Chef To Kwok Wai: Merging tradition and innovation at Yu Yuan
'It is about rooting myself in tradition while constantly innovating to reinvent the contemporary dining experience. I believe in respecting traditional methods and recipes, but also in evolving them with the times and in response to the expectations of diners,' says To Kwok Wai, defining his culinary philosophy.
To is the head chef of Yu Yuan, the Cantonese fine-dining restaurant at Four Seasons Hotel Seoul. By focusing on accentuating the natural taste of the ingredients, just as traditional Cantonese food emphasizes, he and his team succeeded in winning back the restaurant's Michelin star in 2025 after four years without the coveted award.
'While upholding this philosophy, I also aim to enrich the cuisine with a modern sensibility and refined presentation, striving to satisfy both depth of flavor and aesthetic appeal. The key lies in achieving sophistication through simplicity, and to do so, I believe every step, from ingredient selection to cooking methods and plating, must be organically interconnected.'
To shared with The Korea Herald that the most memorable moment in his culinary career was when his Yu Yuan team won back the Michelin star.
'It wasn't just about regaining a star — it was a deeply meaningful recognition that our collective efforts were fairly acknowledged. Having undergone numerous changes and challenges, including a full menu overhaul, team training, and redefining ingredient and cooking standards, the sense of accomplishment was even greater. Above all, I take immense pride in how our team persevered together toward a shared goal throughout the process.'
The biggest challenge in earning back the Michelin star was sourcing essential ingredients and spices for Cantonese cuisine, which required To to either import directly from China or find local substitutes.
'Ingredients such as abalone, blue crab and Hanwoo beef offer rich potential, but the key lies in how naturally they can be integrated into Cantonese cooking techniques. I carefully adjust elements such as cooking temperature, timing and cutting methods to suit each ingredient's unique characteristics. In doing so, I strive to preserve the authenticity of Cantonese cuisine while creating dishes that feel approachable and familiar to local diners,' Chef To explained.
His culinary style is reflected in his signature dish at Yu Yuan: wok-fried lobster with red onion, scallions and shallots.
The dish highlights the distinct 'wok hei' of Cantonese cuisine, focusing on drawing out the lobster's natural freshness and flavor with minimal seasoning. Ingredients like red onion, scallions and shallots are used to balance aroma and texture, while traditional Cantonese wok techniques bring out layered, complex flavors.
Chef To is also introducing two of the four great delicacies of China — bird's nest and dried sea cucumber — as part of Four Seasons Hotel Seoul's exclusive 'Four Hands Dining Experience' promotion.
Two Michelin-starred chefs, To from Seoul's Yu Yuan and Charles Zhang from Suzhou's Jin Jing Ge, collaborate for this special two-day dining event on Friday and Saturday, blending Cantonese and Jiangsu cuisine with seasonal Korean ingredients.
To's dishes for the event include: Golden bird's nest with crab roe, sea cucumber braised with glutinous millet sauce and crispy fried red crab claws with hawthorn sauce.
'To bring out the perfect harmony between premium bird's nest and female crab roe, the natural flavors must shine without any off-putting odors, which requires meticulous preparation and precise temperature control. Such premium dishes demand strict standards at every stage, from carefully selecting bird's nest based on shape, clarity and texture, to ensuring the crab roe is exceptionally fresh and flavorful. We rigorously manage cooking temperature and timing to create a clear, profound taste with perfect balance and no unwanted flavors.'
To has spent decades walking the path of a chef, which he began at just 15 years old, and building his career across diverse cities including Singapore, Jakarta, and Beijing, but says there is still much more to learn.
'I want to continuously learn and grow as a chef. My immediate goal is to introduce the essence of Cantonese cuisine to more diners through Yu Yuan and achieve greater success together with my team. Ultimately, I hope to open my own restaurant that embodies my personal philosophy and presents dishes bearing my name to the world.'
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