
Can the viral black lipstick become your daily go-to?
During its runway show, the models wore outrageous designs by Daniel Roseberry, including miniature saddles that were converted into shoulder pads, and a pulsating, crystal-encrusted heart attached to a satin gown. The collection was enhanced by well-known artist Pat McGrath's make up. Clean skin but with a glow, hair sternly slicked back, and a glossy black pout in focus. McGrath had taken black lipstick out of the punk-goth circles and made it perfectly suitable for the couture runway.
But can you wear black lipstick, now a viral beauty trend thanks to the Schiaparelli show, in your daily life? And does it suit everyone?
There are many ways to do the black lipstick look, says celebrity hair and makeup artist Arti Nayar, who works with stars including Sonam Kapoor Ahuja and Kareena Kapoor Khan.
'You can go completely black on the lips, or even do a burgundy or deep cherry ombré that looks black. Regardless of what you choose, you will need a good lip scrub first to get all the dry skin off," Nayar says, adding that the colours can work for anyone. "You can even use a soft toothbrush, and then apply a balm. Do this before you begin your make up, so when it's time to apply the lipstick after the base, your lips are hydrated."
This makes it easier for a black lip pencil or a lipstick to glide over and look plump too.
Always start with a lip liner. Ideally a matte finish black lip is a good bet, says Nayar, as creamy or glossy blacks often don't have a good pigment payoff. 'Even if I want a creamy finish, I first use a matte black lip pencil, and top it with a cream or glossy formulation to get intense pigment. The key to a good black lipstick is a little little bit of shine, it can be concentrated in the centre to get that slightly pouty finish, or you can do it through and through," says Nayar.
Dab a little extra powder around the mouth, so if there's some colour running, it's easy to correct with a sponge and powder. If you wish to make black lipstick more intense and long lasting, you can top it with a black eyeshadow. Apply a lot of loose powder around the lips so if there's any fallout, you can just dust it off, suggests Nayar.
For a creamy or glossy look, apply your glossy or cream top coat just before you are ready to leave home (Nayar does it just before a model faces the camera), or it will give you an uneven finish and pigment output.
'This rule applies to black eyeshadow too: If I want a glossy lid, I go with the gloss on top just before the shoot to make it last long and reduce touch ups," says Nayar.
For the rest of the face, it's best to keep it neutral and not go heavy on the eyes. 'You can play with the level of shine with your highlighter, but don't go overboard with eyeshadow. I will probably use something subtle but high shine so that it's balanced throughout. You can accentuate lashes instead, and open up the eye with a little rose gold or white on the waterline, because the black lip look is very intense," says Nayar.
Another option to try is a graphic liner—just a flick at the corner of the eye or accentuate the inner corner. You can even do a black line in the crease or on the lid.
'If not black, do a deep cherry on the outer corner and black in the middle or reverse. This ombré effect gives dimension and juiciness when applying dark colours," says Nayar.
Dhara Vora Sabhnani is a Mumbai-based writer.

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