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History Today: When the bikini was first introduced in Paris and revolutionised women's fashion
Contestants pose for a group photo for the swimsuit section of the Miss Universe pageant in Cancun, Mexico, May 11, 2007. File Image/Reuters
As part of Firstpost's History Today series, July 5 ranks as a culturally transformative date.
In 1946, in post‑war Paris, the daring debut of the bikini by engineer Louis Réard stirred waves across fashion and women's liberation.
Five decades later, in 1996, Dolly the sheep was born near Edinburgh — the first mammal cloned from an adult somatic cell.
On July 5, 1975, Arthur Ashe became the first Black man to win Wimbledon, and in 1962, Algeria officially attained independence from France after a brutal war.
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The bikini debuts in Paris
On a sunny afternoon in July 1946, the tranquil elegance of Paris was upended by the unveiling of a swimsuit so daring it would reverberate through fashion — and cultural history.
At the Piscine Molitor, a glamorous Art Deco pool in the 16th arrondissement, French engineer-turned-fashion designer Louis Réard introduced what he called the bikini — a two-piece swimsuit revealing the wearer's navel for the first time in swimwear.
The aftermath of World War II set the stage for radical change in social norms. Fabric rationing during the war led to minimalist swimwear trends in the 1930s, a precursor to what was to come.
Two French designers — Jacques Heim, who launched the 'Atome' swimsuit that left the navel covered, and Réard, who aimed for something far more audacious — seized upon the era's growing appetite for liberation.
Réard, who ran a lingerie shop left to him by his mother near the Folies Bergère, was struck by women at St. Tropez tucking in their swimwear at the waist to tan their midriffs.
Inspired, he engineered a garment with minimal fabric — just 30 square inches, connected by strings — that would break all sensual and sartorial boundaries.
The choice of name was deliberate and provocative. On July 1, 1946, the US had conducted Operation Crossroads atomic tests at Bikini Atoll.
Réard seized on the pun — his swimsuit would have a similarly explosive impact on fashion consciousness. Named 'bikini,' it linked a physical revelation with nuclear symbolic force.
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Réard needed a grand stage: Piscine Molitor — nicknamed the 'White Ocean Liner' — an Art Deco landmark reopened after German occupation, brimming with Parisian elegance and optimism.
To generate maximum attention, Réard scheduled an outdoor press preview on July 5. But no professional model would step forward for such a scandalous design.
Finally, he recruited Micheline Bernardini, an exotic dancer at the Casino de Paris. At 19 years old, she became the face of this new swimwear era.
Bernardini emerged onto the pool deck wearing a newsprint-patterned bikini that left her midriff — and, shockingly (at the time), her navel — bare.
Micheline Bernardini wearing the first bikini in 1946. The new 'Bikini' swimming costume (in a newsprint-patterned fabric), which caused a sensation at a beauty contest at the Molitor swimming pool in Paris. She is holding a small box into which the entire costume can be packed. File Image/Hulton Archive
A hush fell over the audience: 3,000 spectators and the press, stunned and captivated. It was the smallest swimsuit ever seen in swimwear, one Réard dared say could 'be pulled through a wedding ring.'
The reaction was electric. Conservative European nations — Italy, Spain, Belgium — banned the garment on moral grounds.
Catholic leaders denounced it as immodest.
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American newspapers initially ignored the reveal, focusing on the nuclear tests. But gradually, the bikini's shockwaves spread internationally.
History Extra noted Réard's flair for publicity — skywriters advertised the bikini above Cannes with slogans like 'smaller than the world's smallest bathing suit.'
Media outlets responded: Micheline Bernardini received over 50,000 fan letters, primarily from men, as the suit sparked both fascination and scandal.
Despite early resistance, the bikini began to permeate beach culture — first on the Mediterranean and then globally.
By the 1950s and 1960s, Hollywood icons like Brigitte Bardot and Ursula Andress wore bikinis onscreen, normalising them and reinforcing their association with youth and modern freedom.
Bardot in particular popularised the bikini's French Riviera chic, while Andress's white bikini in Dr. No (James Bond) became a fashion milestone.
Still in the US, the bikini remained controversial until the sexual revolution of the 1960s, when increased emphasis on sexual liberation propelled its adoption in mainstream American beaches.
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Réard understood that sensationalism sold. He patented the bikini on July 19, 1946, and kept fuelling its mystique through clever marketing: the wedding-ring slogan, skywriting campaigns, flamboyant promotional vehicles (like a Packard 'road yacht' carrying bikini-clad models) and celebrity endorsements.
The original design — four triangles, string-joined, newsprint-clad — highlighted Réard's engineering background, merging technical minimalism with striking aesthetics.
Its intentional contrast to conservative one-pieces was a statement of modernity.
Decades later, Réard's bikini endures. International Bikini Day is celebrated annually on July 5, honouring the radical spirit of Réard's unveiling.
The bikini remains a billion-dollar industry and a symbol of feminist empowerment and body positivity — though its cultural journey reflects ongoing tensions around modesty, sexuality and female representation.
Academic studies highlight its significance: Réard's garment sparked 'a psychological link between atomic destruction and sexuality,' and scholar Diana Vreeland dubbed it the 'atom bomb of fashion.'
He successfully trivialised nuclear dread by fusing it with liberation and desire.
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As women reclaimed their bodies and public spaces, the bikini became host, symbol, and testament to a shifting world.
Réard's engineering genius and daring marketing acumen ensured its lasting place in history — and in wardrobes worldwide.
Dolly the sheep is born
On July 5, 1996, at the Roslin Institute near Edinburgh, scientists made history with the birth of Dolly the Finn-Dorset sheep, the world's first mammal cloned from an adult somatic cell.
The world's first clone of an adult animal, Dolly the sheep, stands in her pen at the Roslin Institute in Edinburgh, February 23, 1997. File Image/Reuters
Born from a mammary gland cell wired into an enucleated egg and implanted in a surrogate, Dolly shattered scientific dogma: mature cells could be reprogrammed to create a whole organism.
Her 1997 unveiling sparked controversy and excitement. Though not the first clone, Dolly proved adult-cell cloning was viable, opening avenues in stem-cell research and ethics.
She gave birth to six lambs and lived until 2003, but suffered lung disease possibly linked to premature ageing.
Professor Ian Wilmut is reflected in a mirror as he poses for photographs after a news conference in Edinburgh, February 8, 2005. Wilmut who created Dolly the sheep, the world's first cloned mammal, was granted a licence to clone human embryos for medical research. File Image/Reuters
Today, Dolly's preserved remains stand at the National Museum of Scotland as a symbol of scientific breakthrough.
Arthur Ashe wins Wimbledon
On July 5, 1975, Arthur Ashe, an American tennis pioneer, stunned the world by becoming the first Black man to win the Wimbledon Men's Singles title, defeating reigning champ Jimmy Connors in four sets (6–1, 6–1, 5–7, 6–4).
Ashe, who had already made history by winning the US Open in 1968 and Australian Open in 1970, overcame discrimination and segregation en route to the Centre Court victory .
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His triumph transcended sport: Ashe became a global symbol of racial equality and leadership, publicly advocating for civil rights and AIDS awareness.
His Wimbledon win remains a celebrated milestone in tennis as well as in the struggle for social justice. The main stadium of the US Open tennis tournament is named after Ashe.
Jeanne Moutoussamy-Ashe, widow of the late Arthur Ashe, sits next to a plaque that was unveiled at the formal dedication of the new Arthur Ashe Stadium at the at the US Open in New York, August 25, 1997. The tribute included over 40 past champions of the US Open. File Image/Reuters
Algeria gains independence
On July 5, 1962, Algeria officially gained independence from France after a protracted eight-year liberation war, marking the end of 132 years of colonial rule.
The conflict began in November 1954, with the FLN waging fierce guerrilla tactics. It drew international attention for its brutality — both French repression and FLN terrorism.
Following a 1962 referendum granting self-determination, France recognised independence on July 3, and Algeria celebrated on July 5 — the anniversary of France's 1830 invasion, symbolically reclaiming the date.
The first President, Ahmed Ben Bella, called on Algerians to 'build history with our hands.'
Independence Day remains a cornerstone of Algerian national identity.
With inputs from agencies
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Time of India
2 hours ago
- Time of India
Interstellar at 89? Oppenheimer at 65? NYT's 100 best films of 21st century leaves cinephiles divided
Cinephiles are debating over the best films of the 21st century. As we near the end of the first quarter of the 21st century, The New York Times has done what cinephiles love most, compiled a 'best of' list. This time, it isn't for the past year, but for the past 25 years in cinema. While some movie lovers eagerly tallied how many titles they've seen and bookmarked the rest, others were quick to object to the absence of their personal favourites. How did they come up with the list To determine the best films of the past 25 years, The New York Times polled over 500 filmmakers, actors, and other prominent figures from the film industry. Each participant was asked to name their 10 favourite films released since January 1, 2000. The responses were then compiled by the NYT, in collaboration with The Upshot, to create the final list of 100. Notable voters included Oscar-winning directors like Bong Joon Ho, Pedro Almodóvar, Sofia Coppola, Barry Jenkins, and Guillermo del Toro, along with actors such as Chiwetel Ejiofor, Julianne Moore, Michaela Jaé Rodriguez, and John Turturro. Key takeaways from the list Franchise fatigue is real The list barely has reboots, remakes, and franchise-driven films - which have become a staple in Hollywood. by Taboola by Taboola Sponsored Links Sponsored Links Promoted Links Promoted Links You May Like One plan. Total peace of mind. ICICI Pru Life Insurance Plan Get Quote Undo Traditional star vehicles, too, were limited. OTT films are nearly absent While streaming platforms have significantly reshaped how we consume movies, their presence on the list is minimal. Only one film produced by a streaming service, Netflix, made the cut: Alfonso Cuarón's Roma at No. 46. Only 11 films directed by women Only 11 of the films were directed by women, including Lost in Translation (2003) by Sofia Coppola, Lady Bird (2017) by Greta Gerwig, Past Lives (2023) by Celine Song, and none were in the Top 20. World cinema is thriving Cinephiles are no longer confined to English-language films - world cinema has become a compelling destination. The list reflects this shift, with titles like Parasite (Korean), Roma (Spanish), Anatomy of a Fall (French), The Zone of Interest (German), Portrait of a Lady on Fire (French), and The Worst Person in the World (Norwegian) earning spots. Even Everything Everywhere All At Once blends Mandarin, Cantonese, and English, while much of Céline Song's 2023 drama Past Lives unfolds in Korean. Diverse voices are there, but not many Only four Black directors have movies on the list, Barry Jenkins (Moonlight), Jordan Peele (Get Out), Steve McQueen (12 Years a Slave), Ryan Coogler (Black Panther). The auteurs dominate Christopher Nolan (Inception, Memento) leads the pack with five films - a clear nod to his unmatched grip on both critics and audiences. Not far behind is Paul Thomas Anderson (Phantom Thread, Punch-Drunk Love), followed by Alfonso Cuarón and David Fincher with three entries each. With 5 Films, Christopher Nolan leads the list Cinephiles debate films on the list As with any 'best of' list, consensus is elusive. Cinephiles have taken to social media to debate the rankings. Some were shocked by certain placements, 'Interstellar at 89???' wrote one Instagram user, while others questioned the inclusion of titles in the Top 10, 'The Social Network and Get Out… really?' Cinephiles are divided over ranking of their favourites and some surprising omissions from NYT's 100 Best Films of 21st century list. While some viewers were thrilled to see their tastes reflected by renowned filmmakers, others were quick to share what they felt was missing. Among the frequently mentioned omissions are Blade Runner 2049, Joker, Anora, Pride and Prejudice. A new list based on readers' view After the original list, NYT did a readers' poll, in which over 200,000 people participated. In the readers' list there are several films that didn't make it to the original 100 – Sinners, Barbie, Mean Girls, not one but two Dune movies, Django Unchained, Little Women, Hereditary, Blade Runner 2049, Avengers: Endgame — and international films like Drive My Car and The Handmaiden. Christopher Nolan crushed it again, landing two titles in the top 10 — Interstellar and The Dark Knight — and an impressive seven films in the Top 100. Films like Parasite, Mulholland Drive, The Social Network stood firm in their rankings. Here are the top 10 from the new list: 1. Parasite 2. Mulholland Drive 3. No Country for Old Men 4. There Will Be Blood 5. Interstellar 6. The Dark Knight 7. Mad Max: Fury Road 8. Spirited Away 9. Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind 10. The Social Network The 100 best movies of the 21st century as per the New York Times 01. Parasite (Bong Joon Ho) 02. Mulholland Drive (David Lynch) 03. There Will Be Blood (Paul Thomas Anderson) 04. In the Mood For Love (Wong Kar Wai) 05. Moonlight (Barry Jenkins) 06. No Country For Old Men (Joel & Ethan Coen) 07. Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind (Michel Gondry) 08. Get Out (Jordan Peele) 09. Spirited Away (Hayao Miyazaki) 10. The Social Network (David Fincher) 11. Mad Max: Fury Road (George Miller) 12. The Zone of Interest (Jonathan Glazer) 13. Children of Men (Alfonso Cuaron) 14. Inglourious Basterds (Quentin Tarantino) 15. City of God (Fernando Meirelles) 16. Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon (Ang Lee) 17. Brokeback Mountain (Ang Lee) 18. Y Tu Mama Tambien (Alfonso Cuaron) 19. Zodiac (David Fincher) 20. The Wolf of Wall Street (Martin Scorsese) 21. The Royal Tenenbaums (Wes Anderson) 22. The Grand Budapest Hotel (Wes Anderson) 23. Boyhood (Richard Linklater) 24. Her (Spike Jonze) 25. Phantom Thread (Paul Thomas Anderson) 26. Anatomy of a Fall (Justine Triet) 27. Adaptation (Spike Jonze) 28. The Dark Knight (Christopher Nolan) 29. Arrival (Denis Villeneuve) 30. Lost in Translation (Sofia Coppola) 31. The Departed (Martin Scorsese) 32. Bridesmaids (Paul Feig) 33. A Separation (Asghar Farhadi) 34. WALL-E Andrew Stanton) 35. A Prophet (Jacques Audiard) 36. A Serious Man (Joel & Ethan Coen) 37. Call Me By Your Name (Luca Guadagnino) 38. Portrait of A Lady on Fire (Celine Sciamma) 39. Lady Bird (Greta Gerwig) 40. Yi Yi (Edward Yang) 41. Amelie (Jean-Pierre Jeunet) 42. The Master (Paul Thomas Anderson) 43. Oldboy (Park Chan-wook) 44. Once Upon A Time in Hollywood (Quentin Tarantino) 45. Moneyball (Bennett Miller) 46. ROMA (Alfonso Cuaron) 47. Almost Famous (Cameron Crowe) 48. The Lives of Others (Florian Henckel Von Donnersmarck) 49. Before Sunset (Richard Linklater) 50. Up! (Pete Docter) 51. 12 Years A Slave (Steve McQueen) 52. The Favourite (Yorgos Lanthimos) 53. Borat (Larry Charles) 54. Pan's Labyrinth (Guillermo Del Toro) 55. Inception (Christopher Nolan) 56. Punch-Drunk Love (Paul Thomas Anderson) 57. Best in Show (Christopher Guest) 58. Uncut Gems (Josh and Benny Safdie) 59. Toni Erdmann (Maren Ade) 60. Whiplash (Damien Chazelle) 61. Kill Bill Vol. 1 (Quentin Tarantino) 62. Memento (Christopher Nolan) 63. Little Miss Sunshine (Dayton & Faris) 64. Gone Girl (David Fincher) 65. Oppenheimer (Christopher Nolan) 66. Spotlight (Tom McCarthy) 67. TAR (Todd Field) 68. The Hurt Locker (Kathryn Bigelow) 69. Under The Skin (Jonathan Glazer) 70. Let The Right One In (Tomas Alfredson) 71. Ocean's Eleven (Steven Soderbergh) 72. Carol (Todd Haynes) 73. Ratatouille (Brad Bird) 74. The Florida Project (Sean Baker) 75. Amour (Michael Haneke) 76. O Brother, Where Art Thou (Joel & Ethan Coen) 77. Everything Everywhere All At Once (The Daniels) 78. Aftersun (Charlotte Wells) 79. Tree of Life (Terrence Malick) 80. Volver (Pedro Almodovar) 81. Black Swan (Darren Aronofsky) 82. The Act of Killing (Joshua Oppenheimer) 83. Inside Llewyn Davis (Joel & Ethan Coen) 84. Melancholia (Lars Von Trier) 85. Anchorman (Adam McKay) 86. Past Lives (Celine Song) 87. The Fellowship of the Ring (Peter Jackson) 88. The Gleaners and I (Agnes Varda) 89. Interstellar (Christopher Nolan) 90. Frances Ha (Noah Baumbach) 91. Fish Tank (Andrea Arnold) 92. Gladiator (Ridley Scott) 93. Michael Clayton (Tony Gilroy) 94. Minority Report (Steven Spielberg) 95. The Worst Person in the World (Joachim Trier) 96. Black Panther (Ryan Coogler) 97. Gravity (Alfonso Cuaron) 98. Grizzly Man (Werner Herzog) 99. Memories of A Murder (Bong Joon-ho) 100. Superbad (Greg Motolla)
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First Post
2 hours ago
- First Post
Volcano eruption, series of earthquakes in Japan: Is manga artist's prediction coming true?
A series of earthquakes near Japan's remote Tokara Islands over the past two weeks, along with a major eruption from a long-dormant volcano earlier this week, has added to growing speculation about a disaster striking Japan on July 5. The rumours are linked to manga artist Ryo Tatsuki's work 'The Future I Saw', where she predicted a tsunami three times stronger than the one in 2011. Her fans claim some of her earlier predictions have already come true read more A combination of images showing the eruption of Mount Shinmoedake this week and a road damaged in Nishiaraya, Ishikawa Prefecture, due to the January 2024 earthquake. Image: X and Reuters/File Photo A series of earthquakes near Japan's remote Tokara Islands, along with a major eruption from a long-dormant volcano, has further fuelled speculation about a disaster striking Japan on July 5. This speculation is partly driven by manga artist Ryo Tatsuki, whose earlier work is believed by many to have predicted the 2011 disaster. She has now suggested that another major event could strike Japan in early July. In her 2021 manga, The Future I Saw, she wrote about a crack forming under the sea between Japan and the Philippines. This, she said, would lead to a tsunami three times stronger than the one in 2011. STORY CONTINUES BELOW THIS AD ALSO READ | Japan warns of megaquake that could kill 300,000 along Nankai Trough: What is it? Seismologists have not found any connection between the current activity and the prediction. But the timing of the events has left some members of the public uneasy, as it matches closely with the widely shared warning from Tatsuki. So, what's happening in Japan? What is the manga artist's prediction, and how credible is it? We answer all the questions below: Series of earthquakes, volcano eruption: What's happening in Japan? Mount Shinmoedake erupted on Thursday, sending a powerful blast into the sky and a thick cloud of ash, making it one of its most intense eruptions in recent years. Japan's Meteorological Agency has warned of falling volcanic rocks and fast-moving flows within about two miles of the volcano. This afternoon: A powerful eruption occurred at Mount Kirishima's Shinmoedake crater at 1:49 PM (local time). Volcanic smoke rose an estimated 5,000 meters into the sky. Ongoing activity continues to be closely monitored.( July 03, 2025) 📍 Shinmoedake, Kyushu, Japan — Weather Monitor (@WeatherMonitors) July 3, 2025 Notably, Mount Shinmoedake, located in the Kirishima range between Kagoshima and Miyazaki prefectures, had last erupted in 2018. It became active again on June 22. Officials have advised people in the area to remain indoors and be ready for emergencies. The explosion covered parts of Miyazaki and Kagoshima in heavy ash. The Meteorological Agency had raised the alert level to three on June 27 after signs of growing volcanic activity were noticed. STORY CONTINUES BELOW THIS AD Shimizu Hiroshi, head of the monitoring committee, said: 'While this eruption doesn't currently involve new magma, the possibility remains. Close monitoring is essential.' Authorities are keeping a constant watch on the mountain as people stay alert for possible aftershocks. Meanwhile, more than 1,000 earthquakes have been recorded on a small island in southern Japan, leading to evacuations. An official told AFP that people on Akuseki Island were asked to move to a school playground for safety. Akuseki is part of the Tokara island group, located south of the Kyushu region. Since June 21, the area has seen 1,031 quakes. What is the prediction by 'Japanese Baba Vanga'? Fans of manga artist Ryo Tatsuki believe many of her predictions, based on dreams and featured in her comic books, have come true in the past. Because of this, some now call her the 'Japanese Baba Vanga', a nod to the late Bulgarian mystic who was said to have predicted major events like the 9/11 attacks, the rise of ISIS, and Barack Obama's election. ALSO READ | When a powerful earthquake and tsunami triggered the Fukushima nuclear disaster in Japan In one of her manga stories, Tatsuki writes about a deep crack forming under the sea between Japan and the Philippines. STORY CONTINUES BELOW THIS AD Whether it comes to pass or not, it's having an effect on air travel in Japan. The Future That I Saw 👁️ Japanese Comic Predicts Massive Disaster for July 2025 (July 5, 2025 at 4:18 a.m.) Retired comic artist Ryo Tatsuki claims that she has been having prophetic dreams for… — UFO CHRONICLES PODCAST🎙️𝕏 (@UFOchronpodcast) July 3, 2025 She says this would trigger huge waves, three times higher than those that struck Japan in the 2011 tsunami. The prediction has gone viral across East Asia. Thousands of videos have been shared online in countries like Hong Kong, Taiwan, China, and South Korea. On X, many users have linked this claim to concerns about a potential megaquake in the Nankai Trough. STORY CONTINUES BELOW THIS AD What authorities and Tatsuki are saying Ryo Tatsuki has asked people not to treat her prediction too seriously. In a recent interview, she said people should stay calm and rely on experts instead of her visions. Seismologists have also rejected any connection between her prediction and recent seismic activity. They say there is no scientific way to predict exactly when, where, or how strong an earthquake will be. Ayataka Ebita, director of the earthquake and tsunami observation division at Japan's Meteorological Agency, told AFP: 'We are aware that such tales are circulating, but that is a hoax.' He added, 'With today's science and technology, it is not possible to predict earthquakes.' The Japan Meteorological Agency also issued a statement online saying: 'Any such predictions should be considered unreliable.' The rumour has still had an impact. Tourism from East Asia has dropped sharply. According to Bloomberg Intelligence, bookings from Hong Kong are down by 50 per cent compared to 2024. Between late June and early July, the fall is as steep as 83 per cent. Japan's megaquake warning that could kill 300,000 In April this year, the Japanese government released a report warning of the devastating effects if a powerful earthquake hits the Nankai Trough, a region off the country's Pacific coast. The report warned of possible losses worth $1.81 trillion and said up to 300,000 people could die if the feared quake were to strike. STORY CONTINUES BELOW THIS AD Japan faces frequent earthquakes due to its location. Experts say there is an 80 per cent chance of a magnitude 8 to 9 quake in the Nankai Trough. Japan sits on four major tectonic plates, making it one of the most seismically active places on Earth. Reuters/File Photo This undersea trench stretches about 800 kilometres, from Hyuganada near Kyushu to Suruga Bay in central Japan. The country has suffered major disasters in the past, including the March 2011 earthquake and tsunami, which led to the Fukushima nuclear crisis. That 9.0-magnitude quake caused the worst nuclear accident since Chernobyl. Notably, Japan sits at the meeting point of four major tectonic plates, making it one of the world's most earthquake-prone nations. With inputs from agencies


Mint
2 hours ago
- Mint
Why There Isn't a Best Chef in the World
(Bloomberg Opinion) -- In victory, top chefs are much like the classiest of professional tennis players: self-deprecatory, admiring of their rivals, grateful to their teachers. Two weeks ago, just after his restaurant Maido was proclaimed No. 1 among the 50 Best Restaurants in the World at a ceremony in Turin, Italy, Mitsuharu Tsumura told me, 'There is competition, but when you finish, you shake hands, you have a beer.' Unlike tennis and other sports, though, the world of haute cuisine doesn't really have a universally recognized ranking system like the Association of Tennis Professionals and the Women's Tennis Association. For those who point to the Michelin Guide, I will politely say the French tire company provides ratings not rankings. The 50 Best franchise certainly provides a glitzy showcase for some of the finest eating establishments in the world, but it's incomprehensive. The list has lots of Latin American representation, like Maido in Peru, but sparse North American luminaries. (One of my favorites, Atomix in New York City, placed 12th this year, dropping six spots; the next US restaurant isn't even in the top 50: Single Thread in Healdsburg, California, at 80.) Once upon a time, the best chef in the world was whoever was at the top of the French culinary universe. Paul Bocuse — who died in 2018 and whose name is enshrined in the Bocuse D'Or cooking competition in his native Lyon — was perhaps the most infallible of these culinary arbiters of fine dining. However, for about a three-decade span — from the very end of the 20th century to the onset of the Covid-19 pandemic — there was wide consensus that two non-French cooks were the world's most influential chefs. For the first half of the period, it was Ferran Adria of El Bulli in Spain. For the second half, it was Rene Redzepi of Noma in Copenhagen. Their primacy is reflected in the history of the 50 Best: Adria has won the top spot five times; Redzepi has done it four times. In 2019, the organization changed its rules, automatically promoting all past and future top-notchers into a 'Best of the Best' hall of fame. It was a way of getting new restaurants into the rankings while assuaging the older guard with apotheosis. The reform was a polite way to freshen up the list, but it unwittingly reflects a real change in the nature of the culinary world, one effected by the legacies of Adria and Redzepi. Let me summarize it by way of an anecdote. During a dinner, the Spanish chef, who is a friend, turned to me with one of the terrifying restaurant history questions he likes to hurl at friend and foe alike. Get the answer right and you are golden. Get it wrong and you'll get an hourlong lecture to set you right. 'What is the greatest lesson of El Bulli?' he asked me. Fortunately, a couple of months before, I had heard the answer — from Rene Redzepi. The Dane, whom I also consider a friend, had worked briefly in Adria's kitchen and has feted the Spaniard on his birthday at Noma. And so, I repeated what I'd learned: 'The most important rule of El Bulli is that there are no rules.' Adria smiled approvingly and I got no lecture. Adria dethroned the French as world champions with his genre-busting kitchen techniques; and Redzepi pushed the revolution further by turning Nordic notions into haute cuisine, further showing everyone that their local cuisines too could become global standard-bearers. You didn't have to be French — or Spanish or Danish. Today, I find it quite moving that among the James Beard Awards and nominations for best restaurants in the various US regions were establishments serving Filipino, Tamil, Thai, Korean, Mexican, Vietnamese and a host of other non-European cuisines. It's also inspiring that one of the chefs who got the most attention at the Turin ceremony was Pichaya Soontornyanakij and her restaurant Potong in Bangkok. Ikoyi, the highest-placed London restaurant at 15, has its roots in West African cooking. A quick round of interviews with top contenders for the 50 Best revealed a consensus for the cuisines with increasing global influence: Mexican, Chinese, Korean and Indian. It's going to be hard to figure on parameters that will allow you judge whether the wok hei technique of a Hong Kong chef is better than the bhuna caramelization of a top restaurant in Mumbai. Even as all this decentralization continues, the world of chefs seems to be settling into two semi-ideological camps. Or perhaps the word is egocentric. The 50 Best appears to be a favorite annual stop of Adria; his disciples have followed. Meanwhile, a more nebulous but just as influential group gathers around Redzepi, who not only has been taking Noma around the world (Kyoto last year; Los Angeles next) but also this year revived the MAD Symposium, which was legendary in the 2010s for allowing chefs to voice big and deep thoughts. Both men continue to project their authority and personality onto a cooking universe without a center of gravity. But chefs still like prizes — especially those with the label 'best.' I started this column with tennis players. If you believe that they are as gracious in private as their victorious personas on the podium, well, you haven't been watching enough matches with the athletes grunting, growling and scowling. Chefs share the same passions and instincts. This year at the 50 Best, a popular expectation was that the No. 1 spot would go to Bittor Arginzoniz's Asador Etxebarri in Spain's Basque country. Maido, with its celebration of Peru's Japanese immigrant Nikkei cuisine, has been working its way up the list for years, but Etxebarri, with its innovative grilling, has been one of the most influential restaurants in the world for a long time. Its chef is also famously fiery and competitive. So, despite his smiling demeanor in Turin, he was probably unhappy that the restaurant came in at No. 2. One foodie friend — who asked not to be named because he knows too many sensitive chefs — quipped that 'Bittor is probably so mad at the snub that he's only going to make Etxebarri better than ever, just to show everyone up. Better book a table now.' More From Bloomberg Opinion: This column reflects the personal views of the author and does not necessarily reflect the opinion of the editorial board or Bloomberg LP and its owners. Howard Chua-Eoan is a columnist for Bloomberg Opinion covering culture and business. He previously served as Bloomberg Opinion's international editor and is a former news director at Time magazine. More stories like this are available on