The Wind Up – Watch News #332
Published: 27 Jul 2025 |Last Updated: 25 Jul 2025
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Welcome to the next edition of your watch news go-to, The Wind Up, our weekly series highlighting the newest watches of the past seven days, and what a week it has been! Alongside a suite of stunning new high-complication models from the world's biggest and brightest watchmakers, there were a few surprise announcements that landed this week.
In this latest instalment, we'll be featuring some of the coolest new watches, including pieces from the likes of Cartier and Greubel Forsey, alongside a very fun release from Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin. Happy reading, fellas, and I hope you have a great week ahead.
Cartier Tank Américaine Platinum | Image: Cartier
Cartier Tank Américaine Platinum
Brand: Cartier
Cartier Model: Tank Américaine Platinum
Tank Américaine Platinum Reference: Ref. CRWGTA0367
Ref. CRWGTA0367 Diameter: 44.40mm
44.40mm Thickness: 8.60mm
8.60mm Material : Platinum
: Platinum Movement: Calibre 1899 MC
Calibre 1899 MC Power Reserve: 40 hours
40 hours Water Resistance: 30 metres
30 metres Price: €26,400 (Limited to 120 pieces)
Made for the European market in a limited run of only 120 pieces, the new Cartier Tank Américaine Platinum pairs a platinum case with an abstract blue dial. The bold flat edges of the platinum case open the door to a very interesting geometric dial made with a technique known as camaïeu, complete with different shades of blue and linear patterns.
It's a stellar throwback to the design codes of yesteryear, and Cartier has made the bold decision to release the latest piece in three case sizes (Mini, Small, Medium and Large). The first three are powered by quartz with only the Large Medium copping a mechanical movement.
This art deco look is the perfect play for the Tank Américaine's aesthetic, and is topped off by the eight-sided crown set with a faceted ruby. For lovers of Art Deco, this timepiece has all the hallmarks you'd expect for a period piece, right down to the alternating shades of blue on the dial.
Importantly, Cartier has also dropped the signature railway minutes track, ensuring the piece conforms to the streamlined, minimalist geometric language. The Cartier Tank Américaine Platinum's architectural look is on full display here, and will be available throughout Europe only.
Greubel Forsey Balancier Contemporain | Image: Greubel Forsey
Greubel Forsey Balancier Contemporain
Brand: Greubel Forsey
Greubel Forsey Model: Balancier Contemporain
Balancier Contemporain Diameter: 39.60mm
39.60mm Thickness: 12.25mm
12.25mm Material : Stainless steel
: Stainless steel Movement: Balancier Contemporain
Balancier Contemporain Power Reserve: 70 hours
70 hours Water Resistance: 30 metres
30 metres Price: CHF220,000 (Limited to 33 pieces)
This week, we officially bid farewell to the highly revered but near-impossible-to-buy Balancier Contemporain from Greubel Forsey. Not one to go out without a bang, the watchmaker has issued one final edition, and it is a stone-cold stunner. The 33-piece stainless steel limited edition Balancier Contemporain is the last we'll see of the esteemed collection and remains very in keeping with the independent watchmaker's iconic aesthetic.
The new timepiece follows the exact dimensions of the original 2019 Balancier Contemporain, measuring a slim 39.6mm in diameter and just 12.25mm in height. Contrasting previous releases, however, the final edition takes things in a new direction material-wise.
The stainless steel model marks a slightly different change of tack for Greubel Forsey, a sentiment that is matched by the introduction of a sunburst blue finish on the hour and minute displays. Finishing is, of course, second to none. Black-polishing, laser-engraved text, white gold screws, blue-treated German silver, the Balancier Contemporain has it all and then some. A finale of epic proportions.
Time Eater Tourbillon Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin | Image: Konstantin Chaykin
Time Eater Tourbillon Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin
Brand: Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin
Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Model: Time Eater Tourbillon
Time Eater Tourbillon Reference: Ref. 89241AA9xx
Ref. 89241AA9xx Diameter: 42mm
42mm Thickness: 12.65mm
12.65mm Material : Stainless steel
: Stainless steel Movement: Calibre BCP T02
Calibre BCP T02 Power Reserve: 100 hours
100 hours Water Resistance: 50 metres
50 metres Price: CHF19,900 (Limited to 78 pieces in green, 28 pieces in blue)
From Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin, we have the final Time Eater variant in the Time Eater Tourbillon. The new timepiece still carries its monster-inspired visuals, but with the addition of a complication, the Time Eater Tourbillon makes for a more interesting package from a watchmaking perspective.
From the rolling eye to the gaping mouth that houses the tourbillon, the Time Eater Tourbillon is anything but conventional. And while it is a polarising piece that won't have mass appeal, it's hard to argue just how cool and creative it is.
Biver Minute Repeater Carillon Tourbillon Signature Series | Image: Biver
Biver Minute Repeater Carillon Tourbillon Signature Series
Brand: Biver
Biver Model: Minute Repeater Carillon Tourbillon Signature Series
Minute Repeater Carillon Tourbillon Signature Series Diameter: 42mm
42mm Thickness: 13.70mm
13.70mm Material : Titanium; Titanium and rose gold
: Titanium; Titanium and rose gold Movement: Calibre JCB.001-B
Calibre JCB.001-B Power Reserve: 72 hours
72 hours Water Resistance: 50 metres
50 metres Price: CHF475,000
New from Biver is the Minute Repeater Carillon Tourbillon Signature Series. In this new series of super high end watches, we have two distinct models, one in titanium and the other in titanium and rose gold. Both models look rather simple, but as always, there is more to them than meets the eye.
The Minute Repeater Carillon Tourbillon Signature Series houses a tourbillon and a minute repeater. This kind of very complicated watchmaking is often unheard of outside of the Holy Trinity and its close peers, but in partnership with Le Cercle des Horlogers, Biver was able to produce this micro-masterpiece. Not bad for half a million.
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Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convexe | Image: Greubel Forsey Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convexe Brand: Greubel Forsey Greubel Forsey Model: GMT Balancier Convexe GMT Balancier Convexe Diameter: 44.90mm 44.90mm Thickness: 17.60mm 17.60mm Material : Titanium : Titanium Water Resistance: 50 metres 50 metres Movement: GMT Balancier Convexe GMT Balancier Convexe Power Reserve: 70 hours 70 hours Price: Price on request At the very end of the wide-ranging spectrum of horology sits the newest piece from Greubel Forsey. The GMT Balancier Convexe is an exploration of horological endeavour, taking watch development to its extremities and delivering supreme accuracy, design and innovation in the process. If you ask me, this is less of a new release and more of a dimension revamp, with Greubel Forsey opting to shave off a few millimetres from its existing GMT Balancier Convexe model. 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