I Just Got Back From Marbella — A Black & Unbothered Guide To A Euro Summer

Refinery29

3 hours ago

You may have already heard it declared to all and sundry: it's a Euro Summer! The recurring summer TikTok trend is geared towards luxury travel-hopping across Europe. Think al fresco dinners in Rome. Yachting around the Amalfi Coast. Picnicking at the Champ-De-Mars in France. And Kourtney Kardashian's claim to the 'Dolce Vita' lifestyle. I've been scrolling through various aesthetic videos taken across the continent that feel both romantic, cultured, and wealthy, and it got me thinking: my 'Euro summers' looked a lot different in my 20s. They were budget, boozy, and a bit feral. What new luxury experiences could I look forward to as a sophisticated (ish) Black woman in her 30s?
I recently kickstarted my Euro Summer in Marbella, a city in southern Spain on the Costa del Sol. There's much that Marbella's known for, maybe you've heard of them: parties with an all-white dress code, designer stores, celebrity sightings, and, for the acquainted, the city goes by 'Marbs' (but let's forget about that whole 'no carbs' thing). In Spain, the city has carved a global reputation for wealth, yachts owned by billionaires, privileged youth dancing all night, and exclusivity. It's a trip I wouldn't have imagined having 10 years ago at the beginning of my journalism career, and I was told to prepare to see a different side to Marbella.
A Euro Summer Through A Black British Lens
Living in the UK means I have been able to travel to many countries across Europe, mostly on the cheap via budget airlines. My experiences have been widely varied; from all-inclusive family resorts and cruises around the Mediterranean, to last-minute city breaks and along popular party strips in my teenage partying days. In Black travel communities, there's a lot said about travelling while Black and the nuanced experiences that can come with it (to put it delicately) — especially in places where we are even more of a minority than in major UK cities.
On social media, Black women from the US and beyond planning their European summers have asked, Where are the countries I'll feel most comfortable? Where will I be welcomed? These are common fears for Black women — but as we say at Unbothered all the time, there are Black people everywhere. I estimate that I've travelled to at least nine countries and 20 cities across Europe in my life, and while I have been mostly embraced (Lisbon is undefeated for how welcoming it is), unfortunately, I experienced some of the worst racism of my life in Pisa, Central Italy, and will most likely never travel to Croatia again for the same reason. But there have always been vastly more good experiences, and I found that there's an appreciation for culture that works both ways. Travelling across Europe will always be varied (Dear American friends — when you say Europe, do you mean Santorini or Skegness?), and learning not to let fear of the unknown quell my wanderlust is part of the journey.
Where I Stayed: Kimpton Los Monteros Marbella
After a quick two-hour flight from Manchester to Malaga's airport and using my choppy duo-lingo'd Spanish during a private taxi ride, I arrived at the Kimpton Los Monteros in Marbella, IHG Hotels' latest addition to its hotel portfolio in Spain. The building has an Old Hollywood cinematic feel; it's more intimate than sprawling, with bright Barcelona-inspired interiors, multiple pools and chic spots to enjoy a cocktail or two. I was struck by the hotel's warmth — it is luxurious, yes, but also airy, inviting, and friendly. It's situated a stone's throw from Marbella's beaches, but also well catered to inside. We made use of the gym, padel courts, rooftop infinity pool and were pampered lavishly in the Spa by Maison CODAGE, yet I quickly learned that where there is peace, there is also a party in Marbella.
As soon as I arrived, the hotel's truly gorgeous (respectfully) staff told me to prepare for the annual Kimpton Festival and gestured to a champagne tower balanced precariously in the courtyard. I was urged to dress in a 70s theme, and mark my words, I was already prepared. This party was both grown and boujie. Guests of the hotel lounged around the pool, mingling, laughing, and dancing. As my travel group danced the night away, I found myself vibing with many Spanish revellers — even though they didn't speak English and I definitely can't speak Spanish (typical Brit), we connected purely on vibes and the overflowing champagne. The evening managed to be both romantic and sexy, as 70s classics played as the sun set and turned the skies pink. Partiers hitched up their dresses and rolled up their trousers to dance barefoot in the pool. I walked back to my hotel room with my shoes in my hand and thought to myself,
It seems like my Euro summers never really changed!
Combine Revelry With Discovery During Your Euro Summer
There's a theme to my Marbella trip: revelry. In Marbella, my name, L'Oréal, became 'Lorena' in coffee shops, and I adopted a personality and persona that suited it; a glamorous and mysterious traveller. It's a character I like to adopt when travelling to places where I know I'll be one of the few people who look like me because, well... standing out isn't a choice, it's just a fact. And it provides me with an armour that allows me to walk into any room confidently.
We made multiple trips to La Cabane, an exclusive beach club hosted by Dolce & Gabbana and also the oldest beach club in Marbella. I was told that La Cabane has boasted many celebrity visitors over the years, including names such as Michael Jackson (who actually sheltered from the paparazzi at Los Monteros itself, during his BAD tour in 1988!), Elton John and more. As you'd expect, the club is fabulous, decadent, and a little ostentatious with bold blue and white Dolce and Gabbana print covering every surface of the room. Guests come dressed in designer beach attire to dine on Mediterranean cuisine by a Michelin-starred chef. Now this is Marbella, I expected, I thought at the time.
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I was told that La Cabane has been trying to do more than just put on famous house DJs and share more of Spanish culture with its guests. One evening, famous flamenco singer Diego El Cigala performed at a private gathering I attended. I felt honoured to witness what felt like an intimate, special moment for those who grew up watching him sing. As tables of friends and families sang along, I felt like I was watching a family film; this was the best flamenco voice of their lifetime, they told me, and I immediately understood — this is a voice that transcends language barriers.
On previous trips around Spain, there were parts where I mainly saw Brits in British pubs — which of course is more than fine at home, but not quite what I think of when I am picturing a trip to the country (a whole other conversation for a different day). For a long time, I didn't think I truly knew Spain, though I visited frequently. This would change when we learned about the history of espadrilles with the help of a family-owned espadrilles workshop, HANDMADE. They shared how espadrilles were imagined by impoverished workers who used plants to make the shoes and how, later, they were reimagined by Coco Chanel, who added a heel to the shoes and sold them to the masses. There was something special about threading the ribbon of the espadrilles by hand — I felt much more connected to its history and appreciated learning about its roots. I personally loved seeing some of Spain's true face and connecting with its soul. And of course, there is much more to learn and piques my interest as a Black traveller in Spain — and I made a note to dive into the history of Afro-Spaniards and generational African influences that are sometimes not associated with the country.
Make Eating An Important Part Of The Itinerary
If, like me, you eat most things that swim in the sea (sorry), you'll love the dishes on offer in Marbella. When I travel, I love to have a night that is revolved around one special dining experience — because food, for me, is an integral part of any cultural immersion. One privileged moment on this trip was eating a meal by José Carlos Garcia, the only Michelin-starred chef in Malaga (he also designed the delicious menu at the Kimpton Los Monteros). Truthfully, I have been intimidated by Michelin meals in the past, but the grandness of this experience was thankfully met with the encouragement to try new foods and reimagine flavour. I don't think I've ever used the word 'gastronomic' before, but it was. Each dish told of story of Garcia's heritage and his culinary training, and I was happy to come home with one of his cookbooks.
Take To The Sea & Walk Around The Old Town
It wouldn't be Marbella without setting off to sea. As we sailed around the Med, dolphins playfully surrounded us and launched into the air, as if dancing. My camera roll is now 90 per cent dolphin photos. These are the moments that will be cherished all summer long. I also ventured into Marbella's Old Town, across a strip of all white buildings and designer stores. At times, I found myself walking alone (something I always encourage people to do — safely!), getting a little lost, and I stumbled across the San Bernabé Fair, where there were multiple flamenco shows and lots of food, and once again was thrown into the magic of the culture.
I was told that Marbella became a hotspot for remote workers during the pandemic, with gorgeous weather most of the year. The city is expensive — sitting at the higher end for Spanish tourist destinations — and its long rumoured exclusivity felt true to its reputation in parts of this trip. But of course, that is part of its appeal for many people looking to have a Euro summer, many dream about.