Frittata, ‘egg and chips' and a bean feast: Sami Tamimi's brunch recipes from Palestine

The Guardian

3 days ago

What better way to welcome the weekend than with the smell and sound of herb-loaded ijeh frying? This is a thick, delicious frittata-like mixture of courgettes, leeks, peas, herbs and eggs, and in Palestine it's often made with finely chopped onions, too. I always keep a couple of tins of ful (fava beans) in my pantry for those times when I crave a quick and satisfying late breakfast or weekend lunch. When simple toast and butter won't do the trick and I'm in need of something more substantial and savoury, that's when fava beans come to the rescue.
You can substitute the eggs with feta for an extra-creamy and salty touch. Alternatively, the dish works beautifully as a vegan dish without the eggs. If fava beans aren't available, you can easily substitute them for other tinned beans. Make sure to season the beans generously and serve them with fresh crusty bread or flatbread. This is a truly filling and satisfying meal that never fails to impress.
Prep 15 minSteep Overnight
Cook 50 min
Serves 4
For the sumac onions1 large red onion, peeled, halved and thinly sliced1½ tbsp sumac100ml apple cider vinegar
3 tbsp lemon juice
Salt
For the aubergines, beans and eggs2 medium aubergines (about 630g)80ml olive oil, plus extra to serveSalt and black pepper1 onion, peeled and finely chopped (175g)6 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed1 small piece of ginger, peeled and finely grated (20g)1 green chilli, finely chopped, seeds and all (20g)1 tsp chilli flakes1 tsp ground cumin
½ tsp ground cinnamon
1½ tsp tomato paste2 plum tomatoes, chopped into 2cm chunks (300g)400g tin chopped tomatoes400g tin fava beans, drained15g fresh coriander, roughly chopped, plus extra to serve4 large eggs30g sumac onions (see above and method)
For the sumac onions: pack the sliced onion into a 400ml jar for which you have a lid. Add the sumac and set aside. Put the vinegar, 100ml water, lemon juice and a tablespoon of salt in a medium bowl and whisk until the salt dissolves. Pour the vinegar mixture over the onions, cover and give them a gentle shake. The onions are ready to eat the next day, though they'll keep in the fridge for up to three weeks.
Heat the oven to 240C (220C fan)/475F/gas 9. Cut the aubergines into 4cm chunks and put in a large bowl. Mix well with 40ml oil, half a teaspoon of salt and a good grind of black pepper, then spread out on a large oven tray lined with baking paper. Roast for 25 minutes, or until very soft and lightly browned, then remove from the oven and set aside.
Meanwhile, make the sauce. Put the remaining oil in a large saute pan on a medium-high heat. Add the onion and saute for about seven minutes, until soft and lightly browned. Add the garlic, ginger, green chilli, chilli flakes, spices and tomato paste, and cook for another minute, or until fragrant.
Add the chopped tomatoes, tinned tomatoes, fava beans, 300ml water, a teaspoon and a quarter of salt and a good grind of pepper, turn down the heat to medium and cook for 15 minutes, or until thickened.
Add the aubergine chunks and cook for a further three minutes. Stir in the coriander, then turn down the heat to medium-low. Make four wells in the sauce and crack an egg into each well. Gently swirl the egg whites with a fork a little bit, taking care not to break the yolks. Simmer gently for seven or eight minutes, until the egg whites are set and the yolks are still runny. Cover the pan with a lid for the last few minutes, to speed things up.
Leave to settle and cool for a couple of minutes, then garnish with the sumac onions, coriander, a drizzle of olive oil and a little salt on the eggs.
Good with chopped salad, shatta and warm bread.
Prep 10 min
Cook 1 hr
Serves 4–6
250g frozen peas, defrosted2 courgettes (300g)1 small onion (150g)1 large leek, trimmed, finely chopped, washed and dried (175g)50g plain flour15g fresh parsley, finely chopped10g fresh mint leaves, thinly shredded1¼ tsp dried mint1 tsp aleppo chilli flakes, or regular chilli flakes½ tsp ground turmeric1 tsp dill or fennel seeds, slightly crushed3 large eggs, lightly beatenSalt and black pepper
3 tbsp olive oilLemon wedges, to serveSoured cream, to serve
Put the peas in a food processor and blitz for a few seconds until slightly crushed but not mushy. Transfer to a large bowl.
Trim the courgettes and peel the onion, then, using the coarse side of a box grater, grate both on to a clean tea towel or muslin. Gather up the ends of the towel and twist hard over a bowl to squeeze out as much liquid as possible. Add the grated courgettes and onion to the peas, then add the leek, flour, herbs, spices, eggs, a teaspoon and three-quarters of salt and a good grind of black pepper. Mix well to form a uniform batter.
Put a large (28cm) shallow nonstick pan for which you have a lid on a medium heat and add the oil. When the oil is hot, add the ijeh mixture, smoothing it down to make an even patty. Partly cover the pan, then leave to cook on a low heat for about 17 minutes, shaking the pan a few times to make sure it doesn't stick to the bottom and running a rubber spatula around the sides.
When the edges start to go golden brown, get a large flat plate and place it over the pan. Carefully invert the pan, plate and all, so the ijeh ends up on the plate, then slide it back into the pan uncooked side down and cook uncovered for 15 minutes more, until it is firm and cooked through.
To serve, slide the ijeh on to a platter, squeeze over a little lemon juice and serve with lemon wedges and soured cream on the side.
This is the Palestinian equivalent of egg and chips, and is commonly enjoyed as a hearty and comforting meal. It's a simple yet fulfilling dish, made with basic ingredients. Batata w beyd is often served as a main course, accompanied by sides of chopped vegetables, pickles, shatta and bread. Perfect for breakfast, lunch or dinner, its simplicity makes it a popular choice for home cooks.
Prep 5 min
Cook 45 min
Serves 4
4 large potatoes (1.15kg)
4 tbsp sunflower oil, plus 1 tsp extra for the onions
30g butter
Salt and black pepper
2 medium onions, peeled and finely chopped (300g)8 medium eggs
1½ tsp sumac2 tbsp fresh parsley, roughly chopped2 tbsp fresh oregano leaves
Olive oil
Peel the potatoes and cut them into 1½cm cubes. Heat the sunflower oil and butter in a very large frying pan, add the potato cubes, a teaspoon of salt and three-quarters of a teaspoon of ground black pepper, then cook, stirring a few times, on a medium-high heat, for 17 minutes, or until the potatoes are crisp, golden brown on the outside and soft within. Transfer the potatoes to a bowl.
Using the same pan, lower the heat to medium, then add the remaining teaspoon of sunflower oil and the onion, and cook, stirring, for about five minutes, until the onion is soft and light golden. Return the potatoes to the pan and stir a couple of times.
Crack in the eggs and cook for eight to 10 minutes, until they are cooked through, but the yolks are still slightly runny. If you like, cover the pan with a lid for the last few minutes to speed up the process.
Sprinkle with a bit more salt, the sumac and the herbs, finish with a final drizzle of olive oil and serve.
This is an edited extract from Boustany: A Celebration of Vegetables from my Palestine, by Sami Tamimi, published by Ebury Press at £30. To order a copy for £25.50, visit guardianbookshop.com