A new chapter at Badger & Co – where literary charm meets culinary innovation

Edinburgh Reporter

21 hours ago

Edinburgh's Badger & Co has opened an exciting new dining chapter at its beloved Castle Street location, and what a page-turner it was.
Nestled in the New Town where cobblestones echo with centuries of stories and Edinburgh Castle stands sentinel, this reimagined menu weaves together Scotland's finest produce with literary whimsy that would make Kenneth Grahame himself proud.
The restaurant's connection to The Wind in the Willows runs deeper than mere theme – Grahame was born at this very address, 32 Castle Street, in 1859. It's a delightful piece of Edinburgh literary history that new head chef Scott Campbell has embraced with creativity.
Campbell, supported by his talented team of eight, has crafted a playful, seasonal menu that ventures boldly beyond the 'Wild Wood' of traditional Scottish fare, celebrating local and foraged ingredients with contemporary flair that feels both innovative and authentically Scottish. This is exactly the kind of culinary ingenuity that will captivate both discerning locals and the international visitors flocking to our city for Festival season.
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The menu structure is thoughtfully designed – small plates for sharing (my usual bugbear, but they work beautifully as starters here), followed by 'the main voyage' cleverly divided into Field, Shore, and Glen options, plus generous sharing sides that elevate the entire experience.
The heritage tomatoes with whipped feta, burnt onion emulsion, and black olive crumb was nothing short of a revelation – simplicity executed with such precision that every bite celebrated the tomato's natural magnificence. My dining companion Nicki's Scotsman scallops with haggis, pickled neeps, roast potato aioli, and samphire (which I'll take her enthusiastic word for, being seafood-allergic myself) hit every mark with its inspired fusion of coastal and highland flavours.
On our waiter Angus's excellent recommendation, we indulged in Badger's homemade bread with Edinburgh butter and Blackthorn sea salt – the perfect light, doughy accompaniment that showcased the kitchen team's attention to even the smallest details.
For mains, I couldn't resist the pork tomahawk from the Field section, glazed with n'duja and red pepper, accompanied by potato gratin, salsa verde, and cavolo nero. But the real star was the side of spring cabbage – forget every terrible school dinner memory you might harbour. This beautiful, sweet spring cabbage with peas, more of that glorious whipped feta, crispy cavolo nero, and a satisfying crunch of pecan was nothing short of a revelation. I am already planning to recreate it at home.
Nicki opted for the Cauliflower Steak from the Glen selection, served with butter bean purée, cauliflower couscous, cauliflower leaves, and walnut dukkah. While she was perfectly content with her choice, as a committed carnivore, I'm convinced I chose the winner.
Desserts continued Campbell's theme of familiar comfort reimagined. Nicki's Sticky Toffee Tea Party arrived as a perfect mini-loaf made with Earl Grey-soaked puréed dates, drowning in Blackthorn caramel sauce with a generous dollop of clotted cream.
My Cranachan Teacake was pure theatre – and here's a tip – definitely ask for both fork and spoon to anchor this beauty, or risk a Julia Roberts Pretty Woman moment when cracking the dark chocolate shell! Once breached, the dreamy interior is revealed – layers of raspberry and whisky jam, marshmallow, fresh raspberries, and rose honey that paired magnificently with a dram of Dalwhinnie, its light, floral notes cutting through the dessert's rich complexity.
With Festival season approaching and Badger & Co's prime location near key Fringe venues – Assembly Rooms on George Street, Braw Venues at Grand Lodge, and Greenside at George Street – Campbell has created something perfectly timed for both our cultural calendar and culinary landscape. This is destination dining that will delight international Festival-goers while giving locals a compelling new reason to explore their own city's evolving food scene.
Badger & Co represents the best of contemporary Scottish hospitality – rooted in place and story, but bold enough to surprise and delight. It's exactly the kind of innovative thinking our dining scene needs, and I suspect Mr. Badger himself would thoroughly approve.
Badger & Co
32 Castle Street, Edinburgh, EH2 3HT
www.badgerandco.com
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