A Taste Of Lebanon In Chicago At Beity
Whenever I head out of town and tell people that I am from Chicago, the overwhelming response is 'great restaurant scene.' Growing up here, I've known that for years, and it's been a pleasure to dine at so many different types of restaurants, be they Thai, Mexican, Polish, Italian … well the list goes on and on. Yes, the overall quality of Chicago restaurants is amazing, and some of that revolves around the love and care of immigrants who show diners in the city the distinctive pleasures of food from their homeland.
Recently, I've dined at South American and Balkan restaurants which I greatly enjoyed - it's been great sampling the food and wines of these cultures. Now in Chicago comes Beity, a Lebanese restaurant that has its own singular dining experience, and is off to a promising start.
Located in the bustling Fulton Market area west of the city's Loop, Beity - Arabic for 'my home'- is the realization of Chef Ryan Fakih, who has Lebanese heritage (his grandmother in Lebanon sends him cooking videos.) Based on his interpretation, the cuisine of Lebanon is quite varied - I didn't know what to expect at my recent dinner there, and I enjoyed the exotic nature of the dishes.
Pickled cauliflower, Beity
Two menus are offered; one, a la carte and the second a tasting menu that takes the diner from hummus to Tubot with cashews to Braised Lamb Leg. At $140 per person, this is fairly priced, but it may be more than you want to pay for dinner, so the a la carte menu that offers Lamb Kafta, Goat Cheese with pickled turnips and Lamb Emmo, a seven-spiced lamb with mint yogurt (one of the highlights here) may be the way to enjoy your evening.
A few dishes that are among the most flavorful and creative include the Mezze Platter that contains Parsley Hummus, with Awarma (lamb confit) and Muhamarra (a dip with several ingredients including red peppers) that is a great way to start; this is as intriguing a dish as there is on the menu. Duck riz with bazella (pea stew) is a great choice for diners who aren't that adventurous; the duck was cooked perfectly as was the rice; this is a great mix of savory flavors.
Beet Shish Barak, goat cheese dumplings from the tasting menu are beautifully prepared and have an elegant texture. A similar dish, Shish Barak (without the beet sauce) is disappointing, as the dumplings are dry and a bit tough; this is a rare misfire at Beity. The Bekaalaise, braised lamb leg from the tasting menu is a much better option.Dining room at Beity
The dining room has been tastefully designed with its stone walls and low-lighting; the stone walls help keep the place cool, a plus in this summer's tropical weather. Our server was excellent; well-mannered and with a proud confidence, he was extremely helpful in letting my dining partner and I all about the menu choices.
The wine program is quite good, with a nice mix of wines from Lebanon as well as several from America; the Pet-Nat from Yorkville Highlands, California was delicious; the hostess recommened this, stating that this was a wine that was a favorite among diners, as it tasted a lot like a pale ale (she was right!). I also enjoyed an excellent glass of Cinsault from Mersel Wines from the Bekaa Valley of Lebanon; slightly spicy with round tannins, this was an inspired selection for this cuisine.
The only real downside here is how long a meal takes here. Now my friend and I did try items from both the a la carte and tasting menus, so we may have been not your ordinary customers. But three and a half-hours with a fair amount of very rich food was too long for me. Let's hope they improve on that.
Overall, I recommend Beity for its quality, its charm and its distinctivess. Here's hoping enough diners want to experience the creativity of Lebanese cuisine.
Beity
813 W. Fulton Street, Chicago
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