The Best Spicule Skin Care Products Are Like Microneedling in a Bottle
Originating in Korea, 'topical spicule products contain microscopic needle-like structures that gently penetrate the upper layers of the skin to create a micro-stimulating effect,' explains dermatologist Marisa Garshick, MD, FAAD. Fellow dermatologist Nicole Salame, MD, FAAD notes that these needle-like structures can be derived from 'marine sponges, like Haliclona spp, which contain both calcium and silica' or synthesized from bioactive ingredients. When applied to the skin, they can encourage natural exfoliation, cell turnover, and better absorption of active ingredients, helping to do everything from smooth fine lines to decrease hyperpigmentation.
Spicule-infused formulas are relatively painless to apply, Garshick mentions that you can expect 'a noticeable tingling or prickling sensation that can last several hours.' As such, it's best to apply them at night. She also suggests avoiding strong actives like AHAs, BHAs, vitamin C, or retinol immediately after, as these can cause irritation while the skin is more sensitive. Instead, she recommends following up with gentle moisturizers and hydrating serums that can support skin recovery, as well as sunscreen in the morning. 'As with any exfoliating or skin-renewing product, your skin will be more sensitive to UV exposure.'
Ahead, I tapped both experts and pored over customer reviews to find the best spicules skin care products currently on the market. Scroll down to shop them, plus uncover more expert-backed tips on how to incorporate spicules into your routine.
VT Cosmetics is arguably responsible for putting spicules skin care on the map. Its popular Reedle Shot Essence 1000 is the most potent strength offered, though if you wish to ease your way into the trend, the formula comes in a few lower dosages. Also within the serum is Centella Asiatica, an Eastern herb traditionally used for healing wounds, eczema, and psoriasis. Per reviewers, the creamy formula is lightweight and quickly absorbs into the skin.
An Amazon reviewer says: 'This is very active but really helped my redness.'
If you can handle more potent treatments and/or are already comfortable with microneedling, this high-intensity spicule serum is the way to go. It contains a whopping 30,000 spicules that work to smooth out rough textures and minimize the appearance of pores. Additionally, it contains niacinamide and collagen to help plump and add a glow. According to reviewers, it quickly dissolves into the skin and dries down slightly tacky—though it'll make your complexion feel facial-soft if you follow it up with an enriching moisturizer.
An Amazon reviewer says: 'I used this product and within seconds I could see my face tighten before my eyes! It was incredible, within three days I looked back to my teenage self! I love the little tingle it gives you—it's almost addictive.'
This Dr. Garshick-approved sheet mask uses spicules to enhance the results of its other powerhouse ingredients, including French collagen, elastin, nourishing hyaluronic acid, and four types of complex peptides. 'It delivers visible plumping and firming after just one use,' she says. What's more, it promises to lift and tone for a more contoured look. To offset the slightly tingling sensation, it also creates an instant cooling effect on the skin.
This option from Aprilskin was specifically formulated for sensitive skin types, featuring a blend of tranexamic acid and niacinamide to reduce redness and flare-ups. Due to its non-irritating formula, it's also suitable for daily use.
An Amazon reviewer says: 'I believe I see my redness fading already. The tingle for me was so mild and only lasted about 30 seconds, and I have fairly sensitive skin.'
For a deep clean, look no further than this spicule-infused mask from Pestlo. 'As a form of mechanical exfoliant, it can aid in smoothing texture and improving skin appearance,' says Dr. Salame. On top of working to clear out pores, it uses green tea extracts to reduce irritation, mugwort to promote skin healing, and pine bark extract to rebuild the skin barrier.
An Amazon reviewer says: 'Very satisfying! My skin is glowing flawlessly, my pores are visibly smaller, and my skin is a lot smoother.'
You may know PDRN by its street name: salmon sperm. Though it can sound off-putting, the salmon sperm-derived ingredient has been shown to noticeably boost hydration, collagen production, and reduce inflammation. This formula from viral brand Medicube combines salmon sperm with spicules to optimize these benefits. Backed by over 200 five-star reviews, it's praised by shoppers for helping to instantly brighten and smooth fine lines. If you've been eager to achieve glass skin, start with this.
An Amazon reviewer says: 'My new favorite product. I could see the difference in my skin the next day. My complexion looked smoother, softer, and healthier. I see more results with this product at under $30 than I do with products that cost twice as much.'
I know what you're thinking: If spicule skin care exists, do I still need to microneedle? While spicules offer a gentler approach that doesn't puncture the skin, Dr. Salame explains that the depth of penetration with spicules is roughly 0.2 to 0.5 mm, whereas microneedling ranges anywhere between 0.5 to 2.5 mm. If your skin can handle it and you want faster results, in-office microneedling may be your preferred option. 'Microneedling involves a controlled environment with professional tools and treatments,' says Dr. Garshick, adding that it's best to avoid at-home tools like dermarollers to avoid potentially damaging your skin.
Every spicule product is different, so it's important to follow the instructions to a tee. As a general rule of thumb, Dr. Garshick advises applying on 'clean, dry skin, usually in the evening when your skin can rest and regenerate overnight.' She also recommends following up with soothing, hydrating formulas, due to the micro-channels spicules create on the skin.
Most spicule products are meant to be used once or twice a week to allow your skin to fully recover between applications, says Dr. Garshick. You'll also want to avoid aggressively massaging spicules into your complexion, warns Dr. Salame, as this may lead to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and scarring.
Dr. Garshick says spicule products can be beneficial for many skin types but may not be suitable for those with highly sensitive skin, as 'the stimulating sensation could trigger more irritation.' Dr. Salame adds that patients with acne or risk of hyperpigmentation should also proceed with caution.
As a leading publisher of fashion, lifestyle, and beauty content, ELLE.com is committed to highlighting the best products in various categories by personally testing the latest and most innovative products, interviewing countless experts, and vetting customer-loved items. For this piece, beauty writer Bianca Kratky spoke with two dermatologists about the benefits of spicule skin care and how to incorporate it into your routine.
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