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I'm a Frequent Flier Living in Europe, and These 16 Genius Prime Day Deals Make Every Trip Smoother—From $9

I'm a Frequent Flier Living in Europe, and These 16 Genius Prime Day Deals Make Every Trip Smoother—From $9

One of my favorite things about living in Europe is the relative closeness of so many other countries and regions, which has me taking flights almost all the time. From my adopted home city of Milan, I can take a quick flight to Jordan, visit London for a weekend for the Béyonce concert, or hop over to the Greek islands for a solo excursion. I'm also frequently on long-haul flights with my toddler to visit family and friends back home on the East Coast in the U.S.
Considering all of this, I'm always excited and open to anything that makes my trips easier and more seamless. With Amazon Prime Day underway, there are a few must-have travel accessories and essentials in my cart that I'm excited to receive in time for summer holidays. Whether you need those easy-to-pack water shoes for stony beaches on Lake Garda, a multi-purpose passport holder to stay organized, or some fashionable shoes inspired by European style, here's how to make the many Prime Day deals work for your next vacation.
I've been eyeing the Cotopaxi Allpa Travel Pack as it's a versatile travel bag for almost any type of trip because it can be used as a backpack or converted into a duffle. However, I found a similar convertible weekender on sale for just $23 during Prime Day that can be worn on your back or carried as a duffel. It has a shoe compartment to keep your footwear separate from your clothes, plus a laptop pocket.
About 15 years ago, I headed to Southern Italy to au pair for two months and packed everything in a big carry-on. My host family marveled that I didn't seem to wear a look twice despite arriving with such little luggage. My secret? Compression packing cubes, much like this Olarhike 10-pack that's on sale for Prime Day for $30 and can sometimes double your luggage space. These cubes compress your clothes without turning them into a wrinkled mess like vacuum bags often do.
A classic lightweight crossbody bag seems to be the go-to bag option for people on the go here in Italy. Since traveling with my toddler, I've noticed a lot of Italian parents go hands-free at the airport with these bags; they keep their phones, passports, and more in lightweight crossbody bags, much like this Vera Bradley sling bag I'm eyeing, on sale for half off this Prime Day. It has an interior zipped pocket for organization, and it's designed to be feather-light so it won't add any bulk to your travel day.
Without a doubt, my Apple AirTags give me peace of mind when checking bags. I've been that person who has gone up to airport personnel in baggage claim at Milan Malpensa, showing them that my gate-checked item was still somewhere near the plane and hasn't moved. I highly recommend the set of four for the absent-minded traveler like myself, so you can keep track of keys, luggage, wallets, and more. They're at a rare low price of $65 right now for Prime Day.
Zipping through airports as a travel writer, I always found it easy to keep a passport holder with me for storing my passport—and now my daughter's passport, too, plus our European cards. This leather holder is just $24 for Prime Day and has a zipper and pocket for keeping items secure, plus it's made with RFID-blocking technology to protect your most sensitive documents. The four card slots and ID window pocket also ensure you can easily keep your license or other ID cards, plus credit and debit cards, in one convenient place.
One of my packing essentials when traveling solo is a door wedge. Whether I'm staying at a guesthouse or a hotel, it's a simple thing to slip in my bag that gives me that little extra piece of mind in travel safety. A standard rubber door wedge will do, but with Amazon Prime Day deals, you can have this two-pack with an alarm for just $12, which is great if the place you're staying has more than one entrance. The alarm is an added layer of security if you're a heavy sleeper or sleep with earplugs.
When I'm on vacation or visiting a new place, I've found that a light hike could be a great way to explore vistas. Shoes are the items that weigh down my suitcase the most, and because I'm not one to go to the gym, I loathe bringing an extra pair of sneakers on a trip. Instead, I always pack my Teva Hurricane Sandals when I head to any warm weather location; I've worn these sandals basically everywhere, including exploring Cinque Terre, going on waterfall hikes in Grenada, and rowing on Lake Braies. As a Tevas devotee, I'm always scouring Amazon for sales, and I was pleased to find this favorite pair on sale for $57.
Europeans style a chic silk scarf like no other—and now I always keep one in my carry-on. It protects my hair from friction on airplane seats and helmet hair on Vespa rides, and it's a stylish solution for masking beach hair. I prefer silk since it's more breathable than other synthetic fabrics, so I'm eying Amazon Prime Day for discounts on beautiful patterned silk scarves.
Heading to the Italian lake region this summer? We live in the area and regularly visit the lakes on weekends. Very few of the beach fronts are sandy, and on a recent trip, my husband stopped at a sports gear store to buy these water shoes. Wearing my Tevas, I thought he was being extreme, but when I got to the stone beach, I noticed almost all of the Italians were wearing them. The beachfront was filled with stones, and some of them were quite jagged! The non-slip soles help on mossy rocks, and the compact size makes them easy to pack. These Homitem water shoes are on sale for under $10, so it's a no-brainer to just keep for all of your adventure travels.
A more stylish alternative to the water show is the fully PVC fisherman-style jelly sandal. Years ago, when packing for a trip with an itinerary including the Dead Sea, I bought these sandals after considering them a more stylish alternative to water shoes. Years after that, I eagerly packed them for another trip to the Dead Sea and wore them quite a bit on that trip. This is definitely a stylish alternative to the water shoe that's fast drying and will serve a double purpose as a great shoe for being out and about on your warm weather travels.
I started using pocket tripods years ago when traveling solo and taking content for social media, but my tripod and selfie stick come out more these days when traveling with my family. I love taking shots with all of us, whether it's a beautiful, quiet street or in front of a building. And the remote control setting gives us a little freedom to take as many shots as we need to get it just right. Plus, it breaks down so compactly, it's easy to fit in your travel bag.
While on beach holiday here, I see the most stylish tote bags, most of the time made of raffia or straw. Easy to pack and a great carryall for a beach day, market run, or day exploring, this straw-style beach bag screams holiday, and it's on sale for just $18 this Prime Day.
Where I live in Europe seems greener, from the non-detachable plastic caps to bringing your own bag to carry groceries. And those beautiful decorative water fountains in Italy, people actually drink from them and fill their water bottles! While a Stanley tumbler is extremely American , a chic water bottle that's insulated and stays cool on a hot day is appreciated. This Ello Pop & Fill water bottle comes in tons of stylish, understated hues. It has a leak-proof lid and is designed to keep beverages cold for up to 24 hours—perfect for a long-haul flight or a sweaty walking tour through a European city.
Amazon Prime Day is a great time to get those little things that you don't need , but that would make your vacation more pleasant. And when those items are on sale, they are all the more tempting. Like this Hiearcool Waterproof Phone Pouch. I was always suspicious whether these waterproof pouches actually work, until I tried one underwater on a family trip to the Red Sea. I captured some pretty incredible images of coral reef life and saw a lot of fellow vacationers using them, so I can now vouch for how effective they are. And with two of these pouches on sale for just $12, now is a great time to grab them.
These raffia open-weave Mary Jane flats are a Prime Day splurge, but at 38 percent off, I can't resist. Mary Janes have taken over the streets here in Italy, and these raffia-style shoes are a great chic, but airy choice. An elegant pair of ballet flats can elevate a look and is an easy option to pack for evening dinners and strolls.
Some hotels offer limited hair and skincare options, so I like to travel with my own shampoo. Considering those pesky TSA liquid regulations, the best hack for me is to use shampoo bars ; I can take more product with me in this solid, travel-friendly bar. Plus, they're often made with natural materials and are sulfate-free, like this Viori shampoo bar; it's made with rice water that moisturizes and promotes hair growth.
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Nordstrom's Anniversary Sale Is Packed With Massive Deals on Travel Staples—Shop Our 83 Top Finds, From $12
Nordstrom's Anniversary Sale Is Packed With Massive Deals on Travel Staples—Shop Our 83 Top Finds, From $12

Travel + Leisure

timean hour ago

  • Travel + Leisure

Nordstrom's Anniversary Sale Is Packed With Massive Deals on Travel Staples—Shop Our 83 Top Finds, From $12

The Nordstrom Anniversary Sale has officially landed—and if you're still piecing together travel outfits for an upcoming trip (like I am), the timing couldn't be better. As the retailer's biggest sale of the year, it features up to 62 percent off travel-ready finds across the board, from breezy midi dresses and linen button-downs to sleek luggage sets and chic travel accessories. Whether you're packing for a long-haul adventure or just want to elevate your weekend travel rotation, this sale has plenty to offer. Think polished airport outfits that prioritize comfort, supportive walking shoes you'll actually want to wear, and smart crossbody bags that keep essentials close. Top brands like Away, Tumi, Birkenstock, Levi's, and Samsonite are all included, and with prices starting at just $12, it's worth giving your travel wardrobe (and gear) a serious refresh. Nordstrom just dropped major deals on women's clothing—and it's the kind of stylish, travel-ready selection that makes refreshing your summer wardrobe feel like a no-brainer. I'm heading on two vacations this season, and my cart is filled with versatile sale finds, like this Tie Front Cotton Mini Dress that works as both a swimsuit cover-up and an easy dinner look. The Eileen Fisher High-Waist Wide-leg Pants are more than $50 off and ideal for long travel days, while the $19 Everyday Invisible Edge Camisole from Nordstrom's namesake brand is the kind of layering staple you should never pack without. Nordstrom Everyday Invisilble Edge Camisole Top, $19 (originally $29) Nordstrom Tie-front Cotton Mini Dress, $39 (originally $59) Free People High Roller Denim Jumpsuit, $50 (originally $98) Caslon Drawstring Terry Pants, $39 (originally $60) Wayf Gemma Plaid Pleated Skirt, $70 (originally $95) Zella Effortless Square-neck Midi Dress, $60 (originally $89) Nordstrom Cotton Poplin Button-up Shirt, $66 (originally $100) Zella Ultrasoft High-waist Knit Shorts, $33 (originally $49) Commando Classic Slip Dress, $59 (originally $108) Vince Camuto Cowl-neck Sleeveless Blouse, $46 (originally $69) Madewell Back Pleat Classic T-shirt, $28 (originally $48) Open Edit Curator Trousers, $66 (originally $100) Treasure & Bond Eyelet Cotton and Linen Button-up Shirt, $66 (originally $99) BP Mini Sweat Shorts, $20 (originally $30) Commando Butter Camisole, $39 (originally $68) Eileen Fisher High-waist Wide-leg Pants, $105 (originally $158) Wayf Cassie Cardigan, $65 (originally $85) If you're heading somewhere this summer—whether it's a beach escape, a city break, or just a weekend away—Nordstrom's shoe deals are packed with travel-ready finds that blend comfort and style. I spotted markdowns on some of my favorite go-tos, like the fan-favorite Birkenstock Arizona Big Buckle Sandals, now $60 off. There are also sleek everyday sneakers like the Dolce Vita Notice pair, which are almost $50 off, while the BCBGeneration Lulu Flip-flops are 56 percent off. Birkenstock Arizona Big Buckle Slide Sandals, $110 (originally $170) Dolce Vita Notice Sneakers, $90 (originally $139) Hoka Bondi 8 Running Shoes, $120 (originally $165) BCBGeneration Lulu Flip-flops, $30 (originally $69) Ecco Flowt Oasis Sandals, $69 (originally $120) Vionic Dillon Flip-flops, $50 (originally $95) On Cloudnova 2 Sneakers, $90 (originally $160) Vionic Mabel Slide Sandal, $90 (originally $140) Ecco Soft 60 Aeon Sneakers, $100 (originally $175) Cole Haan Bethany Ballerina Flats, $90 (originally $150) Vionic Heloise Mary Jane Flats, $90 (originally $135) Marc Fisher LTF Narda Raffia Slide Sandals, $60 (originally $89) Toms Sloane Ankle Strap Sandals, $49 (originally $70) Nordstrom's men's clothing deals are packed with elevated basics and polished travel staples—many of which are ideal for your next trip. The Levi's 511 Slim-Fit Stretch Jeans are a standout at half off, and they're versatile enough to wear from a day of sightseeing straight to dinner. The BP Core Crewneck T-shirt for just $12, a breathable staple you can layer under a button-down on the plane or toss on with shorts. Plus, the Cotton & Tencel Modal Lounge Pants are a must for airport days or long travel legs. Nordstrom Solid Short-sleeve Linen Button-up Shirt, $56 (originally $80) Vuori Aim Shorts, $59 (originally $74) Nordstrom Check Short-sleeve Button-up Shirt, $40 (originally $80) Levi's 511 Slim-fit Stretch Jeans, $35 (originally $70) Peter Millar Crown Crafted Albatross Quarter-zip, $75 (originally $150) Johnnie-O Matthis Stripe Polo Shirt, $53 (originally $89) Nordstrom Slim Straight Cotton Twill Chinos, $40 (originally $80) Nordstrom Cotton and Modal Crewneck T-shirt, $21 (originally $38) Rokka&Rolla Comfort Swim Trunks, $30 (originally $49) Treasure & Bond Button-up Shirt, $46 (originally $65) Nordstrom Cotton and Tencel Modal Lounge Pants, $36 (originally $48) BP Core Crewneck T-shirt, $12 (originally $19) Skims Stretch Cotton Lounge Shorts, $45 (originally $64) Whether you're planning a city escape or hitting the beach, Nordstrom's men's shoe deals include stylish, travel-ready picks at steep discounts. The Cole Haan GrandPro Rally Sneakers are more than $70 off and perfect for navigating airports or cobblestone streets, while the Lands' End Slip-on Water Shoes are just $25 and ideal for beach days, boat trips, or rocky shorelines. You'll also find everyday staples from top brands like New Balance, Birkenstock, and AllSaints. Johnston & Murphy Hayden Oxford Shoes, $100 (originally $139) AllSaints Biggy Slide Sandals, $50 (originally $89) Autry Medalist Sneakers, $140 (originally $215) Cole Haan GrandPro Rally Sneakers, $96 (originally $168) Birkenstock Arizona Soft Slide Sandal, $84 (originally $155) Florsheim Vibe Knit Derby Shoes, $60 (originally $110) Nordstrom Cody Driving Loafer, $60 (originally $90) Lands' End Comfort Slide Sandals, $30 (originally $60) New Balance 480 Basketball Sneakers, $60 (originally $90) Vince Oasis Sneakers, $175 (originally $250) Lands' End Slip-on Water Shoes, $25 (originally $50) Samuel Hubbard Camino Water Shoes, $150 (originally $225) True Religion ASAP Logo Slides, $41 (originally $69) A. Veer Rioza Sandals, $79 (originally $99) Feelgoodz Zensole Flip-flop Thong Sandals, $40 (originally $60) If your suitcase has seen better days, Nordstrom's luggage deals are an ideal excuse to upgrade ahead of your next trip. The Bugatti Classic 2-Piece Hardside Luggage Set is a standout steal at 62 percent off. Even Away's famously sleek and functional suitcases are on rare sale in both the 22-inch Carry-on and 26-inch Spinner, perfect whether you pack light or need a bit more space. You'll also find deep discounts on Samsonite, Tumi, and Béis ahead. Away Flex 22-inch Bigger Spinner Carry-on Luggage, $258 (originally $345) Bugatti Classic 2-hardside Luggage Set, $190 (originally $500) Away Flex 26-inch Spinner Suitcase, $296 (originally $395) Béis Large 29-inch Expandable Check-in Roller, $275 (originally $368) Bugatti Lison 2-piece Hardside Luggage Set, $190 (originally $500) Tumi V4 Collection International Carry-on Luggage, $525 (originally $750) Samsonite Virtuosa Backpack and Carry-on 2-piece Set, $195 (originally $290) Samsonite Octiv 2-piece Set, $290 (originally $430) Travelpro Maxlite Air 3-piece Luggage Set, $400 (originally $620) Bugatti Lisbon Checked Luggage, $120 (originally $240) Samsonite Omni PC 2-piece Luggage Set, $250 (originally $390) Nonstop New York 3-piece Luggage Set and Packing Cube Set, $180 (originally $320) From sleek backpacks to smart luggage add-ons, Nordstrom's travel accessory deals include stylish upgrades that are as functional as they are discounted. At 61 percent off, the Baboon to the Moon Rectangle Sacoche is a compact, weather-resistant crossbody that's perfect for keeping your essentials close on travel days. I'm also loving the Maison de Sabré Apple AirTag Charm, which adds a polished touch to any bag while keeping your tracker secure and your luggage looking cute. A high-quality find, the Tumi Alpha Brave Nellis Backpack is over $100 off and built for organization with a laptop sleeve and padded straps. Maison de Sabré Apple AirTag Charm, $60 (originally $75) Zella Two-pocket Belt Bag, $20 (originally $29) Baboon to the Moon Rectangle Sacoche, $19 (originally $49) Béis Commuter Duffel Bag, $115 (originally $158) Maison de Sabré Large Leather Sling Bag, $247 (originally $309) Zella Everyday Active Backpack, $45 (originally $65) Baggallini Coastal Flip-lock Day Pack, $84 (originally $125) Maison de Sabré Leather Duffel Bag, $421 (originally $629) Herschel Supply Co. Novel Duffel Bag, $73 (originally $110) Maison de Sabré Leather Messenger Bag, $213 (originally $319) AllSaints Lucille Crossbody Bag, $166 (originally $249) Tumi Alpha Brave Nellis Backpack, $299 (originally $425) Longchamp Le Pliage Cosmetics Case, $90 (originally $120) Love a great deal? Sign up for our T+L Recommends newsletter and we'll send you our favorite travel products each week.

Italy's Secret Southern Wine Region Ready To Steal The Spotlight
Italy's Secret Southern Wine Region Ready To Steal The Spotlight

Forbes

timean hour ago

  • Forbes

Italy's Secret Southern Wine Region Ready To Steal The Spotlight

TNow, the coastal town of Cirò Marina and its hilltop, historic counterpart Cirò Superiore, are moving to shine the spotlight on both the area's prestigious wine culture and its archaeological and natural attractions. Merano WineFestival Calabria Under a canopy of bamboo canes, vintner Paolo Ippolito pours glasses of his Mare Chiaro DOC and Pecorello IGT wines to taste along with local cheese and fennel flavored salami. A fresh breeze arrives from the nearby Ionian Sea. 'From now on, for four months, the weather will remain like this,' he says. This is the secret to the wine of Cirò, a historic area of vineyards in the region of Calabria, Italy's deep south. It is also a draw for the predominantly Italian tourism that arrives here for summer holidays by the sea. Now, the coastal town of Cirò Marina and its hilltop, historic counterpart Cirò Superiore, are moving to shine the spotlight on both the area's prestigious wine culture and its archaeological and natural attractions. The hilltop village of Cirò Superiore. Merano WineFestival Calabria This year, the town hosted the first edition of the Calabria version of Merano WineFestival, an event founded by Helmuth Köcher that has been held in the northern Italian town of Merano since 1992. The Calabrian sister festival hopes to become an annual fixture, highlighting both the push within the wine sector to valorize local products and the territory in general to bring international visitors to the area. With a clear, calm sea and waterside restaurants, Cirò Marina satisfies beachgoers while Cirò Superiore is an old-world, lively town crowned by a castle and encircled by picturesque wineries. Here's how to spend a weekend in Italy's up-and-coming wine tourism destination. Until roughly 20 years ago, Calabrian wine received little recognition from other Italian regions, and even less internationally. But recently, forward-thinking generations of vintners have pushed to put the region's wine on the map by highlighting in particular its idiosyncrasies. When the ancient Greeks arrived at this point of the Italian peninsula, they brought with them grape varieties and christened the area Enotria, meaning land of wine. Still today, Calabria's wine production is based on hyperlocal, ancient varieties, making it completely unique. The characteristics of the land are also hugely influential, from the marine terraces that give wines an intense minerality to the steep hillside buffeted by breezes that ensure freshness and acidity. Winery hopping from the sea to the hills These landscapes also mean a weekend wending your way between wineries is a great pleasure. Start your day with a dip in the clear, cobalt Ionian Sea at Punta Alice. There's a vast pebbled beach and clubs that rent sun loungers. If you want to spend an extended time at the sea, head to Aquarama in Cirò Marina and grab a table for lunch, during which waiters bring platters of crunchy fried calamari rings, delicate squid salad and zingy pickled anchovies. That's followed by a seafood soup with a rich tomato sauce and little strands of spaghetti. Head to the beach clubs at Punta Alice for tasty seafood. Rebecca Ann Hughes From there, head inland along untrafficked roads lined with blooming oleander, passing vineyards, olive groves and gorse-covered hillsides. Head to the Librandi winery, where you can learn about their scientific research into the ancient grape varieties of the region, 200 of which grow in a special spiral-shaped vineyard. You can then take a tour of the winery, followed by a tasting of their wines. Alongside excellent Cirò DOC and Melissa DOC whites, Librandi produces a delightfully fresh Rosaneti Brut Rosé using the Charmant method. Visit the ancient village of Cirò Superiore The opening night of the Calabrian Merano WineFestival was held in the hillside village of Cirò Superiore, the ribbon strung across the narrow arched entrance gate. The pocket-sized piazzas were filled with wine stands and a stage with a DJ. Find history and culture in Cirò Superiore. Rebecca Ann Hughes Visitors can seek out wine history at the idiosyncratic museum in the town. It combines three exhibitions: rooms showcasing traditional home interiors and agriculture and winemaking tools; an exhibit dedicated to the Cirò-born inventor of the Gregorian calendar Aloysius Lilius; and a wine museum. Don't miss a dinner at Borgo Antico restaurant, where you sit on a terrace overlooking the hillside strung with fairy lights. You can sample flavor-packed local dishes like sardelle—sardines with red pepper paste—and oil-drenched sweet green peppers. Sleep in a historic borgo transformed into a scattered hotel To end the day in style, head to Borgo Saverona for the evening. Originally a village, it has been transformed into an events space and scattered hotel where Puglia-esque creamy stone buildings are arranged around a square. The 16 rooms and three suites are elegant and light-filled, with typically terracotta flooring and cream wood furnishings. There is a swimming pool, and the whole property is encircled by 20 hectares of vineyards and ancient olive trees. How to get to Cirò The nearest airports to Cirò are Crotone and Lamezia Terme. International flights from destinations in Europe and further afield fly here. If you are coming to Cirò from another Italian destination, you can also take the train. As Italian booking sites can be difficult to navigate if you don't know the language, try using Omio instead. The multi-modal travel booking platform combines thousands of travel partners and four modes of transportation: trains, buses, ferries, and planes With the Omio app, travellers have all their tickets in one place. Other benefits include 24/7 customer support, Seat Maps and live updates.

How My Family Fell in Love With Ireland's Grand Hotels, Falconry, and the World's Best Bread and Butter
How My Family Fell in Love With Ireland's Grand Hotels, Falconry, and the World's Best Bread and Butter

Travel + Leisure

timean hour ago

  • Travel + Leisure

How My Family Fell in Love With Ireland's Grand Hotels, Falconry, and the World's Best Bread and Butter

The older I get, the less shame I have. I'll think nothing of, say, falling asleep sitting upright on a bench at Dublin's National Botanic Garden, the day after an overnight flight from New York. (Jet lag, my old enemy, slayer of vacations.) 'Is it okay if we leave you here to nap for a while?' my husband, Caleb, asked. He and his mom, Suzanne, a lifelong gardener, had some herbaceous borders they wanted to investigate. Caleb and I are in our mid 50s; Suzanne is 79. She had flown to Dublin nonstop from Texas, but showed no signs of flagging. For our first family vacation in years, Caleb and I wanted to take Suzanne to Ireland, a country we had visited before and loved. I put myself in charge of booking our accommodations, and picked splurgy hotels. I told myself that Suzanne, being older, would be gratified by the comforts of these high-end properties. But of course, when I fantasized about the trip, the person I imagined enjoying those thick mattresses, rainfall showerheads, and no-brakes breakfast buffets was me. From left: The entry hall of Dublin's Merrion hotel; the hotel's garden. After arriving in Dublin, we checked in to the Merrion , which occupies four 18th-century town houses in the city center. ('One of the greats,' a travel-writing friend commented when I posted a photo of the hotel on Instagram.) Guest relations executive Alexandra Gingell, whom Suzanne immediately befriended, gave us a tour. I was especially eager to see the Merrion's famous art collection, a near-comprehensive survey of Irish painters. (The hotel even has an afternoon tea with pastries inspired by the works on the walls.) Gingell pointed out highlights, including the visionary landscapes of Jack B. Yeats, the poet's younger brother, and the semiabstract still lifes of William Scott, a favorite of mine. Over the next two days, Gingell would stop to chat with us whenever we passed through the lobby, making sure we had everything we needed and giving us recommendations; by the time we checked out, she and Suzanne were exchanging hugs. Dublin is an inherently cozy city. Its Georgian streets look like they've stepped out of a Christmas movie, and the Merrion is similarly cosseting. But the hotel never feels stuffy or claustrophobic, thanks to a springlike palette and a garden courtyard that fills the guest rooms and public spaces with light. On our first night, the three of us met a Dubliner friend for dinner in the Garden Room , which overlooks the courtyard and its statue of James Joyce. The low ceilings, deep banquettes, and intimate acoustics made conversation easy for Suzanne, who has hearing loss. The gallery hall at Dromoland Castle. 'I love being taken care of,' she told Timothy, our waiter, as he offered her an extra cushion for her back. 'That's what I'm here for,' he replied. After two nights in Dublin, we rented a car and drove southwest, to County Kerry. This was the rural Ireland I had longed to return to: green (it's a cliché to call Ireland green, but is there a word more accurate?), tranquil, seemingly populated only by sheep, who'll move out of the road at their own pace, thank you very much. We pulled up to our hotel, just outside the town of Kenmare, at dusk. With its illuminated windows and pathways, Sheen Falls Lodge beckoned like a fairy-tale village. Caleb and I had a suite with French doors that opened onto a view of the namesake falls, where the river Sheen tumbles down layers of rock into Kenmare Bay. I stretched out on the sofa to read in front of the fireplace and within minutes had drifted off to the murmur of the water. The author, right, with his husband and mother-in-law. Sheen Falls Lodge is only a few miles outside the Ring of Kerry, the 111-mile loop that traces the coastline of the relaveragh Peninsula. The Ring is so spectacularly scenic that in summer the road is backed up with tour buses. It was now September, and we were pleased to be missing the crowds. Still, we inched along. It took us most of a day to make it only a quarter of the way around. Was this the best vantage from which to see the lorn, majestic island Skellig Michael (otherwise known as the home of middle-aged Luke Skywalker in Star Wars: The Last Jedi )? No, wait: the view was even better a few hundred feet down the road. Happily, there were plenty of places to eat and take bathroom breaks along the way—the Lobster Bar & Restaurant in Waterville, we discovered, serves a terrific seafood pie. But by late afternoon, it became apparent to me that it's possible to max out on beauty. On Valentia Island, I let Caleb and Suzanne take in what must have been our 19th cliffside stop while I waited in the car. When we got back to Sheen Falls, not a little exhausted, the attentive Brian Richards, a member of the concierge team, thankfully offered to drive us into Kenmare for dinner so we could avoid any parking hassles. It was a relief, the next day, when the three of us agreed not to do any sightseeing whatsoever, and to instead meld into our Sheen Falls surroundings and each pick an activity available on the property. Caleb and I spent the morning, a misty one, with resident falconer Liam Kerry, who introduced us to Archie, an African spotted eagle-owl, and Erin, a Harris's hawk. (No, I'm not really flinching in the photos of Erin landing on my glove, ready to rip into a piece of raw chicken, her enormous, muscular wings flapping a little too close for comfort. It just looks like I am.) Later, as Caleb did some bird-watching on the grounds, Suzanne hiked the property's winding trails, and I briefly splashed around the indoor pool before sinking into the Jacuzzi. We ended our trip at Dromoland Castle , in County Clare, not far from Shannon Airport. As Jane O'Brien, the hotel historian, told us on a tour of the property, the land on which the castle stands belonged to the O'Brien family, which traces its lineage back to Brian Boru, Ireland's high king in the early 11th century. A first castle stood on the site as early as 1014; the one we were staying in dates from the early 1700s. Caleb and I stayed in a two-story suite, where all the romance and grandeur of medieval life was intact: it occupied a turret, with a living room below and a bedroom above. There were also castle-y quirks, like the fact that the hallways twisted and turned so much I kept getting lost. Since I value my sleep, I avoided Googling the words 'Dromoland Castle ghosts.' I didn't want to know. Horseback riding at Sheen Falls. O'Brien showed us the property's walled Renaissance garden, ablaze with deep red and burnished yellow blooms well into fall. Even I, botanical-garden napper, was impressed. 'What do you think of Dromoland?' I asked Suzanne. 'It's a happy fantasy,' she said. As our tour ended, she ducked into the spa for a facial and emerged glowing. That night we put on our least rumpled clothes for a chandelier-lit meal at the hotel's restaurant Earl of Thomond. The food was inventive, and a little witty. My incredibly tender salmon came with a peeled zucchini; when I cut into it, I found that it had been hollowed out and filled with yet more salmon. (I confess that the food that eclipsed all others on this trip, in this and all the other restaurants we visited, was Irish bread and butter. Caleb and I are now Kerrygold converts.) On our last day we headed an hour north, to a rocky region called the Burren, where limestone emerges from the ground in wavelike formations. At the Burren Perfumery, a homey complex of cottages seemingly in the middle of nowhere, we stocked up on souvenirs—naturally scented soaps and lotions with names like Atlantic Coast and Lost Garden—then decamped for lunch in its sunny tearooms. The menu is built around smoked mackerel, which is caught by a local fisherman and, I quickly discovered, puts all other smoked fish to shame. Soon our table overflowed with plates: more sweet brown soda bread and Irish butter, Irish cheeses, pickles, rhubarb salad. The simplest meal of our trip turned out to be the best. Back at Dromoland Castle that night, we tried to decide which of our three hotels had been our favorite. It was a three-way tie: each had charmed us in its own way. Nine months later, Caleb was visiting Suzanne at her home in Fort Worth. She was eager to show him some new potted plants on her back patio. 'Those are the ones we saw in Dublin,' she said, pointing to three varieties of coleus. She had been inspired at the botanical garden—while I was sleeping. A version of this story first appeared in the August 2025 issue of Travel + Leisure under the headline 'The Full Irish .'

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