Record 1.29 million beauty treatments in India: Call for stricter regulations amid safety concerns
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Indians submitted themselves to 1.29 million beauty and cosmetic treatments in 2024, according to the US based International Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (ISAPS), prompting some experts to call for stringent safety protocols to protect people from harm during Botox treatments and socalled vampire facelifts.The ISAPS listed procedures such as 'brow lift, dimple creation, scar revision and facial bone contouring' in its report. Non-surgical procedures such as 'injectables and facial rejuvenation' alone touched 610,000 in India, the data showed, a 7% increase over the previous year. It said the total number cited, 1.29 million, was a record for India, without giving further details. The ISAPS report noted that India ranked among the top 10 countries using aesthetic and cosmetic procedures overall.'A lot of such products and services are untracked and being sold at salons and over the counter without prescriptions, leading to serious consequences,' said Dev Bajpai, advisor, Hindustan Unilever Ltd (HUL), which makes dozens of beauty products including Lakme and Pond's.'There is an urgent need for separate regulation, to delink cosmetics from drugs, to ensure quality and consumer safety,' Bajpai said. Bajpai is a former HUL director. Cosmetics in India are regulated under the Drugs and Cosmetics Act (1940).'The problem is that the manufacturers take approval and use it for the purpose which is other than intended,' said a senior government official. 'The off label use is an issue. For example, botulinum toxin (Botox) is approved in India for therapeutic and cosmetic purposes but the way people are promoting and misleading consumers is worrisome.'Along with the proliferation of social media influencers peddling treatments and procedures, there's been an explosion in the number of people wanting to experiment with the latest trends. Beauty and cosmetic treatments have come under increased scrutiny after the death last month of actress and model Shefali Jariwala, reportedly following anti-ageing injections. A woman in Kerala is said to have lost her fingers and toes in February after a liposuction procedure.A man died in Kanpur, reportedly after a hair transplant went awry. 'As on date, there is no intravenous (IV) drip/treatment which has been approved for use by the US FDA (Food and Drug Administration) or by Indian authorities for skin health and enhancement,' said Nitin Passi, managing director of cosmetics maker Lotus Herbals, which also has strategic stakes in dermaceutical company FixDerma and clean beauty label Conscious Chemist. 'Due to growing consumer interest, there is a critical need to regulate IV services in skin clinics, salons, medi-spas and wellness centres.'In scar revision, India was ranked second after the US, according to the ISAPS report. For rhinoplasty, India was ranked second after Brazil. In liposuction, India was at five and at nine for eyelid surgery. While penalties for cosmetics violations exist, they are not a sufficient deterrent.'Weak enforcement and lenient penalties are not preventing violations and protecting public health,' said a person aware of the matter.Unlicensed and untrained personnel are administering treatments such as Botox, said Dr Smriti Naswa Singh, consultant, dermatology and cosmetology, Fortis Hospital, Mulund, Mumbai.'Botox is a muscle-paralysing agent,' she pointed out. 'If injected into the wrong muscle group, it can lead to facial asymmetry, like a drooping eyebrow or uneven smile. Under normal circumstances, when Botox is administered by a trained dermatologist, it is generally safe and effective. However, in the hands of untrained individuals, it can lead to serious consequences.'Precautions is a mustIn some cases, Botox in doses that are 20 to 30 times higher than recommended has caused botulism, which can lead to death, she said. Not following aseptic precautions can result in infections. Injectionsite issues such as hematoma, bleeding, pain and bruising can also occur, she added.By sales, the anti-ageing market in India alone grew to $2.5 billion in 2024 and is estimated to touch $4 billion by 2033, said a report by research firm IMARC. The report attributed the growth to 'consumer awareness of skincare, influence of social media, and the rising popularity of cosmetic procedures'.Passi of Lotus Herbals called for regulation and licensing of those who conduct procedures.'Any intravenous product or service needs to be approved with proven efficacy and safety backed by robust data by regulatory authorities, administered by qualified and licensed medical practitioners in a facility which is fully equipped to handle any adverse effects/complications,' he said.The vampire facelift referred to above involves injecting part of the customer's blood — platelet-rich plasma (PRP) — back into the face.While gaining popularity for skin rejuvenation and wrinkle reduction, serious complications have been reported when it goes wrong. In one such incident, PRP was injected too close to the orbital area (around the eyes) and the material accidentally entered a vein, causing blindness, Singh said.
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