
‘Breathing in the fragrances of the Atlas cedar trees': readers' favourite places in Morocco
Taghazout, a 30-minute drive north of Agadir, is already on the map as a surf destination, but as the sun goes down the town's skatepark is the place to head. Built in just a few weeks on public ground by 100 volunteers from around the globe, it's become a community hub, as well as a place for visitors to gather and witness some epic tricks against the stunning ocean backdrop. Skateboards and safety gear are available to rent, and lessons are available. Because the scene feels more inclusive than at UK parks, you may well be tempted.Gemma
Guardian Travel readers' tips
Every week we ask our readers for recommendations from their travels. A selection of tips will be featured online and may appear in print. To enter the latest competition visit the readers' tips homepage
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The Medina Stories food tour (about £35 a head) in Marrakech is just fabulous. The guide, Rachid, is a trove of historical and culinary expertise, taking you to more than a dozen off-the-beaten-track stalls, bakeries, cafes and restaurants to snack on all manner of local delicacies, from homemade yoghurt and breads to cow spleen sandwiches and snails. You end up drinking mint tea overlooking the bustle of Jemaa el-Fnaa. It's a brilliant entry to the medina for disoriented tourists. We even took our toddler and he absolutely loved it, except the snails. Matt Bishop
On the road between the legendary fort of Aït Benhaddou and the desert paradise of Merzouga is a little-known town called Agdz, a peaceful haven with a huge ancient casbah. In the north of the town, surrounded by palm and pomegranate trees, the casbah is a relic of the caravan trading route to Timbuktu, and is a maze of mud-brick houses and fortifications. Having the opportunity to walk freely through such a vast historical site without any interruption or fee was a unique experience.Danny
The steep, craggy mountains of the Ameln valley in the Anti-Atlas tower over the many Amazigh villages dotted along the valley floor. Ancient houses and minarets cling to the mountainside. Occasionally, you may hear sounds from behind a courtyard wall, but mostly it's a quiet and enchanting place where you could spend weeks following the narrow paths between the villages. There are a handful of guesthouses – Bio Beldi in Ait Omgas has a simple, spacious two-bedroom apartment (€55 a night, B&B). The restaurant downstairs serves delicious dishes using food from the garden.Craig
The unpretentious and magnificently named Taha the Grandson restaurant on the promenade of Agadir was a real find among the more tourist-oriented beachfront places to eat. It is run by Iraqi Taha as a work of devotion to his late grandfather. We found friendly and helpful service, delicious Middle Eastern food (the Iraqi lentil soup was a delicious starter) and an expert lesson in how to make a proper cup of mint tea (it's all in the pouring). On top of the wonderful food, it proved excellent value.Matt Lunt
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Last November, my best friend and I attended the third Zamane festival in the small oasis town of M'Hamid El Ghizlane, on the edge of the Sahara. From Marrakech we drove through the High Atlas and Anti-Atlas mountains, stopping at our leisure to let the natural beauty of the surroundings and its people sink into our souls. We stayed in a beautiful and affordable casbah in the city of Ouarzazate. In the early evening of the first day of the festival we arrived and immersed ourselves in the music, the colours and the energy. A remarkable three-day celebration of nomadic life with the soundtrack of desert blues (a fusion of blues and rock from the Sahara). The performance of the headliner, Bombino, was a fitting climax to the whole unforgettable experience. Humberto Pena
Rabat was the city break I didn't know I needed. Often overlooked by tourists in favour of Marrakech or Fez, it offers a Moroccan experience that feels refreshingly unhurried. Wandering its medina, I was charmed by the warm greetings of locals, happy to help or simply let me browse their spices, leather and perfumes without the pressure I found elsewhere. Just steps away, the restless Atlantic Ocean provided a peaceful escape, with breezy walks along the shore clearing my mind. The city also has a sleek, modern tram system, making exploration effortless (and even offering free wifi). Visit before the secret gets out.Zoe
We travelled around Morocco last year and were pleasantly surprised by how easy it was to get around by bus and train. We also booked accommodation as we went – hostels and riads. Some of the beautiful riads were tucked away down tiny alleyways; it seemed unbelievable that we'd ever find them. A great place was Atlantic Hostel in Essaouira (£15 per person). It was friendly, simple and clean, and had the most wonderful rooftop terrace. For vegetarian food, we'd recommend Veggie Pause in Fez.Melanie
Taking a seven- and eight-year-old to Marrakech for half-term was, some said, madness. However, we wanted to show our granddaughters life beyond Spain. They delighted us by fearlessly embracing colourful, multi-scented alleyways and bazaars, waterfalls where free-roaming monkeys yanked their pigtails, beautiful Majorelle gardens, calming Berber villages in the Atlas foothills and sunset desert camels. The Bohemian Jungle was our riad base: a magical, fantastic, music-filled paradise with Moroccan ivy reaching from roof garden to pool. The icing on the cake, a dressing-up room!Diana Rees

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a day ago
- The Guardian
‘Sipping a pint while trout splashed in the river on a perfect summer's day': readers' favourite UK waterside pubs
During last month's heatwave I was lucky to cool off at an outside table at the Mayfly on the River Test near Stockbridge. Sipping a refreshing pint while leaping trout splashed in the water gave the scene a feel of the perfect English summer day. There's a nearby weir, and forests and fields stretch into the distance. The pub has friendly staff, plenty of tables and a river-based menu including 'brown butter chalk stream trout fillet' (£20.50) plus pub classics. If the setting inspired you as it did me, there are vineyards nearby to explore and the timber-framed village of Wherwell is just a stroll along the Guardian Travel readers' tips Every week we ask our readers for recommendations from their travels. A selection of tips will be featured online and may appear in print. To enter the latest competition visit the readers' tips homepage - The Minerva stands at the entrance to Hull's trendy marina and has fantastic views over the Humber estuary. It opened in 1829 and is decorated with pictures, photos, maps and shields that celebrate Hull's maritime history. 'The snug' can only fit two people and is claimed to be the smallest pub room in the UK. The staff are brilliant and there's an ever-changing selection of guest ales. Rob The Ferry Tavern is a family-run pub that stands proud on its own island between the River Mersey and the Sankey to St Helen's canal. Although it feels worlds away from nearby built-up areas, it's easily accessible, and best approached on foot or by bike, sitting right on the Trans-Pennine trail. The beer garden stretches along the riverbank, and nursing a pint of ale on a summer evening while looking out across this tranquil section of the Mersey with all its birdlife is serenity. The 300-year-old tavern is all cosy low ceilings and wooden beams, perfection for the Sunday pub quiz, while Foodie Fridays attracts locals to themed cuisine from Mexican to Greek. The rest of the week, however, hot food is not Lunt The 18th-century Blue Lias is a lovely family-run pub on the peaceful banks of the Grand Union canal in the heart of the verdant Warwickshire countryside. It beckoned me towards its outside beer garden as I strolled along the canal with its vibrant flower baskets hanging outside and the welcoming sound of friendly chatter from fellow walkers sipping ale. The pub is named after the clay that's quarried in the area and offers a beautiful, calm ambience on a summer's day with many people arriving on foot or by The Pandora Inn, on the banks of Restronguet creek between Truro and Falmouth, is a fantastic place to watch the world go by. Parts of the pub date back to the 13th century and the flagstone floors and thatched roof ooze history. But for me, the main attraction is the pontoon reaching out into the creek – the perfect place to watch wildlife and the regular clientele arriving by smallboat and kayak. Plus, the cheesy chips are to die for!Matt Croxall One of the best beer gardens and all-round views in the country must be at the Bay Horse on the outskirts of Ulverston. The pub-hotel sits where the Ulverston canal meets the tidal estuary of the River Leven – an idyllic spot between the vast otherworldly expanses of Morecambe Bay and the soaring mountains of the Lake District. Being out of town, it's often quiet with only wading birds and the odd train for company. Being just outside the national park means the prices are also more Cumbrian (cheap) than at tourist traps in the Lakes. Michael Sign up to The Traveller Get travel inspiration, featured trips and local tips for your next break, as well as the latest deals from Guardian Holidays after newsletter promotion The Tarr Farm Inn in Exmoor is in a secluded valley right by Tarr Steps, an ancient clapper bridge across the River Barle. It's a fantastic spot for a dog walk and a pint of local cider while the kids paddle in the stream. The inn dates from the 1600s and serves outstanding food (it was once chosen to provide the VIP catering for Glastonbury festival).Jen The Granta overlooks the Mill Pond and Sheep's Green by the River Cam, and, despite being less than half a mile from the city centre, has countryside pub vibes. During the summer, cows may wander freely on the other side of the pond – old grazing rights are still utilised on Cambridge's commons. Moorhens, mute swans and herons are regular neighbours, the latter often statue-like at the water's edge. The pub's terrace offers a chance to relax with a drink while watching over this watering hole. There's even the chance of a cameo in cobalt from a passing kingfisher: an alternative Cambridge Pinner The William Morris at Merton Abbey Mills in Colliers Wood, south London, is a super-friendly pub next to the River Wandle. There is regular live music, lovely independent shops, and children can watch a watermill and learn about water energy. Although there is lots of traffic not too far way, the actual pub, named after the 19th-century textile designer, is a fab watering hole where you can almost forget about London. A short walk away is the National Trust's Morden Hall Park – you could whet your appetite by going there Piglove by the River sits in the Leeds' Climate Innovation District on the River Aire. It's not just the name that enchants. Owned by two Venezuelans who say they are inspired by the UK's craft beer tradition, Piglove offers small-batch beers brewed on site, rotating weekend street-food trucks, and a programme of tone-perfect events: quiz nights, spoken word, post-run cool-downs, pride marches, and jazz if you time it right. There's a greengrocers, mismatched benches, and the sense that something slightly bonkers might happen at any moment. It's walkable from the city centre, waiting for you to be seduced by the hum of Friday-night gatherings or the scent of pizza wafting over the sunlit water. Eliza Ainley


The Guardian
11-07-2025
- The Guardian
‘Dawn paints the statues gold': readers' favourite places in Turkey
Rising from the rugged heart of Anatolia, Mount Nemrut offers one of the world's most surreal sunrise experiences. Here, colossal stone heads of ancient gods and kings gaze silently across the highlands, remnants of a long-lost kingdom. As the first rays of dawn paint the statues gold, visitors are transported into an almost mythic realm. Begin your journey in Gaziantep, often called Turkey's culinary capital. Savour rich baklava and spicy kebabs before setting out through the hills toward Nemrut. After experiencing the mountain's majesty, continue to Göbekli Tepe – considered the world's oldest temple complex, predating Stonehenge by millennia. Ickin Vural It's become a little more expensive in Turkey recently, so my tip is: eat at the büfeler, where the taxi drivers eat. You find them at every bus station in every town and village. A light lunch of rice with kuru fasulye (beans) on top, perhaps a side of vegetable stew (despite all those kebab shops, Turkish people don't eat as much meat as we like to think), and an ayran (yoghurt drink) on the side would be my idea of a perfect lunch. Afiyet olsun! (enjoy your meal), as they say in Guardian Travel readers' tips Every week we ask our readers for recommendations from their travels. A selection of tips will be featured online and may appear in print. To enter the latest competition visit the readers' tips homepage - Eskişehir is a vibrant, studenty city less than an hour and a half's train ride from Ankara. Its name ('old city') is a clue to the age of the place – it was founded around 1,000BC – but unlike some of the much more visited ruins and ancient cities in Turkey, it is very much a forward-looking, 21st-century place. The Odunpazarı houses in the oldest part of the city are beautifully multicoloured – it is a perfect area to enjoy an obligatory Turkish coffee and piece of lokum (Turkish delight).Michael Kuipers Discover two gems near exquisite Ephesus: Alaçatı, on the coast near İzmir, is a picturesque, sleepy village complete with fresh fish restaurants and sandy beaches; a bit further south is Şirince, a beautiful flower village that stays fresh even through July heatwaves. You can explore the coast, visit thermal baths in spectacular Pamukkale, and Ilıca, or head to the Greek island of Samos for the day, while still savouring the joy of a simpler and more authentic Just above the popular seaside town of Kaş, tucked high in the hills, lie the ancient ruins of Phellos. The steep hike can be tough – especially in the heat – but the reward is worth it. Massive Lycian tombs and weathered stone ruins appear unexpectedly, like a scene from Indiana Jones. With no crowds or noise, it's an off-the-beaten-track adventure into ancient history. If you're seeking something beyond beaches and tourist spots, Phellos offers solitude, mystery and a stunning glimpse into a forgotten Greenwood My top secret Turkey tip would be Mardin, in the south-east. Honey-coloured houses on a hilltop cascade down to the Mesopotamian plateau, and just about every hotel has a terrace with sweeping views across to Syria. The history is a mix of Assyrian, Armenian, Chaldean and, of course Turkish, with museums, medreses and narrow streets. It's a taste of the Middle East but with the safety of travel in Turkey. And the food … Ann Ozsivadjian Sign up to The Traveller Get travel inspiration, featured trips and local tips for your next break, as well as the latest deals from Guardian Holidays after newsletter promotion The Dim River lies on the outskirts of Alanya, in the Antalya region. A short taxi or bus ride will transport you from the bustling seaside town to a cascading waterfall which flows from the Taurus mountains to the Mediterranean Sea. Trees and natural vegetation provide shelter from the searing summer sun, while the waterside restaurants offer traditional Turkish food and drinks. Relax at tables nestled in the trees, perch at the water's edge, or take a dip in a pool filled with icy mountain water – if you dare! Natalie Sea kayaking along Turkey's wild south-west coast from Fethiye is an unforgettable experience. Paddle past hidden coves, ancient ruins and dramatic cliffs, before friendly local guides prepare delicious traditional Turkish meals, and the sunsets glow deep red over crystal waters. Fethiye is a culturally rich town nestled between mountains and the sea, and the perfect launch point for a trip. If you're after beauty, solitude and authentic connection, this is We visited Antalya in February, and viewing some of the ancient sites on a crisp, sunny day with snow on the mountains in the background was brilliant. But the highlight of our trip was taking a hike in the Mount Güllük-Termessos national park to see the ancient Solymi city of Termessos, and particularly the stunning theatre, set atop the mountain with panoramic views. You pass many interesting ruins on the way up, but this is the jewel in the crown. We went on our own, but if you want to make a day of it I'd suggest joining a hiking group for an in-depth On a spontaneous road trip through Turkey's south-west, I stumbled upon Akyaka – a peaceful, pine-fringed village untouched by mass tourism. The Azmak River, so clear it seemed unreal, flowed past riverside cafes where I watched turtles drift by. Locals welcomed me like family, and evenings meant fresh seafood and golden sunsets. The architecture – wooden houses with carved balconies – gave the town a timeless charm. Paddleboarding on the calm sea at sunrise was a moment I'll never forget. Debbie Skudra


The Guardian
11-07-2025
- The Guardian
‘Dawn paints the statues gold': readers' favourite places in Turkey
Rising from the rugged heart of Anatolia, Mount Nemrut offers one of the world's most surreal sunrise experiences. Here, colossal stone heads of ancient gods and kings gaze silently across the highlands, remnants of a long-lost kingdom. As the first rays of dawn paint the statues gold, visitors are transported into an almost mythic realm. Begin your journey in Gaziantep, often called Turkey's culinary capital. Savour rich baklava and spicy kebabs before setting out through the hills toward Nemrut. After experiencing the mountain's majesty, continue to Göbekli Tepe – considered the world's oldest temple complex, predating Stonehenge by millennia. Ickin Vural It's become a little more expensive in Turkey recently, so my tip is: eat at the büfeler, where the taxi drivers eat. You find them at every bus station in every town and village. A light lunch of rice with kuru fasulye (beans) on top, perhaps a side of vegetable stew (despite all those kebab shops, Turkish people don't eat as much meat as we like to think), and an ayran (yoghurt drink) on the side would be my idea of a perfect lunch. Afiyet olsun! (enjoy your meal), as they say in Guardian Travel readers' tips Every week we ask our readers for recommendations from their travels. A selection of tips will be featured online and may appear in print. To enter the latest competition visit the readers' tips homepage - Eskişehir is a vibrant, studenty city less than an hour and a half's train ride from Ankara. Its name ('old city') is a clue to the age of the place – it was founded around 1,000BC – but unlike some of the much more visited ruins and ancient cities in Turkey, it is very much a forward-looking, 21st-century place. The Odunpazarı houses in the oldest part of the city are beautifully multicoloured – it is a perfect area to enjoy an obligatory Turkish coffee and piece of lokum (Turkish delight).Michael Kuipers Discover two gems near exquisite Ephesus: Alaçatı, on the coast near İzmir, is a picturesque, sleepy village complete with fresh fish restaurants and sandy beaches; a bit further south is Şirince, a beautiful flower village that stays fresh even through July heatwaves. You can explore the coast, visit thermal baths in spectacular Pamukkale, and Ilıca, or head to the Greek island of Samos for the day, while still savouring the joy of a simpler and more authentic Just above the popular seaside town of Kaş, tucked high in the hills, lie the ancient ruins of Phellos. The steep hike can be tough – especially in the heat – but the reward is worth it. Massive Lycian tombs and weathered stone ruins appear unexpectedly, like a scene from Indiana Jones. With no crowds or noise, it's an off-the-beaten-track adventure into ancient history. If you're seeking something beyond beaches and tourist spots, Phellos offers solitude, mystery and a stunning glimpse into a forgotten Greenwood My top secret Turkey tip would be Mardin, in the south-east. Honey-coloured houses on a hilltop cascade down to the Mesopotamian plateau, and just about every hotel has a terrace with sweeping views across to Syria. The history is a mix of Assyrian, Armenian, Chaldean and, of course Turkish, with museums, medreses and narrow streets. It's a taste of the Middle East but with the safety of travel in Turkey. And the food … Ann Ozsivadjian Sign up to The Traveller Get travel inspiration, featured trips and local tips for your next break, as well as the latest deals from Guardian Holidays after newsletter promotion The Dim River lies on the outskirts of Alanya, in the Antalya region. A short taxi or bus ride will transport you from the bustling seaside town to a cascading waterfall which flows from the Taurus mountains to the Mediterranean Sea. Trees and natural vegetation provide shelter from the searing summer sun, while the waterside restaurants offer traditional Turkish food and drinks. Relax at tables nestled in the trees, perch at the water's edge, or take a dip in a pool filled with icy mountain water – if you dare! Natalie Sea kayaking along Turkey's wild south-west coast from Fethiye is an unforgettable experience. Paddle past hidden coves, ancient ruins and dramatic cliffs, before friendly local guides prepare delicious traditional Turkish meals, and the sunsets glow deep red over crystal waters. Fethiye is a culturally rich town nestled between mountains and the sea, and the perfect launch point for a trip. If you're after beauty, solitude and authentic connection, this is We visited Antalya in February, and viewing some of the ancient sites on a crisp, sunny day with snow on the mountains in the background was brilliant. But the highlight of our trip was taking a hike in the Mount Güllük-Termessos national park to see the ancient Solymi city of Termessos, and particularly the stunning theatre, set atop the mountain with panoramic views. You pass many interesting ruins on the way up, but this is the jewel in the crown. We went on our own, but if you want to make a day of it I'd suggest joining a hiking group for an in-depth On a spontaneous road trip through Turkey's south-west, I stumbled upon Akyaka – a peaceful, pine-fringed village untouched by mass tourism. The Azmak River, so clear it seemed unreal, flowed past riverside cafes where I watched turtles drift by. Locals welcomed me like family, and evenings meant fresh seafood and golden sunsets. The architecture – wooden houses with carved balconies – gave the town a timeless charm. Paddleboarding on the calm sea at sunrise was a moment I'll never forget. Debbie Skudra