
Driving a Famed Highway to Learn Why It's Always Broken
A couple of summers ago, I had friends visiting California, and I wanted to show them what many people who come to the state hope to see: the coast.
We were making our way from Los Angeles to Northern California, and had planned to take the Pacific Coast Highway, which clings to the edge of the continent for hundreds of miles. But I found myself on Google Maps, trying to reroute us around a closure. Whatever I tried, it seemed we would have to backtrack.
Instead, we took a largely inland route through vast plains and farmland.
The Pacific Coast Highway (which is technically called California State Route 1, but is often referred to as the PCH or Highway 1) has always been troubled. Parts of the road, built more than a century ago on steep and unstable terrain, are prone to landslides. Other parts are at risk of collapsing into the sea.
But over the past few years, frequent slides, erosion and fires have shut down sections of the route so many times that there has scarcely been a time when the whole stretch was open.
I kept wondering about the famed highway: Why were parts of it almost always closed? Was climate change making the problems worse? And would California keep fixing it? I began talking to experts. Several months later, the Palisades fire shut another section in Malibu.
In early May, the photographer Mark Abramson and I set off on a four-day road trip along one of the best-known stretches of the highway, between Los Angeles and San Francisco. We wanted to meet those who live, work and rely on the road that always keeps breaking, as well as those tasked with repairing it.
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