48 hours and a golf bag in: St. George, Utah (where the colors are surreal)
ST. GEORGE, Utah — For some reason, human geography — how people got where they are — has always been a fascinating topic for me, one that makes travel even more interesting. It's easy to visualize, for example, why Chicago became the dynamic city it did when you consider that every Midwestern farmer sent his yearly crop off to the city on Lake Michigan, and those goods were then taken by barge or ship through the Great Lakes for international consumption.
But most of this movement, at least for the majority of American cities, came before I was born, when highways or waterways dictated where the masses settled in. Beauty, for the most part, took a back door to jobs and amenities.
This is not the case in St. George, Utah, however, which has now hosted a PGA Tour event as well as an LPGA tournament. Once known primarily as a sleepy Mormon outpost, St. George has become a vibrant destination for golfers and those who love to sightsee. We spent 48 hours in the up-and-coming locale, and here are the major takeaways:
Where we stayed: Black Desert Resort
There's a reason the resort has pushed to house tournaments for both tours: The amenities are top-notch and the views are otherworldly. We met with Patrick Manning, the managing partner of the resort, and he insisted things will keep getting better and better at the resort, which is just now can wrapping up construction. High ceilings, a gorgeous pool area and views of the red rocks and black lava make this an experience like none other.
"The old saying is if you build it, they'll come. But that's not what we're doing. They're here. There are twice as many visitors coming here than there are to Park City. And look how many resorts Park City has. And so we just did one large one that can take care of the people who are already coming here. So we want to provide the best experience. We're finding out, testing this, seeing how people respond to certain things," Manning said. "We're just keeping our ear to the ground, listening to people. We don't want to get in a room and say this is what Black Desert wants to be. We want to be out there listening to people who tell us what they're looking for."
Manning knows that word-of-mouth from pro golfers can help propel Black Desert up the list of potential buddy trip destinations.
More: Uncommon ground: New Black Desert in Utah soars into Golfweek's Best course rankings
Where we played (and walked): Sand Hollow, Black Desert
OK, full disclaimer, the week we were on site, the PGA Tour event was in town, so we walked Black Desert but didn't play it. Our Travel Editor Jason Lusk has and his review of the property was glowing:
Despite the sea of lava, the course is very manageable, wide where it needs to be and tricky where it counts. Black Desert can accommodate a resort guest or a tour pro, which is good, because it was laid out with both in mind.
Opened in 2023, Black Desert was the last course designed by Tom Weiskopf before his death caused by pancreatic cancer. Phil Smith, Weiskopf's partner in golf architecture, finished the job.
The layout has quickly climbed the rankings and is No. 1 in Utah on Golfweek's Best list of public-access courses, No. 26 among all resort courses in the U.S. and No. 81 among all modern courses in the country.
And it's all part of one the most ambitious endeavors golf has seen in decades.
For more on Black Desert, click here.
Meanwhile, we headed across town to play Sand Hollow, which sits overlooking a reservoir a few miles to the east of St. George in Hurricane. The course is No. 2 on Golfweek's Best list of courses you can play in Utah also boasts amazing views, even though it's more of a wide-open feel as opposed to Black Desert's rolling ride through mountain valleys. Because the area is largely devoid of trees, I'm assuming the winds can get pretty strong, and that could also make maintaining the course a bit tricky.
Sand Hollow has a few holes on the back nine that will take your breath away and could conceivably do the same with your ball if you don't avoid the treacherous cliffs and canyons. The layout is dynamic.
Where we ate: Cliffside Restaurant, Angelica's Mexican
This is a two-part review, since we went for a CVB-like dinner at the famous Cliffside Restaurant, which was exquisite, and then also had a fulfilling meal at Angelica's, a small Mexican joint recommended by a local. Both did not disappoint.
Cliffside is high-end, but not outrageously expensive, especially considering the amazing view of the entire region the property offers up to guests. We tried the butternut squash soup and the seared Idaho red trout, and both were just divine. Take note, the restaurant is closed on Sundays.
We also stopped at Angelica's, looking for a little substance after some wine tasting. This little spot has surprisingly good street tacos, considering the location, and one of our faves was the Angelica's Special: Carne Asada with grilled bell peppers, onions and melted cheese on top of three soft, flat corn tortillas with a side of rice and beans. This did not feel like Utah.
Thing you have to do: Mad Moose UTV/ATV tours
Looking to take out a little frustration after too many three-putts? This thrill ride on the side of a mountain ridge will certainly clear your mind. Mad Moose has a number of Polaris 2- and 4-seaters that make cruising through the red rocks an unforgettable experience. We did the West Rim trail and after getting used to the machine, which glides through the sand and over rocks with ease, we followed a guide for a 2-hour trip that had so many highlights. Don't skimp on this trip. Every moment flies by.
Insider tip: Zion's Kolob Canyons
So, Zion National Park is an incredible experience, but to be frank, it's getting more and more difficult to get into the park, and the parking/shuttle system can make the main portion of the park a true time suck for those who are only in town for a day or two. But you can see something amazing at Kolob Canyons, a remote portion of Zion which sits on the backside of the main park, and has crowds a fraction of the size.
The Timber Creek Overlook Trail is manageable and the vistas are spectacular. The day we did it, a rainstorm blew through, but then quickly subsided and the sun lit up the rock formations soon after. Stunning stuff.
Overall takeaway
St. George is still a small town that, well, feels like a small town. Don't come here and expect a plethora of high-end dinner options or nightlife. If, however, you're looking for an outdoor experience that is like no other, this spot in Southern Utah is for you. And hey, wanna see a fancy show? Fly into Vegas, live the high life and then make the 90-minute-or-so drive up to St. George for some eye candy you won't see anywhere else.
So, to bring this full circle, why are people flocking to a remote part of Utah? Sure, the job market is inching upward. The town has diversified away from its strong Mormon past. And the amenities are accumulating, slowly be surely.
But the views you get in St. George and the Greater Zion region are some of the best in the country. And since moving crops or having a seaport isn't as necessary as it once was for the growth of a city, expect this once-secretive place to become the next Sedona. When I was born in the 1970s, only 7,000 people lived in St. George. The 2022 census estimate for the city was over 102,000. This momentum isn't stopping any time soon.
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