UniCredit Puts Decision on Banco BPM Bid on Hold After Italy Imposes Conditions
The Italian bank said Tuesday that the conditions imposed by the Italian government translate into constraints to the way in which the combined entity would run its future credit activities and liquidity and on the group's activities in Russia.

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Yahoo
an hour ago
- Yahoo
Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Versace, Jil Sander Debuts Headline Packed Milan Fashion Week Spring 2026 Schedule
MILAN — A host of debuts at marquee fashion houses and Giorgio Armani's celebrations for his company's 50th anniversary are building anticipation for the upcoming edition of Milan Fashion Week, planned for Sept. 23 to 29. The spring 2026 season boasts one of the highest concentrations of designer debuts in recent history. In Milan, Dario Vitale is to share his vision for Versace; Simone Bellotti for Jil Sander; Louise Trotter for Bottega Veneta, and Demna for Gucci. More from WWD Gucci Reveals 2025 Recipients of the North America Scholarship, Impact Fund and Creative Fellows Program Patricia Gucci's Aviteur Launches New Collection at Harrods Jil Sander CEO Serge Brunschwig Steps Down Not all are embracing the runway format, though. Gucci has earmarked Sept. 23 at 7 p.m. CET to unveil the Georgian's first designs. As reported, Demna's first show for the Italian brand will be next March, with his September presentation more of a reminder of Gucci's foundations. Rumors have swirled in Milan about the exact format of the upcoming showcase, but Gucci has been mum about details. Similarly, Vitale's Versace debut will be an intimate affair rather than a runway show, as first reported by WWD on Tuesday, which explains why the brand isn't featured on the preliminary schedule, which does not include yet Milan Fashion Week events. According to sources, the Versace event planned for Sept. 26 is expected to include a video component. Meanwhile, Trotter's runways show for Bottega Veneta is scheduled for Sept. 28 at 5 p.m. CET, slightly earlier than the brand's usual evening spot, and Bellotti's for Jil Sander in the morning of Sept. 24. Missing from the provisional calendar is Marni, now under the lead of Meryll Rogge, named creative director of the OTB-owned brand this month. Contacted by WWD, a Marni spokesperson said the spring 2026 collection, conceived by the in-house design studio, will be presented to buyers through private showroom appointments. Rogge's vision for the Italian brand will be unveiled for the fall 2026 season, with her runway debut planned for February's Milan Fashion Week. As reported, Paris Fashion Week is also chockablock with creative directors' debuts, at Chanel, Balenciaga, Loewe, Mugler, Jean Paul Gaultier, Maison Margiela, Carven, as well as Jonathan Anderson's seminal womenswear collection for Dior after his menswear debut in June. As many Italian houses embrace new creative chapters, Armani will mark the 50th anniversary of his business. Switching its traditional Sunday morning spot for a nighttime runway show on Sept. 28, the Giorgio Armani spring 2026 collection will be exceptionally paraded in the courtyard of honor of Palazzo Brera, the 17th-century landmark home to the Pinacoteca, the Biblioteca Nazionale Braidense library and the Brera Academy. The Pinacoteca di Brera Museum will also host an exhibition retracing five decades of Giorgio Armani fashion through 150 archival looks, marking the first time the cultural institution has hosted a fashion exhibit. As reported, the fashion house will also unveil a digital project called Armani/Archivio on Aug. 30 during the Venice Film Festival filled with a meticulous catalogue of all Giorgio Armani collections to date. The Giorgio Armani show on Sunday is one of the reasons why Camera della Moda moved the CNMI Sustainable Fashion Awards up one day to Saturday night from its usual spot. In addition, the Italian designer, who turned 91 this month, will host two Emporio Armani shows on Sept. 25. A newcomer to the Milan Fashion Week calendar, London-based Knwls is planning an 8 p.m. show on Sept. 24, as reported, while Indian designer Dhruv Kapoor, who has presented his collections in Milan for the past few years now, traditionally as part of the June and January men's showcases, is moving to the women's calendar. In keeping with their single show per year strategy, The Attico girls Giorgia Tordini and Gilda Ambrosio are staging their third runway display on Sept. 26 and Boss is similarly mounting a show on Sept. 25 for its once-a-year event in Milan. Other brands coming back to the schedule include Stella Jean, Calcaterra and Federico Cina, while Philipp Plein is currently missing from the lineup. Fendi is once again mounting a coed show in September designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi, artistic director of accessories and menswear collections, to continue celebrating its centennial. The brand is also facing changes in its creative direction after the departure of Kim Jones last year. Prada retains its usual 2 p.m. spot on Sept. 25. Among others, Max Mara, Ferrari, Alberta Ferretti and Roberto Cavalli are also not changing their slots. The closing day, Sept. 29, is dedicated to digital presentations, with Italian brand Meincorp by Lorenzo Sala and Ukrainian brand Nadya Dyzak, formerly showing at London Fashion Week, joining the Milan schedule for the first time. The Milan Fashion Week's full schedule, including presentations and events, will be unveiled in September. Best of WWD Bottega Veneta Through the Years Chanel's Ambassadors Over The Years Ranking Fashion's Longest-serving Creative Directors


Eater
2 hours ago
- Eater
NYC's Luxury Dessert Scene Is Booming and Higher Priced Than Ever
At Le Chêne in the West Village, a refined French restaurant that opened in May, dessert comes in the form of a double-handled aluminum baking pan, still warm from the oven and oozing with fresh fruit and baked custard. The oversized dish is their off-menu clafoutis — served with apricots and lavender or cherries, depending on the season — set atop a folded towel on a plate, accompanied by a side of goat's milk ice cream. It's rustic yet traditional, familiar with a twist, gooey in the center with crispy edges, and costs $28 — a dessert price once unheard of on restaurant menus. Much like the $26 'boozeflation' cocktails that have now become standard around the city, entree-sized prices have come for the final frontier of the menu: desserts. It's the $30 meringue with rhubarb at Sailor in Fort Greene or the $39 strawberry cobbler with chamomile ice cream at Stissing House, an upstate destination. But there's more to it than just an outrageous price tag. As restaurants try to stay afloat amidst the rising cost of, well, everything, outsized, high-priced desserts have become a way to stand out. Even as New York's bakery scene flourishes, fewer restaurants are investing in full-time pastry chefs — and those that do increasingly expect those hires to justify their cost with splashy, high-return creations. King Restaurant in SoHo, serving British, Italian, and French-inspired seasonally-driven food, has long been one of the progenitors of modern large-format desserts in New York, before it 'was a trend,' says pastry chef Fiona Thomas. (Lately, it serves a berry pudding, made with brioche, macerated berries, and rosé for $42.) Increasingly, showstopping desserts that surprise and delight are just one more way to bring in more business, whether it's tableside service or larger portions, and set a restaurant apart in a crowded dining landscape. West Village restaurant Zimmi's serves a Far Breton with Armagnac-soaked prunes and crème frâiche ice cream for two at $30, inspired by chef Maxime Pradié's 'family table' in France. Under pastry chef Clodagh Manning, Pradié says the desserts have 'an element of food anthropology,' as it relates to their sharing size. 'I think people really enjoy the interactive element of a large-format dessert,' he says. 'It has a little bit of a cross-pollinating effect too, where people see this larger thing in the dining room and want that.' At Cafe Carmellini, the cherries jubilee for two is $29. Executive pastry chef Jeffrey Wurtz says it's 'an old school, fun presentation, where the servers come out to the table and do a little show where they light it on fire, so there's a nice flame element to it… If people are going out and spending money, they want the full experience.' In Wurtz's view, those kinds of head-turning desserts require dedicated staff. 'I think it's really hard for restaurants that don't have pastry teams to produce really good, elevated pastry desserts,' says Wurtz. 'I would almost rather not have dessert, because why send something out that you wouldn't be proud of?' The clafoutis at Le Chêne. Alexia Duchêne, chef and owner of Le Chêne, says they sell about 12 to 14 large-format clafoutis per night, which amounts to about 25 percent of customers. Diners 'enjoy the fact that we are serving a traditional dessert with a twist,' she says. 'It is fun and playful, and dessert should be generous and decadent, so it totally makes sense that people are leaning toward larger format desserts.' One point to keep in mind is that often, many of these desserts are meant for two. A 'higher priced dessert makes sense if the price doesn't exceed what two individual desserts would cost,' says Duchêne. (The menu makes sure to list it as a shared item to assuage potential sticker shock.) 'I love them, but it needs to stay reasonable in terms of pricing.' Size isn't always the differentiating factor in higher dessert prices. At the Dynamo Room in Midtown, a chocolate tart is $34.95 because of a caviar dollop. 'It's definitely a bit of a splurge, and the pairing is unusual by U.S. standards, but people order it and are pleasantly surprised,' says Jaime Young, co-founder at Sunday Hospitality. It's the most expensive dessert across their group, which also oversees the restaurants at the Hotel Chelsea. While the caviar add-on might be an upsell, the restaurant can get away with it due to being one of the only full-service spots to ball out after a Knicks win at nearby Madison Square Garden. However, MSG ticket holders tend to come and go quickly, the restaurant admits, and they're looking to see whether those diners will stay for a splurge-y finish as the events amp up in the fall. Still, some chefs see the oversized hit of sweetness as a respite for everything going on in the world. 'Desserts offer joy and pleasure, and a celebratory moment,' says Thomas of King restaurant. 'I think people are really happy to have those special little moments in their day that they're sharing with others around a table.'


Bloomberg
3 hours ago
- Bloomberg
Sanctioned Billionaire-Linked Firm Loses €212 Million UK Bond Lawsuit
Maire SpA and its two lenders won a UK court ruling against a €212 million ($243 million) demand by a company linked to a sanctioned billionaire. EuroChem Group AG sued the Italian firm along with Societe Generale SA and ING Groep NV in 2022 in London over a giant construction project that was put on hold after Russia invaded Ukraine. The banks refused to pay a so-called performance bond provided as a guarantee by the Italian engineering group citing European Union 's sanctions targeting Andrey Melnichenko and his wife.