The best pit stops for great grub and leg-stretching strolls
It's not every day that you get to eat in a retro-style diner with a giant plastic cow on the roof, so seize the opportunity should you happen to be traversing the A90.
Owned and run by the Farquharson family since 1960, the Horn Milk Bar lays claim to what is 'officially the best bacon roll in the world' (it won an online poll a few years back). This roadside restaurant has serious fashion credentials too: it appeared in a Vogue photo shoot.
(Image: The Horn Milk Bar) If you're in the mood for a daunder, you're not too far from the Taybank Circuit, which starts and finishes in nearby Errol, around a five-minute drive away. This 4.25-mile (7km) loop leads down to the edge of the Tay, with tranquil views across the reed beds and tidal flats.
The Pitstop at Kintail, Aultachruine, Glenshiel
With gorgeous lochside views, The Pitstop at Kintail is well-worth swinging off the A87 to visit. This rustic cafe has both indoor seating and picnic tables outside. The mighty burgers are a mainstay of the menu, alongside hearty soups and mammoth scones.
When it comes to a meander, you're spoiled for choice from the wildlife-packed trails around Loch Duich to exploring the magnificent Falls of Glomach – and not forgetting the classic Five Sisters of Kintail ridge walk with its trio of Munros.
The Real Food Cafe and The Green Welly Stop, Tyndrum
Forget choosing a Harry Potter Hogwarts house or swearing life-long loyalty to a football team, the true test of allegiance: what is your favourite A82 Tyndrum pit stop? Joking aside, both are absolute gems.
The Real Food Cafe is renowned for its delicious dishes, with ample gluten-free, vegetarian and vegan options. The always-fresh fish and chips are an oft-cited, firm favourite, along with the myriad cakes and traybakes. It is also dog-friendly, making it perfect for pet owners.
The Green Welly Stop is brilliant if you need to stock-up on provisions for your trip, whether it be any last-minute outdoor equipment or car snacks. For those looking for a substantial meal, there are yummy homemade pizzas, as well as savoury pastries, pastas, soups and ice cream.
As for walks? You're on the famed West Highland Way and stand at one of the most exalted junctions in Scotland, with Glen Coe and Fort William to the north and Oban to the west.
The Pitstop – Tartan Bus, near Inverurie, Aberdeenshire
This eye-catching eatery, also known as the Tartan Bus – or still fondly referred to by regulars as 'Roy's Bus' after its original, now-retired owner – is a delight to pop into if you're heading along the A96 between Aberdeen and Inverness.
(Image: The Pitstop)
Best described as a bus-diner – reminiscent of the catering vehicles used on film and TV location shoots – you can pull up a pew at one of the cosy tables and tuck into breakfast, hot-filled rolls, toasties, burgers and chips.
You're only a couple of miles from The Maiden Stone, a Pictish cross-slab dating from around 700 AD, which can be viewed with a short detour off the A96. According to legend, a young woman was turned to stone after losing a bet with the devil.
The Glen Cafe, St Mary's Loch, Borders
Located beside the A708 between Moffat and Selkirk, The Glen Cafe sits beside St Mary's Loch and the smaller Loch of the Lowes, occupying a superb perch on this picturesque section of road.
Open seasonally from April to October, its menu is packed with tasty fare. We're talking sublime soups and mains such as steak pie, quiche, hot beef rolls and Scotch pie with beans and chips. Desserts include apple and blackberry crumble, served with ice cream or custard.
The Ring of St Mary's Loch offers a scenic stroll, covering seven miles (11km), with the Shinglehook Sculptures, Dryhope Tower and Cockburn's Grave among the area's highlights.
Susan Swarbrick is a columnist and freelance writer who loves history and the outdoors. Follow her on X @SusanSwarbrick and Bluesky @susanswarbrick.bsky.social
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She may be one of the UK's most successful authors of all time, but despite her fame - and controversy surrounding her views on transgender rights in recent years - JK Rowling has managed to keep her personal life relatively private. More than a decade on from the whirlwind success of the Harry Potter films hitting the big screen, Rowling, who turned 60 this week, for the most part maintains a low-profile existence at her £2million estate near Edinburgh. But with an estimated net worth of $1.2billion (£895million), as recently revealed by Forbes, it's perhaps no surprise that, behind the scenes, the author is more fond of a party-hard and lavish lifestyle than she tends to share publicly. In June, the Harry Potter author made a rare public appearance as she attended Royal Ascot with her rarely-seen husband, doctor Neil Murray. 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Rowling had shared: 'I love it when a plan comes together' after the ruling that, in the 2010 Equality Act, the definition of the term 'women' relates only to biological women. She's also said to throw lavish but 'highly secretive' parties at her Scottish estate. On New Year's Eve, The Sun reported that one party at her home resembled a 'major festival', with fireworks, live music and even its own funfair, including dodgems and a carousel. The ultra-VIP guest list was said to include music stars and actors, such as U2, The Pretenders and James Bond star Daniel Craig. Her 60th birthday is expected to be no less extravagant than her 50th, a decade ago, when guests were reportedly invited to dress as 'your own private nightmare'. Another source told the paper: 'She's brilliant company, funny - outrageous sometimes - and doesn't shy away from saying, "Let's stay for another one". 'Her birthday will be no different - she's looking forward to celebrating with the people she loves.' In addition, when Rowling visits London, she's said to enjoy lunch at The River Café in Hammersmith, a celeb haunt where she hosts events for feminist activists. In April 2022, she hosted a boozy women-only lunch at the exclusive café, which specialises in Italian food in the converted Thames Wharf industrial storage facility by the River Thames at Hammersmith. Regular customers include Stella McCartney, Kate Moss and Gwyneth Paltrow. A photograph posted on Twitter by Ms Rowling showed the party drinking red and white wine. Alongside it, she wrote: 'There was a lunch and I'm not saying I've only just sobered up enough to type this tweet but at the same time, I'm not not saying that', adding purple, green and white heart emojis and #respectmysex. The restaurant was founded by two women, Ruth Rogers and the late Rose Gray, in 1987 and won a Michelin star ten years later. Guests included Professor Kathleen Stock, who resigned from her University of Sussex job after being accused of 'transphobia' and Helen Joyce, who penned Trans: When Ideology Meets Reality. Ms Rowling said: 'There was a lunch and I'm not saying I've only just sobered up enough to type this tweet but at the same time, I'm not not saying that. 'It was me getting them drunk, to be honest. I do remember being authoritatively told I'm only 66% straight. She shared another snippet into their lives in October, when she shared a snap of their drinks 'Watch this space for further developments.' Even back in 2009, the author showed her love for a party as she attended a star-studded charity fundraising ball at Hampton Court Palace. Rowling, who looked a picture of glamour in a sky blue off-the-shoulder gown, was seen enjoying a laugh with comedian Peter Kay at the Raisa Gorbachev Foundation charity gala. The star was in high spirits for the evening, and was even said at the time to have outbid all rivals to pay £12,000 for a cheeky lapdance by David Walliams. It's perhaps unsurprising that, for the most part, JK chooses to keep her private life under wraps. After a post on Twitter in 2020 that called out an article using the phrase 'people who menstruate' instead of women, the once generally beloved figure's reputation has become mired with controversy. Most famously, she has become estranged from the young Harry Potter stars Daniel Radcliffe, Emma Watson and Rupert Grint, whom her books helped propel to fame. These days, she lives with her second husband Doctor Neil Murray and their three children outside of Edinburgh. Meanwhile in 2020, she put up 4ft-high new gates to increase her security. Rowling married her husband, Dr Neil Murray, in the library of her second, Perthshire home, which boasts two halls, a dining room, a drawing room, a morning room, and seven bedrooms. There is also a two-bedroom extension on the west wing, a swimming pool covered with copper domes, a state-of-the-art electronic security system and 24/7 security guards. However, from time-to-time, she does give rare glimpses into their shared life together. At the end of last year, she shared a heartfelt post to mark their 23rd wedding anniversary. It consisted of a photograph of the author, smiling in the embrace of her husband, underneath the brief caption 'Married 23 years today' alongside a single heart emoji. The photograph, shared with her 14.3 million followers on X on Boxing Day, was a happy, sunlit snapshot. Murray was 29, working as a senior house officer in anaesthetics at St John's Hospital, Livingston, West Lothian, when he met the already phenomenally successful Rowling in 2000. Her first book, Harry Potter And The Philosopher's Stone, had been published three years earlier, propelling her to stardom. A former head boy at his school in the Scottish town of Huntly, Aberdeenshire, Neil had chosen not to follow his father and grandfather by becoming a vet, but rather won a place at Glasgow University to study medicine, graduating in 1994. After sitting next to each other at a charity event in Edinburgh, the relationship went public in December 2000. The couple would go on to have two children, David in 2003, and Mackenzie in 2005, younger siblings to Rowling's daughter Jessica - with all three largely remaining out of the spotlight. Following her romantic gesture marking their 23rd anniversary, she was characteristically light-hearted about him. 'He married up,' wrote one in the comments. 'Trust me, as everyone who's met him knows, I'm the lucky one,' Rowling shot back. 'Do you think you'll keep him?' asked another. 'I've lost the receipt, so I'll have to,' she parried. In October, she gave another hint at their lifestyle as a blend of privacy and fun, sharing a snap of two drinks. 'Old Fashioned for me, Negroni for Neil,' the author wrote. Rowling was criticised in 2018 after she liked a tweet describing trans women as 'men in dresses' - with her spokesperson at the time describing the 'like' as a 'mistake', calling it a 'clumsy middle-aged moment'. But the author has since embarked on a campaign seeking to protect what she describes as women's rights, fuelled by her own experiences of domestic abuse. That campaign has seen her oppose legislation in Scotland that sought to make it easier for trans people to change their legal gender, and she has provided financial support to those fighting court cases challenging the legal status of trans people. In a lengthy 3,600-word statement on her website published in 2020, she said her stance on trans rights was drawn from her experiences of abuse and sexual assault. She wrote: 'When you throw open the doors of bathrooms and changing rooms to any man who believes or feels he's a woman... then you open the door to any and all men who wish to come inside. That is the simple truth.' Daniel Radcliffe, meanwhile, initially fell out with the Scottish writer after he penned an article declaring ' transgender women are women' shortly after Rowling criticised using the phrase 'people who menstruate' rather than women. Radcliffe and his young co-stars Emma Watson and Rupert Grint, who played the starring trio, have all taken a strong stance against the author instead confirming their continued support to the trans community. He later revealed that he and Rowling no longer speak, while the author has insisted she would never forgive the younger stars of the film franchise for speaking out against her views on trans rights. In 2024, Radcliffe has revealed the pair no longer speak which he said makes him 'really sad'. Rowling has said she is unlikely to forgive Radcliffe and Watson for taking the stance that they have on trans people Watson has repeatedly spoken out in favour of trans rights both before (top) and after (bottom) Rowling's comments in June 2020 Meanwhile Watson said in a Tweet following Rowling's initial comments: 'Trans people are who they say they are and deserve to live their lives without being constantly questioned or told they aren't who they say they are.' The 35-year-old, who played school chum Hermione Granger, previously shared an image of herself in a t-shirt reading: 'Trans rights are human rights.' At the 2022 Baftas she also appeared to make a subtle dig towards Rowling. Host Rebel Wilson had called her onto the stage, adding 'she calls her self a feminist, but we all know she's a witch.' Watson then replied 'I'm here for all the witches' which many viewers deemed was the actress making a jibe at Rowling. That same year, Rupert Grint, who played Ron in the films, described Rowling as his 'auntie' but added in an article in The Times: 'I don't necessarily agree with everything my auntie says, but she's still my auntie. It's a tricky one.' Rowling, who has become the face of feminist campaigners calling for the protection of women-only spaces, said she was unlikely to forgive those stars who first spoke out in support of trans people following her comments. Responding to a tweet that asked whether the likes of Radcliffe and Watson would apologise to the author, 'safe in the knowledge that you will forgive them', she said: 'Not safe, I'm afraid.' 'Celebs who cosied up to a movement intent on eroding women's hard-won rights and who used their platforms to cheer on the transitioning of minors can save their apologies for traumatised detransitioners and vulnerable women reliant on single sex spaces,' the writer added. Despite losing the support of many of the younger cast members of Harry Potter - most of whom are millennials - the older generation of actors who starred in the films have remained her allies. Jason Isaacs, who played Lucius Malfoy in the films, told the Telegraph in 2022: 'There's a bunch of stuff about Jo… I don't want to get drawn into the trans issues, talking about them, because it's such an extraordinary minefield. 'One of the things that people should know about her too - not as a counter-argument - is that she has poured an enormous amount of her fortune into making the world a much better place... through her charity Lumos. 'And that is unequivocally good. Many of us Harry Potter actors have worked for it, and seen on the ground the work that they do.' Rowling clearly has much to look forward to as she turns 60 - with the new Harry Potter HBO reboot on the horizon, while the Broadway and London stage spin-offs continue to experience roaring success.
