Inside the historic earthen walls of Al Jahili Fort in Al Ain

Al Etihad

5 days ago

24 June 2025 00:15
RAJEEV CHERIAN (AL AIN)The cooing of pigeons from the watchtower, combined with the warmth and aroma of Arabic coffee, welcomes visitors to the iconic Al Jahili Fort in the oasis city of Al Ain. Located to the west of Al Ain Oasis, Al Jahili Fort is one of the largest forts in this region of Abu Dhabi. It is associated with Sheikh Zayed bin Khalifa Al Nahyan, also known as Zayed the First, who ruled from 1855 to 1909. Sheikh Zayed bin Khalifa was the grandfather of the UAE's Founding Father, the late Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan.Built between 1891 and 1898, the fort once served as a summer retreat for the royal family. Now, it forms part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Al Ain, a serial property made of 17 site components grouped into four assemblages; Jebel Hafit, Hili, Bidaa Bint Saud, and the Oases.Incorporating many elements of traditional mudbrick architecture, the fort is comprised of a visitor centre with a majlis, a temporary exhibition, the Tower, the Old Fort, a mosque, and a permanent exhibition delving into the travels of British explorer Wilfred Thesiger. The tower is the oldest part of the fort, featuring the original round watchtower that predates the rest of the structure. It was used to guard the nearby Al Ain Oasis and the underground water channel system called the 'falaj', according to information at the site. This tower has become an iconic symbol of Al Ain and is depicted on the UAE's Dh50 banknote.The square fort built by Zayed the First houses a residence in the northeast corner and watchtowers at other corners. A mosque is also situated right outside its walls.
Earthen Architecture Today's Al Jahili Fort is a product of careful restoration work that reused 90% of the structure's earthen materials. Historical earth blocks — some of which date as far back as the 19th century — were restored.More details about Abu Dhabi's prized earthen architecture and similar structures around the world are showcased at the visitor centre. Although the advent of industrial building materials by the end of 19th century made earthen buildings less popular, sustainable architecture has gained traction over the past 40 years.The Department of Culture and Tourism's work at Al Jahili Fort aims to raise awareness of earthen buildings as part of the UAE's architectural heritage — all while highlighting the green qualities of the traditional materials used in Al Ain buildings. The project was awarded the prestigious Terra Award at Terra Lyon 2016.
Who is 'Mubarak bin London'? Another key highlight at Al Jahili Fort is the 'Mubarak Bin London – Wilfred Thesiger and the Freedom of the Desert' exhibition, which traces the footsteps of the legendary explorer, travel writer and photographer, and his connection to Al Ain.To the people he travelled with, Wilfred Thesiger was known as 'Mubarak bin London' — or 'the blessed one from London'.In his book 'Arabian Sands', Thesiger described his visits to the region where he stayed as the guest of Sheikh Zayed, then the Ruler's Representative in Al Ain.He took photographs capturing how the fort and its surroundings looked in the late 1940s — and all these images are on display at the exhibition. An avid traveller, Thesiger often journeyed on foot and spent time in Ethiopia, Sudan, Iraq, Iran, and Afghanistan, among many others.He regarded his time in Arabia — where he explored the desert of the Empty Quarter — the 'five happiest years of my life', reads an inscription.Between 1946 and 1949, he crossed the Empty Quarter twice, travelling some 16,000km on foot and camelback with his Bedouin companions.After his second crossing in 1948, Thesiger and his party came to Abu Dhabi where they were welcomed as guests by the ruling family. Then, they stopped by Al Ain where they met Sheikh Zayed.Sheikh Zayed warmly welcomed Thesiger, providing him with camels, hunting dogs, and guides. In between his travels, Thesiger spent a month hawking with Sheikh Zayed. The two men remained friends for the rest of their lives.On display at the exhibition are his photos, quotes, and equipment identical to those he carried during his travels.During his time in the desert, he relied totally on the guidance and assistance of his Bedouin companions.
'Without their help I could never have travelled in the Empty Quarter,' reads a quote from him at the exhibition.