The Best Dishes Eater Editors Ate This Week: July 21
Lamprais from Baja Subs in Northridge
Lamprais from Baja Subs in Northridge. Wonho Frank Lee
I finally went to Sri Lankan restaurant Baja Subs after Eater LA contributor Fiona Chandra helped put a spotlight on it back in 2020, after which it's received accolades from numerous other publications. On a sleepy afternoon last week, I stopped in for the lamprais (also spelled lumprais or lump rice), a baked packet of short-grain rice, sambal, meat curry, eggplant curry, a boiled egg, and frikadeller, a fried ball of minced meat. The entire package is fragrant with banana leaves, balanced with spice (though there's certainly a good amount of heat throughout the dish). The name, taken from the Dutch word lomprijst, and that hefty meatball, are vestiges of colonization, but really the dish doesn't need that moniker or the meatball. Lamprais is a great first-time dish when eating solo, but on weekends, a wider array of curries and other flavors go on full display in a reasonably priced buffet. Which means I'll have to make the trek to the deep San Fernando Valley on a Friday or Saturday, certainly not an onerous task knowing that this calvacade of deep, spicy, comforting flavors awaits. 8801 Reseda Boulevard, Northridge, CA, 91324. — Matthew Kang, lead editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest
Goldong naengmyeon from Seogwan by Yellow Cow BBQ in Koreatown
Goldong naengmyeon at Seogwan by Yellow Cow BBQ in Koreatown. Matthew Kang
Every month, a new Korean barbecue spot opens in Koreatown, but it's not often that a specialist in naengmyeon arrives here, especially a heralded one from Seoul. Seogwan Myeokok, a well-regarded Pyongyang naengmyeon shop in Seoul, quietly expanded to Southern California with a partnership with Monica Kim, the chef and proprietor of Yellow Cow Barbecue in Gardena. Together, they took over the former Magal BBQ on Eighth Street with a sleek but smoke-filled dining room featuring Seogwan's elegant, fully organic U.S. buckwheat noodles served in the ethereal and subtle Pyongyang broth. Though my ancestors hail from the now North Korean capitol, I'm not sure I'll ever truly understand the subtlety of its famous cold noodle soup. I did, however, love the goldong naengmyeon, a drier set of tossed buckwheat noodles wrapped in a tight bun, topped with thin beef slices and surrounded by earthy banchan like seasoned mushrooms, sliced mu radish, and cucumbers. Texture and nuttiness come from toasted perilla leaves and ground sesame seeds. Mix it all together and enjoy for a satisfying precursor to the top-notch tabletop barbecue, or just have it as a light lunch. 3460 W. Eighth Street, Los Angeles, CA 90005. — Matthew Kang, lead editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest
Tuna dan dan noodles from Jon Yao served at Callie in San Diego
Tuna dan dan noodles from Jon Yao served at Callie in San Diego. Matthew Kang
Since its opening nearly a decade ago, Kato has always made a strong impression with familiar, simple dishes that lean on Taiwanese cuisine. Chef Jon Yao has garnered so much praise in the past few years, including at the top of the Los Angeles Times 101 Best Restaurants, a Michelin star, and most recently as the Best Chef: California by the James Beard Award Foundation. Yet, Yao continues to push boundaries, and one wonders what he could accomplish with a more casual restaurant that served something like this tuna dan dan noodles. Using meaty tuna from a six-foot-long line-caught fish just off of San Diego and serving them at a collab dinner with Callie chef Travis Skiward at his Petco Park-adjacent restaurant, these noodles were a revelation. Dense umami flavors from doubanjiang and preserved bean brought the trademark dan dan flavor without making it too heavy on the nuttiness (which came from Taiwanese sesame paste). Elegant pasta strands lapped up the chunky sauce, with the tuna almost falling into the background to the spices, rather than asserting itself. Tangled shreds of allium and cilantro brought freshness and crunch. It's a brilliant dish that I would gladly pay $30 for at Kato's bar (here's to hoping...) or a daytime menu if that ever materializes. 1195 Island Avenue, San Diego, CA 92101. — Matthew Kang, lead editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest
Caprese melt from Milestone Tavern in San Luis Obispo
Caprese melt from Milestone Tavern in San Luis Obispo. Rebecca Roland
Road trip eating is a unique challenge in itself. You want a meal that's filling enough to last for a few hours, but not so filling that driving becomes unpleasant. And a restaurant nice enough to take a break for a few minutes, without it turning into a two-hour affair and derailing any sense of urgency. On a recent trip back home from the Bay, I found myself searching for a dinner break around San Luis Obispo and stopped at Milestone Tavern, just down the street from Cal Poly. The expansive restaurant feels very brewpub-y, with plenty of beer taps and a menu of burgers, sandwiches, street tacos, and artichoke dip. I ordered a caprese melt, which was essentially a caprese sandwich on toasted sourdough. While it wasn't anything groundbreaking, the tomato was ripe, and the cheese sliced just thick enough. The balsamic was a touch sweet for my taste, but the drizzle wasn't too heavy, so I had no real complaints. A side of thick-cut fries and crispy Brussels sprouts made it an easy dinner that I'm sure I'll return to next time I'm passing through town. 972 Foothill Boulevard, San Luis Obispo, CA 93405. — Rebecca Roland, editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest
So Mush Love from Wallflour Pizza in Eagle Rock
So Mush Love from Wallflour Pizza in Eagle Rock. Mona Holmes
Good pizza resides in every corner of Los Angeles. That's not hyperbole; that's simply the application of tested technique surrounding dough, toppings, and different styles in a region known for being loyal to trying something new and delicious. One of the newest entrants to the scene is Wallflour Pizza, the former pop-up turned permanent restaurant by Carolina Pedroza-Conaway and Brandon Conaway that has proven to be one of 2025's standouts with a crust that rivals any competitor in the Southland. The duo took over the former spacious Azlan space on Colorado, near Eagle Rock Boulevard, and transformed it into a colorful and cozy room where diners can enjoy expertly leavened sourdough pizza. Although this is truly some of my favorite crust, the former Quarantine Pizza Co. made a name for itself by experimenting with toppings. Definitely share the al pastor pie, but the mushroom-topped So Mush Love is where it's at for me. The owners procured the primary ingredient from local vendor Long Beach Mushrooms, which is spread across the pie alongside Grana Padano cheese, roasted garlic cream, and fresh arugula on top. As always, this is the type of crust that's best enjoyed fresh out of the oven. Wallflour is not on any third-party delivery apps, but takeout is available by placing an order for pickup online. 2128 Colorado Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA, 90041. — Mona Holmes, editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest
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Shete told the Star while Curryish has hosted actors and comedians in the past, Eisenberg is the most famous celebrity to dine at his restaurant. He said the actor's party ordered samosa, asparagus salad, coconut stuffed branzino, green tomato butter chicken, stuffed paneer with roasted pepper korma and more. A post shared by Zezafoun Syrian Cuisine (@zezafounsyriancuisine) Elyanna — the Palestinian-Chilean pop singer who opened for Coldplay during their stint at Rogers Stadium — brought her band and a group of friends to Zezafoun Syrian Cuisine, a cosy, family-run restaurant in Davisville Village. 'Your sweet spirit lit up the place, and we truly loved having you,' the restaurant posted on Instagram. A post shared by Jeff Regular (@paitoronto) This spring, legendary hip hop drummer, producer and DJ Questlove dropped by Kiin , a high-end Thai restaurant in the entertainment district, after his band The Roots played at Rebel. According to Jeff Regular, who owns Kiin alongside his wife, Nuit Regular , told the Star that Questlove ordered the restaurant's latest tasting menu, and that he liked the wagyu and lamb courses in particular. 'That was huge,' Regular said. 'Sadly, I was in Japan at the time, but I was freaking out.' A post shared by Harlem Restaurant (@harlemrestaurant) Known for its Afro-Caribbean and soul food — it helped popularize fried chicken and waffles in Toronto, Star food reporter Karon Liu recently noted — and for hosting live music, Harlem Restaurant on Queen West re-opened its doors this spring after a closure that lasted nearly six years. Within days of reopening in May, the restaurant hosted a birthday party for Toronto hip hop mogul Kardinall Offishall, which was attended by American stand-up comic and actor Dave Chappelle. A post shared by Jeff Regular (@paitoronto) Forget potatoes , the Hobbits are into Thai food, now! Dom Monaghan (the actor who plays Merry Brandybuck in the 'Lord of the Rings' trilogy) has long declared PAI — a northern Thai food fixture with locations in downtown and uptown — as his favourite restaurant in the city. So when his buddy Elijah Wood (the actor who plays Frodo Baggins) was in town in May, he urged him to check it out. Woods was 'very gracious,' said owner Jeff Regular. The actor ordered extensively off the menu, but his favourite dish was miang kung : a platter of fresh ingredients (shrimp, ginger, shallots, roasted coconut, etc.) that customers wrap in fresh betel leaf. A post shared by @pearlyorkville Iconic businesswoman and lifestyle personality Martha Stewart was in town in February to film a television series, when she dropped by Pearl, an authentic Chinese restaurant in Yorkville that serves traditional Cantonese food and dim sum. According to BlogTO , Stewart ordered Peking duck, stir-fried long beans with black bean sauce, pan-fried hockey pucks, spinach and shrimp dumplings, and soup dumplings. A post shared by José Andrés (@chefjoseandres) Spanish-American celebrity chef and restaurateur José Andrés was also in town in February to shoot a television series, and among the spots he dined was Fisherman Lobster Club, the Scarborough seafood restaurant known for its gigantic platters of lobster and crab. The Jonas Brothers pose for a picture with Adrak Yorkville co-founder Ambica Jain. Kevin, Joe and Nick Jonas made an unexpected visit to Adrak — a Michelin-recommended restaurant in Yorkville serving modern Indian cuisine — last January. 'All of the brothers said the food was amazing and that they really liked the Chai biscuit dessert a lot,' a representative for the restaurant told the Star. 'They were extremely friendly, kind and appreciative. No star-power attitude, and very humble.' 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