Modern Indian flavours: Laal maas to tandoori

Hans India

30-05-2025

India's culinary tradition, a diverse and deeply rooted mosaic of regional flavors, is undergoing a transformation. As chefs reinterpret classics and diners grow more adventurous, a new language of Indian cuisine is emerging—one that bridges heritage with innovation, memory with technique, and spice with subtlety. From fiery Laal Maas to experimental tandoori creations with avocado mousse or truffle oil, Indian food is no longer confined to the rigid borders of tradition.
The evolution of tradition
Laal Maas, a quintessential Rajasthani dish, symbolizes the fiery and bold essence of Indian regional cooking. Made with mutton, red chillies, and ghee, it's a dish steeped in history—believed to have originated in royal kitchens to cater to the meat-loving Rajputs. Its aggressive heat and rustic depth once defined it as unapproachable for the untrained palate. But in today's upscale restaurants, Laal Maas is being reinvented: it may arrive slow-cooked for 12 hours, served with saffron-infused millet khichdi or pearl onions caramelized in jaggery.
What's changing is not just the presentation or pairing, but the philosophy. Today's Indian chefs are less interested in merely preserving recipes. They are keen on translating tradition into a contemporary experience. The result is not fusion, but evolution.
Global techniques, local ingredients
This new wave of culinary innovation is built on the backbone of traditional knowledge, but it draws techniques from around the world. Sous-vide goat curry, deconstructed samosas, or tandoori broccoli with parmesan shavings are examples of how Indian cuisine is integrating modern gastronomy.
Tandoor: From heat to art
The tandoor, once a backyard or dhaba staple, has been reborn in restaurant kitchens as a tool of creative expression. Traditionally used for meats and breads, the tandoor is now applied to fruits, cheeses, and even desserts.
Take, for example, tandoori pineapple carpaccio served with smoked yogurt and black salt caramel—a dish that plays with the charred sweetness of the fruit and the creaminess of dairy in unexpected ways. Or tandoori brie stuffed kulchas paired with tomato-thyme chutney. This shift repositions tandoor from a rustic cooking method to a fine-tuned instrument of flavor design.
Even vegetarian dishes—long overshadowed in discussions of Indian meat curries—are finding bold new identities through tandoori techniques. Tandoori beetroot, lotus stem, and okra are not just substitutions but stars in their own right, proving that innovation is not about imitation, but reinterpretation.
The Diners Have Changed Too
This renaissance in Indian cuisine is also consumer-driven. Today's diners, especially the urban, millennial, and Gen Z crowd, are curious and informed. They want food with stories, experiences that resonate, and meals that reflect identity—both individual and cultural.
Menus now often come with annotations, listing the origins of ingredients or explaining the historical significance of a dish. This educative approach has fostered a deeper appreciation for regional cuisines that were once underrepresented—such as Naga pork, Goan cafreal, or Himachali dham.
Instagram has also played its part—plating is more artistic, colors more vivid, and flavors more layered to appeal to a visual and sensory audience.
A Language Beyond Borders
As Indian cuisine is redefined, it's also finding new expressions globally. London, New York, Dubai, and Melbourne have seen a rise in restaurants that offer 'New Indian' menus. These are not diasporic comfort-food joints but avant-garde spaces that present Indian food as an evolving artform.
Indian chefs are no longer cultural ambassadors—they are innovators shaping global culinary conversations.
In essence, Indian cuisine today is not losing its soul. It's speaking a new dialect—rooted in memory, expressed with modernity. From Laal Maas to modern tandoori marvels, from village kitchens to Michelin-starred plates, the journey is not about dilution, but discovery.
This new language of Indian food doesn't rewrite the past—it builds upon it, one plate at a time.
(Vikas Deep Rathour, culinary Manager The Imperia by Dhaba)