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Hindustan Times
4 days ago
- General
- Hindustan Times
Kebap to Kunefe: These chefs are bringing Turkish flavours to India
Turkish cuisine is delicious, calls for many familiar ingredients, and benefits from the precise cooking that Indian kitchens do exceptionally well. So why does a Google search for 'Turkish food in India' lead to crickets? Where are the home chefs making Jain and paneer versions of Adana kebabs? Why aren't there more döner kiosks at the mall? Why isn't pide, the stuffed flatbread, more popular? Indians are largely discovering the cuisine via one-off dishes in generic Middle-Eastern menus and weekend pop-ups. Adopting the seemingly simple cuisine isn't quite so easy, say chefs who are determined to turn the tide. Kebapci serves popular Turkish dishes like Beetroot Hummus, and Cihan Kebap. On the cusp In Hyderabad, six-month-old Kebapci Hills is merely the newest outpost of the 12-outlet Kebapci chain set up by Aasim Shah, 36, a onetime mechanical engineer and his brother Adeeb, 28, a former corporate lawyer. The menu features the familiar Shish Tavouk and Adana Kebap but also lesser-known delicacies such as the cheese-burst Cihan Kebap and pizza-like Lahmajoun. The brothers didn't go to culinary school, but they both loved Middle Eastern food and Turkish hospitality. And they knew meat. 'I've grown up around it,' Aasim Shah says. 'I understand cut, fat content, how different meats react to temperature.' That knowledge is critical for Turkey's precisely cooked kebabs ('Every five minutes matters,' says Aasim Shah) and for running kitchens as far apart as Chennai and the Maldives. In hot, humid regions — both India and the archipelago are 10°C to 15°C warmer than Turkey — meat spoils faster at room temperature. 'Most kitchens skip cold-storage. They assume the grill's heat will kill bacteria. That's not just short-sighted, it's dangerous.' Turkeyemek's menu includes Turkish delicacies like chicken abugannush. Meat storage is expensive, which partly explains why Turkish and Levantine cuisines haven't yet gained widespread popularity in India. But that's only part of the story. There's also a lingering perception that the food is bland. In truth, the cuisines of Turkey, Armenia, Lebanon, and the broader Eastern Mediterranean are anything but. They're bold, spiced, richly textured. Staying true to the recipes and techniques plays a big role in preserving that complexity. So, good kitchens import zaatar, sumac, nana pepper and thyme and grind them in-house to maintain their punch. They make engineering investments too. Meyhane Leg Rice, a dish of marinated mutton and rice slow-cooked underground for six hours, requires a custom four-and-a-half-foot oven dug into the ground, which restaurants such as Levant in Hyderabad have. Even desserts are tricky: Kunefe, the popular cheese, sugar-soaked, spun pastry is typically made in specialised aluminium trays that are not sold in India. All of it keeps prices up, and copycats at bay. Making connections In Kerala, Turkish national Tarik Hoça, 42, is head chef for the 15 outposts of Bab Arabia and Ali Baba & 41 Dishes. Sourcing is a challenge, he says. Local cinnamon and black pepper are perfect (they are after all exported to Turkey). But grape leaves? 'I've searched everywhere. Without them, dolma doesn't feel right.' And Indian chillies won't do for biber salçası, Turkish red chili paste. He just imports them. But his big concern: How meat is cut. 'For Adana kebab, I need buffalo chest. It needs ribs, proper ribs, not just any bone,' he says. Indian butchers weren't used to these distinctions. 'I spent days with them, explaining which part goes where. Now, I only buy from butchers I've trained.' He also cooked the meat the way they do back home: Medium rare. 'But here, people often see red meat and panic.' So, he just cooks it through. 'You have to adapt.' Chef Tarik Hoça's specialties include the Istanbul kebab. Bengaluru has managed to solve some of these problems. Turkeyemek is a two-year-old cloud kitchen run by Fayis Puzhakkal, 28, and Sameer Kuzhikkattil, 32. 'No one was doing everyday-accessible Turkish food,' says Puzhakkal. They started out from their home kitchen and cooked everything themselves until they could afford a chef. Their menu has grown from a humble four dishes (including ayran, a chaas-like beverage, and the no-bake biscuit cake bisküvi çek) to a solid 35, including their bestseller – Turkish pilaf. They also made one critical decision early on: To use only fresh meat, bought daily. 'We don't freeze it, we don't store it. We cook it the same day,' Puzhakkal says. It means risking the stock running out. But it keeps costs low. 'We don't use processed ingredients. It's mostly butter, olive oil, vegetables, meat, and herbs,' he adds. So, customers associate it with healthy food and don't mind paying a little more. They clock 55 to 60 orders a day. Taste test Chef Gokhan Eser Kesen's signature dishes include pide and Sultan Rice. Gokhan Eser Kesen, 35, an eighth-generation chef, is the keeper of recipes that date back 750 years. He has cooked across 34 countries that were once under Ottoman rule or influence and was recently in Ahmedabad to cater a wedding. Turkish cuisine calls for a light hand with flavouring, he says. His signature dish, Sultan Rice, once served only to emperors, isn't laden with nuts, the way a Mughlai biryani is. 'The flavour comes from just butter and salt,' he says. It's both elegant and simple. It was his specialty at The Terrace, a multi-cuisine restaurant in Srinagar, where he consulted briefly. He knows that the food of his people will have to fight a bit to stay. 'In India, street food is king,' he says. 'You can't make a proper Adana kebab if the meat has been in the sun for five hours.' But even he's serving onion and garlic-free Adana kebabs (made with veggies) at Gujarati weddings and Jain parties to adapt to regional Indian palates. The cuisine has more in common with Indian food than most people realise, Kesen says. Turkish lavash and Kashmiri lavass are similar, right down to the leavening process. 'I even found Ottoman influences in Rajasthani food. We're like a brotherhood!' he says. From HT Brunch, June 28, 2025 Follow us on


Khaleej Times
08-04-2025
- Business
- Khaleej Times
UAE-India remittances see steady growth as investment becomes key driver
Remittances sent to India by UAE residents have continued to rise steadily in recent years. However, according to an industry expert, the motivation behind these money transfers has undergone a significant shift over the past decades. 'Earlier, people used to send money (primarily) for home maintenance,' said Adeeb Ahamed, managing director of Lulu Financial Holdings. "Now, investment has become the key priority. The purpose of remittances has largely changed.' Adeeb explained that one of the reasons for this shift is the growing sense of stability and long-term settlement in the UAE. He said that many now feel comfortable staying in the UAE. "(As a result), we are seeing more home-buying happening in UAE rather than back in India,' he said. 'This means a larger portion of remittances is now directed towards investments in India." He shared these insights while speaking to Khaleej Times on the sidelines of the Dubai-Indian Business Forum, which kicked off in Mumbai, India on Tuesday. The forum coincided with the official visit of Dubai Crown Prince Sheikh Hamdan to India — his first state visit to the country. Organised by Dubai Chambers, the forum brought together over 200 participants, including prominent entrepreneurs from India and the UAE, to explore ways to enhance trade and partnership opportunities. Focus on investments Adeed noted that a significant portion of remittances is now being funnelled into India's stock market. 'The last 3-4 years have been very strong for the stock market in India and have given good returns on investment,' he said. 'Many UAE residents have invested in the stock market and created a passive income for themselves. The real estate market is also fairly good in many regions, so, they have invested into that sector as well.' India was the largest recipient of remittances from the UAE last year, while the UAE stood as the third largest source of remittances to India. 'This year, the UAE is poised to become the second largest corridor for remittance into the country.' During a panel discussion at the forum, Adeeb — who also serves as the Chair of the Federation of Indian Chambers of Commerce and Industry (FICCI) - Arab Council — highlighted how a lack of accessible information had previously hindered UAE-based businesses from exploring Indian investment opportunities. However, that trend is changing, thanks to the India-UAE Comprehensive Economic Partnership Agreement (CEPA) which came into force in 2022.


Express Tribune
19-02-2025
- Entertainment
- Express Tribune
Scriptwriter Nasir Adeeb Reveals Details of Kubra Khan and Gohar Rasheed's Love Story
Kubra Khan and Gohar Rasheed's relationship is nothing short of a fairytale, with a journey that has transitioned from a beautiful friendship into a deep, everlasting love. The two actors, who have shared a bond for over a decade, are now husband and wife after tying the knot in Makkah, a moment made even more special by the Holy Land. Their equation has evolved slowly but surely, from colleagues to close companions, and eventually, life partners. A classic example of the 'friends to lovers' trope, their connection has only grown stronger over time, and now they have the perfect slow-burn romance we all admire. In a recent episode of the Suno Podcast, renowned scriptwriter Nasir Adeeb opened up about the love story of Kubra and Gohar. The podcast, where Adeeb shares his insights into the lives of prominent personalities, was the perfect platform for him to reflect on their journey together. As a man with decades of experience in the entertainment industry, Adeeb has crafted countless memorable stories for the screen. His own legacy speaks volumes about his understanding of human emotions and the depth of relationships, making him the ideal storyteller to recount the journey of this beloved duo. During the podcast, Adeeb poetically described the development of Kubra and Gohar's romance, sharing that their bond was always there but was only recognized when they started working together on the film London Nahin Jaunga. It was on the set of this movie that their friendship began to transform into something much deeper. Adeeb spoke of the quiet, subtle progression of their love story, likening it to the calm but undeniable pull of the ocean. Slowly, over time, their paths started to edge closer to one another—just like the tides, inevitably drawing them together despite the years they had spent as close friends. The scriptwriter explained how both Kubra and Gohar had been a part of each other's lives for a long time, supporting each other through both personal and professional challenges. Gohar, ever the devoted friend, was there for Kubra when she fell ill, showing the depth of their caring relationship. It was through their mutual respect and constant presence in each other's lives that they came to realize their connection was more than just friendship. T he moment they truly acknowledged their feelings for each other was a turning point in their journey, and it was then that they realized the love they had been searching for had been right in front of them the whole time. The love story of Kubra Khan and Gohar Rasheed is one of serendipity and patience, a slow-burning romance that blossomed when they least expected it. Nasir Adeeb's poetic recounting of their story leaves us all reflecting on the beauty of discovering love in the most unexpected of ways. As he wished them well in the podcast, Adeeb's admiration for their journey was clear, and his words serve as a reminder of how love often grows quietly, weaving its way through our lives when we least expect it. Their slow burn romance is something we can all learn from—reminding us that the path to love is not always instantaneous, but when it is right, it feels like it has always been meant to be.