These Andalusian beauties make for a perfect dual city break

Telegraph

26-04-2025

Mention Cádiz to someone in Spain and the conversation is highly likely to pivot towards this ancient, southern- Andalusian city's food scene.
Have you tried the Payoyo cheese from the Grazalema mountains? The wafer-thin shrimp fritters known as tortillitas de camarones? Perhaps the almadraba tuna, fished using a millennia-old Phoenician technique?
But there is much more than fabulous food to this delightful Atlantic-side port, which is easily paired with its sherry-loving neighbour, Jerez de la Frontera, for a tempting twin-city break in mainland Spain's southernmost province.
Just 20 miles apart (and linked by frequent trains), both cities still fly under the radar of most visitors, often overlooked in favour of nearby Seville or the Costa de Luz beaches of Cádiz province. Each has its own distinct energy (very relaxed in beachside Cádiz, while Jerez has a smarter edge), yet both are firmly united in their passion for flamenco, sherry and regional gastronomy.
Spring and autumn are ideal times to visit, or go for a quieter off-season break (temperatures can climb to 16C even in January); ideally, skip peak summer months (particularly sweltering in Jerez). The liveliest time flamenco-wise is during the Festival de Jerez each February, though performances happen year-round in both cities.
An extended city break, which visits both cities, is a unique way to spend a holiday in Andalusia – here's our guide to planning your break.
Cádiz
Cádiz has its roots in the Phoenician port of Gadir, founded in around 1100 BC. Today, the compact old town is a joy to stroll around, perched on a peninsula jutting out into the Atlantic and filled with lush green plazas. Cycling by the ocean, taking in grand 17th- and 18th-century mansions and hopping between tapas bars in small buzzy barrios (neighbourhoods) are big draws, and each February one of Spain's greatest Carnival celebrations takes over Cádiz's streets for two weeks.
A flurry of recent boutique openings has raised the bar for stylish accommodation, too. There's even a taste of the Costa de Luz's natural beauty in the city's sweeping white-gold beaches.
Things to see and do
One of the great thrills of Cádiz is simply wandering around the old city, popping into lively squares such as palm-shaded Plaza Candelaria or Plaza de Topete, known locally as Plaza de las Flores (Square of the Flowers) for its bright flower stalls.
Most visits begin at Cádiz's Cathedral, where the golden dome looms over the southern historic centre and the Atlantic behind. After climbing one of the towers for superb views, it's a short hop through the Barrio del Pópulo quarter to the excavated Roman Theatre, believed to date from around 70 BC.
From here, a stroll along the pastel-painted oceanfront promenade, Campo del Sur, to the small, sandy Playa de la Caleta is highly recommended (especially for sunset). Heading into the northern Barrio de Mina district, the Museo de Cádiz houses curious archaeological discoveries from the city's Roman, Phoenician and Moorish pasts, along with a rewarding Spanish fine-arts collection.
Other old-town highlights include the Alameda Apodaca gardens (a bougainvillaea-lined haven dreamed up in the 1920s), the Oratorio Santa Cueva (an 18th-century chapel home to three Goya paintings) and the Yacimiento Arqueológico de Gadir (displaying excavated Phoenician-era homes).
For those keen to dig deeper into the city's history, Cadizfornia Tours runs excellent walking routes (from £24). If you're here on a weekend, Peña Flamenca La Perla de Cádiz hosts soulful performances at one of Andalucía's most respected flamenco clubs, usually on Friday nights. For a swim in the Atlantic, hop on bus 1 (or walk along the sunny ocean front promenade) to the long, velvety strands of Playa de la Victoria and wilder Playa de Cortadura, south of the old city.
Where to eat
The neoclassical Mercado Central de Abastos is a casual spot, with busy counter bars serving Payoyo cheese, freshly sliced jamón from Huelva and local-style papas aliñás (a vinegary potato-salad tapa). In the Carnival-loving Barrio de la Viña, don't miss long-established El Faro, where you can still sample the beloved tortillitas de camarones (shrimp fritters) alongside more creative tapas in the marble-clad bar, or Casa Manteca, a traditional-feel standing-room tapas bar with regional bites such as chicharrones (a thinly sliced pork-based cold cut).
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Just north of the centre, elegantly low-key Almanaque has a strong following for its contemporary twists on Cádiz recipes, including superb rice dishes. Taberna La Manzanilla is a 1930s-born bar serving house vermouth and manzanilla (a sherry from Sanlúcar de Barrameda) from the barrel, both delicious with some chunky olives.
Where to stay
Hotel Olom is an adults-only boutique haven with a rooftop plunge pool and a cocktail bar overlooking the cathedral (doubles from £96, room only). The 14 rooms are decorated with works by emerging Cádiz artists, and dining at stylish in-house restaurant Ettu, led by gaditano chef Álvaro Vela, is a feast of imaginative regional flavours.
Near the Plaza de Mina, Casa Cánovas offers a chic 10-room retreat hidden away in an arty 17th-century noble mansion full of wooden beams, velvet furnishings and vintage-feel chandeliers. Some rooms have private terraces gazing out on the city or even an open-air clawfoot bathtub (doubles from £140, room only).
Jerez de la Frontera
Northeast of Cádiz, inland Jerez is the epicentre of the DO Jerez-Xérès-Sherry wine region. With a population of 213,000, it is almost double the size of Cádiz, yet still has an elegant, walkable old town where centuries-old sherry bodegas dot the streets. Recent years have seen the arrival of several Michelin stars, as well as luxe boutique hotels reviving grand historic buildings.
Things to see and do
Many of Jerez's leading sherry bodegas host tours, tastings and other wine-world experiences, for which advance bookings are recommended. If there is only time for one, Bodegas Tradición specialises in small-group tours to discover its premium VOS and VORS sherries, but also stands out for its astonishing Spanish-art collection with pieces dating back to the 14th century.
A five-minute stroll away, the Centro Cultural Lola Flores is devoted to the great Jerez-born flamenco dancer, singer and actress nicknamed La Faraona. Among the jewels on show is the pearl-grey lace dress Flores wore for her 1957 wedding to the flamenco singer and guitarist Antonio González 'El Pescaílla'.
Just off the central Plaza del Arenal, it's impossible to miss the renowned Bodega González-Byass, founder of the Tio Pepe sherry label, with a wide range of guided visits on offer. The winery practically rubs shoulders with Jerez's serene Alcázar, an impressively well-preserved walled fortress built under Almohad rule in the 12th century.
A five-minute walk leads to Jerez's buttressed cathedral, where you can admire the intricate fusion of Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque styles before climbing its tower across the street. Time permitting, it's well worth stepping into some of the city's smaller churches too, such as the elaborately sculpted Iglesia de San Miguel, believed to take inspiration from Seville's famous Cathedral.
On the eastern edge of the old town, 1896-founded Bodega Lustau has tours, on which you'll taste wines while wandering through its spectacular 'cathedral-bodegas'. Alternatively, explore the local wine scene with Jerez expert Aurora Muñoz, who offers visits to family-owned bodegas, as well as winery-hopping tours around the wider region.
Where to eat
There's no better place to feel Jerez's energy than at its vibrant tabancos. Scattered around the city centre, these traditional, laid-back sherry bars have experienced a major resurgence over the past decade. Century-old Tabanco El Pasaje has flamenco performances several times a day, all accompanied by tapas of Jabugo ham, local mojama (salt-cured tuna) or Grazalema cheeses with quince.
A few doors away, Tabanco Plateros was a leader on the city's revitalised- tabanco scene, and still gets packed for its extensive sherry selection, weekends-only tortilla (Spanish omelette) and paper plates of local cheeses and cold cuts. Also popular is Tabanco Las Banderillas, in the San Miguel quarter.
Just north of the centre, LÚ, Cocina y Alma was awarded its second Michelin star in 2024 for Jerez chef Juanlu Fernández's adventurous, Cádiz-inspired menus, which see local produce imaginatively combined with French influences.
For something more relaxed, the same team also runs creative tapas spot Bina Bar. Neighbouring Albalá serves elegantly innovative tapas and raciones such as red-shrimp salad in a fino -sherry foam, courtesy of chef Israel Ramos. Or head to La Carboná to dine in a smartly converted sherry bodega with menus of Huelva-ham croquettes, scarlet shrimp with oloroso sherry and Conil snapper with garlicky Jerez-vinegar confit.
Where to stay
In the heart of Jerez, the five-star, 21-room Hotel Casa Palacio María Luisa occupies a restored 19th-century mansion set around an arch-filled Andalusian courtyard with chequerboard floors.
Paris-sourced antiques, boldly colourful prints and a calming rooftop pool lend a boutique edge, while creative menus rooted in seasonal Cádiz ingredients await at the T22 restaurant (doubles from £275, including breakfast).