Hainan Chicken Rice Might Just Be My Favorite Chicken Dish
I have several gotta-cook-'em-all dishes, and they're all chicken-and-rice-based: chicken adobo, Japanese-style chicken curry and, my current muse, Hainan chicken rice. Unlike adobo or curry, which essentially simmer away after a meager amount of prep, Hainan chicken rice can involve a lot of steps. None of them are difficult, but they can eat up an afternoon, making it the perfect thing for a winter weekend.
The yield is fantastic: perfect, succulent chicken that's had an aromatic soak with ginger, scallions and garlic; soothing chicken soup; rice that's been cooked in some of said soup with pandan leaves; and a sparkly ginger-scallion sauce. Hainan chicken rice is maybe my favorite chicken dish — nourishing but not heavy, comforting but not cloying. And the elements branch out into helpful leftovers. The rice becomes fried rice, of course; the chicken goes into any number of applications; the soup is stock for stew (or curry!); and the ginger-scallion sauce is tossed with noodles for a stellar lunch.
All of which is to say: I'm very excited to add Kevin Pang's recipe to my collection.
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Before we move on, I want to call out Genevieve Ko's ginger scallion chicken and rice and Sue Li's chicken and rice with scallion-ginger sauce as excellent Hainan chicken rice shortcuts. They both feature gently cooked chicken with fragrant rice and a ginger-scallion situation, but with total cook times that wouldn't feel insane on a Wednesday.
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While mimikaware evolved and in the Heian period became hashi oki for aristocrats and the imperial family, this sensibility lived on as chopstick rests arrived at dining tables for the general public during the Meiji period with the introduction of western-style communal dining to Japan. Today, when Japanese people say 'itadakimasu' before a meal and lift their chopsticks from their hashi oki, they invoke a piece of this history, breaking a symbolic barrier with the impure to consume a sacred gift from the divine: food. It's this ethos — that dining and table settings are deeply intentional acts, loaded with history, meaning, and, yes, beauty — that Chen inherited from her mother, and one that she hopes to impart to diners looking to shape their own tablescapes with hashi oki, whether it's found online or at tableware stores across Japan. 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There are the countless variations of ceramic hashi okis that they've found in stores across the Japanese countryside on summer family trips. And then, there are the hashi okis that started it all: the ones that Chen grew up setting on the table for her mother and carried with her halfway across the world in suitcases to the United States, where they now sit in her kitchen drawer, reminding her of how far she's come. Dining In With Eater at Home Highlighting the people, products, and trends inspiring how we cook now Email (required) Sign Up By submitting your email, you agree to our Terms and Privacy Notice . This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
