A Perfect Saratoga Weekend Starts At SPAC But Doesn't End There
It was my first time seeing a show at SPAC, the iconic Saratoga Performing Arts Center tucked inside the heart of the 2,400-acre Saratoga Spa State Park. I'd heard whispers from friends that it's the best venue in the Northeast, the ideal place to catch a summer show. But nothing prepared me for the feeling of actually being there - the towering pines overhead, mineral springs burbling nearby and the sense that art and nature are all in it together up here.
The lawn scene at Saratoga Performing Arts Center Saratoga Performing Arts Center
You don't just arrive at SPAC, you journey through it. There's something sacred about walking through the tree-lined paths to the venue, right as the pre-show jitters take hold. It's warm and welcoming, with families dancing on blankets in the back, and legions of fans dancing shoulder-to-shoulder in the pavilion up front. It's a venue for music lovers, nature lovers and caters to all types of music - from bands like Phish and Dave Matthews, to Yo-Yo Ma, Renée Fleming and Joshua Bell.
'I always tell people to walk the park before the show,' SPAC chief executive officer Elizabeth Sobol told me in the days leading up to the weekend. 'It's a cathedral of trees—quiet, restorative and totally transportive.' Sobol fell for the town much the way we all do. The tenured music industry executive didn't set foot in Saratoga until she was offered the top job at the venue nearly a decade ago. 'I came up for the interview and thought, wait, how did I not know about this place,' Sobol said.
It's a fair question. Saratoga is the kind of destination that flies under the radar. It doesn't carry the pomp of nearby Lake George, nor have the influx of day-trippers that descend on closer-to-the-city towns like Beacon or Hyde Park. It's further from the city, yet it offers everything you'd want in a weekend or full-time retreat: extraordinary cultural offerings, a walkable downtown with independent shops and cafes, one of the country's oldest horse racing tracks and a restaurant scene that rivals any urban hub.
We stayed downtown at the Hilton, but I found myself eyeing the porch of the Saratoga Arms across the street—a charming, family-run inn that dates back to the 1870s. It's that kind of place that's full of Victorian architecture, wraparound porches and stories traded with strangers on the sidewalk outside.
By day, we wandered Broadway and ducked into hat shops, women's clothing boutiques filled with horse-race couture and independent bookstores. On the Saturday between shows, we made our way to the Saratoga Race Course - a bucket-list destination for my husband, and the only way I could get him to see two nights of Phish.
Inside the Saratoga Race Course The Saratoga Race Course
The track is as storied as it is stunning. The energy was electric, with a crowd that felt equal parts Saratoga society and upstate casual. Men were decked in wide-brimmed hats and suits, while the women's fashion exploded with fascinators and polka-dotted dresses. We settled into our seat as bets were being placed, jockeys went parading by and families sat enjoying their Saturday.
We watched the races, sipped cold drinks and marveled at the pageantry of it all. While I'd never label myself a racing enthusiast, there was something undeniably nostalgic about it. For a few hours, the world slowed down as we lingered about people-watching, soaking up this historic pastime.
Only in a place like Saratoga could you pair a Phish concert with a day at the races and have it all make sense. I left already planning my return, only next time with my kids in tow. Because once you've traveled to Saratoga, it's impossible not to want more.
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