‘You need strong nerves': Account of a solo traveller from Taiwan who took 104 hours to escape Iran amid Israeli airstrikes

Indian Express

12 hours ago

When Ariel Kang Chengxuan, a 24-year-old solo traveller from Taiwan, fell asleep on a Persian carpet at a homestay in Isfahan, Iran, she had no idea she would soon find herself in the middle of a '12-day war'.
On June 13, Israel launched its strikes targeting Iran's nuclear and military infrastructure, triggering days of intense conflict between the longstanding foes.
Kang, a seasoned backpacker who has travelled to 51 countries in the past three years, told CNN that the first signs of the attack came through messages from friends the next day. Still, life in Isfahan appeared normal, with shops open and traffic light, she recalled. It wasn't until the morning of June 14, while watching TV with her host family, that she understood the severity. 'We were so shocked to see the missile attacks,' she said.
Though she was travelling alone, Kang says she tried to stay calm. 'I had heard that the target was the Iranian government, not civilians, so I wasn't too worried about my safety.'
Kang's trip to Iran was born out of interest in Persian architecture, especially the iconic blue domes of Isfahan. 'I'm in love with the unique colour of Persian blue that is used in the mosques,' she told CNN, adding that sites like the UNESCO-listed Masjed-e Jāmé moved her.
Despite the US State Department's longstanding warning to avoid travel to Iran due to security risks, Kang made it her 51st country. Travelling under a Taiwanese passport — and with no Taiwanese diplomatic presence in Iran — she turned to online communities for help.
'Travelling in Iran can be daunting,' she said. 'You need strong nerves to handle everything thrown at you.'
Kang relied on homestays booked through a couch-surfing website and overcame challenges with the help of locals, who made the trip 'unforgettable' for her. 'Warmth of human connection felt so special,' she said, as per CNN. People on the street would use translation apps to tell her, 'You are my guest.''
On June 14, after cancelling plans to travel north due to road closures, she spent the day playing card games and cooking with her host family, sharing bread and tea while introducing them to Chinese malatang and milk tea.
Kang's departure from Iran began in the early hours of June 15. As she boarded a bus to Tehran, a police officer asked her to wear a headscarf during a routine check. Black smoke near the capital unnerved her, but she pressed on.
Arriving in Tehran by afternoon, she searched for onward tickets to Tabriz while gunfire echoed in the distance. 'I heard sounds of gunfire every 10 minutes,' she said.
Her escape route stretched from Tehran to Tabriz to Maku and finally across the border into Turkey. The full journey took 104 hours, including an overnight bus to Istanbul, and eventually a flight to Taiwan.
Reflecting on her experience, Kang told CNN she considers Iran one of her top five travel destinations, despite the dangers. 'I will never regret coming to Iran,' she said. 'The people there are amazing, with great hospitality.'
(With inputs from CNN)