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My easy-breezy family holiday to Europe's wackiest theme park

My easy-breezy family holiday to Europe's wackiest theme park

Times2 days ago
I used to be fun. Before I had kids, planning for a theme park visit would have meant getting excited about rollercoasters and wondering if I would have time to ride the best ones twice. Now? It's all fretting about parking, luggage and the sheer tedium of how to get around a busy attraction in the school summer holidays with three small kids.
Or is it? I was the first journalist through the doors of the new hotel at beloved Dutch theme park Efteling, just ahead of the official opening on August 1, and the first clue that things might be a bit different here came a week or so before we arrived. Check-in at Efteling Grand Hotel was completed online, our car registration was taken and valet parking confirmed. Fast forward to our stay and there we were sailing through the automatic barriers, handing our car keys to a man in a waistcoat and watching our luggage being whisked away while the children pinged around the hotel's elegant lobby like cats released from cages (or, rather, preschoolers unclipped after a day spent in their car seats).
It's about a four-hour drive from the Calais end of the Channel tunnel to Efteling in the south of the Netherlands, an hour or so from Rotterdam, and it showed. In the lobby our five-year-old banged on the keys of the grand piano, her younger sister sprinted up the spiral staircase and their two-year-old brother clambered over an artfully arranged pile of vintage suitcases. Fortunately, there were indulgent smiles from the hotel staff as we corralled them all into the lift and up to our suite. Thanks to the Efteling app, I had our room key already to hand: no in-person check-in required.
Rooms at the hotel are vast. Ours had three separate bedrooms (two doubles, the other with bunks), while even the smallest I saw came with a built-in single kids bunk. All 140 of them have views of the park — across to the thatched peaks of the entrance building and the fountains of Vonderplas lake, or into the Fairytale Forest, where recreations of 31 fairytale scenes, including Rapunzel in her tower and Sleeping Beauty in her castle, are dotted throughout a pleasant woodland. The kids pressed their palms against the floor-to-ceiling windows and fizzed with excitement.
There's a nod to the grand 19th-century hotels of Europe throughout the hotel, with squishy carpets in bold monochrome print, wood-panelled walls painted rich magenta and plenty of brushed gold, but what really sets Efteling Grand Hotel apart is its location. This isn't one of those theme park hotels that requires shuttle buses and lengthy walks to reach the park gates; it is literally inside the park. Plus, guests not only have their own dedicated entrance to the Fairytale Forest, but also access to the park half an hour ahead of everybody else.
So we were into the park at 9.30am the next morning, standing alone outside Hansel and Gretel's house and coming face to squealing face with a dragon. There's a glorious almost-wild feeling to this part of the park, with logs to climb on and paths that wind between the trees. This zone dates back to 1952 and was the work of the Dutch artist Anton Pieck and the film-maker Peter Reijnders. It's a charming place, not least because it immediately engages all three children, who spot gnomes and a troll king, and talk to a parrot that talks right back, speaking sagely of not answering the door to the big bad wolf. The highlight? Probably the Pinocchio attraction, where the four-year-old shrieks with glee as she swings a vast fishing rod in the face of a giant monster fish and finds the wooden boy hiding inside its mouth.
Because the hotel is just inside the park gates we were able to break up exploring its attractions with short rests in our room or a quick swim in the indoor pool. This immediately became my favourite spot in the hotel, with a more spa-like feel than any family pool I've seen: the water was properly warm, there were bubble jets the kids could sit among with us and a soothing dusky-blue-and-white colour scheme throughout. Even better, the shallowest pool was only 5cm deep and came with a water jet and an array of (tastefully coloured) plastic cups for little ones to play with. It kept our youngest entertained for ages, while the complimentary armbands meant our two nonswimmers could safely pootle around the deeper pools more or less unaided. I actually relaxed for a few minutes there.
Unfortunately the hotel's restaurants didn't quite nail it. There are two, both overlooking Vonderplas lake: Brasserie 7 on the ground floor, which serves classic dishes such as French onion soup and steak tartare (mains from £21), and Mystique, a family fine dining affair on the first floor. I could perhaps chalk up Brasserie 7's glacially slow service to teething problems, but I can't imagine families wanting to book Mystique's 'adventurous flavour combinations' (£56 for three courses). It's not recommended for children younger than nine, but even so, we're talking ingredients such as wasabi root and kohlrabi and I'm not sure you would want to spend several hours sitting at a restaurant table, given the park stays open until 10pm. Better, I'd say, to come here for a drink, taken while perched on a stool overlooking the crowds during the nightly Aquanura fountain show that lights up Vonderplas lake.
On our final afternoon I took advantage of the hotel's superb location, sending my husband on the easy stroll back to the room with the kids while I grabbed the opportunity to indulge my love of rollercoasters. Thanks to Efteling's separate lines for solo riders, which slot you into otherwise empty seats, I was able to walk straight on to Joris en de Draak and was speeding along its wooden track, whooping, arms raised, before the kids would even have found the TV remote. Within the hour I had also ridden the speedy steel coaster Python, the indoor coaster Vogel Rok, which swoops like an eagle through utter darkness, and my instant favourite, Baron 1898.
All my pretrip fretting over practicalities hadn't allowed any time for reading about Efteling's rides, which left me totally unprepared for Baron 1898's whopping 37.5m freefall. And so, surprised and delighted, I let out an involuntary giggle/gasp as we hung motionless above the drop — and sparked a booming belly laugh from the man seated next to me. Perhaps I can still be quite fun after all. Helen Ochyra was a guest of Efteling Grand Hotel, which has B&B family rooms for four from £508, including valet parking and park entry (efteling.com). Drive from the UK, or take the train or fly to Eindhoven
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Italy's undercover pizza detectives
Italy's undercover pizza detectives

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time2 hours ago

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Italy's undercover pizza detectives

As pizza's popularity spreads around the world, a group of top-secret agents are travelling the globe on espionage missions to determine what "real" pizza is. On a sweltering day bleached by the fearsome southern Italian sun, a group of international travellers have gathered a stone's throw from Naples' San Gennaro catacombs, named for the city's patron saint. But these visitors aren't here to venerate the ancient martyr; they've come in service of something equally important to the city's identity. Hailing from Belgium, France, Japan, South Korea, Canada and Brazil, these men and women are all aspiring pizzaioli (traditional Italian pizza makers), and they are about to take the biggest pizza test of their lives. The trainees are at the headquarters of the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana (the "True Neapolitan Pizza Association", or AVPN for short). 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But just as there are strict criteria for determining "authentic" Champagne or Parmigiano cheese, this group of culinary custodians has set out to ensure that the delectable dish stays true to its Neapolitan roots – at least if you're going to call it "real" pizza. "There is a big connection between this kind of food and the soul of Naples," says Massimo Di Porzio, vice president at the AVPN, who is flecked with flour in his corporate profile photo. With its training school, competitions, trade fairs and a large bronze pizza statue shining just outside its headquarters the AVPN has become a veritable empire of pizza authenticity. Its lengthy guidelines dictate that all certified pies must consist of a "roundish seasoned disc" with a high-border, puffy crust (cornicione) no taller than 1-2cm. There should be no "big bubbles" or "burned spots". Pizzas must be "soft", "elastic" and foldable. Pizza-makers can't use a rolling pin or baking tray. Cooking a pizza for longer than 90 seconds is sacrilegious. And the final product must be consumed within 10 minutes after emerging from the oven. On the blistering-hot final day of the AVPN's rigorous monthly training course, the international students will put their newfound pizza knowledge to the test. Attendees have studied dough-leavening techniques and hydration, the ins and outs of yeast, the nuances of picking fresh toppings and ideal salt-to-water ratios. They've practiced the intricacies of placing pizza into ovens – a simple-seeming but deceptively tricky step – all with the goal of baking a consistently perfect pie. "I was quite nervous, especially as people started coming back from their exams," says Gemma Eldridge, a Canadian pizza-maker. "But you're really only there for three minutes. You don't really have time to be nervous." From 10:00 to 18:00 during the nine-day course, Eldridge and her fellow pizzaioli baked as many as 40 practice pies each day. 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They must photograph their kitchen, equipment and ingredients, as well as take videos of their head pizza chef preparing dough and making and cooking a pizza. This is all sent off to the AVPN headquarters in Naples with no guarantee of approval. To date, roughly 1,000 pizzerias from Japan to Siberia and Ecuador to the UK have signed up to be part of this elite pizza club and, once accredited, can display their AVPN certificate bearing a striped figure wielding a baking peel, all together forming a global network of pizzerias where travellers know they can get the real deal. Still, a restaurant's scrutiny isn't over once it's accredited, as the AVPN intermittently dispatches secret pizza agents on espionage missions to clandestinely spy on the restaurants. Any pizzeria found non-compliant with the group's standards by these quality-control spies risks de-listing. According to one such agent, who cannot be named: "The most serious error I found was a pizza that was crispy and with dough that was definitely not approved." The Association verified the problem and then promptly removed this restaurant from its list of pizzerias. In Japan, a pizzeria that was kicked out of the organisation – but continued to display its certificate – learned of the consequences the hard way. "We went to Osaka and removed it," laughs Di Porzio, recalling the lawyer accompanying the pizza enforcers. This mission to define authentic pizza has a curious side effect, says Karima Mover-Nocchi, a food historian at the University of Siena, who suggests the whole process is as much about myth-making as it is maintaining traditional like this:• A chef's guide to the best pizza in Naples• How to make pizza like a Neapolitan master• Italy's beloved 'fried pizza' By codifying "authentic" pizza, she says the AVPN creates an "inner circle" of true-pizza certificate holders. In short: all the exclusivity gets people salivating over pizza more. "The AVPN aren't just preserving a tradition, they're producing it," she says. "[The AVPN is elevating pizza] into a transcendental experience. They're safeguarding the dish, but also creating a mystique – and you're made to feel like you're part of something that's enduring." Still, given the high drama of these top-secret cloak-and-dagger pizza investigations, it's ironic that such fussy standards to maintain "traditional" Neapolitan pies haven't always existed. According to Di Porzio, centuries ago, Naples' artisanal pizza-makers each had differing techniques, usually passed down from father to son. But in the late 20th Century, faced with a groundswell of shoddy fast-food simulacra that offered fake-Neapolitan pizza, AVPN founder Antonio Pace – who is from a long lineage of pizzaioli – gathered 16 other pizza-making families to standardise what makes an "authentic" pie. There were bumps along the way for the "17 families", as they are known. A major row erupted over the finer details of dough fermentation, but the initial guidelines were published in 1984 and the AVPN was formed. In 1998, the organisation teamed up with the nearby Università Parthenope di Napoli to study pizza science, cutting-edge baking technology and the broader impact of the food, co-creating the Socio-Economic Observatory of Neapolitan Pizza. A yearly conference of top pizza-makers debate whether new findings, such as improvements to flour manufacturing, necessitate a rejigging of the regulations. But for all this precision and protectiveness over pizza napoletana, Antonio Puzzi, the editor-in-chief of the magazine Pizza e Pasta Italiana, notes that Italy has dozens of different types of pizzas. There's Neapolitan pizza fritta(deep-fried calzone), but also Roman pizza, which is crispier and crunchier than the Neapolitan style and rolled with a pin rather than hand-stretched. Then there's pizza nel ruoto (pizza baked in a pan), cooked in a small baking tin; the hot and crispy deep-fried pizzonta from Abruzzo; and a long list of variations on focaccias and flatbreads. "There are a lot of recognised kinds of pizza in many cities and many states," says Puzzi. "But the only official representation is for Neapolitan pizza." Even with Italy's many pizza varieties, certain faux pas – such as ordering a chicken pizza overseas – remain just as likely to invoke the wrath of Italian purists. Case in point: after trying in vain to open 880 shops in Italy, US pizza brand Domino's famously filed for bankruptcy in the bel paese in 2022 – and never dared to open a branch in Naples. Yet, some argue that Italian tastes arechanging, and despite the AVPN's seeming rigidity, they now seem to be more amenable to modifying their exacting standards than they were in the past. "If we can improve something, we'll change it, so we are very open," says Di Porzio. In 2024, Sorbillo, one of the AVPN's examiners and accredited restaurateurs, controversially debuted a Neapolitan pizza with Hawaiian-style toppings. While critics such as Puzzi describe the pizza as a "provocation" – and employees of the eponymous Naples restaurant Gino e Toto Sorbillo all but refused to serve it to me – Sorbillo believes there's room for both modernity and tradition. "Pizza does not stop at a certain point – it's always developing, changing, cooperating with the Association, there is always something to learn," he says. "The pizza of today is not the same as 40 years ago." Yet times do change, acknowledges Di Porzio, who says the AVPN faced a "lot of criticism" for accepting in 2013 that Neapolitan pizza could be cooked in electric ovens as well as the traditional wooden receptacles. The decision rankled the most hardcore traditionalists, says Di Porzio. Still, even as trends and styles shift and previously taboo toppings become de rigueur, Di Porzio and the AVPN believe it's important to maintain traditional cooking methods too. "I always say, pizza napoletana is not necessarily the best, but the pizza that has its strongest roots in the culture," says Di Porzio. "So it's a skill that we need to teach and preserve." -- For more Travel stories from the BBC, follow us on Facebook and Instagram.

Marriage Diaries: ‘My wife is an adventurous eater and it ruins every summer holiday'
Marriage Diaries: ‘My wife is an adventurous eater and it ruins every summer holiday'

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Marriage Diaries: ‘My wife is an adventurous eater and it ruins every summer holiday'

It was the lapas that did it—a big, steaming plate of the things, grilled with garlic and butter. For the uninitiated (which included me and most of my family at the time), lapas are limpets. An Azorean delicacy. How can I describe them? Well, you know when you've masticated chewing gum of its original flavour and you're about to get rid of it? Well, they're kind of like that, but a bit chewier and a lot more garlicky and slimy. They seemed to be going down a storm in the restaurant that my wife had dragged us all to. And the reason they were going down a storm was because the restaurant was packed with locals. When I say locals, I mean grizzled old fishermen with no teeth, which is probably why they were being eaten like mini-oysters and slurped down with copious quantities of the local hooch. And, when I say restaurant, I mean a back street choked with tables, chairs, and dogs and cats, around an opening in a wall from which plate after plate of lapas kept appearing. The reason we were there was because my wife is a very adventurous eater, and every time we go away, we are forced to adhere to her mantra of 'eating like locals'. In the past, this has led to us being presented with fish eyes in Greece, octopus in Portugal, blue beef in Spain, and, of course, frog legs and snails in France. Every time we go away, we end up eating another local delicacy. And that's fine with me. I don't regard myself as an unadventurous eater. And the kids aren't picky either. However, what's not fine with me (and the kids) is that our quest for foods that many would regard as challenging now takes place almost every night of our week-long foreign holiday. Thankfully, as I've mentioned, most of the restaurants where we eat these dishes are in back streets, surrounded by dogs and cats which means that the entire family have developed certain sleight of hand techniques that ensure we send a clean plate back to the kitchen so that we don't offend either the local chef or my wife. And the local stray mammal population doesn't go hungry. Then it's every man and teenager for themselves as we find our own ways to fill the groaning holes in our stomachs, bingeing on the bread basket or snaffling secret burgers in town. The situation has even made me wonder if we can afford to venture across to the US, where eating like locals would surely involve burgers, hot dogs, nachos, or we may even have to endure 'low and slow' brisket and ribs, dripping in barbecue sauce. I've even considered a staycation in one of those forest-based holiday villages where our dining would be a mixture of self-catering and traditional English fare, but the lack of guaranteed sunshine is putting me off. However, we all love Europe, so, it's back to the land of adventurous eating and this time Croatia, where I've already researched some of the weirdest delicacies the country has to offer so that the kids and I are fully briefed on what we might be facing on our dinner plates – grilled dormouse or frog and eel stew, anyone? However, this time there is a soft rebellion afoot, because unbeknown to my wife, I have booked an all-inclusive where our breakfast, lunch and dinner will be provided, buffet-style. Of course, we'll still explore the local cuisine to keep my wife happy, our horizons broadened and the local dormouse population under control, but we can now face the local delicacies safe in the knowledge that if they don't get our gastric juices flowing then back at the hotel buffet, in the heart of the Balkans, 'Asia night' is waiting for us.

Molly-Mae Hague jets off to lavish £2k-per-night hotel in Turkey with Tommy Fury and daughter Bambi - after 'out of touch' influencer was blasted for claiming she 'hasn't done one fun thing' all summer
Molly-Mae Hague jets off to lavish £2k-per-night hotel in Turkey with Tommy Fury and daughter Bambi - after 'out of touch' influencer was blasted for claiming she 'hasn't done one fun thing' all summer

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Molly-Mae Hague jets off to lavish £2k-per-night hotel in Turkey with Tommy Fury and daughter Bambi - after 'out of touch' influencer was blasted for claiming she 'hasn't done one fun thing' all summer

Molly-Mae Hague looked worlds happier as she enjoyed a £2K-per-night holiday in Turkey with Tommy Fury and daughter Bambi on Sunday, after claiming her summer has been 'no fun' - despite spending much of it abroad. To date, the millionaire Love Island star has spent the warmer months enjoying first class trips to Dubai, Paris, Saint Tropez and Wimbledon 's Centre Court, where she was greeted like Hollywood royalty after being invited by tournament sponsor Evian water. But the evidently hard to please influencer has once again ruffled feathers this week across social media by claiming her summer has, thus far, been boring. 'I haven't socialised once,' she told her older sister Zoe in a recent YouTube vlog. 'I haven't done one social, fun thing... I haven't a life.' However, Molly has now once again jetted off on her seventh holiday of the year, this time to the luxury 5-star Regnum The Crown hotel, which has been 'carefully curated to deliver a true family holiday without compromise.' The TV personality has shared snaps from her current getaway on Instagram, as the family enjoyed the hotel's Aqualantis, the newly unveiled water park. Bikini-clad Molly was seen beaming as Bambi, two, sat on her lap while going down a small water slide, at the Aqualantis which also includes a number of water slides, lazy rivers and an immersive themed zones for hours of entertainment for every age. The family looked happy to be spending quality time together at the celebrity hotspot where Jennifer Lopez recently celebrated her birthday and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and actor husband Jason Statham have also holidayed. Other celebrities who have stayed at the hotel's same hotel group, include Dua Lipa, Rita Ora, Jason Derulo and Tom Jones. Molly shared a glimpse at the families huge luxurious room, which is one of 553 spacious suites and private villas at the hotel, as Tommy and Bambi cosied up in bed. The couple also enjoyed a freshly cooked lunch while sitting in a restaurant overlooking the picturesque beach. If Molly and Tommy would like some time alone the hotel also offers 'Bamboo Kids World, a safe, vibrant space where children can explore, learn and create under expert supervision while, parents can enjoy well-earned relaxation, knowing their little ones are in excellent hands.' The mother-of-one looked restless on Thursday as she prepared to board a Jet2 flight with partner Tommy and Bambi after arriving at a busy Manchester Airport. The influencer had her hands full with Bambi's empty pushchair and the family luggage while Tommy walked hand-in-hand with their young daughter. And there wasn't a smile to be seen as she waited at check-in with her family before helpful Jet2 staff came to their assistance. After landing at the Antalya International Airport, Molly only had a twenty minute trip to the hotel which is surrounded by panoramic views of the turquoise Mediterranean. The couple also enjoyed a freshly cooked lunch while sitting in a restaurant overlooking the picturesque beach However, the holiday is the latest in a series of overseas trips for Molly-Mae, but neither the art and architecture of Paris, the sun-kissed glamour of Dubai nor the sweeping Mediterranean coastlines of Saint Tropez have impressed. 'I will get to the end of summer without having done one fun thing,' she moaned while talking to her sister in July. 'Zoe, I haven't socialised once. I am going to get to the end of this summer, I haven't done one social fun thing.' The globe-trotting influencer added: 'I haven't a life. I haven't a life. It's not good. 'It's all kids related, if it's not work and kids I am not doing anything. It's not good. People going for a drink with their friends or to a beer garden. 'Oh my gosh, I don't remember the last time I did my hair and makeup and put an outfit on for something that wasn't work related. 'I don't do anything. Lets normalise it. For the girls that are going to get to the end of summer and not done one fun thing.' However Molly-Mae did accept that her recent trip to Wimbledon, during which she did indeed wear make-up and a £3,000 Dior dress, was a 'fun' occasion. She said: 'No that's a lie because people are going to say "You went to London in your last vlog and had a ball," and I did.' Unsurprisingly, Molly-Mae's latest comments didn't go down well with her two million-plus YouTube subscribers, with many claiming she was 'out of touch', 'tone-deaf' and 'always moaning'. The influencer started strong this summer by signing a seven-figure deal with consumer goods firm Unilever and starring in a new campaign for its detergent brand, Persil and Comfort, in May. She fronted a new 'delicate' fragrance range with her toddler Bambi, who made her campaign debut in a fluffy pink jumper and ballerina tutu. Putting her name behind their 'Heaven Scent' non-bio capsules, fabric conditioner and a scent booster elixir, Molly-Mae said: 'I can be really protective of what I use at home, especially since having Bambi. 'My skin's always been sensitive, so I need products I know are kind to my skin but still leave everything smelling amazing and this range honestly does both.' But it wasn't all work though as Molly-Mae jetted off on her sixth holiday of the year – once again to Dubai. She and Tommy travelled business class to one of the most luxurious hotels in the UAE, the five-star Jumeirah Al Naseem, where rooms cost a whopping £13,897 per night. The hotel has its own private 2km beach, a turtle rehabilitation sanctuary and an infinity pool – which the couple were pictured canoodling in. If that wasn't enough time away from home, that month Molly-Mae also visited private members' club Soho Farmhouse in the Cotswolds. She's not the first celebrity to be drawn to the £500-a-night retreat, with the Beckhams, the Duke and Duchess of Sussex, and Taylor Swift also fans. Molly-Mae treated herself to a couple of nights in one of the cabins, where members can enjoy spa facilities, country bike rides and tennis. For her final trip in May, she flew on a private jet to Disneyland Paris to celebrate her 26th birthday alongside Tommy, their daughter and some of her best friends. She shared pictures from inside the jet alongside photos complete with birthday cake, balloons and plenty of Minnie Mouse ears. Come June, Molly-Mae told her YouTube followers she was jetting off yet again. First to Germany for two nights for a 'secret project' and then on to the South of France to shoot the summer campaign for her clothing brand Maebe. Basking in the sunshine at a luxury villa in St Tropez, the influencer shared various snaps of herself lounging on sunbeds and dining at luxury restaurants. Later that month, Molly-Mae was whisked back to the Cotswolds for a 'surprise staycation'. This time, she and Tommy stayed at the lavish £700-a-night hotel Estelle Manor which has a swimming pool, four restaurants, spa and farm on site. Basking in the sunshine at a luxury villa in St Tropez, the influencer shared various snaps of herself lounging on sunbeds and dining at luxury restaurants On her Instagram stories she showed off the plush accommodation as well as swimming in the pool with daughter Bambi. July didn't see Molly-Mae slow down either, as a trip to London beckoned. After a day shopping with friends and staying at the luxury Corinthia hotel in London, she attended Wimbledon as a guest of Evian water. On Sunday, she gave a tearful defence of her comments in a separate video. She told followers: 'I don't care who tells me I am out of touch with reality or all this stuff that's going on on TikTok at the minute... I don't care. I'm not going to not talk about it.'

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