot that could be done to restore our seas to their former limpidity, from planting cover crops, which reduce soil erosion, to updating our sewers and regulating the fishing industry. But these changes won't happen without some kind of public clamour. And why would the public clamour for something it has forgotten ever existed?
Whereas most people still remember our once-clean rivers – and get correspondingly exercised about their pollution – generations of English girls and boys have now grown up holidaying beside a gruel-coloured sea. Or, more likely, taking a short flight to somewhere that still has a clear blue vista.

Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles


BBC News
an hour ago
- BBC News
Jersey Tidal Trail aims to lure visitors to island
A trail inspired by the South West Coast Path in England and Ireland's Wild Atlantic Way has been launched in Jersey Tidal Trail aimed "to showcase the island's stunning coastline, rich heritage and unique tidal landscape", said Visit trail, encircles the island and spans more than 48 miles (77km), includes "magnificent castles, secret bunkers and ancient headlands", the organisation hoped the trail encouraged repeat visits to the island and boosted spending at shops, hotels and attractions along the route. Visit Jersey said the trail was broken up into sections with four difficulty ratings - easy, moderate, challenging and expert - and there was no official start or end recommended walking in a clockwise direction to follow wayfinding guides more route is available on hiking apps Komoot and Strava.


Times
2 hours ago
- Times
17 of the best rooftop bars in London
Whether on a sunny day or under a velvety night sky, the Big Smoke is a thing of beauty, and there are few better places to appreciate the seemingly endless sprawl than at one of its brilliant rooftop bars. Be it impromptu after-work team drinks or a big get-together that has been lighting up the group chat for months, you'll find a roof in the capital to suit, from sky-high odes to maximalist design in buzzy Soho to eclectic DJ sets and Med-inspired small plates high above the neon billboards in Shoreditch. Set the sat-nav for the City if you're looking for the kind of glass-walled glamour that invites slowly sipping something icy while watching the light bounce off skyscrapers. A little south, in Peckham, you'll find effortlessly cool design and menus without the kind of pretentiousness that sometimes accompanies them in other postcodes. Sundowners come with a garnish of prime people-watching, while King's Cross looks a lot more appealing from a bird's-eye perspective than from among the crowds thronging to trains. Wherever you choose, it's always a good idea to book ahead because the most coveted hang-outs fill up fast, and with good reason. Get ready to charge your glasses — these are the best rooftop bars in London — some of them housed in great hotels so you can really make the most of it. This article contains affiliate links, which may earn us revenue The trendy, tree-themed Treehouse hotel has the BBC building as a neighbour and Oxford Street round the corner. It's a funky base, particularly the low-lit, 16th-floor rooftop terrace, which is decked out in wood, comfy armchairs and hanging lanterns, with panoramic views over the London skyline. There are DJ sets on Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings, and dogs are welcome every Sunday afternoon. The drinks list is biblical in length (must-tries include the citrussy melon sour) and there's an all-day menu with mezze and charcuterie boards, as well as pork belly bao buns and burgers. The Amano hotel puts you within easy reach of the best theatres in London, but you'll want to make time for a sundowner at its trendy rooftop bar before the curtain call. The seventh-floor terrace has top-notch views over the city — you can spot the London Eye, St Paul's Cathedral and the Shard from your table — and the sunsets here are particularly pretty. There's live jazz every Thursday evening from September, and the unusual cocktails pack a punch (try the ginger spice, made with rum, ginger liqueur and liquorice bitters). The food is tapas style (ox cheek croquetas, tuna tostadas, pan con tomate), but if you're looking for a proper meal you'll want to head downstairs to Penelope's, the hotel's lively Spanish and Middle Eastern-style restaurant — the massive portions of baklava cheesecake are the highlight here. This elegant Japanese bar-restaurant has a retractable roof and a wraparound terrace with sprawling views over Belgravia, making it a popular (yet surprisingly peaceful) spot during the summer months and beyond. You won't find yourself perched on an uncomfortable stool here; instead it's all comfy cream sofas and sleek, plump-cushioned chairs. Cocktails are Japanese in style — many drinks are saké-based, including a properly refreshing sakura spritz made using apricot liqueur — and food is a real highlight, with sushi served alongside robata grill dishes such as spicy lamb chops with chilli sauce. Its name being a nod to the 19th-century flute maker once based on the same street, the Broadwick Soho hotel's rooftop bar has something of the Pied Piper about it, with its sumptuous, Martin Brudnizki-designed interiors and leafy alfresco terrace having attracted a devoted following. Featuring shimmering metallics and animal-print upholstery in botanical brights, the look is one described by Brudnizki as 'cocooned comfort with maximalist glamour'. Order a Peeping Tom — a blend of 12-year-old Santiago de Cuba rum, acai berry, oloroso sherry, black tea and bitters — and graze on refined comfort classics such as buttermilk fried chicken, all while enjoying views of Soho's fabled skyline. You can see as far as Hampstead Heath from the rooftop bar at the Mandarin Oriental Mayfair, one of glitziest London hotel openings of last year. ABar is just as swish as the rest of the hotel, packed with dramatic burgundy and gold tones, plush leather armchairs and a typically starry Mayfair crowd. The panoramic skyline views from the outdoor terrace area are the crowning glory, but the cocktails — themed by season, with a tangy tomato and olive number among the summer bunch — are excellent too. Live music performances (think cool London DJs and saxophonists) take place on Thursday and Saturday evenings. Note, though, that there's a £50pp minimum spend on food and drinks. This rooftop bar on the 15th floor of art'otel London Battersea Power Station is the place to be during the summer months, with DJ sets, flavour-packed Portuguese small plates (octopus with black aioli, pulled jackfruit, chicken piri skewers) and a cocktail list that includes cooling margarita slushies. Tables have 360-degree views over the Thames, Battersea Power Station and the hotel's 12.5m infinity pool; note, though, that the pool is only available to hotel guests. Read our full review of art'otel London Battersea Power Station Open since summer 2024, Kaso feels like the kind of place you'd congratulate yourself for having discovered on a getaway in Athens, say, or Izmir, perhaps. Happily, though, you'll only have to travel as far as the verdant seventh-floor terrace of the One Hundred Shoreditch hotel to enjoy similar sun-soaked Mediterranean and Aegean vibes, with a little added East End edge. Come for the cocktails — signature pour Kasonist is a heady muddle of Grey Goose vodka, Greek wine and watermelon — and stay for the DJs and flavour-packed small plates by the Istanbul-born chef Ilknur Celik. On Fridays and Saturdays the party goes on till 1am. • Best hotels in London with pools• Best UK hotels with outdoor pools The clock tower, solemn statues and faded white dome of St Paul's Cathedral feel within touching distance of this garden-themed rooftop bar. Located on the seventh floor of Leonardo Royal Hotel, Sabine opened in 2021, and thanks to its relative newness it remains less crowded than neighbouring drinking spots. If there are no vacant tables on the outdoor terrace, the floor-to-ceiling windows and retractable roof of the interior ensure that the cathedral is always within sight, while the foliage-draped circular bar offers a front-row vantage point for watching bartenders mix up theatrical smoking cocktails and frozen twists on negronis. The Standard hotel group's first foray outside the United States brought them to London to take over the brutalist former Camden Town Hall Annex. In keeping with the fun, 1970s theme of the bedrooms, the Astroturf rooftop — open seasonally — has baby-pink banquettes and close-up views of the red-brick spires and gothic revival façade of St Pancras station. Cocktails on tap include Spicy Tommy's margaritas, with slushy Aperol spritzes for warm days. Peter Sanchez-Iglesias, the celebrated chef of Decimo, located on the tenth floor, has a hand in the menu of the bright red food truck that serves Mexican-inspired bites here. Skip through Selfridges' fragrance section to a dedicated lift that zooms you to a slice of Sicily as glamorous as the designer labels on the shop floors below. The rooftop restaurant and bar is so pretty that it's easy to forgive the lack of views; ceiling beams strung with faux lemons and white blossoms, shuttered windows and a retractable roof for sunny days create an Italian oasis. Aperol spritzes and bellini Venezianas grace the drinks list, while an extensive food menu covers favourites from lobster ravioli to grilled artichokes with mint sauce. We couldn't not mention this East London staple and its blooming brilliant rooftop garden. Tables are surrounded by crab apple, hazel and birch trees, so the view beyond them comes with added surprise factor — glance past the leaves and you'll spot the Gherkin and other gleaming skyscrapers. Cocktail garnishes are picked from the garden itself — botanic-inspired specials include a tangy 'sweet cicely sour' — and much of the food comes from the Culpeper Family Farm in Deptford. It's all delicious, so tables get booked up far in advance: eat up the views alongside lamb ribs and chops cooked on the grill, mackerel pâté on toast, and a smashing Rooftop Mess meringue dessert that uses wild strawberries from the garden. At the top of a bubblegum-pink staircase in a multistorey car park, Frank's Café has become a summer stalwart in south London. First opened in 2009 by the not-for-profit organisation Bold Tendencies as a sculpture exhibition space and café, the rooftop spot has returned each year to showcase different artists. That aside, come for the brunches and negronis with a backdrop of the Shard and City skyscrapers. What the skyscrapers of Canary Wharf lack in neighbourhood charm, they make up for in unforgettable views. Based in the Novotel hotel, Bokan has taken over floors 37 to 39 and has some of the most impressive vistas in the city. On the 37th floor, the stylish industrial restaurant has been awarded two AA rosettes for its European take on dishes such as Herefordshire beef and rabbit tagine. On clear days, time your visit to the 39th-floor roof terrace and gin bar to coincide with the sunset — thanks to the west-facing position you will catch the last rays of the day over the Thames, South Bank and towering buildings of the City. • Best free things to do in London• Best things to do in London This former car park has been repurposed as an adults' playground, with almost every inch of its open-air space full of distractions. Watch classic films from a giant deckchair at the outdoor cinema or flex your competitive muscles with the baseball batting cages, archery targets, crazy golf or lawn bowls. Big groups are well catered for with brightly coloured benches and food trucks that serve burgers, fried chicken, Turkish pide and kebabs. Drinks such as Sunset Fizz — a muddle of passion fruit, vodka and prosecco — promise a sugar rush. Thanks to its location on the ninth floor of Hyatt Place London City East, at the edge of the City, PocketSquare offers some of the best views of the Square Mile skyline. The outdoor space wraps around the central bar, which is under cover should it rain. There are only a handful of seats, so get there early to enjoy cold beers and cocktails inspired by its east London location. And if you need some late-night nibbles, the curry houses of Brick Lane are just a short stroll away. Housed in the grade I listed shell of a former church, the stained glass windows of Mercato Mayfair make it the most visually arresting food hall you'll find anywhere. But without air conditioning, it gets pretty stuffy in the summer. So instead, grab your craft beer, gin cocktail or chilled glass of rosé and head for the roof, where you can survey the fine architecture around you from the courtyard-style terrace. Need more chill? There's also an ice-cream counter with deliciously creamy gelato. Located on the seventh-floor rooftop of the citizenM Tower of London hotel, cloudM overlooks the historic landmark from its open-air terrace. There's no outdoor furniture here, opening up the space for more people to take in the views. If it's chilly or you simply want to kick back, there's also indoor space where you can lounge on comfy couches or upholstered armchairs. The food menu is mostly nibbles, but when it comes to drinks the extensive gin-based cocktail list is ideal for summer days. Additional reporting by Qin Xie and Faith Strickland • Best boutique hotels in London• London heatwave: 14 places to keep cool Have we missed any? Share your recommendations in the comments


BBC News
5 hours ago
- BBC News
Euro 2025 Wales v England rival fans gather in St. Gallen
Thousands of Welsh and English football fans have arrived in the Swiss city of St. Gallen before Sunday's Euro 2025 match between the two countries.A win will guarantee England's Lionesses a place in the last eight of the will be eliminated unless they beat England by four goals or more and the Netherlands lose to have lost their two opening Group D matches to the Dutch and French, each by three goal margins, while England bounced back from a loss to France with a 4-0 win against the Netherlands. England fan Vicky Morgan, 40, from Surbiton in south west London, has travelled to Switzerland with Welsh friends Hannah Maddy, 39, from Barry and 43-year-old Jo McSweeney from Penarth, Vale of Glamorgan."We've been friends for a very long time. We met while at Cardiff University but still stay close and have been in Switzerland for two days," said Vicky."I was at the last final that we won [England are the defending champions]. It was an immense game and since then the game has just grown and grown."It's great to see so many young fans watching the Lionesses. I'm a teacher myself so it has grown the game in schools as well."Despite Wales being on the brink of a group stage exit, Hannah and Jo still feel Wales could cause an upset:"I've got all the hope. I reckon 4-0 and England to be knocked out," said Jo."I'd take that," added Hannah. "I reckon 5-1, [Jess] Fishlock hat-trick, [Sophie] Ingle and Ffion Morgan." Phillip Spakouskas is a 48-year-old St. Gallen native who will be supporting England because his father is English."I was buzzing knowing England would be coming here and seeing all the fans, even Welsh fans on Tuesday and Wednesday - they were fantastic - and I'm really looking forward to Sunday as well," he said."I saw the France v Wales game [in St. Gallen] and I thought the Welsh girls were quite good but the French were better and I think England will be massive favourites."I thought they [England] weren't up to it against France but against the Netherlands they were really good."Phillip said the people of St. Gallen had embraced being a host location at Euro 2025 and hopes there will be a legacy in place for women's football, especially in Switzerland."It started slowly then the first game was Germany v Poland and from then on it really has been buzzing," he added."I've met a lot of fans in St. Gallen - German, Polish, French and Welsh. They all say it's a nice city, not big but it has nice architecture and it's clean."For women's football it's the next step, England was buzzing three years ago [when they hosted the tournament] but this is another step."Birmingham couple Mike and Carol Adams, 67 and 70 respectively, follow the Lionesses across the world and have high hopes of qualification for the knockout stages despite the early tournament defeat to France in Zurich."It's massively important to be here and fingers crossed for a win," said Mike."When you look at the draw, it has certainly favoured other people hasn't it? Because we are in the toughest group there's no doubt about that."She [England coach Sarina Wiegman] changed the tactics. The first game she just seemed to allow them to sit back and Hempo [Lauren Hemp] and Bronzey [Lucy Bronze] never ever went down the sides and the French just came on to us and realised they could beat us."I'd like to think we can win the tournament but Spain are really hot aren't they?"Carol has enjoyed meeting Welsh fans since arriving in St. Gallen, saying: "It's wonderful. It's what you want, everybody here from the United Kingdom, so it's great to have Wales here and the banter is brilliant."Mike added: "We are on a campsite not too far away surrounded by Welsh fans and we were sat drinking with them last night. Everyone wants a good game." Among the expected 3,500 Welsh fans in St. Gallen are representatives of the Wales women's walking football Clemence, 58, is from Cardiff and has travelled with teammates Leanne Williams, 47, from Mountain Ash, Rhondda Cynon Taf, and Juliette Payne, who's lived in Merthyr Tydfil for 27 said: "We've been to Sweden for the world walking football championships last weekend representing Wales in different age categories. The over-40s got into the semi finals and the over-50s reached the quarter finals. It's a tough three days - 25 minute games, three or four times a day."We travelled across by train and boat to get here via Munich in Germany. You see the kids going around with the ladies' names on the backs of their shirts, we didn't have that in our day. It's come on so much in the last 30 years."Aneurin Williams has travelled with members of his family from Blaenau Gwent, and said: "We have all the faith [against England], we've got the fans, and we can always do England over, they've got nothing special about them. We've had friendly banter with England fans."Linda Rosser from Merthyr Tydfil agrees, saying: "Absolutely they can. I've got every faith in them."We came out for the French game, so we came out on Tuesday. It has been amazing, we're having a fantastic time."