Discover the hip Singapore neighbourhood where ancient history comes to life

National Geographic

10-06-2025

The best way to understand Singapore's cosmopolitan evolution is to visit the Telok Ayer neighbourhood, where Chinese and South Indian immigrants first gathered after landing on its shores in the early 19th century. Once a natural bay — Telok Ayer means 'bay water' in Malay — the area expanded as part of a land reclamation effort that started in the 1880s. Over several decades, Telok Ayer was transformed into a sub-district of Chinatown in the Central Area of Singapore. Just south of the Singapore River, Chinese indentured labourers and merchants lived alongside Indian moneychangers and traders in colourful shophouses, and worshipped side-by-side at ornate Buddhist temples and geometric mosques and shrines. Today, the Telok Ayer district is a testament to both the island's storied history and its modern creative scene. From Michelin-rated restaurants and creative bars to traditional hawker centres and colonial-era architecture, Telok Ayer and the adjacent Chinatown offer an array of experiences that are as diverse as the area's population. Here's how to enjoy a day in the district.
Start by diving into the heritage of the region's Cantonese and Hakka immigrants at the Fuk Tak Chi Museum, located within the AMOY Hotel by Far East Hospitality. Initially built in 1824 for a Taoist deity named Tua Pek Kong, the Fuk Tak Chi Temple was restored in 1998 as a museum, which now displays artefacts and dioramas depicting scenes of Singaporean life from the 19th and early 20th centuries. While exploring the area, pick up a freshly baked muffin and coffee at the quaint Plain Vanilla Telok Ayer bakery before heading to Telok Ayer Green, a small garden space offering respite from the busy street. Find a bench and relax under the shady foliage, or take a stroll and read from plaques detailing the rich tapestry of the neighbourhood. In Singapore's Chinatown neighbourhood, historic temples and hawker centres sit alongside trendy shops, cafes and bars. Photograph by Prime Images, Getty Images
The area around the park is flanked by two of Singapore's national monuments: Nagore Dargah Indian Muslim Heritage Centre and Yu Huang Gong. The former was previously the Nagore Dargah, a dusty rose–hued limestone shrine honouring the Tamil Sufi preacher-saint Shahul Hamid. The building, with its minarets and crescent-and-star motifs, has since been converted into a heritage centre that tells the story of the Indian-Muslim diaspora in Singapore. Meanwhile, Yu Huang Gong is a Taoist temple worshipping the Heavenly Jade Emperor; look out for the ornate dragons adorning its roof.
Next to Yu Huang Gong is another national monument worth admiring: Thian Hock Keng Temple, the country's oldest Hokkien temple, featuring detailed wood and stone carvings. This is where visitors prayed to Mazu, the Goddess of the Seas. Along the same street, the light-cream Al-Abrar Mosque, one of the city's oldest mosques, blends in seamlessly with its neighbouring row of shophouses. (With the exception of Nagore Dargah, the mosques and temples are active places of worship, so visitors are encouraged to be mindful and dress modestly.)
After a morning of nourishing the spirit, spend the afternoon satisfying the stomach at Amoy Street Food Centre. At this popular two-storey, open-air food court, diners can choose from more than 130 food stalls selling everything from upscale ramen to charcoal-grilled toast with a sweet coconut-pandan jam. Try the Michelin Bib Gourmand-recommended J2 Famous Crispy Curry Puff, a flaky pastry with four flavours of savoury filling to choose from; or Ah Ter Teochew Fish Ball Noodles, which is known for its robust pork bone broth, al dente egg noodles and chewy fish balls. Craving even more variety? Less than a quarter of a mile away is the world-renowned Maxwell Food Centre, made famous by Anthony Bourdain. While there are more than 100 options to choose from here, most people who visit Maxwell will make a beeline for Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice — the gently poached chicken with ginger- and stock-infused rice is the star dish. The colourful Buddha Tooth Relic Temple and Museum features architecture from China's Tang Dynasty and is home to a collection of Buddhist relics. Photograph by PT STOCK, Getty Images
To walk off the meal, take a stroll through Ann Siang Hill Park, a green oasis tucked behind a row of pre-colonial shophouses. Visitors can see the last remaining well in Chinatown, along with spice trees like nutmeg and cinnamon, which first drew Europeans to Southeast Asia centuries ago. Continue on to Amoy Street to reach the back wall of Thian Hock Keng Temple, where art aficionados can admire a 130ft-long mural that features vignettes of immigrant life in Singapore — it shows everything from water buffalos pulling carts to street vendors hawking food from baskets. At the nearby Chinatown Street Market, travellers can see more murals by the same local artist, Yip Yew Chong, and shop for budget-friendly souvenirs and snacks. Modern skyscrapers and stylish hotels, including The Clan Hotel Singapore, tower above the historic streets of Chinatown. Photograph by The Clan Hotel Singapore
While Telok Ayer is relatively relaxed in the daytime, the streets — especially Club Street and Ann Siang Hill — come alive after dark. The after-work crowd congregates at lively spots like the halal Brazilian steakhouse Picanhas' or one of the many authentic French restaurants in the precinct, such as Merci Marcel, and drink the night away at creative cocktail bars like Brooklyn Bar. For those looking to enjoy dinner with a view, Qīn Restaurant & Bar is a chic restaurant within The Clan Hotel Singapore on Cross Street. Take in views of the glittering cityscape while savouring the artful East-meets-West menu. The hotel also offers guests complimentary tours of the local area's historic and cultural sites, making it an ideal base for those eager to explore Chinatown. There are direct flights available from London to Singapore Changi Airport. Taxis are readily available from the airport and take around 30 minutes to reach Chinatown. Buses and the Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) system are also practical and inexpensive ways to travel around Singapore. The Clan Hotel Singapore by Far East Hospitality enjoys direct access to the Telok Ayer MRT station (Exit D). The hotel's The Clan Uncovers: The Art of Balance package, available to book until 27 December 2025, offers guests a transformative stay featuring a 45-minute yin yoga session, a mindful tea experience paired with guided meditation and a curated dinner at Qīn Restaurant & Bar. For more information, visit theclanhotel.com.sg This paid content article was created for The Clan Hotel Singapore. It does not necessarily reflect the views of National Geographic, National Geographic Traveller (UK) or their editorial staffs.
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