The Key to Copenhagen's Thriving Pastry Scene? The Historic Bakers' Guild

Vogue

4 days ago

After the strike concluded, Danish bakers merged these newly introduced Viennoiserie techniques with local ingredients, flavors, and fillings, taking the first steps towards creating the world-famous pastries of today. (In homage to the influence of their Austrian culinary counterparts, the wienerbrød, or aptly named 'Vienna bread,' remains a popular staple across Danish bakeries.) And the guild's legacy and influence is still evident today, acting as a coordinating body marking Danish royal celebrations and as a framework for this new wave of illustrious bakeries.
While the Copenhagen Bakers' Guild has historically wielded immense power, culinary innovation now works hand-in-hand with these revered traditions. And few Copenhagen bakeries are as design-forward, yet accessible, as Hart Bageri. With his background working at the legendary San Francisco bakery Tartine—and with backing from Noma, the Copenhagen institution that has frequently named the world's top restaurant—Richard Hart opened his namesake bakery in 2018, with a philosophy of honoring the rules of baking while simultaneously reinventing them. Accompanying Richard at the helm was, and still is, Talia Richard-Carvajal—Hart's creative director and COO.
The entrance to Hart Bageri.
Photo: Carinne Geil Botta
Pastries at Hart Bageri.
Photo: Christina Hedegaard
As I spoke to Talia, one thing became abundantly clear: to her, inspiration is everywhere. It's found in the Noma greenhouses used for R&D as they were preparing for the bakery's opening. It's found in Hay, the prominent Danish furniture company that influenced the aesthetic and design of Hart's shops and unique branding. And it continues to be enjoyed in their cardamom croissants and strawberry tarts, two popular pastries that feature a signature Hart twist.
'We very much feel like a modern Copenhagen brand,' Talia explains. 'But Denmark is somewhere that has such a strong baking tradition.' Respecting it and celebrating it is a non-negotiable. It's evident in Hart's classic pastries, staples of a traditional Danish pastry shop, the holiday-inspired seasonal creations, and even in the reverent way Talia talks about baking. She emphasizes, 'Through playing around with the mechanics, we're striving to create elevated versions without changing what is fundamentally right.'
The guild's legacy of culinary evolution extends beyond the pastry shop walls, further influencing Copenhagen's broader food culture. Claus Meyer, co-founder of Noma and creator of New Nordic Cuisine, a groundbreaking, global culinary movement, opened Meyers Bageri in 2010 with a mission to highlight the best sourcing and ingredients found locally in the Nordic region. 'We've teamed up with an organic farm just across the bridge,' says Jonas Astrup, head of development and innovation at Meyers. 'Meyers works solely with organic flours and produce, and with that comes the awareness of how we produce and the potential of the raw ingredients in our region.'
Dough being prepared at Meyers Bageri.
Photo: Chris Tonnesen
A pull-apart bread from Meyers Bageri.
Photo: Chris Tonnesen
But innovation and success in the kitchen thrive best when a loyal community is present. 'We were handing away the recipes for free, trying to spark enthusiasm, a movement,' he explained. 'To us, there's equal enjoyment if people have success making their own breads at home. Here's some free sourdough; you can buy a bit of flour from us.'