‘I was ordered to demolish my brand-new £85k extension under Britain's broken planning system'
When Steve Farmiloe needed more space in his Edwardian end-of-terrace house in the Withington suburb of Manchester, he looked upwards. There wasn't much room to extend at the back into the garden, but there was a huge volume of wasted space in the loft.
'Moving house is too difficult these days, and I already had a small loft room, but it was small, dark, freezing cold, and the roof was leaking,' he says. 'Since it needed renovating anyway, I decided to build out.'
The job was ambitious, but he thought he could do it quickly, and without needing full planning permission. But this was almost an £85,000 mistake.
Farmiloe took advice from two firms which both recommended the construction of an L-shaped dormer over the main roof and the outrigger. They confirmed that it would be permitted development, meaning that planning permission was not required.
The company he chose for the project applied to the council for a lawful development certificate, a type of application seeking confirmation that the permitted development rules are met.
The Government insists that planning decisions be made within eight weeks, so the builders were booked in for two months after submission – Farmiloe was confident that the project would be waved through.
When the decision was finally issued five months later, the extension was almost finished.
But to Farmiloe's horror, Manchester City Council had refused the application, on the obscure grounds that the dormer's size meant it should be considered an upwards extension rather than a roof enlargement. It meant that the whole structure therefore fell outside of permitted development rights for roof works.
He now faced the prospect of demolishing an extension that had cost him £85,000, as well as several long months of dust and disruption. He applied for retrospective planning application – which was refused – and then, with my help, submitted an appeal.
After a year of sleepless nights (albeit in a comfortable new bedroom in the newly converted loft), the Government's planning inspector granted permission at appeal. It reached the common-sense conclusion that the extension was very close to being permitted development, whatever the technicalities, and several of his neighbours had built very similar extensions.
'The system is just not fit for purpose,' says Farmiloe. 'What is the point in allowing homeowners to extend without needing a planning application, if those rules are open to interpretation and acting on them is a throw of the dice?'
'A lay person can't possibly be expected to navigate the ins and outs of the system on their own, and even the experts I spoke to all gave me different advice,' he adds.
'I am a sceptic by nature and checked the rules online when the loft conversion company told me the works were permitted development, and it looked to me that we met the requirements.
'And if you make an innocent mistake, there is no humanity at all in the system. When the council refused our first application, I asked the case officer for a call to discuss what had happened and he said he did not think a call would serve any useful purpose.'
A Manchester City Council spokesman said: 'It's important that anyone considering a project of any size contact their planning authority first and before starting any work to a property...third-party advice may not always be correct.'
They added: 'This includes waiting for a formal response to a Certificate of Lawful Development submission, which confirms whether or not a full planning application is required, before assuming a development can go ahead under permitted development rights.'
There is no doubt that a sizeable minority act deliberately to build without permission in the hope or expectation that they will never get caught.
Planning application fees are due to be doubled, and even ministers have conceded that this could spark a rise in illegal house extensions. Many argue that planning enforcement is toothless.
But not all planning breaches are made by criminal landlords or dodgy developers. I represent hundreds of clients every year facing enforcement action – what of those, like Farmiloe, who make an innocent mistake and face the prospect of demolishing part of their home?
It offends our sense of fair play that chancers should do something without permission and get away with it, while the rest of us grapple with a system that is on its knees.
In truth, lots of people break the rules and get away with it. That is partly because building something without planning permission is a legitimate planning strategy.
A breach of planning is not, in itself, an offence. If you choose to take the risk, you have done nothing wrong. An offence is only committed if the council finds out about it, serves an enforcement notice against it and you fail to comply with the notice.
The local council finding out about it depends on your neighbours – most enforcement investigations are triggered by complaints. If your neighbours are happy, a breach is unlikely to be discovered.
And whether a neighbour complaint then leads to the service of an enforcement notice is something of a lottery – it depends on the culture within the planning department (some are more aggressive than others), resource pressures (almost all enforcement departments are understaffed), how loudly and persistently neighbours are complaining, and whether elected councillors have shown an interest in the case.
Some severe breaches go unpunished, other minor breaches are pursued more vigorously.
When a council investigates a breach and decides that it is harmless, that it would probably be granted permission or that further action is not in the public interest, the case will simply be closed. The landowner will 'get away' with the breach, but only in the sense that the council is exercising its discretion to take no action.
The problem is that councils may be closing some cases simply because they don't have the resources to do anything about them. Planning departments have no money – real terms spending has fallen by almost 60pc since 2010.
Enforcement action by local authorities has also fallen – the number of enforcement notices issued in England in 2023-24 (3,993) was 21pc lower than the number issued in 2015-16 (5,025).
In November 2022, the Royal Town Planning Institute (RTPI) carried out a survey of 103 local authorities and reported a crisis in planning enforcement, with 'unmanageable workloads and insufficient staff, leading to an inability to meet public demand'. Some 90pc of councils reported an enforcement backlog; the RTPI says that the system is falling apart.
Since enforcement is a discretionary power, it is a service that is easier to cut when resources are tight. There is anecdotal evidence of some London boroughs pursuing only the most egregious cases.
If they don't act quickly, they lose the ability to act at all – a planning breach becomes lawful after four or 10 years (it varies depending on the circumstances). Some people who break the rules simply keep their heads down and hold tight, hoping to run out the clock.
Some local authorities are fighting on. London Borough of Brent issues more enforcement notices than almost any council in England (it issued 134 in the year to September 2024 placing it second on the leader board, whereas 29 authorities issued none at all).
It takes direct action against a dozen or so developments a year (sending the diggers in itself when people refuse to comply with a notice to demolish).
It also uses powers it has gained under the Proceeds of Crime Act to seize unlawful profits from landlords and developers and use them to help fund its operations, covering the cost of a couple of extra investigating officers in the planning enforcement team.
Nevertheless, the council says that the team has relentlessly high workloads, with each case officer balancing around 250 cases under investigation.
Brent describes its enforcement policy as 'firm but fair', which probably encapsulates what most of us expect from the system as a whole. It must have some bite, to discourage unauthorised development and to deal with the most egregious cases, but also some compassion for those who make genuine mistakes.
As Steve Farmiloe found out, you can try and do everything right and still find yourself in deep trouble. Readers, it could be you!
Martin Gaine is a chartered town planner and founder of Just Planning (just-planning.co.uk).
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Vintage Pearl Necklace: Your Guide to Timeless Elegance
Pearls whisper stories of elegance from eras past, a timeless symbol of grace. A vintage pearl necklace is more than just jewelry; it is a wearable piece of history. Generally, these are necklaces over 20 years old, featuring either natural or, more commonly, cultured pearls. Their value lies not just in the pearls themselves but in the unique craftsmanship, historical context, and character they've acquired over time, setting them apart from modern counterparts. So, you've inherited Grandma's pearls or found a stunning strand at an antique shop. You know it's old, but what's the real story behind the 'vintage' label? It's a term that gets tossed around quite a bit, but for connoisseurs and collectors, it has a specific and meaningful definition. It's about more than just a number; it's about stepping into a time capsule and wearing a piece of a bygone era. The allure of a vintage pearl necklace is deeply rooted in its age, the story it tells, and the hands that crafted it. It's a whisper from the past, a tangible connection to the fashion, technology, and culture of its time. Understanding this distinction is the first step in truly appreciating the treasure you hold. At its most basic level, the world of collectibles generally follows a set of age-based guidelines. While not set in stone, they provide a fantastic framework for understanding what you're looking at. For a piece to be considered 'vintage,' it typically needs to be at least 20 to 25 years old, but less than 100. This places most vintage pieces firmly within the 20th century. Think of the roaring twenties, the glamorous fifties, or the bold eighties—each decade left an indelible mark on jewelry design. A pearl necklace from the 1980s, with its bolder clasps and perhaps larger pearls, is just as vintage as a delicate, hand-knotted strand from the 1950s. They are simply snapshots of different moments in time, reflecting the aesthetics and sensibilities of their respective decades. It's a common point of confusion, but the distinction between 'vintage' and 'antique' is quite important, especially when it comes to value and rarity. The magic number is 100. Once a piece of jewelry crosses the century mark, it graduates from vintage to antique. An antique pearl necklace, therefore, would date back to 1925 or earlier. This puts you in the realm of the Edwardian, Victorian, or even Georgian eras. These pieces are significantly rarer and often tell a much older story. While a vintage necklace from the 1960s evokes the style of Jackie Kennedy, an antique Victorian piece might have been worn as mourning jewelry or been part of a grand debutante's ball. Both are precious and historical, but the 'antique' designation signifies a higher level of rarity and a deeper dive into the annals of history. Simply being old doesn't automatically make a necklace special. What truly elevates a vintage pearl necklace is how it embodies the spirit of its time. It's a physical artifact of a specific design movement, a cultural moment, or a technological innovation in pearl cultivation or jewelry making. A true vintage piece isn't just from an era; it is the era. When you hold it, you can almost feel the zeitgeist of the time it was created. This 'essence' is what collectors and fashion lovers hunt for. It's the difference between a simple, dateless strand of pearls and one that screams Art Deco or Mid-Century Modern. It's the unique character that simply cannot be replicated by a modern machine. Before the age of mass production and laser precision, jewelry was made with a different kind of artistry. The clasps on vintage pearl necklaces are a fantastic place to start your investigation. You might find intricate filigree work in white gold from the Art Deco period, or a beautifully simple but sturdy fishhook clasp from the 1940s. The metals used—platinum, white gold, yellow gold, even sterling silver—and the maker's marks or hallmarks stamped onto the clasp can tell you a huge amount about its origin and quality. Furthermore, the way the pearls are knotted can be a clue. The traditional method of placing a tiny, tight silk knot between each pearl not only protects them from rubbing against each other but is also a sign of quality craftsmanship that was more common in older, high-end pieces. These details are the soul of the necklace. Pearls have never gone out of style, but the way they've been worn has changed dramatically through the decades. Each era has put its own unique spin on the classic pearl strand, creating a rich tapestry of designs for collectors to explore. Taking a tour through these iconic periods is like walking through a museum of fashion history, where each necklace tells a story about the women who wore them and the world they lived in. From the sombre elegance of Queen Victoria's court to the rebellious spirit of the Jazz Age flapper, pearls have been there, adapting and transforming. Let's unfurl these strands of history and see how the humble pearl became a chameleon of style. The Victorian era, ruled by the long reign of Queen Victoria, was a time of immense social change, industrial revolution, and… incredibly complex fashion rules. Jewelry was deeply symbolic, and pearls were at the heart of it. They represented purity, innocence, and gentility, making them a popular choice for young women and brides. But their role was much more nuanced than that. Following the death of her beloved Prince Albert, Queen Victoria entered a long period of mourning, popularizing 'mourning jewelry.' This wasn't just about wearing black; it was a whole aesthetic. Pearls, with their soft, subdued lustre, were one of the few gems considered appropriate for this sombre attire, often set alongside jet, onyx, or black enamel. The use of pearls in mourning jewelry was a testament to their versatility. They could convey sorrow and remembrance just as easily as they could joy and celebration. But the Victorians were also masters of intricacy. This era saw the rise of incredibly detailed work using 'seed pearls'—tiny, often misshapen natural pearls that were painstakingly sewn onto mother-of-pearl backings or woven into elaborate, lace-like designs. You might find brooches, pendants, and multi-strand chokers featuring these tiny gems, often arranged in floral or sentimental motifs like hearts, anchors (for hope), and snakes (for eternal love). Finding an intact piece of Victorian seed pearl work is a true treat, as it showcases a level of patience and artistry that is rarely seen today. It was delicate, deeply personal, and utterly Victorian. As the strictures of the Victorian era began to loosen, a new aesthetic emerged. The Art Nouveau movement was a rebellion against the rigid, industrial forms of the past. It celebrated nature, sensuality, and flowing, organic lines. Think Alphonse Mucha posters and Hector Guimard's metro entrances in Paris. This philosophy carried over into jewelry design, resulting in some of the most beautiful and whimsical pieces ever created. The subsequent Edwardian era, sometimes called the 'Belle Époque,' refined this look with a new level of aristocratic grace. It was a time of opulent parties and lavish wealth, and the jewelry reflected this with a light, airy, and incredibly feminine touch. In Art Nouveau jewelry, pearls were often used to represent dewdrops, flower buds, or the luminous bodies of insects like dragonflies. They were rarely the sole star but were incorporated into flowing, asymmetrical designs crafted from enamel and gold. The Edwardian era took this delicacy to a new level. Platinum became the metal of choice, allowing for incredibly fine, lace-like settings known as 'garland' style. Pearls were combined with diamonds in light, ethereal designs. A signature necklace of this period was the 'lavallière,' a type of pendant necklace with two asymmetrical drops, often featuring a pearl. Another popular style was the 'dog collar' or 'collier de chien,' a multi-strand pearl choker, sometimes supported by platinum or diamond bars, famously worn by Queen Alexandra. These pieces are the epitome of elegance and refined luxury. Get ready to roar! The Art Deco period was a seismic shift away from the soft, flowing lines of the preceding eras. Fueled by the energy of the Jazz Age, innovations in technology, and a fascination with 'exotic' cultures from Egypt to East Asia, Art Deco was all about bold geometry, sharp lines, and unapologetic glamour. It was the era of the flapper, the speakeasy, and newfound social freedoms for women. Fashion became looser and more streamlined, with dropped waists and shorter hemlines that demanded a new style of jewelry to match. Pearls were more popular than ever, but they were worn with a completely new attitude. The quintessential Art Deco pearl necklace is the 'sautoir'—an incredibly long strand, or rope, of pearls that often hung down past the waist. These necklaces were perfect for the dynamic, dance-focused lifestyle of the flapper. They could be worn long, looped multiple times around the neck, or even knotted at the chest or slung dramatically over the shoulder. The length accentuated the new, linear silhouette of the dresses. Sometimes, these long ropes terminated in an elaborate tassel of smaller pearls or a geometric pendant. Coco Chanel was instrumental in popularizing these long pearl strands, mixing fine and costume pearls with abandon and making them a staple of the modern woman's wardrobe. An authentic Art Deco sautoir is a truly iconic piece that captures the rebellious, exuberant spirit of the 1920s. After the austerity of World War II, the world was ready for a return to glamour, and the Mid-Century period delivered in spades. The 1950s, in particular, were a golden age for pearls. Thanks to post-war prosperity and the perfection of the pearl cultivation process by innovators like Kokichi Mikimoto, high-quality cultured pearls became more accessible than ever before. They were no longer just for the super-rich; the average woman could now own a beautiful strand. Pearls became the go-to accessory for the idealized post-war woman, symbolizing domestic elegance, sophistication, and timeless style. They were the uniform of screen sirens and suburban housewives alike. Hollywood was the ultimate trendsetter, and stars like Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn, and Elizabeth Taylor were rarely seen without their pearls. Audrey Hepburn's multi-strand masterpiece in Breakfast at Tiffany's and Grace Kelly's classic single strand defined elegance for a generation. The most popular style was the single or double-strand choker or princess-length necklace, worn with everything from a sweater set to a cocktail dress. Clasps became a feature in their own right, often more ornate and set with small diamonds or other gems. This era cemented the cultured pearl necklace as a 'must-have' classic in every woman's jewelry box. A vintage Mid-Century necklace from a reputable brand like Mikimoto is a fantastic find, representing the pinnacle of cultured pearl quality and timeless, wearable design. So, you're holding a potentially vintage pearl necklace. It feels special, it looks beautiful, but the big question looms: is it the real deal? Becoming a pearl detective is part of the fun of collecting. Authenticating a vintage piece is a multi-step process that involves looking beyond the initial sparkle and examining the tiny details that tell the necklace's true story. It's about using your senses—touch, sight, and even sound—to uncover clues hidden in the pearls, the clasp, and the string. You don't need to be a certified gemologist to perform these initial checks, which can help you distinguish a genuine heirloom from a convincing imitation. Let's put on our detective hats and start the investigation. The pearls are, of course, the main event. Their individual characteristics are your most important clues. Real pearls, whether natural or cultured, are organic gems. They are formed by a living creature, and just like other natural creations, they are rarely perfect. This imperfection is actually a hallmark of their authenticity. Mass-produced fakes, made of glass or plastic, are often too perfect. Their uniformity is a dead giveaway. Your first step is to get up close and personal with each pearl on the strand. Look at them in natural light, feel them, and observe their unique personalities. The secrets they hold are waiting to be discovered. This is the most famous (and oddly effective) trick in the book. Gently take a pearl and run it along the biting edge of your front teeth. Don't bite down! A real pearl will feel slightly gritty or sandy. This is due to the crystalline structure of the nacre, the substance that forms the pearl. A fake pearl, made of glass or plastic, will feel perfectly smooth and slippery against your tooth. Another simple test is the temperature test. Real pearls are organic and will feel cool to the touch for the first few seconds before they warm up against your skin. Plastic fakes will be room temperature right away, and glass fakes might feel cool initially but often have a heavier, more 'solid' feel than real pearls, which have a surprising heft but don't feel as dense as solid glass. Luster is the magic ingredient. It's the deep, inner glow that seems to emanate from within the pearl, not just a surface shine. High-quality pearls have a sharp luster, where you can see your reflection clearly on the surface. Lower-quality or imitation pearls will have a dull, chalky, or overly glassy appearance. Next, look for tiny imperfections. Since pearls are natural gems, they will almost always have small blemishes, pits, or variations in their surface. These are called 'character marks' and are a sign of authenticity. A strand where every single pearl is flawlessly identical in shape, size, and surface is highly suspect and likely man-made. Finally, look at the drill holes. On a real pearl, the drill hole will likely have a sharp, clean edge. On fakes, the coating around the drill hole may be chipped, flaked, or look like it's peeling away, revealing the glass or plastic bead underneath. While the pearls are the stars, the supporting cast—the clasp, the end tips, and any metal spacers—can often tell you more about the necklace's age and quality than the pearls themselves. The clasp is like the necklace's birth certificate. It can reveal the era it was made, the quality of the materials, and sometimes even the identity of the maker. Jewelers of the past took great pride in their work, and the finishing touches were never an afterthought. A high-quality strand of pearls would have been fitted with an equally high-quality clasp. Ignoring the clasp is like reading a book but skipping the author's name and publication date. Turn the clasp over and look for tiny stamped marks. These are called hallmarks. You might see '14K,' '18K,' or '750' (for 14-karat and 18-karat gold, respectively), 'PLAT' (for platinum), or 'Sterling' or '925' (for sterling silver). The presence of these marks indicates the use of precious metals, a strong sign that the pearls themselves are likely genuine. You might also find a maker's mark or logo, which you can then research to identify the jeweler. The style of the clasp is another huge clue. An intricate, rectangular filigree clasp often points to the Art Deco period. A simple but elegant fishhook clasp was common in the mid-20th century. A spring ring clasp is common, but often found on lower-end or more modern pieces. The craftsmanship of the clasp should match the quality of the pearls. How a necklace is held together is a crucial aspect of its construction and a key indicator of its quality and age. You might not think much about the string, but for pearl experts, it's a vital clue. The traditional and most desirable method for stringing a fine pearl necklace is to knot it professionally. This isn't just for show; it serves two very important practical purposes. Understanding why this detail matters can help you assess the care and quality that went into creating the piece and gives you another layer of evidence in your authentication process. It's a subtle detail that speaks volumes about the necklace's pedigree. First, the knots protect the pearls. By placing a small, tight knot between each pearl, the stringer ensures that the pearls cannot rub against each other. This prevents the delicate nacre from getting worn down or chipped over time. Second, and perhaps more importantly, the knots provide security. If the necklace were to break, you would only lose one pearl, not have the entire strand scatter across the floor. On a vintage piece, you'll typically find that silk thread was the material of choice for stringing. Over time, this silk can stretch and may appear slightly discolored. This is a normal sign of age. If you see a necklace strung on what looks like modern nylon or fishing line, it has likely been restrung recently. While restringing is a normal part of maintenance (and is highly recommended for older pieces you intend to wear), the presence of old, knotted silk thread is a good sign of originality. The world of pearls is beautifully diverse. When you're looking at vintage pieces, you're encountering a historical snapshot of the pearl industry. The types of pearls available, and their prevalence, have changed over time. Early antique pieces might feature the incredibly rare and valuable natural pearl, while mid-century necklaces almost exclusively showcase the cultured pearl, a testament to a revolutionary innovation. Understanding the different types of pearls and how they relate to different eras is key to appreciating the context and value of your vintage necklace. It helps you understand what you have, why it's special, and where it fits in the grand timeline of this beloved gem. This is the most fundamental distinction in the pearl world, and it has a huge impact on rarity and value. For centuries, the only pearls available were natural pearls. These are formed entirely by chance when an irritant, like a grain of sand or a tiny parasite, naturally lodges itself inside a mollusk (an oyster or mussel). The mollusk, as a defense mechanism, begins to secrete layers of nacre around the intruder. It can take many years to form a pearl of any significant size, and finding one that is perfectly round and lustrous is incredibly rare. This is why, for most of history, pearls were reserved for royalty and the extremely wealthy. The game changed completely in the early 20th century when the cultured pearl was invented in Japan. This process involves a human technician carefully inserting a mother-of-pearl bead nucleus and a piece of mantle tissue into the mollusk. This kick-starts the nacre-secreting process. While the oyster still does all the work of creating the pearl, the process is initiated by humans, allowing for the 'farming' of pearls on a large scale. Because the process for creating cultured pearls wasn't commercialized until the 1920s, any pearl necklace that can be definitively dated to before this time (i.e., from the Victorian or Edwardian eras) is highly likely to contain natural pearls. This makes them exceptionally rare and valuable. Distinguishing between a natural and a cultured pearl with the open eye is nearly impossible for a layperson and often requires X-ray examination by a gemological lab. The X-ray can reveal the internal structure—a natural pearl will show concentric growth rings, like an onion, while a cultured pearl will show a solid bead nucleus at its center. If you suspect you have a pre-1920s antique necklace, getting it appraised by a certified gemologist is essential. For most vintage necklaces from the Art Deco period onward, you can assume you are looking at cultured pearls, which are still beautiful and valuable in their own right. For more in-depth information on pearl formation, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) offers extensive resources. Even within the world of cultured pearls, there's a beautiful variety, each with its own origin story and unique characteristics. The type of pearl can sometimes offer clues about the necklace's era and original value. While many different mollusks produce pearls, a few key types dominate the vintage market, each making their debut on the world stage at different times. Knowing these names helps you speak the language of pearls and understand the subtle differences that make each strand unique. From the classic white round to the exotic black, each type has its own allure. Akoya pearls are the classic, original cultured pearl from Japan. These are the pearls that made Mikimoto famous. They are known for being perfectly round and having a sharp, mirror-like luster. Their colors are typically white or cream, often with overtones of rose or silver. When you picture the classic 1950s single-strand necklace, you are almost certainly picturing Akoya pearls. They have been the standard for classic pearl jewelry since the 1920s. South Sea pearls, which come from the waters around Australia, Indonesia, and the Philippines, are the largest and often most valuable type of cultured pearl. They can be white, silvery, or have a beautiful golden hue. Because the technology to culture them was perfected later, they became more prominent in jewelry from the latter half of the 20th century. A vintage necklace with large, golden South Sea pearls would be a very luxurious and high-end piece. Tahitian pearls, often called 'black pearls,' are from French Polynesia. They are famous for their naturally dark colors, which range from metallic silver and charcoal grey to peacock green and deep aubergine. They came to prominence in the 1970s and 80s, so a vintage strand of Tahitian pearls would likely date to this bold and glamorous era. Wearing a vintage pearl necklace isn't about creating a historical costume; it's about incorporating a piece of timeless elegance into your modern wardrobe. The beauty of pearls is their incredible versatility. They can be preppy, edgy, classic, or bohemian, all depending on how you style them. Forget the old rules that confined pearls to twinsets and formal events. Today, it's all about juxtaposition—mixing the old with the new, the refined with the relaxed. A vintage pearl necklace is your secret weapon for adding a touch of unexpected polish and personality to any outfit. It's a statement that you appreciate history, quality, and enduring style. One of the best things about a vintage pearl necklace is its ability to transition seamlessly between different settings. It possesses a unique power to elevate a simple outfit or add a touch of classic grace to a power suit. The key is to think of the pearls not as a 'special occasion' item but as a foundational piece of your accessory wardrobe, just like a great watch or a simple pair of gold hoops. It's about making the pearls work for your life, not saving them for a life you don't live. With a little creativity, that heirloom strand can become one of your most-worn and most-loved pieces of jewelry. For a professional, office-ready look, a classic single-strand princess-length (16-18 inches) necklace is impeccable. It sits perfectly at the collarbone and adds a polished finish to a crisp button-down shirt, a tailored blazer, or a simple sheath dress. It projects confidence and sophistication without being overly flashy. But what about the weekend? This is where you can have some fun. Throw that same strand of pearls on with a simple cashmere sweater and your favorite pair of jeans for an effortlessly chic brunch look. The contrast between the relaxed denim and the elegant pearls is modern and stylish. Don't be afraid to pair them with unexpected textures. A pearl choker looks incredibly cool peeking out from under the collar of a denim jacket or even worn over a simple black t-shirt with a leather jacket. It's this high-low mix that makes the look feel fresh and personal. Layering necklaces has been a major trend for years, and it's the perfect way to modernize your vintage pearls. The art of the 'neck mess' or 'necklace stack' is all about creating a curated collection of chains and pendants that tells a personal story. Adding your vintage pearls to this mix is a brilliant move. It adds texture, a touch of history, and a luminous focal point to your stack. It breaks up the monotony of all-metal chains and adds a soft, organic element that is both eye-catching and deeply stylish. This is your chance to get creative and express your unique personality through your jewelry. The secret to a great necklace stack is variation. Start with your vintage pearl necklace as the base. If it's a choker length, it will be your top layer. If it's a longer princess or matinee length, it can be your middle or bottom layer. Now, add other chains. Don't be afraid to mix your metals! The old rule about not mixing gold and silver is long gone. A strand of creamy pearls looks stunning alongside both warm yellow gold and cool sterling silver. Add a delicate gold chain with a small pendant and a slightly chunkier silver chain. Vary the lengths so that each necklace has its own space to shine. You can even mix eras. Pair your 1950s pearls with a modern geometric pendant and a delicate Victorian-era chain. This eclectic mix looks curated and intentional, showcasing your confidence and flair for style. Owning a vintage pearl necklace is a privilege, and with that privilege comes the responsibility of proper care. Pearls are organic gems, which means they are softer and more delicate than diamonds or sapphires. They are vulnerable to chemicals, heat, and abrasion. But don't let that intimidate you! With a few simple habits and a little bit of knowledge, you can ensure that your heirloom pearls remain beautiful and lustrous for generations to come. Proper care is the best way to honor the history of your necklace and preserve its value and beauty. Think of it as a simple ritual of respect for a timeless treasure. This is the single most important rule in pearl care. It's a simple mantra that should become second nature for any pearl owner: your pearls should be the last thing you put on after getting dressed and the first thing you take off at the end of the day. There's a very practical reason for this. Pearls are highly susceptible to damage from the chemicals found in everyday products. Adhering to this rule is the easiest and most effective way to protect your necklace from harm and maintain its gorgeous, natural glow. Think about your morning routine: lotion, makeup, hairspray, perfume. All of these products contain chemicals and acids that can eat away at a pearl's nacre, causing it to become dull, discolored, and permanently damaged. Hairspray is particularly notorious for creating a sticky film that is difficult to remove and robs the pearls of their luster. Perfume, with its high alcohol content, is also a major enemy. When you spritz perfume on your neck or wrists while wearing pearls, the alcohol can dry out the nacre and cause it to become brittle and prone to cracking. By putting your pearls on after all your cosmetics and sprays have been applied and have had a moment to dry, you create a barrier and minimize their exposure to these harmful substances. Taking them off first thing prevents them from getting snagged on clothing and avoids prolonged contact with your skin's natural oils and perspiration, which are also slightly acidic. Beyond the daily 'last on, first off' rule, a regular maintenance routine will keep your pearls in pristine condition. This involves gentle cleaning after each wear, proper storage to prevent scratches, and periodic restringing to ensure their security. These simple steps don't take much time but they make a world of difference in the long-term health and beauty of your vintage necklace. It's a small investment of effort that pays huge dividends in preserving your precious piece of history. Cleaning: After you take off your necklace, gently wipe the pearls with a soft, lint-free cloth, like a microfiber or chamois cloth. This removes any traces of skin oils or cosmetics. If they need a more thorough cleaning, you can dampen the cloth with lukewarm water and a tiny drop of mild, non-detergent soap (like a pure Castile soap). Wipe each pearl, then immediately go over them again with a cloth dampened with plain water to remove any soap residue. Finally, lay the necklace flat on a soft towel to dry completely before storing. Never, ever submerge a pearl necklace in water, as it can weaken the silk thread, and never use ultrasonic cleaners or harsh chemical jewelry cleaners. Storing: Pearls need to breathe, so don't store them in an airtight plastic bag. The best way to store your necklace is in a soft pouch made of silk, velvet, or chamois. This protects them from being scratched by other, harder gemstones in your jewelry box. Store the necklace flat to prevent the silk cord from stretching out over time. Restringing: The silk thread used to knot pearls will naturally stretch and weaken over time. You should have your vintage pearl necklace professionally restrung every few years, or sooner if you wear it frequently. A sure sign it's time for a restring is if you can see excess space between the knots and the pearls. A professional jeweler will use fresh silk thread and ensure the knots are tight and secure, protecting your investment for years to come. For more historical context on pearl jewelry, the Wikipedia article on the Art Deco movement provides great insight into the era that revolutionized how pearls were worn. The hunt for the perfect vintage pearl necklace is a thrilling adventure. It's a search that can take you from the dusty corners of a local antique shop to the curated digital aisles of online specialists. Each venue offers a different experience and a unique selection. The key to a successful hunt is knowing where to look, what questions to ask, and how to spot a treasure. Whether you're a seasoned collector or a first-time buyer, the journey to finding 'the one' is part of the story that you will eventually pass down with the necklace itself. Your options for finding a vintage pearl necklace are vast and varied. Antique Shops are a classic starting point. You have the advantage of seeing and feeling the piece in person, and shop owners are often passionate experts who can share the known history of the necklace. Estate Sales can be a treasure trove, offering pieces directly from a person's private collection. This can often mean better prices, but you'll need a good eye as items are typically sold 'as-is.' Online Marketplaces like Etsy, Ruby Lane, or 1stDibs offer a massive selection from dealers all over the world. This is fantastic for finding specific styles, but you must be a diligent buyer. When buying, especially online, your mantra should be 'due diligence.' Always buy from reputable sellers with a long history of positive reviews. Don't be shy about asking questions. Request additional photos of the clasp, the surface of the pearls, and any hallmarks. Ask about the seller's return policy. A confident seller with a quality product will have no problem with these requests. Read the description carefully. Does it specify the type of pearl (Akoya, South Sea), the metal of the clasp (14K Gold, Platinum), and the length? Vague descriptions are a red flag. Compare prices for similar items to get a feel for the market value. Most importantly, trust your gut. If a deal seems too good to be true, it probably is. A little bit of research and caution can protect you from disappointment and ensure you end up with a piece you will cherish. While the thrill of the hunt is undeniable, we understand that you also value trust, quality, and expert curation. The search for an authentic, beautiful vintage pearl necklace can be overwhelming. That is why we have dedicated ourselves to sourcing and presenting a collection of the finest heirloom pearl jewelry. Each piece in our collection is meticulously inspected for authenticity, quality, and character. We do the detective work so you can focus on the pure joy of discovering the necklace that speaks to you. We believe that these pieces of history deserve a new chapter, and we invite you to be a part of their continuing story. Are you ready to find your own piece of timeless elegance? We invite you to explore our carefully selected collection of exquisite vintage and antique pearl necklaces. Each one is waiting to tell its story. Visit our shop today to discover your perfect heirloom: A vintage pearl necklace is so much more than an accessory. It is a tangible link to the past, a masterpiece of natural beauty and human craftsmanship, and a symbol of enduring elegance. From understanding the historical significance of different eras and identifying the subtle clues of authenticity to learning how to style and care for your treasure, the journey of owning a vintage pearl necklace is rich and rewarding. It's an investment not just in a beautiful piece of jewelry, but in a story—one that you now have the honor of continuing. Whether worn to elevate a simple daily outfit or to add the finishing touch to a momentous occasion, a vintage pearl necklace is a choice that is always classic, always sophisticated, and always in style. 1. How can I tell if my vintage pearls are real at home? The quickest and most reliable at-home method is the 'tooth test.' Gently rub a pearl against the edge of your front tooth. A real pearl (natural or cultured) will feel slightly gritty or sandy due to its nacreous layers. A fake pearl made of glass or plastic will feel perfectly smooth. 2. What's the difference between vintage and antique pearls? The primary difference is age. A 'vintage' piece is typically between 20 and 99 years old. An 'antique' piece has crossed the century mark and is 100 years old or more. Antique pearl necklaces are much rarer and often feature natural pearls if dated before the 1920s. 3. How often should I restring my vintage pearl necklace? This depends on how often you wear it. For a necklace worn frequently, restringing every one to two years is recommended. For a piece worn only on special occasions, every three to five years is a good rule of thumb. If you see visible space between the knots and the pearls, the silk has stretched, and it's time for a restring regardless of age. 4. Is it okay to wear a vintage pearl necklace every day? While you can, it's important to be mindful. Pearls are soft and susceptible to damage from chemicals and abrasion. If you do wear it daily, be extra diligent about the 'last on, first off' rule and wipe it down with a soft cloth after each wear. For a daily-wear piece, consider a more durable single-strand design over a fragile multi-strand or antique piece. 5. What era of vintage pearls is the most valuable? Generally, antique necklaces from the Edwardian or Victorian eras (pre-1920s) are the most valuable because they are more likely to contain rare natural pearls. In the vintage category, high-quality Art Deco sautoirs and signed pieces from renowned jewelers like Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, or Mikimoto from any era command the highest prices. 6. How do I clean my vintage pearls safely at home? Never use harsh chemicals or ultrasonic cleaners. The safest way is to simply wipe them with a soft, dry, or slightly damp lint-free cloth after wearing them. For a deeper clean, use a cloth dampened with lukewarm water and a drop of very mild, non-detergent soap. Wipe them again with a cloth dampened with plain water, then lay them flat on a towel to dry completely before storing. TIME BUSINESS NEWS
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Jersey trawling area limited from September 2026
More than one fifth of the island's territorial waters will be designated as marine protected areas and off limits to trawling and dredging from September 2026, the government has confirmed. Jersey politicians voted unanimously for the Marine Spatial Plan in October, which included a pledge to increase the area of protected waters from 6.5% to 23%. Marine protected areas prohibit mobile gear fishing, which includes trawling and dredging, to stop damage to habitats and species. Jersey's government said it will work with licensed fishermen in Jersey and France to support adjustment to the new rules. A timeline for implementing the plan released by the infrastructure and environment committee also shows part of Les Sauvages reef will be off limits to all fishing. Only commercially licensed vessels will be prohibited from fishing in the protected areas. Potting, netting, rod and line fishing and all recreational activities are unaffected by the changes. More news stories for Jersey Listen to the latest news for Jersey An additional 4% of territorial waters are being researched and could be added to the protected marine areas by 2030, the committee said. "This will be a seismic shift for marine management in Jersey waters, significantly changing the face of fishing," it said. "The Economic Impact Assessment will assist in understanding the livelihood impact of these changes and government will work with licensed fishermen in Jersey and France to support adjustment to the new rules." Follow BBC Jersey on X and Facebook. Send your story ideas to More on this story Jersey marine protection plan gets States backing Panel fears marine plan could destroy habitats Minister promises fishermen he will listen to fears Related internet links Government of Jersey
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15 hours ago
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'Worthless' flats where people feel stuck as mortgage companies won't touch them
Residents of a Swansea high-rise blighted by fire safety issues say they have been waiting eight years for the problems to be resolved. They claim it's left them unable to sell as mortgage providers won't lend money against the flats. Some suggest their mental health has taken a battering as a result. While some issues have been resolved, several still remain, leaving residents feeling angry, frustrated and exhausted. The residents live in the Altamar building, located in King's Road, Swansea, which was found to have various fire safety issues brought to light by surveys carried out after the Grenfell Fire. During 2017 and 2018, the building was issued an enforcement notice by Mid and West Wales Fire and Rescue Service(MWFFRS). Though the requirements of the enforcement notice were met by October, 2019, other issues still remain. READ MORE: The people left trapped in flats they can't sell because mortgage lenders won't go near them Work to fix fire safety defects at Cardiff flats to take longer than expected When WalesOnline last covered the issue in October, 2024, the developer, Bellway, told us they were 'doing everything we can to give residents the peace of mind they deserve.' Never miss a Swansea story by signing up to our newsletter here Over nine months later, residents claim no significant work has been undertaken, and are now calling on the Welsh Government to sanction Bellway. Bellway has told WalesOnline that the issues are "lengthy and complex" and have been "hampered" by ongoing legal proceedings. The Welsh Government has said it is "monitoring the works closely" and is actively engaging with developers across Wales to address fire safety issues. Geoff Spight, 81, who moved to the building in 2019, said: 'It's been going on eight years now, and it's only because I'm a strong-willed person that I'm not in a mental institution. 'It's all consuming—every day of my life. I've spent 45 hours, since the beginning of this month [July] of my own work and it's all to do mainly with fire, addressing some of the issues that we are responsible to do, not Bellway.' Geoff claimed that despite several surveys being done, there hadn't been any further work. 'It's only surveys—22 surveys we've done on this building now,' Geoff claimed. 'We paid for quite a few and we claimed back and the Welsh Government reimbursed us for quite a few of them under the new law that was passed on self-remediation of fire remediation issues.' Bellway has been a signatory of the Welsh Government's Self Remediation Terms, the Welsh Developers Pact, since May, 2023, which makes it necessary for developers to identify and remediate buildings to agreed standards. Bellway said it was thus legally bound to undertake full new surveys of developments, which have now been completed for Altamar, and have been shared with stakeholders. In addition to the fire safety issues, the building also started experiencing 'serious roof leaks', which led to the property owners spending around £600,000 on repairs. Roofing experts from Bellway have been down to evaluate the roof repairs that are still left to complete, but Geoff claimed this was the only work that had taken place since October, 2024. Due to these issues, property owners are claimed to have been stuck with their properties, unable to sell them as mortgage lenders refuse to lend money in relation to them. 'Nobody can sell, you can't get a mortgage,' Geoff claimed. 'Some of my colleagues here have to ring up their mortgage company every month because their mortgage is coming to an end and the mortgage company won't lend money on the building. 'They're worthless to the mortgage company because even if my colleagues handed the keys back to them they can't do anything with them.' We reported in October last year that Bellway carried out an FRA (Fire Risk Assessment) & FRAEW (Fire Risk Assessment of External Walls) as part of its agreement with the Welsh Government. These reports—as seen by WalesOnline— identified serious breaches. Residents claimed that though these reports were received by Bellway in March, 2024, they were not released to residents for at least five months. Geoff claimed no work had been undertaken to rectify the faults identified in the report until now. He believed issues with the building's structural steel still remained, and were noted in the 2017 enforcement notice, and the fire safety report undertaken by Bellway's expert and the Altamar residents' expert. Apart from these issues, the costs are also said to be adding up for property owners, as they claim their insurance has doubled since the Grenfell tragedy, and rose about £20,000 from last year, Geoff explained. Geoff also felt that property owners were being let down by the Welsh Government. 'They're weak,' he claimed. 'The only way out is to put sanctions on the developer, to force them. 'Even though it's a legal obligation for them to do this work, and in the pact that they signed, they're supposed to do things at certain stages in certain times, but they're just not sticking to it," he claimed. 'And the Welsh Government is so weak, they can't make them. They can't seem to get any productivity out of them.' A spokesperson for the Welsh Government said: 'We are actively engaged with all major developers in Wales on an extensive programme of work to address external and internal fire safety issues. "We are monitoring the works closely to ensure remediation is completed as quickly as possible." It is understood the Welsh government is holding regular meetings with Bellway to ensure the works progress as quickly as possible, and is also providing support to residents via phone or email. A new Building Safety (Wales) Bill was also tabled at the Senedd on July 7 this year. The bill seeks to form a new building safety regime which would cover the "occupation and ongoing management of multi-occupied residential buildings." In a written statement on the bill, Cabinet Secretary for housing, Jane Bryant said the principles of the new legislation were "safety, accountability and resident voice." When asked about Altamar and the residents' claims, a spokesperson for Bellway commented: 'Bellway has consistently taken a proactive approach to fire safety following the Grenfell fire in 2017. "We are fully committed to delivering remediation works across all of our developments as quickly as possible and have set aside over £665 million to cover the expected costs of doing this. "Delivering these works is often lengthy and complex, and in the case of Altamar, progress has been hampered by ongoing legal proceedings. We are doing everything we can to give residents the peace of mind they deserve and are in active conversations with the Welsh Government to resolve the issues at Altamar. 'Under the terms of the Self-Remediation Terms (SRT) with the Welsh Government, Bellway is legally obliged to undertake full new surveys of developments. "This has been completed for Altamar and shared with key stakeholders. "We are currently in the process of agreeing the remediation strategy with the stakeholders, and have tendered to appoint a contractor, so that work can start on site to deliver a building that fully meets the legal requirements for building safety in Wales.'
