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France 24
a day ago
- France 24
Tale of love, passion behind Mexico's 'boundary-pushing' Quintonil
Quintonil, which opened in 2012 in the upscale Mexico City neighborhood of Polanco, already boasted two Michelin stars. Now it is also ranked number three by the Michelin Guide's British rival, "The World's 50 Best Restaurants," which praised its "boundary-pushing" cuisine. "Focused on fresh, local ingredients and traditional Mexican flavors and techniques weaved into modern preparations, it is fast becoming a classic," it said. Named after an aromatic plant from the southern state of Oaxaca, Quintonil stands behind only Maido in Lima and Asador Etxebarri in Spain in the list. At the reception, Alejandra Flores -- one half of the charismatic couple behind Quintonil -- gives a taste of the hospitality and kindness for which Mexicans are known. "I truly believe in the saying, 'He who does not live to serve does not serve to live,'" she said. Service "must be a dance" or even an "embrace," added Flores, who studied hospitality management in Switzerland. Intimate, not ostentatious In the two small dining rooms, next to a counter seating area that opens onto the kitchen, around a dozen tables receive customers from around the world. It is in this setting -- more intimate than ostentatious -- that Quintonil has gradually gained global recognition, much like Mexico City, which is attracting an increasing number of visitors from the United States and Europe. Understated, like his restaurant, head chef Jorge Vallejo used to work on cruise ships before returning to Mexico City where he joined another renowned restaurant, Pujol. It was there that he met Flores, his wife. Located a few streets away, Pujol has long been the benchmark for new Mexican gastronomy. In 2022, "The World's 50 Best Restaurants" ranked chef Enrique Olvera's establishment fifth, while Quintonil was in ninth place. The student has since overtaken his teacher, but feels a debt of gratitude: Pujol's elevation of Mexican cuisine to another level has inspired others, Vallejo said. "Twenty years ago, people knew very little about what Mexican gastronomy really is as we know it today," he added. Today, more foreigners are familiar with a diverse cuisine that ranges from street tacos to fine dining, in both cases using local products such as corn and tomatoes. 'Close to my heart' Quintonil combines seasonal ingredients -- in July it was asparagus, carrots, and mushrooms -- with traditional Mexican staples, such as mole, a sauce made with spices and cocoa. "Right now, a dish that's close to my heart is vegetable mole. We prepare it with asparagus," enthused Vallejo, happy that his discovery allows for a lighter sauce. Quintonil's ingredients are "98 percent Mexican," including the wines. The exceptions are caviar, one type of fish, and olive oil, said Vallejo, who favors local sources. "I have a good friend whose family grows white beans" in the northwestern state of Sinaloa, he said. Quintonil has mastered the art of blending traditional Mexican flavors with contemporary cuisine, according to the "50 Best" list, citing the example of "tamales of duck pibil with elote cream," a corn-based sauce. The award has been decided since 2002 by more than a thousand "culinary experts," including chefs, specialist journalists and restaurant owners. While French chefs question its legitimacy, accusing it of opacity, in the case of Quintonil the verdict seems unanimous. According to the Michelin Guide, Quintonil's tasting menu is "constantly evolving" with "delights such as crab and shards of blue corn tostada arranged with a vivid pipian verde enhanced with untraditional elements like galangal, lemongrass, and makrut lime." Quintonil's cuisine "is an enticing melding of excellent local product, impressive execution, and great creativity to produce refined compositions," it said.
Local France
4 days ago
- Local France
Iconic French chef stakes reputation on vegan menu
Since July 21st, Passard has stopped serving meat, fish, dairy products and eggs at L'Arpege, his restaurant in the French capital's chic seventh district that he has run for nearly 40 years. The only exception is honey that comes from the restaurateur's own beehives. Passard said the switch had been in the pipeline for a year. "There's light in this cuisine," he told AFP. "There are taste sensations that I've never experienced anywhere else." Advertisement L'Arpege used to be known as one of the leading rotisseries in Paris. It earned three Michelin stars in 1996, and has held the distinction ever since. In 2001, Passard caused a stir in the rarefied world of French cuisine by dropping red meat from his menu and saying he would focus more on vegetables grown in his gardens. The shift made him one of the first ambassadors of plant-based cuisine. READ ALSO : 'Call the restaurant': Your tips for being vegetarian or vegan in France✎ While Passard is motivated by environmental concerns in his new quest, it is above all a culinary challenge. The restaurant's updated menu includes mesclun praline with roasted almonds and melon carpaccio. Lunch costs €260. Passard has no plans to become fully vegan himself. "I still eat a little poultry and fish," he said. "But I'm more comfortable with plants. They allow me to learn." French chef Claire Vallee knows from experience that Passard is up for a challenge. "It requires a lot more preparation, knowledge and research," Vallee said of plant-based dishes. "It's quite a colossal task." Advertisement In 2021, her vegan restaurant in southwest France won a Michelin star, the first for an establishment serving only animal-free products in France. Vallee in 2016 launched ONA - Origine Non Animale (Non-Animal Origin) - thanks to crowdfunding from supporters and a loan from a green bank. The establishment closed in 2022, and the 45-year-old chef went on to open several pop-up restaurants. Since then, no other French restaurant serving only animal-free products has been awarded a Michelin star. Internationally, vegan haute cuisine is rare. Eleven Madison Park in New York has kept its three stars after becoming exclusively vegan in 2021. In the Netherlands, De Nieuwe Winkel's plant-based menu has earned it two Michelin stars. Laurent Guez, a food critic for French newspaper Le Parisien and business daily Les Echos, said Passard's announcement was "a major event". But he also warned that not a lot of chefs could excel in the art of high-end plant-based gastronomy. "It's exceptional cuisine that not everyone can allow themselves to launch into," he said. Michelin guide international director Gwendal Poullennec said he was "delighted" with the transition at L'Arpege, describing it as a "positive approach". "We will continue to follow the evolution of L'Arpege, remaining faithful to our criteria," he told AFP. Passard has given himself two years to take his kitchen skills to a new level. Is he worried about losing his three stars? "I've never thought about that," he said. "We're going to have to deliver. If we can maintain this level of quality, then I'm extremely confident.
Euronews
23-07-2025
- Euronews
Horses to Falcons: Preserving Qatar's animal traditions
Qatar 365 explores the country's rich animal traditions that date back centuries. Johanna Hoes visits the prestigious Katara International Arabian Horse Festival to find out why the majestic creatures are so unique, while Laila Humairah gets exclusive access to a falcon hospital at the historic Souq Waqif. Aadel Haleem takes a deep dive into one of Qatar's marine treasures: the whale shark, the gentle giant of the Arabian Gulf. ㅤㅤㅤㅤ ㅤㅤㅤ ㅤㅤㅤ ㅤㅤㅤ ㅤ
