‘Melbourne wine bar' has become its own genre, but this decade-old spot breaks the mould

Sydney Morning Herald

6 days ago

It's a pleasure to be here, sitting at the bar, or in the backroom, or along the window facing Johnston Street, the hurriedly spray-painted and never updated Bar Liberty sign glowing like an endorsement of all the decisions that brought you to this moment.
Is it soul? Bar Liberty makes me think of great footy clubs, immortalising heroes on imaginary honour rolls, handing over traditions implicitly and explicitly. Spirit is steeped in everything from the timber to the playlists to the flavours and, of course, the customers who bring their own romance and energy, resulting in a sprightly institution full of meaning and delight.
Three more Fitzroy spots to try
El Columpio
The tacos are outstanding (I'm a huge fan of the cactus and mushroom ones especially), but when you're wondering how to stay warm in winter, consider the pozole, a Mexican soup with white corn, chicken or pork, and fresh crunchy garnishes. It's wholesome and sustaining any time of day.
52 Johnston Street, Fitzroy, elcolumpio.com
Crop
Frankie Cox's Green-on has rebranded to Crop and expanded from Cremorne to Fitzroy. The build-your-own salad concept has carried over, and I love the Winter Miso option with sweet potato, red cabbage, green beans, seaweed crunch, rocket, barley and miso-ginger dressing – a lunch that will easily carry you through to dinner.
291 Smith Street, Fitzroy, cropkitchen.au
Maven by Morgan
When Morgan Hipworth was a teen, he launched doughnut brand Bistro Morgan. Now all grown up, he's opened Maven, a modern Mediterranean restaurant that serves signature cocktails (such as the Split Decision with banana-infused rum and roasted peanut sherry). There are separate menus for vegans, halal diners, and anyone avoiding garlic and onion.