London's African fine dining boom: How restaurants like Akoko and Chishuru are redefining the scene

Euronews

18-02-2025

In recent years, London has experienced a significant rise in the number of African restaurants. Among the standout names is Akoko, one of the few African restaurants in the UK capital to earn a Michelin star, and it's clear why.
When I first entered, I was struck by the sophisticated atmosphere—this was not the typical African restaurant I had visited before. It is a place where fine dining meets West African traditions and the result is truly special.
The founder, Aji Akokomi, envisioned a space where African cuisine could stand shoulder-to-shoulder with the world's best, and he's easily succeeded with his vision.
'I've been to Chinese, French, Indian, and countless other fine dining establishments, but I couldn't find an African restaurant that felt on par with the others. That's when I decided it was time to create something different,' Akokomi explained.
Akoko, which means 'time' in Nigeria's Yoruba language, represents the moment to bring exceptional West African cuisine to the heart of London. The restaurant's menu is a blend of tradition and innovation, where African ingredients and time-honoured techniques are elevated with modern, Michelin-worthy finesse. From the delicate balance of spices to the unexpected textures in each dish, Akoko offers a dining experience like no other.
The high-quality ingredients and the precision with which they're prepared set Akoko apart from anything I've encountered in African cuisine before. One dish stood out; a beautifully prepared beef served with uniquely cooked vegetables. The vegetables perfectly complemented the juicy richness of the beef. And, of course, the jollof rice—it wasn't just a side dish, but the heart of the meal. Spicy, aromatic, and bursting with deep, complex flavours with a crunchy twist. It's a dish that showcases just how bold and intricate African food can be when approached with creativity and respect for its roots.
But Akoko isn't the only place where African cuisine is shining in London. Restaurants like Chishuru are also at the forefront of this movement. Chishuru was awarded a Michelin star in 2024 and its chef Adejoke Bakare was the UK's first female African chef to be awarded this.
When I visited Chishuru which in Hausa means 'to eat silently,' I had the chance to speak with a waitress from Cameroon, who shared her perspective on the increasing trend of African food in the city. 'I'm from Cameroon, so I recognise a lot of the ingredients and flavours here. For those familiar with African cuisine, it's a comforting experience. But for newcomers, it's a chance to explore something completely new; exciting and fresh flavours they may not have experienced before,' she explained.
It is exactly that mix of familiarity and discovery that makes African cuisine so exciting to experience in London right now.
Back at Akoko, another memorable part of my meal was a unique course from the taster menu: Cashew crème on a plantain bellini, topped with caviar. It was a perfect example of the creativity that defines Akoko's approach, blending traditional African techniques with fine dining.
I wasn't sure how the combination would work, but the creamy cashew cream paired with the sweet plantain bellini, balanced perfectly with the salty, briny taste of the caviar. It was refreshing and unexpected, showing just how far African chefs are willing to go in terms of creativity while staying true to their culinary traditions.
It's not just about food; African cuisine in London is becoming a cultural movement. Aji Akokomi's success with Akoko is part of a larger trend in which chefs are making African food not only accessible but also refined, placing it alongside some of the best fine dining options in the city. 'We're seeing more West African restaurants open, and it's wonderful to see them thriving,' he says. 'The success of places like Akoko proves that the interest in African food is only going to grow.'
As African flavours continue to make their mark, I can't help but feel that the culinary scene in London is richer and more vibrant for it. Whether through a refined, Michelin-starred experience at Akoko or Chishuru or a more casual yet equally exciting dish at Enish or Chuku which are Nigerian restaurants also based in London, African cuisine in the capital is here to stay, and there's no shortage of excitement around this evolving food culture.