The Wind Up – Watch News #325
Published: 20 May 2025
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Readtime: 7 min
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Welcome back to The Wind Up, our weekly series highlighting the newest watches of the past seven days. With Watches & Wonders 2025 now in the rear-view mirror, it's time to set our sights on the future. The world's biggest brands are back on the design block, unveiling a string of incredible haute horology pieces, daily drivers and unique novelties.
From dive watches and sports timepieces to the latest in classy dress watches and grand complications, the last few weeks have offered no shortage of stand-out announcements. What's more, it isn't over yet. This week, the world's biggest watchmakers—and a few budding independents—kept the good vibes rolling. In this latest instalment, we'll be featuring some of the coolest new watches, including releases from the likes of Vacheron Constantin, Girard-Perregaux and Daniel Roth. Happy reading, fellas, and I hope you have a great week ahead.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface | Image: Vacheron Constantin
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface
Brand: Vacheron Constantin
Vacheron Constantin Model: Overseas Grand Complication Openface
Overseas Grand Complication Openface Reference: Ref. 6510V/110T-128C
Ref. 6510V/110T-128C Diameter: 44.50mm
44.50mm Thickness: 7.70mm
7.70mm Material : Titanium
: Titanium Water Resistance: 30 metres
30 metres Movement : Calibre 2755 QP
: Calibre 2755 QP Power Reserve: 58 hours
58 hours Price: Price on request
Never one to rest on its laurels, luxury watchmaker Vacheron Constantin went all out with its latest drop, and it comes as somewhat of a surprise. The brand only recently debuted the record-breaking Les Cabinotiers 'Solaria Ultra Grand Complication' release (amongst others) at the recent Watches and Wonders 2025 event, which heralded a new era of high-complication wristwatches. With that announcement taking the internet by storm, no one would have blamed Vacheron Constantin for lying low and basking in the glory for a few more weeks, but alas, the brand did no such thing.
This week, the iconic watchmaker unveiled a first look at the latest Overseas Grand Complication Openface, which can only be described as a triumph of watchmaking. Boasting a perpetual calendar, a minute repeater and a tourbillon, all encased in titanium and visible through an openworked dial, the timepiece is every bit a modern marvel.
Often with an openworked dial, legibility is at a bare minimum, but Vacheron went above and beyond with the Overseas Grand Complication Openface, ensuring an easy read of data. Add to that the magnificent Maltese Cross tourbillon carriage, and what you have is a true haute horlogerie piece of the highest magnitude, but it didn't come easily. As Christian Selmoni, director of style and patrimony at Vacheron Constantin, explained, the kinetic elements of the movement presented a multitude of challenges for designers.
'When we create complex movements such as Calibre 2755 QP, it is only natural to want to reveal their full beauty, not just through a sapphire caseback, as is usual, but also by opening up the dial,' Selmoni said. 'This aesthetic, which is considered avant-garde because of its kinetic aspect, imposes its own demands. When the dial is openworked the calibre is visible from the front, so we need to apply galvanic or PVD (physical vapour deposition) surface treatments to the movement components to give them colours that fully respect the avant-garde spirit.'
At 44.5mm in diameter and with a thickness of 13.1mm, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface is by no means a small piece, but a watch like this demands attention. The new release is available now, but with pricing only available on request, your chances of snagging are slim to none. Nevertheless, we can dream.
Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver Legacy Edition | Image: Girard-Perregaux
Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver Legacy Edition
Brand: Girard-Perregaux
Girard-Perregaux Model: Deep Diver Legacy Edition
Deep Diver Legacy Edition Reference: Ref.39500-21-3266-6CX
Ref.39500-21-3266-6CX Diameter: 40.39mm
40.39mm Thickness: 38mm
38mm Material : Titanium
: Titanium Water Resistance: 200 metres
200 metres Movement: Calibre GP03300-2476
Calibre GP03300-2476 Power Reserve: 46 hours
46 hours Price: CHF14,500 (Limited to 350 pieces)
In the realm of heritage timepieces, Girard-Perregaux rarely gets the credit it deserves, but that may be about to change. The maison has just dropped a first look at the Deep Diver Legacy Edition, a new timepiece that takes direct inspiration from the 1969 Deep Diver reference 9108. That original timepiece, while not as celebrated as the Laureato or Bridges, was critical to cementing the brand's dive watch credentials in the wider market; however, it was only produced for a short period of time. Now, it is finally returning, albeit with a little help from the team at Bamford.
Sporting the same cushion case as the original, the new Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver Legacy Edition features a rather funky orange, blue and white coloured dial which pairs well with its overall aesthetic. This time around, however, Girard-Perregaux has opted for a full titanium case to reduce weight and improve durability, while also incorporating a sunray-brushed front and polished bezel into the design.
At 40.3mm in diameter, the vintage-inspired piece is suitable for contemporary wear, especially given the cushion-shaped case's extremely short lugs. On the caseback, you'll find a metallised Deep Diver trident logo in blue at its centre, which covers the GP03300 automatic movement. While the Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver Legacy Edition's rather obscure look may not appeal to everyone, you can't deny just how cool it looks.
Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription | Image: Daniel Roth
Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription
Brand: Daniel Roth
Daniel Roth Model: Extra Plat Souscription
Extra Plat Souscription Reference: Ref. DBBD01A1
Ref. DBBD01A1 Diameter: 38.60mm
38.60mm Thickness: 7.70mm
7.70mm Material : Rose gold
: Rose gold Movement: Calibre DR002
Calibre DR002 Power Reserve: 65 hours
65 hours Water Resistance: 30 metres
30 metres Price: CHF49,000
After a lengthy wait for eagle-eyed fans, Daniel Roth unveiled its second production model, the Extra Plat Souscription in rose gold. This exquisite, delicate, and very beautiful timepiece is exceptionally finished and is very much reminiscent of a period of watchmaking thought lost. This is best exemplified by the relatively clean dial, which has been paired with superb case architecture for a final product that is supremely interesting.
The Extra Plat Souscription follows a familiar design architecture, with the 38.6mm x 35.5mm proportions matching those seen on the previously released time-only model. This time around, Daniel Roth has slimmed the case slightly to 7.7mm, which is perhaps the only significant ergonomic change rolled out in this edition.
Interestingly, the timepiece's DR002 extra-thin movement is manually wound as opposed to the offset rotor movement of the previous Extra Plat models. While you could argue that this is a throwback to the traditional design language that invariably flows through the timepiece, it's a noteworthy choice nonetheless. Limited to just 20 pieces worldwide, the Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription is an exemplary piece from Daniel Roth, with dial and movement sides of the highest order. Simplistic in its design yet wonderfully complicated in its execution, it is a brilliant reminder of what lies beyond the conventions of normality in the watchmaking world.
Ming 29.01 Midnight Worldtimer | Image: Ming Watches
Ming 29.01 Midnight Worldtimer
Brand: Ming
Ming Model: 29.01 Midnight Worldtimer
29.01 Midnight Worldtimer Reference: Ref. 29.01
Ref. 29.01 Diameter: 40mm
40mm Thickness: 11.90mm
11.90mm Material : Titanium
: Titanium Water Resistance: 50 metres
50 metres Movement : Calibre ASE 222
: Calibre ASE 222 Power Reserve: 86 hours
86 hours Price: CHF22,000 (Limited to 25 pieces)
Ming unveiled its latest and greatest in the new 29.01 Midnight Worldtimer. Clad in DLC-coated titanium with a domed sapphire crystal, the 29.01 Midnight Worldtimer pairs a rather contemporary aesthetic with a very practical complication in a world timer. What makes this timepiece so unique is the use of Ming´s signature openworked 'flying blade' lugs.
'At 40mm, the 29.01 Midnight is one of our larger cases and has the visual presence to match without sacrificing anything with regards to wearability and versatility,' the brand wrote on Instagram. 'The bezel-free construction, deep box sapphire crystal and openworked flying blade lugs make the case dynamic, sculpted and seamless in a manner that is impossible to convey in images (doesn't stop us from trying though).'
The 29.01 Midnight Worldtimer is quintessentially Ming, with visual details throughout very much aligned with the brand's unique aesthetic. Turn the watch over and you're confronted by a movement that is, in a word, exquisite. While it might lack the finest of details, the ASE 222 is just a wonder to look at. Stunning piece.
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