James Beard America's Classics 2025: 3 Winners' Stories

Forbes

22-06-2025

The eager crowd outside Sullivan's on Castle Island isn't just waiting for a lobster roll; they're ... More stepping into an enduring tradition. This Boston landmark, a 2025 James Beard America's Classic, embodies the spirit of community and lasting impact shared by all six honorees, including Dooky Chase's and Lucky Wishbone, two others featured in this piece.
In an era where the food world constantly reinvents itself, the James Beard America's Classics award celebrates a rarer, more profound achievement: restaurants that stay rooted. While the annual Restaurant and Chef Awards often spotlight innovation, precision, and new narratives of taste, this particular category recognizes places that have done something quieter—but no less impactful. They've endured, and they've fed communities across generations. And they've done it without chasing the spotlight.
This year, the esteemed America's Classics award recognized six remarkable establishments: Dooky Chase's Restaurant in New Orleans, Lucky Wishbone in Anchorage, Sullivan's Castle Island in Boston, Lem's Bar-B-Q in Chicago, The Pioneer Saloon in Ketchum, Idaho, and Gaido's in Galveston, Texas. I had the unique opportunity to speak directly with three of these winners. What I heard from them wasn't just gratitude. It was something deeper: reflections on legacy, community, and the power of a shared table.
Dooky Chase's Restaurant (New Orleans, LA)
For 80+ years, Dooky Chase's has been a living archive of culture and community in New Orleans. We ... More spoke with Stella Chase Reese, Tracie Haydel Griffin, and Chef Edgar 'Dook' Chase IV about their 2025 James Beard America's Classics win and enduring family legacy.
There's something humbling about watching a family receive an award for work they've done for over 80 years without asking for recognition. When I spoke with members of the Chase family—Stella Chase Reese, Tracie Haydel Griffin, and Chef Edgar 'Dooky' Chase IV—they described the honor not just as an achievement, but as a moment of deep reflection. 'The restaurant has been our lives,' Chase Reese said. 'We were born into it.'
That sense of birthright isn't just biological—it's cultural. Stella, the daughter of Leah Chase, has watched Dooky Chase evolve across decades. Tracie, Leah's granddaughter, helps run the front of house today, while Edgar IV, her great-grandson, now leads the kitchen. Together, they represent three generations still at work in the same space, carrying forward a legacy that has long extended beyond the plate. Dooky Chase didn't just serve food; it served as a meeting ground during the civil rights movement, a living archive of Black culinary brilliance, and a testament to what it means to feed people with purpose. 'We want guests to feel like they've been fed in the home of the Chase family,' Haydel Griffin said. And it's not just about the gumbo or the fried chicken, but about feeling loved—about being seen.
When asked what being named an American Classic says about their place in the country's culinary canon, the answer came without hesitation. 'Food is culture, food is history, food is tradition,' Edgar Chase IV shared. 'Food brings people together over a common bond.' In other words, this win isn't just a nod to the past—it's a call to keep setting the table for what's next.
Lucky Wishbone (Anchorage, AK)
his Anchorage institution has made generations feel at home for 70 years. Heidi Heinrich-Lervaag, ... More Carolina Stacey, and Patricia Brown-Heller shared what makes Lucky Wishbone a 2025 James Beard America's Classic.
Some restaurants make a name for themselves. Others, like Lucky Wishbone, become part of the names people pass down—etched into childhoods, family rituals, and homecomings. 'Anybody that lives in Alaska brings people to Lucky Wishbone,' said Heidi Heinrich-Lervaag, who co-owns the restaurant alongside Carolina Stacey and Patricia Brown-Heller. 'It's part of their childhood. It's what they grew up with.'
'This year marks our 70th anniversary,' Brown-Heller said. 'It's validation for what you've been doing for so long. You can't describe it in words. It just feels right.' Her parents, Peg and George Brown, founded the restaurant in 1955.
What they are part of is not just a menu—it's a community landmark that reflects Anchorage's rich cultural mix. Stacey, who began working at Lucky Wishbone when she was just 16, now helps lead the restaurant she once served in as a teenager. 'Anchorage is a multicultural city,' she said. 'We have more than 120 languages spoken in our schools. Our customers and our employees reflect that.'
The food, however, remains beautifully unchanged. The fried chicken recipe dates back over a hundred years. The Cheeseburger Deluxe is still what regulars swear by. And the frozen strawberry milkshake? 'We're known for our milkshakes. Over 40 flavors—and people love to mix and match,' said Stacey. 'The strawberry is the one people remember.'
That, perhaps, is the secret to their longevity. Lucky Wishbone doesn't just serve burgers and chicken—it serves a sense of connection and care, built over decades. 'Families come in together,' Brown-Heller said. 'Grandparents, parents, kids. And now those kids are bringing their kids. That's what makes it a classic.'
Sullivan's Castle Island (Boston, MA)
Where the line is the point and everyone's invited. Brendan Sullivan of Sullivan's Castle Island ... More shares why this Boston landmark, famous for 70+ years, is now a 2025 James Beard America's Classic. Get insights into their unique philosophy.
For more than 70 years, Sullivan's Castle Island—known simply as Sully's—has been where Bostonians go to mark a moment. A seasonal stop for smash burgers, crinkle-cut fries, and lobster rolls, it's also where generations have brought their kids after Little League games, or grabbed lunch on a walk by the water, or found a familiar face behind the counter. Now, it's an America's Classic.
'We're just so honored,' said Brendan Sullivan, part of the fourth generation in the family to run the stand. 'It's truly an unbelievable experience, and we're thrilled that a place like Sully's could be recognized.'
The beauty of Sullivan's, his wife Adrienne Sullivan explained, isn't just the food—it's the feel. 'The sense of community is what makes it special,' she said. 'Regardless of how long you've lived in Boston or whether it's your first day there, everybody stands in line like everybody else. There are no VIPs. If you're not sure what to order, just ask the person behind you or in front of you. Everybody comes in a stranger and leaves as friends.'
That idea of shared space—of connection across difference—isn't just nostalgic. It's central to what Sully's represents. 'I think it's that sense of community, regardless of where you come from,' Adrienne said. 'Anybody who's worked in hospitality understands how hard restaurant workers work, and we're just humbled to be recognized on behalf of everyone who's walked through our doors—whether it was their first job out of high school, they were putting themselves through college, or making a living in the industry. Restaurants create that kind of personal connection, and that's something we need now more than ever.'
Why These Stories Matter
CHICAGO, ILLINOIS - JUNE 16: (L-R) Nicholas Gaido, Edgar Chase, Stella Chase Reese, Carolina Stacey, ... More Heidi Heinrich-Lervaag and Brendan Sullivan winners of the America's Classics award speak on stage during the 2025 James Beard Restaurant and Chef Awards on June 16, 2025 in Chicago, Illinois. (Photo byfor James Beard Foundation)
Not every restaurant is built to scale; some are built to stay. And the America's Classics award recognizes that kind of staying power—rooted in place, carried through people, and held together by memory, not marketing. The families behind Dooky Chase's, Lucky Wishbone, and Sullivan's Castle Island—like their fellow 2025 honorees Lem's Bar-B-Q, The Pioneer Saloon, and Gaido's—aren't chasing reinvention. They're showing up, year after year, for their communities, offering a quiet masterclass in enduring success.
In a food world that often rewards what's new and trendy, these restaurants stand as powerful reminders of the profound value in what truly holds. Their authenticity isn't a marketing strategy; it's a living tradition. They serve not just meals, but belonging, fostering connections that span generations and cultures. Their presence matters—not just because of the iconic dishes they serve, but because of who they continue to serve, and how they remain unwavering anchors in a constantly shifting landscape. In an age seeking meaning and connection, the enduring table of an American Classic offers a deeply satisfying answer.
This year's full list of James Beard America's Classics award winners includes:
You can view the full list of this year's America's Classics winners on the James Beard Foundation site.