Around Town: Inside Girgaon Chowpatty's 100-year-old Café General, which has survived World Wars, seen Independence, and is now a college favourite

Indian Express

14-06-2025

If you've ever been in and around Girgaon Chowpatty, chances are you've passed Cafe General — a landmark that has stood for over a century. Once a go-to for daily essentials, it later became a popular tea-and-snack stop, and for the last 50 years, it's been a beloved spot to enjoy a chilled beer and a hearty meal while overlooking the Arabian Sea. And, if you've dropped by in recent years, you've likely been greeted by the ever-smiling, polite Rustom Sheriar Irani — a hospitality graduate and the third-generation custodian of the cafe.
Turning the wheels of time
In the early 1900s, a young Rustom Sheriar Irani — the current owner's grandfather — migrated from Iran and set up a provision store named Cafe General & Stores opposite Girgaon Chowpatty. Like most Irani stores of the time, it stocked everyday necessities: chocolates, butter, biscuits, soaps, razors, and toothpaste. During World War II, financial pressures forced them to downsize the establishment to its current size.
'My father, Sheriar Rustom Irani, would tell me how they had to shut shop by 6 pm. It became difficult to pay the rent, so they decided to cut back,' shared Rustom.
After Independence, the provision store slowly transformed into a cafe. 'My father must have been 18 or 19 when he joined the business. My uncle, Shapur Sheriar Irani, followed soon after. They began serving tea, coffee, samosas, bun maska, mutton pattice, sandwiches — the works,' he said, recalling how regulars would settle in with a newspaper and bun maska.
Over time, the duo expanded the offerings and, by the 1980s, turned it into a full-fledged restaurant and bar. Mughlai, Indian-Chinese, and, most importantly, Parsi cuisine became staples. 'They also added an air-conditioned section and an ice cream parlour. I remember coming here after school just for a mango or raspberry duet,' he laughed.
Having served generations, Cafe General has built a loyal clientele. 'People often come and share stories — how their parents dined here, then they did, and now they bring their kids along. It's always very nostalgic,' Rustom shared, adding that among them was Jackie Shroff. 'When he was living in Walkeshwar's Teen Batti chawl, he would often drop by for a meal. This was before his modelling career took off. We've also had several cricketers over the years, especially Ranji players,' he added.
Let's talk contemporary
Rustom's own journey with the cafe began during his college days. As a student at Dadar Catering College, he would stop by for a couple of hours. After graduating, those hours stretched and eventually turned into full-time responsibility when his father and uncle passed away a little over a decade ago.
'I like experimenting with food. I always cooked at home, but after my culinary education, I started tweaking the dishes here,' he said. Take the crispy paneer, for example — now topped with a creamy white sauce, bell peppers, and olives. Sizzlers got an upgrade too: four chicken lollipops over a bed of rice, crowned with a slice of cheese. The menu slowly expanded to include pizzas, burgers, and other fast food items.
Among the dishes we tried and enjoyed were the chilli paneer, and the veg shashlik — a colourful medley of batter-fried vegetables on rice, topped with a sweet-and-spicy Indian-Chinese sauce.
The cafe also runs a Gupta Kulfi franchise, with their kulfis and towering faloodas being a major draw. Served both inside and from a road-facing counter, these treats are best enjoyed with a view of the sea. The falooda, rich and indulgent, easily satisfies the sugar cravings of two to three adults.
Unlike many Parsi eateries that are fading away due to a lack of successors, Cafe General has not only survived but evolved. 'The clientele has changed. Now we get younger, college-going crowds,' said Rustom. Families still come for dinner and on weekends.
The interiors reflect this shift. Redone six years ago, the old marble-top tables and bentwood chairs have given way to cafe-style seating. Posters about beer, Harley-Davidson signs (Rustom and his brothers-in-law are biking enthusiasts), and a patch of faux grass with a 'Cafe General' signboard now add to the vibe.
Still, one wall is dedicated to the past — with black-and-white photographs of Cafe General and the Chowpatty shoreline. And the menu, while ever-growing, continues to honour its Parsi roots. Their coconut-based curry — mildly spiced and available in vegetarian, chicken, or other variants — is a must-try. So is their salli boti, a Parsi classic: tender mutton in a rich tomato-based gravy, topped with crisp potato salli. Hearty and nostalgic.
What's next?
'Hopefully a second branch,' Rustom said with a smile. The plan has been in the works for a while. He's considering locations between Bandra and Andheri, hoping to reconnect with customers who've since moved to the suburbs.