I forgot my worries at this historic resort in Mauritius' 'magic place'

Metro

a day ago

As we drive into the seaside village of Flic en Flac, on the west coast of Mauritius, the sun shines in a cloudless sky.
'We call this The Magic Place,' my guide tells me with a smile. 'Even when it's raining everywhere else, there are always blue skies here.'
You might think constant sunshine is a given in Mauritius, but as a tropical island, it gets more rain each year than the UK.
During my stay in the impossibly beautiful country, I was caught in soaked-to-the-skin downpours, and stood at viewpoints which promised scenes of lush jungle and imposing mountains — only to see nothing but clouds.
And yet, if my guide was to be believed, it was going to be a different story here in Flic en Flac.
And as we pulled into the five-star Sugar Beach resort, with it's cool, vaulted lobby — turquoise sea glistening in the distance — I started to wonder if this place really was magical after all.
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Arriving at Sugar Beach is pretty breathtaking. From the reception building you get an almost uninterpreted view of the main pool and gardens, with the Indian Ocean in the background.
High-ceilings and laid-back staff make you feel like you're in a calming oasis, away from the heat and the chaotic Mauritian traffic.
This sprawling resort, built in the early 90s, is styled like an old sugar plantation, with a grand manor house and villas that mimic the look of Mauritius' colonial houses.
There's no denying it's beautiful, but it can feel a little jarring. Sugar plantations in Mauritius were heavily reliant on slaves, forcibly brought over to the island by Dutch, French and British colonisers.
Still, the hotel manages to strike a balance between acknowledging the past and investing in the future.
Mauritian culture is celebrated through workshops with local artists and events such as a seafood market event every Saturday, which supports local fishermen.
Meanwhile, 75% of the hotel's food is sourced from suppliers within the community, and the vast majority of its workforce (who are offered extensive training in the likes of leadership and technical skills) are Mauritian.
First up, and perhaps most importantly, there are two pools. The main one is a huge, curved situation that seems to reach around the entire hotel. It spreads over 2,000 square metres, and the sunbeds that are slightly submerged in the water are an added touch.
There's also an adults-only pool (I am not exaggerating when I say I ate the best chicken wrap of my life pool-side) which is surrounded by palm trees, with a sea view. Children have their own pool in the Kids' Club.
If you prefer lounging to the sound of waves crashing, there's also plenty of sunbeds on the beach. Thanks to the coral reefs that encircle the island, the sea is calm and shallow.
Activity-wise there's lots on offer, with everything from tennis and beach volleyball to windsurfing and snorkelling.
A manicured lawn which overlooks the beach also becomes a pop-up cinema on selected nights, where a huge screen is erected, and guests can watch a roster of films under the stars.
There's a spa, an option for when it rains (my guide, as it turns out, wasn't right about that one).
An authentic Mauritian massage for 60 minutes costs 4,500 Mauritian rupees, which works out at around £72.
There are three restaurants at Sugar Beach.
First is Le Patio, a buffet-style restaurant which all-inclusive guests have access to, serving breakfast and dinner.
There's a huge selection. Breakfast offerings include an omelet station, full English favourites, continental pastries, a smoothie station, fresh fruit, crepes and waffles, to name just a few.
In the evening, you can enjoy traditional Mauritian curries, as well as more familiar options like pasta and pizza.
I was surprised by the not-at-all naff entertainment here — I watched a Sega Tipik performance, a traditional Mauritian artform which involves songs and some mesmerising drumming.
But it's Sugar Beach's a la carte restaurants that aren't to be missed, although it's worth noting, they're not included in the all-inclusive package.
In a secluded corner of the hotel is Maré Maré. The interiors look kind of like the chic neighbourhood restaurants you'd find in the likes of Richmond or Highgate, with a white beamed ceiling and light-wooden accents.
However it's the alfresco dining that's the showstopper: you eat right on the beach with an ocean view. There's even a sunken fire pit, where I witnessed a nervous looking guy about to propose.
It's a pop-up concept, with a guest chef curating a menu each year. For 2025, the collaboration is with South African celebrity chef, Reuben Riffel. I tucked into prawn fritters, and fresh local fish.
Over at Buddha Beach Bar, guests can also enjoy Asia and Mediterranean dishes. I opted for sushi and delicious lobster dumplings. I was warned by my waiter that the Singapore chilli prawns maybe a bit too spicy, but I enjoyed every mouthful (although I have a sneaky suspicion they may have gone a little light on the chilli).
There's also a bar area at Buddha, which feels like the heart of the hotel. It's pleasantly busy at all times of the day, but it's at its best at sunset. Once night falls, you can sip cocktails into the early hours, while genuinely good acts serenade you with live music.
In the name of good journalism, I did my best to sample as many cocktails as possible here. Special mention goes to Violent Noble G&T, a twist on the classic that sort of tastes like Parma Violets.
One word: stunning.
I stayed in a premium ground-floor suite, which has the look of one of the aforementioned colonial houses, and is bigger than most London flats.
I had two adjoining rooms: one with a bed and bathroom, and another with a living area (and second bathroom).
It's glass fronted (your 'front door' is a sliding glass door that steps out onto a terrace, with a pool and ocean view), which does take a bit of getting used to. Unless you're an exhibitionist, there's a lot of faffing about with drawing the curtains. But it does mean you can enjoy the stunning views of the pool and ocean from bed.
The wooden panelling and boho aesthetic feel calming and at one with the stunning scenery you find at every turn in Mauritius.
The bed, as you'd expect, was huge, and the free-standing bath would be perfect for honeymooners wanting a romantic night in (you'd definitely want to close those curtains).
There's an impossibly huge TV and a mini bar area which Brits will be pleased to know comes with kettle, cold milk and tea bags.
I enjoyed sipping a morning cuppa on the sun lounger on my terrace, listening to the island wake up and the waves crash in the distance. Bliss.
Sugar Beach is a five-star resort and it comes with a five-star price tag. More Trending
TUI offers a seven-night holiday to Flic en Flac, Mauritius staying at the 5T Sugar Beach on a half-board basis from £2289 per person.
The price is based on two adults sharing a deluxe double room with sea view and balcony, flying with Air Mauritius on direct flights departing from London Gatwick Airport on September 8 2025. Your hold baggage (23kg) and transfers are included.
Time: Mauritius is GMT -4 hours.
Weather: The average daily temperature in July and August, during Mauritian winter, is around 25°C. During their peak summer months, from November to February, temperatures sit around 30°C. October and November are also the driest months.
Adaptors: The plug sockets are the same as those in the UK.
Visas: You can visit Mauritius without a visa for up to 60 days, however, you must fill in the Mauritius All in One travel form online before you arrive. You'll need to show this to officials when you arrive at the airport.
Check in/check out: 2pm and 12 noon.
Disability access? There are three luxury rooms available for disabled guests. The rooms have have ramps and wheelchair-friendly bathrooms, as well as grab bars in the bathrooms.
Standout feature: The sunset views from Buddha Beach Bar.
Perfect for: Couples, families and friends after a relaxing holiday.
Not right for: Groups looking to party.
Kristina was a guest of TUI. For more information visit tui.co.uk, visit your local TUI holiday store or download their app.
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