The Best Dishes Eater Editors Ate This Week: July 21
Lamprais from Baja Subs in Northridge
Lamprais from Baja Subs in Northridge. Wonho Frank Lee
I finally went to Sri Lankan restaurant Baja Subs after Eater LA contributor Fiona Chandra helped put a spotlight on it back in 2020, after which it's received accolades from numerous other publications. On a sleepy afternoon last week, I stopped in for the lamprais (also spelled lumprais or lump rice), a baked packet of short-grain rice, sambal, meat curry, eggplant curry, a boiled egg, and frikadeller, a fried ball of minced meat. The entire package is fragrant with banana leaves, balanced with spice (though there's certainly a good amount of heat throughout the dish). The name, taken from the Dutch word lomprijst, and that hefty meatball, are vestiges of colonization, but really the dish doesn't need that moniker or the meatball. Lamprais is a great first-time dish when eating solo, but on weekends, a wider array of curries and other flavors go on full display in a reasonably priced buffet. Which means I'll have to make the trek to the deep San Fernando Valley on a Friday or Saturday, certainly not an onerous task knowing that this calvacade of deep, spicy, comforting flavors awaits. 8801 Reseda Boulevard, Northridge, CA, 91324. — Matthew Kang, lead editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest
Goldong naengmyeon from Seogwan by Yellow Cow BBQ in Koreatown
Goldong naengmyeon at Seogwan by Yellow Cow BBQ in Koreatown. Matthew Kang
Every month, a new Korean barbecue spot opens in Koreatown, but it's not often that a specialist in naengmyeon arrives here, especially a heralded one from Seoul. Seogwan Myeokok, a well-regarded Pyongyang naengmyeon shop in Seoul, quietly expanded to Southern California with a partnership with Monica Kim, the chef and proprietor of Yellow Cow Barbecue in Gardena. Together, they took over the former Magal BBQ on Eighth Street with a sleek but smoke-filled dining room featuring Seogwan's elegant, fully organic U.S. buckwheat noodles served in the ethereal and subtle Pyongyang broth. Though my ancestors hail from the now North Korean capitol, I'm not sure I'll ever truly understand the subtlety of its famous cold noodle soup. I did, however, love the goldong naengmyeon, a drier set of tossed buckwheat noodles wrapped in a tight bun, topped with thin beef slices and surrounded by earthy banchan like seasoned mushrooms, sliced mu radish, and cucumbers. Texture and nuttiness come from toasted perilla leaves and ground sesame seeds. Mix it all together and enjoy for a satisfying precursor to the top-notch tabletop barbecue, or just have it as a light lunch. 3460 W. Eighth Street, Los Angeles, CA 90005. — Matthew Kang, lead editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest
Tuna dan dan noodles from Jon Yao served at Callie in San Diego
Tuna dan dan noodles from Jon Yao served at Callie in San Diego. Matthew Kang
Since its opening nearly a decade ago, Kato has always made a strong impression with familiar, simple dishes that lean on Taiwanese cuisine. Chef Jon Yao has garnered so much praise in the past few years, including at the top of the Los Angeles Times 101 Best Restaurants, a Michelin star, and most recently as the Best Chef: California by the James Beard Award Foundation. Yet, Yao continues to push boundaries, and one wonders what he could accomplish with a more casual restaurant that served something like this tuna dan dan noodles. Using meaty tuna from a six-foot-long line-caught fish just off of San Diego and serving them at a collab dinner with Callie chef Travis Skiward at his Petco Park-adjacent restaurant, these noodles were a revelation. Dense umami flavors from doubanjiang and preserved bean brought the trademark dan dan flavor without making it too heavy on the nuttiness (which came from Taiwanese sesame paste). Elegant pasta strands lapped up the chunky sauce, with the tuna almost falling into the background to the spices, rather than asserting itself. Tangled shreds of allium and cilantro brought freshness and crunch. It's a brilliant dish that I would gladly pay $30 for at Kato's bar (here's to hoping...) or a daytime menu if that ever materializes. 1195 Island Avenue, San Diego, CA 92101. — Matthew Kang, lead editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest
Caprese melt from Milestone Tavern in San Luis Obispo
Caprese melt from Milestone Tavern in San Luis Obispo. Rebecca Roland
Road trip eating is a unique challenge in itself. You want a meal that's filling enough to last for a few hours, but not so filling that driving becomes unpleasant. And a restaurant nice enough to take a break for a few minutes, without it turning into a two-hour affair and derailing any sense of urgency. On a recent trip back home from the Bay, I found myself searching for a dinner break around San Luis Obispo and stopped at Milestone Tavern, just down the street from Cal Poly. The expansive restaurant feels very brewpub-y, with plenty of beer taps and a menu of burgers, sandwiches, street tacos, and artichoke dip. I ordered a caprese melt, which was essentially a caprese sandwich on toasted sourdough. While it wasn't anything groundbreaking, the tomato was ripe, and the cheese sliced just thick enough. The balsamic was a touch sweet for my taste, but the drizzle wasn't too heavy, so I had no real complaints. A side of thick-cut fries and crispy Brussels sprouts made it an easy dinner that I'm sure I'll return to next time I'm passing through town. 972 Foothill Boulevard, San Luis Obispo, CA 93405. — Rebecca Roland, editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest
So Mush Love from Wallflour Pizza in Eagle Rock
So Mush Love from Wallflour Pizza in Eagle Rock. Mona Holmes
Good pizza resides in every corner of Los Angeles. That's not hyperbole; that's simply the application of tested technique surrounding dough, toppings, and different styles in a region known for being loyal to trying something new and delicious. One of the newest entrants to the scene is Wallflour Pizza, the former pop-up turned permanent restaurant by Carolina Pedroza-Conaway and Brandon Conaway that has proven to be one of 2025's standouts with a crust that rivals any competitor in the Southland. The duo took over the former spacious Azlan space on Colorado, near Eagle Rock Boulevard, and transformed it into a colorful and cozy room where diners can enjoy expertly leavened sourdough pizza. Although this is truly some of my favorite crust, the former Quarantine Pizza Co. made a name for itself by experimenting with toppings. Definitely share the al pastor pie, but the mushroom-topped So Mush Love is where it's at for me. The owners procured the primary ingredient from local vendor Long Beach Mushrooms, which is spread across the pie alongside Grana Padano cheese, roasted garlic cream, and fresh arugula on top. As always, this is the type of crust that's best enjoyed fresh out of the oven. Wallflour is not on any third-party delivery apps, but takeout is available by placing an order for pickup online. 2128 Colorado Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA, 90041. — Mona Holmes, editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest
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