D.C.'s Polished New Brewery Stands Out With a Rare English Ale — And Much More
D.C.'s newest brewery Henceforth is out to undo the typical craft beer experience its locals are accustomed to. No warehouse full of uncomfortable picnic tables and metal stools. No yelling to hear a conversation as the crowds swell. Quality food from a real kitchen and tenured D.C. chef. A production program that swings from classic to hard-to-find styles. A traditional English pale ale — something that few American craft breweries attempt to make — has quickly emerged as a customer and staff favorite since its May debut (1335 H Street NE).
'The starting premise was that craft beer drinkers have grown up, but the breweries haven't,' says founder, managing partner, and H Street NE resident Mike Spinello,
The layout unfolds warmly, thanks to a sophisticated midcentury modern aesthetic free of TVs, and with music turned down low to encourage conversation. Comfortable couch nooks, deep chairs, and dining tables are far removed from the stereotypical warehouse-styled setup of picnic tables and metal stools. It in no way resembles the building's former tenant, the indoor mini golf and arcade that was H Street Country Club.
'We could have built a house out of the pencils that we found,' Spinello jokes.
Everything at Henceforth is in service of the beer. That operation is overseen by co-founder and head brewer Ben Mullet. The tap list features styles that appeal to both classic and current tastes.
'I like to drink a range of beers and I also like to brew a range of beers,' Mullet says. 'Brewing the same beer over and over again is very boring.'
Mullet's credentials include gold medals at the revered annual Great American Beer Festival held in Denver, Colorado and the World Beer Cup. He wants Henceforth to be a destination for quality beers, regardless of style.
Related The Best Breweries Around D.C.
The opening lineup is nine deep, each priced at $9 for a pint or $5 for a half. Options range from a crisp, easy drinking cream ale (4.2-percent ABV) to a rich and warming Belgian-style Dubble coming in strong at 7.8-percent. And its unique English pale ale, or ESB — which stands for 'extra special bitter' — is a nice balance between malt and hop bitterness.
'It's an under-appreciated style because it's an under-brewed style,' says Mullet. 'It's just a really approachable beer.'
Having everything under the same roof means the beer is as fresh as it gets, and the small, 1,000-barrel brewing facility allows flexibility to explore new styles as seasons and tastes change. Henceforth plans to start producing a pilsner this week and a gose soon after. In addition to beer, there's a comprehensive wine program curated by Monica Lee, a veteran D.C. bartender whose resume includes stops at Ellē and Daikaya.
The kitchen is the domain of Walfer Hernandez, formerly executive chef of Southern standby Barrel on Capital Hill. Standouts among his menu of elevated pub fare include fried chicken wings dusted with Old Bay and drizzled with honey, along with a tender and juicy braised beef cheek sandwich with lemon aioli, pickled red onion, and lettuce (extra napkins recommended).
Henceforth has its eyes set on becoming a destination for the city's craft beer fans. But Spinello also hopes for something more: to rejuvenate a community that was hit especially hard in recent years.
'We all saw the potential of H Street prior to the pandemic,' Spinello says. 'This is my neighborhood. I wanted to help it come back.'
The first-floor brewpub opens at 4 p.m. Monday and Tuesday and kicks off at 12 p.m. Wednesdays through Saturdays. The larger second floor is open Wednesdays through Saturdays beginning at 4 p.m. No reservations.
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