Better days ahead for dining landmark

The Star

10-06-2025

IN THE 1980s, a small group of hawkers began setting up makeshift stalls using pushcarts along the roadside of Chai Leng Park in Butterworth, Penang.
Catering primarily to the burgeoning local community, these early vendors offered simple yet flavourful streetfare that quickly became popular among residents.
As development in the area accelerated, the need to organise these roadside businesses became increasingly apparent.
By 1994, the hawkers were relocated to a designated 250m stretch on Lebuh Kurau 5.
This move was intended to bring order to the bustling food scene.
The once-mobile carts evolved into fixed stalls, which many owners gradually expanded and personalised, with some even constructing private washrooms.
An artist's impression of a new single-storey food complex that will be built on an empty plot of land in Jalan Kurau.
'Over the years, we have invested a lot into making our stalls more comfortable and inviting,' said Yeoh You Seng, 70, who has been selling bak kut teh since 1996.
Today, the vibrant food street, fondly known as 'Wai Sek Kai' or 'Glutton Street' in Cantonese, is home to around 100 hawkers, most of whom operate in the evenings.
Each stall offers a unique rendition of beloved local dishes like char kuey teow and Hokkien mee.
The variety draws regular crowds of locals and visitors alike, making it a dining landmark in Butterworth.
However, the popularity of this bustling street has become a bane for residents living nearby, leading to significant traffic congestion and other challenges.
Traffic congestion
The Wai Sek Kai at Chai Leng Park is home to several famous stalls, such as this one selling 'lok lok'.
Taman Chai Leng Village Community Management Council (MPKK) chairman Tan Hock Chai has highlighted the issues caused by the food street's popularity.
'The heavy traffic has become a source of inconvenience for nearby residents.
'Cars are often parked along the narrow roads, making it difficult for emergency vehicles to pass through,' he lamented.
'To ease congestion and improve conditions for both the hawkers and the community, relocating them to a proper complex with modern facilities is vital,' he said.
Plans are already underway to move the hawkers to a new RM8mil purpose-built food complex in Jalan Kurau, close to the existing site.
Construction of this single- storey complex has begun, with a groundbreaking ceremony expected soon.
Seberang Perai City Council councillor AS Ponnudurai explained that the new complex would house 100 trading lots, each measuring 2.5m by 3.6m and equipped with individual sinks to ensure hygienic food preparation.
Additional facilities will include public washrooms, a foyer and a dedicated entrance for visitors.
Chee, a claypot chicken rice seller, says a newer place will provide better hygiene and convenience to customers.
The complex is expected to be ready by 2027.
'The current hawker site, which has been in operation for over 30 years, has become increasingly overcrowded and plagued with recurring issues such as poor drainage and outdated infrastructure,' said Ponnudurai.
'The new complex will not only offer improved facilities but also feature a playground, landscaped gardens, and modern amenities.
'All these will be managed by the city council,' he added.
Hawkers divided
The present stretch of stalls is overcrowded and suffers from a lack of amenities, making it inconducive to hygienic food preparation.
Despite the promise of modern amenities, not all hawkers are eager to move. Many have built their businesses at the current site over decades and are deeply rooted in the community.
'This place is steeped in heritage and well-known as a food haven among locals and visitors,' said Yeoh.
'Business has been good here, so instead of relocating, why not invest in repairing and upgrading what we already have?'
Desserts seller Penny Ong, 60, who has been trading at the current site for nearly 30 years, shares this sentiment.
'I believe at least 80% of the stall owners prefer to stay. Business is good and this location is familiar and convenient for our customers.
'There is vacant land behind us that can be turned into parking lots, and improving the drainage and facilities here isn't difficult,' she noted.
Yeoh says the food street is steeped in heritage.
While acknowledging that relocation may eventually be inevitable, Ong hopes that the authorities will reconsider.
'This place has history, and we have built a loyal customer base here. I truly hope we are allowed to stay,' she added.
On the other hand, some vendors see the relocation as an opportunity.
Claypot chicken rice seller Chee Leck Chang views the move to the new complex as beneficial.
'I have a lot of cookware, and I hope the new place with designated lots will offer better security against theft.
Ong says at least 80% of the stall owners prefer to stay.
'A newer place will also provide better hygiene and convenience to customers, as I am certain it will be more organised,' said Chee who has been running his stall for over 20 years.
A drinks seller, who declined to be named, shared similar sentiments about the challenges faced by hawkers.
'Since the Covid-19 pandemic about five years ago, many traders, including myself, have resorted to using disposable utensils for ease and hygiene.
'Whether it is rice, noodles or other dishes that used to be served with reusable utensils, they now come in disposable packaging even for dine-in customers.
'Although the local council discourages this practice and despite the drawback in dining experience, it is more convenient for many of us to just dispose of everything after use,' she said.
'I do hope that the new complex will offer improved washing facilities, to reduce reliance on disposables,' she added.
Ponnudurai says the new food complex will offer better facilities.
Another hawker, who wished to be known only as Ong, 40, voiced his frustration about the ongoing lack of proper toilets.
'There is a toilet, but it belongs to a fellow hawker and it only opens when he is operating.
'If he is off, the toilet is locked and inaccessible.
'We often have to walk a long way to use the restroom at nearby coffeeshops,' Ong said, adding that the new food complex would offer upgraded facilities to vendors and customers.
Familiarity vs new facilities
Patrons of the food street are also divided over the impending move, torn between the charm of the existing street setup and the promise of better facilities at the new complex.
Office clerk Usha Ayyappan, 56, who visits the hawker stalls about once a week, prefers the convenience and familiarity of the current location.
'The ambience here is relaxing and cosy, which is perfect for winding down with family after work.
Usha fears the new food complex would charge higher rental, forcing hawkers to increase prices.
'Although parking is limited, the roadside bays are conveniently right across from the stalls.
'Right now, food prices are still reasonable, but a new complex might bring parking fees or higher stall rentals, which could affect prices,' she said.
Retired civil servant N. Ananda, 72, who lives nearby, appreciates the central and visible location of the stalls.
'The whole stretch of hawker stalls is strategically located along the row and is easily seen by passersby, making it convenient to stop for food.
'I often drop by for a herbal drink, but if it moves into a food complex, it will be a hassle,' he said.
Technician Alan Teh, 45, who was dining with colleagues, believes the current site is long overdue for a revamp.
'Over time, the floor and infrastructure here have deteriorated.
'Poor drainage and lack of proper facilities make it hard for hawkers to maintain cleanliness and difficult for customers to clean up after meals,' he noted.
Teh, who has been frequenting the area since childhood, said that if the hawkers could not upkeep their present business premises, the new food complex would serve as a fresh start.
'Many hawkers have lost their original spark for cooking authentic local food and are now hiring foreign helpers.
'The vibrant and local atmosphere is already fading, so they may as well move to a modern, systematic location,' he said.