I said Italy was overcrowded and overpriced. Then I went back
I could tap into the concierge's local knowledge. Places to walk without having to battle the tour groups? Yes. Recommendations for proper restaurants where Romans eat? Tick.
When I couldn't be bothered to eat out, my terrace had views of Rome and the Vatican for a panoramic picnic, with quality prosciutto and prosecco from a nearby supermarket. Upgrading your hotel and price-cutting elsewhere is sometimes wise.
Informed choices are a must in any destination that has issues of tourist overcrowding and creaking infrastructure. With a week to spare behind the wheel of a hire car after Rome, that meant avoiding Tuscany and Venice and opting for Umbria.
Umbria has its problems, too. Its roads and motorways are cracked, patched and uneven. I wasn't breezing along a country road in a red sports car beside a movie starlet. I was lurching along highways surrounded by trucks, terrified my rear wheel was going to come off in an unanticipated pothole.
And Umbria, while less visited than some parts of Italy, is hardly crowd or rip-off free. Orvieto's old town barely hangs on to its old-time shops and eateries. I got a terrible and expensive meal in Assisi. I knew it was going to be terrible, but I needed the energy boost – and somewhere to sit.
The knowing helps dampen some of the annoyance, but good planning makes for a better visit. In Assisi, the church associated with St Francis is glorious, and all I needed to see in a town subsumed by tourists.
There are places to linger in Umbria. I spent an afternoon in Todi and saw only a handful of other tourists, even though this medieval town has a hilltop location and fine architecture.
Gubbio was quiet, too, and as dense in old buildings as anywhere in Tuscany. Like Todi, it still had proper family restaurants for a fine meal, served by agreeable waiters not yet schooled in indifference.
I got over the horizon from the obvious in Umbria and my experience was better for it. Visitors should carry some blame if all they have is a bad time. That doesn't let Italy off the hook, however.
Tourism isn't about people making random, spontaneous decisions. It's a highly regulated industry in which tourist choices are controlled, directed and managed. All levels of government policies on everything from budget airlines to Airbnb and whether to facilitate Netflix filming influence where people go and what they do.
What's more, towns generally become over-touristed because they have nothing else to rely on: alternative businesses and opportunities have gone. That's why Perugia gets a big thumbs up. Its old town is superb and culture-dense, but this university and manufacturing town hasn't sold its soul to tourism.
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The Italian government is aware of the problem. In interviews, Italian tourism minister Daniela Santanche has said Italy needs to focus on better quality, sustainability and organisation, and encourage tourists to come year-round and visit Italy's smaller towns.
Wise words. But while you're waiting for Italian governments to solve problems, you might use those guidelines yourself the next time you plan a trip to Italy. It will give you a much better experience.
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News.com.au
2 days ago
- News.com.au
Greece starts charging tourist tax on cruises
Greece on Tuesday began charging a tax on island cruise ships, the latest European effort to tackle soaring visitor numbers to the continent's most popular destinations. Cruise ships docking at the popular islands of Santorini and Mykonos will pay 20 euros ($23.62) per passenger. "In accordance with the law, the tax will be applied in Santorini, Mykonos and other islands in lesser measures," a finance ministry spokesman told AFP. Cruise ships to smaller islands will pay a tax of five euros per passenger, according to the new regulations. Greece hopes to bring in up to 50 million euros a year with the tax, which will apply during the high tourism season, from June 1 to September 30. Greece adopted the legislation last year in an effort to curb soaring tourist numbers to often-overcrowded destinations, the latest country in Europe to take such measures. Italian authorities in Venice, one of the world's top tourist destinations, last year introduced payments for day visitors, who must pay an access fee of five euros ($5.90) on certain days. In Spain, the government has cracked down on illegal short-term tourist rentals, with sites like Airbnb and ordered to take down thousands of ads amid local alarm about increasingly scarce and unaffordable housing. The hugely popular island of Ibiza in June began limiting the number of incoming tourist cars and caravans because of the increasing numbers of visitors. Locals in Barcelona and elsewhere in Spain, the world's second most-visited country, have held protests against over-tourism. - Saturation point - Greece plans to use the money raised to upgrade over-strained infrastructure on the islands, including their ports, which are often too small to receive multiple cruise ships at once. Tourism, and the cruise industry in particular, is booming in Greece. Cruise ship passenger numbers surged 13.2 percent last year to 7.9 million, according to the Hellenic Ports Association, which predicts the trend will continue. Mykonos, known as a party destination for international jet-setters, received nearly 1.3 million visitors last year, up 8.4 percent from the previous year. Perched on a volcano, Santorini received more than 1.3 million passengers last year, up four percent. The island last year limited cruise ship arrivals to 8,000 passengers per day, yet on the first day of the tax, four ships with around 8,400 passengers were scheduled to dock in Santorini, according to port authority figures. Famed for its sunsets, the island is saturated with tourists in some areas, causing traffic jams, water shortages, waste management headaches and other problems. Some residents also complain about the pollution generated by the ships, while local businesses say passengers often stay just a few hours and spend little. But not everyone is happy with the new tax. The head of the local port authority, Athanasios Kousathanas-Megas, demanded on Friday that the government delay the rollout, complaining the tax creates "unfair competition" between highly taxed islands and the rest. The cruise industry has hit back at criticism, saying cruise passengers are a small minority of total tourists and generate $2 billion in revenues per year for Greece. Last year, 40.7 million tourists visited Greece, up 12.8 percent from 2023, according to official figures. mr/yad-jhb/js
The Advertiser
3 days ago
- The Advertiser
The cooking school where a dining table takes centre stage for the guests
In the name chosen for her business, Jen Nicita hoped to capture the essence of her work in its three simple words. Our Italian Table is the name of Jen's cooking school, where the skills learnt are only part of the experience, as the dining and conversations around the table during the meal are the hallmarks of its success. The school is located in Pokolbin on the family's 70-acre Nicita Estate and has wonderful views of the Brokenback Ranges and nearby vineyards. Even though it became fully operational just as the COVID lockdown occurred in 2020, the school has now welcomed its 7000th guest and is thriving. At the recent Hunter Valley Legends Awards, Our Italian Table won Tourist Operator of the Year. This is a credit to Jen and her staff's dedication in creating a destination where food, wine and conversations flourish. "The first time I visited my husband's family, it was the full Italian meal experience, so different to my own - no Italian heritage in my family," she said. "Beautiful food and wine, lots of co nversations at once, and everyone gathered around the family table. "That is what I wanted to create with my business in Pokolbin: a table, food, and conversations like one big Italian family. That is why I called it Our Italian Table." A career in the food industry alongside helping her husband, Vince Nicita, in his software business when her children were young would eventually lead the couple to buy their property at Pokolbin in 2017. "We lived on the North Shore and had easy access to the Hunter wineries, and I always had a passion to start a cooking school. So the property was ideal for the family getaway and my school," she said. In addition to the school, the property has a 12-acre vineyards which Scarbough Wines manage. "We love drinking the wines, but none of us is interested in making wines, so we leave it to the experts," Jen said. The school is noted for its pasta making lessons with the classes open to 10 people who may book singly, as a couple or in a group. "The mixed groups are lovely as people learn about pasta making at the same time as they chat to the other guests," Jen said. "We have such a variable guest list, so it's interesting for us and the guests." The classes last four hours, with three devoted to cooking before the guests move on to tasting their work. Jen bases the dishes where she can on local produce, but it must be seasonal, and all the ingredients must be easily procured. "If you want to buy special pasta flour, that's your call, but I want people to make their pasta with ingredients they can afford and that are available at a local supermarket," she said. Jen has noted since she started school how some people are hard on themselves when it comes to cooking. "If they took pottery classes, they could fail multiple times with their clay creations, but not when it comes to cooking, there is so much self-doubt, people are so self-critical of their cooking skills, which I hope to reverse while they are with us," she said. "We hope to instil self-confidence in our classes." The successful business now has two teachers and 10 other staff working alongside Jen, who loves that her little passion project has succeeded. "Five minutes before a class, I look around the room and think how lucky I am to be able to share my passion for food and the Italian table with others," she said. In the name chosen for her business, Jen Nicita hoped to capture the essence of her work in its three simple words. Our Italian Table is the name of Jen's cooking school, where the skills learnt are only part of the experience, as the dining and conversations around the table during the meal are the hallmarks of its success. The school is located in Pokolbin on the family's 70-acre Nicita Estate and has wonderful views of the Brokenback Ranges and nearby vineyards. Even though it became fully operational just as the COVID lockdown occurred in 2020, the school has now welcomed its 7000th guest and is thriving. At the recent Hunter Valley Legends Awards, Our Italian Table won Tourist Operator of the Year. This is a credit to Jen and her staff's dedication in creating a destination where food, wine and conversations flourish. "The first time I visited my husband's family, it was the full Italian meal experience, so different to my own - no Italian heritage in my family," she said. "Beautiful food and wine, lots of co nversations at once, and everyone gathered around the family table. "That is what I wanted to create with my business in Pokolbin: a table, food, and conversations like one big Italian family. That is why I called it Our Italian Table." A career in the food industry alongside helping her husband, Vince Nicita, in his software business when her children were young would eventually lead the couple to buy their property at Pokolbin in 2017. "We lived on the North Shore and had easy access to the Hunter wineries, and I always had a passion to start a cooking school. So the property was ideal for the family getaway and my school," she said. In addition to the school, the property has a 12-acre vineyards which Scarbough Wines manage. "We love drinking the wines, but none of us is interested in making wines, so we leave it to the experts," Jen said. The school is noted for its pasta making lessons with the classes open to 10 people who may book singly, as a couple or in a group. "The mixed groups are lovely as people learn about pasta making at the same time as they chat to the other guests," Jen said. "We have such a variable guest list, so it's interesting for us and the guests." The classes last four hours, with three devoted to cooking before the guests move on to tasting their work. Jen bases the dishes where she can on local produce, but it must be seasonal, and all the ingredients must be easily procured. "If you want to buy special pasta flour, that's your call, but I want people to make their pasta with ingredients they can afford and that are available at a local supermarket," she said. Jen has noted since she started school how some people are hard on themselves when it comes to cooking. "If they took pottery classes, they could fail multiple times with their clay creations, but not when it comes to cooking, there is so much self-doubt, people are so self-critical of their cooking skills, which I hope to reverse while they are with us," she said. "We hope to instil self-confidence in our classes." The successful business now has two teachers and 10 other staff working alongside Jen, who loves that her little passion project has succeeded. "Five minutes before a class, I look around the room and think how lucky I am to be able to share my passion for food and the Italian table with others," she said. In the name chosen for her business, Jen Nicita hoped to capture the essence of her work in its three simple words. Our Italian Table is the name of Jen's cooking school, where the skills learnt are only part of the experience, as the dining and conversations around the table during the meal are the hallmarks of its success. The school is located in Pokolbin on the family's 70-acre Nicita Estate and has wonderful views of the Brokenback Ranges and nearby vineyards. Even though it became fully operational just as the COVID lockdown occurred in 2020, the school has now welcomed its 7000th guest and is thriving. At the recent Hunter Valley Legends Awards, Our Italian Table won Tourist Operator of the Year. This is a credit to Jen and her staff's dedication in creating a destination where food, wine and conversations flourish. "The first time I visited my husband's family, it was the full Italian meal experience, so different to my own - no Italian heritage in my family," she said. "Beautiful food and wine, lots of co nversations at once, and everyone gathered around the family table. "That is what I wanted to create with my business in Pokolbin: a table, food, and conversations like one big Italian family. That is why I called it Our Italian Table." A career in the food industry alongside helping her husband, Vince Nicita, in his software business when her children were young would eventually lead the couple to buy their property at Pokolbin in 2017. "We lived on the North Shore and had easy access to the Hunter wineries, and I always had a passion to start a cooking school. So the property was ideal for the family getaway and my school," she said. In addition to the school, the property has a 12-acre vineyards which Scarbough Wines manage. "We love drinking the wines, but none of us is interested in making wines, so we leave it to the experts," Jen said. The school is noted for its pasta making lessons with the classes open to 10 people who may book singly, as a couple or in a group. "The mixed groups are lovely as people learn about pasta making at the same time as they chat to the other guests," Jen said. "We have such a variable guest list, so it's interesting for us and the guests." The classes last four hours, with three devoted to cooking before the guests move on to tasting their work. Jen bases the dishes where she can on local produce, but it must be seasonal, and all the ingredients must be easily procured. "If you want to buy special pasta flour, that's your call, but I want people to make their pasta with ingredients they can afford and that are available at a local supermarket," she said. Jen has noted since she started school how some people are hard on themselves when it comes to cooking. "If they took pottery classes, they could fail multiple times with their clay creations, but not when it comes to cooking, there is so much self-doubt, people are so self-critical of their cooking skills, which I hope to reverse while they are with us," she said. "We hope to instil self-confidence in our classes." The successful business now has two teachers and 10 other staff working alongside Jen, who loves that her little passion project has succeeded. "Five minutes before a class, I look around the room and think how lucky I am to be able to share my passion for food and the Italian table with others," she said. In the name chosen for her business, Jen Nicita hoped to capture the essence of her work in its three simple words. Our Italian Table is the name of Jen's cooking school, where the skills learnt are only part of the experience, as the dining and conversations around the table during the meal are the hallmarks of its success. The school is located in Pokolbin on the family's 70-acre Nicita Estate and has wonderful views of the Brokenback Ranges and nearby vineyards. Even though it became fully operational just as the COVID lockdown occurred in 2020, the school has now welcomed its 7000th guest and is thriving. At the recent Hunter Valley Legends Awards, Our Italian Table won Tourist Operator of the Year. This is a credit to Jen and her staff's dedication in creating a destination where food, wine and conversations flourish. "The first time I visited my husband's family, it was the full Italian meal experience, so different to my own - no Italian heritage in my family," she said. "Beautiful food and wine, lots of co nversations at once, and everyone gathered around the family table. "That is what I wanted to create with my business in Pokolbin: a table, food, and conversations like one big Italian family. That is why I called it Our Italian Table." A career in the food industry alongside helping her husband, Vince Nicita, in his software business when her children were young would eventually lead the couple to buy their property at Pokolbin in 2017. "We lived on the North Shore and had easy access to the Hunter wineries, and I always had a passion to start a cooking school. So the property was ideal for the family getaway and my school," she said. In addition to the school, the property has a 12-acre vineyards which Scarbough Wines manage. "We love drinking the wines, but none of us is interested in making wines, so we leave it to the experts," Jen said. The school is noted for its pasta making lessons with the classes open to 10 people who may book singly, as a couple or in a group. "The mixed groups are lovely as people learn about pasta making at the same time as they chat to the other guests," Jen said. "We have such a variable guest list, so it's interesting for us and the guests." The classes last four hours, with three devoted to cooking before the guests move on to tasting their work. Jen bases the dishes where she can on local produce, but it must be seasonal, and all the ingredients must be easily procured. "If you want to buy special pasta flour, that's your call, but I want people to make their pasta with ingredients they can afford and that are available at a local supermarket," she said. Jen has noted since she started school how some people are hard on themselves when it comes to cooking. "If they took pottery classes, they could fail multiple times with their clay creations, but not when it comes to cooking, there is so much self-doubt, people are so self-critical of their cooking skills, which I hope to reverse while they are with us," she said. "We hope to instil self-confidence in our classes." The successful business now has two teachers and 10 other staff working alongside Jen, who loves that her little passion project has succeeded. "Five minutes before a class, I look around the room and think how lucky I am to be able to share my passion for food and the Italian table with others," she said.
Perth Now
3 days ago
- Perth Now
Little-known homeowner side hustle to keep booming in Perth
Perth homeowners have a sporting chance of earning thousands of extra dollars. New research shows that 70 per cent of Australians would travel domestically to watch or play sport, and 21 per cent have Perth on their itinerary. Perth has been the centre of the Australian sporting universe in recent weeks with rugby league's State of Origin, the Matildas and the touring British and Irish Lions all heading to town. That's before the biggest of them all — the Ashes — head to Perth later this year, complete with England's Barmy Army, with all of the visiting fans pouring big money into the State's economy. And, of course, the Dockers and Eagles draw big crowds every week. The survey, by Airbnb, shows soccer is the number sport people travel for, followed by AFL and tennis. One person who has cashed in on the sporting boom is Andrea from Wembley Downs. who rents out part of her house to visiting fans and pocketed thousands of dollars. 'After the children moved out we considered downsizing, but instead converted the extra space into an Airbnb,' she said. Nine months ago Andrea began renting out part of her Wembley Downs home and has since welcomed hundreds of guests who flew to Perth purely to watch sport. Credit: Supplied 'We often get feedback from guests that the location was perfect for them to easily head to their sporting events. 'Being situated close to Perth's biggest stadiums is one of our key selling points, so it wasn't a surprise to welcome plenty of sports fans.' She said the variety of sport-loving guests staying at her home had been a 'lovely surprise'. 'Families come for their children's basketball and netball tournaments, we've had coaches and competitors staying for State athletic meets, guests going to AFL matches and already have guests lined up for the Ashes Test in November,' she said. 'Some may see it as unconventional, to alter your home and share it with travellers, but it's added a lovely layer of experience to our lives.' The research showed a typical host earned $915 over the weekend of the Perth Test against India in November last year. Airbnb country manager Susan Wheeldon told The Sunday Times that despite the cost-of-living crisis, Aussies were still happy to splash cash on sport. Susan Wheeldon. Credit: Supplied 'I think people are still looking for joy in their lives and to be able to get out with mates and to go and see sport,' Ms Wheeldon said. 'Most Aussies grew up playing team sport and watching sport, it is just such a part of the Australian culture . . . there's nothing quite like it.' She said it was also great for hosts. 'Becoming an Airbnb host during these major sporting events is such an easy way to help homeowners to build opposite the cost of their mortgage or the cost of of life in general,' Ms Wheeldon said.
