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Tall ship on the Thames: Aboard the Peruvian navy's pride and joy

Tall ship on the Thames: Aboard the Peruvian navy's pride and joy

BBC News13-07-2025
It seems every time an interesting ship or boat arrives in the capital, I am dispatched to investigate.In recent months, I have boarded the Nao Santa Maria - a faithful replica of the vessel Christopher Columbus sailed upon when he first explored the Americas. I filmed the Royal Navy warship, HMS Sutherland as it powered under Tower Bridge. Around the 80th anniversary of VE Day, I got to know HMS Belfast very well. And at the more modest end of the scale, there was a very wet paddle along the Limehouse Cut Canal with the jovial attendees of an all-women boat club.
This time, I explored the BAP Unión from Perú, moored for a week at West India Dock on the Isle of Dogs.The charismatic captain, Juan Jose Roncagliolo Gomez suggests a pidgin language for us to communicate in: "Spanglish?"I agree. Time to see if my 600-day streak on a popular language-learning app translates to the real world.
Capt Gomez explained the BAP Unión, built in a Peruvian shipyard between 2012 and 2015, is the largest of its kind in Latin America.This, however, does not give the ship enough respect, he feels."It is the biggest, the prettiest and the most modern."
The BAP Unión has two roles.It is a training ship for the Peruvian Navy, 227 of whom are on board when I visit.Many are high in the rigging, folding away the sails.The other purpose of this vessel, is to act as an ambassador for its home country.Capt Gomez said he wanted to know about our culture and our "impressive history".He said he is especially pleased his midshipmen, who are also his friends have the opportunity to "increase their cultural diversity in this beautiful city".
Cadets spend six months working on board. Midshipman Juan Baca, 21, said crossing the Atlantic had been "challenging", but after three days, he was used to the motion."It is very fun - you get to see a lot of sea animals - got a chance to see whales, dolphins. "And I mean, so far so good - I'm having the time of my life here."He hopes to visit, the Tower of London and Houses of Parliament.
His crewmate, Matías Reyes, also 21, adds Big Ben and Buckingham Palace to their tourist wish list - and some football stadiums.He said he missed his mother and brothers but his colleagues have become "like family"."I see them all day - for the breakfast, for the lunch, for the dinner. "We make exercise together. We do everything together. I feel them like my brothers."
Salons and stained glass
A tour of the ship revealed corridor walls covered with plaques received as gifts, framed maps of round-the-world navigations and the many global ports the BAP Unión has visited since first setting sail in 2016.The midshipman mess room doubles as a classroom during the day and there are VIP state rooms for special guests - including an elegant salon to host diplomatic bigwigs.I am less keen on the dentist's cabin, imagining tooth-pulling on a choppy sea. And the doctor's cabin can be adapted into an operating theatre.The Peruvian coat of arms glows in a stained glass window, other circular panels covering portholes trace the naval history of the country. Central in the room, is a bust of Miguel Grau, the Peruvian naval hero, known as the Gentleman of the Sea.
Capt Gomez said that he flauts one of the oldest traditions - that a commander should eat alone as they make better decisions in combat.He quipped: "Nowadays I die if I'm alone here".By now, the BBC London camera operator, Cristian, is buckling after the continuous 27-minute shot filmed on a gimbal, so I suggest we call it a wrap. We were brought dainty glasses of Pisco. The third sip of the strong grape brandy made me cough, which the naval officers found hilarious.We were then accompanied, as if old friends, back to dry land. Here in the capital, she's drawn crowds, which helps the tourist industry - according to a Port of London report, the River Thames generates more than £2bn for the economy in tourism and leisure activities.Has this latest embarkment improved my nautical knowledge or raised my comfort levels? Well, not really. I am perpetually confused as to whether the stern is the back or the front. And frankly, should my editor suggest a report from a moving ship, there would be mutiny. But with so many visiting vessels on the River Thames, perhaps one day I will overcome my wobbly sea legs to earn my stripes.
The BAP Unión continues her tour of the UK, next berthing in Aberdeen.
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