5 days ago
PIL seeks public apology from Prada
MUMBAI: The controversy over Italian luxury fashion house Prada showcasing footwear 'inspired' by Kolhapuri Chappals at the recent Milan Fashion Week has taken a legal turn. A model presents a creation from Prada Spring-Summer 2026 menswear collection during the Milan Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, June 22, 2025. REUTERS/Alessandro Garofalo (REUTERS)
A public interest litigation (PIL) has been filed in the Bombay High Court, accusing Prada of cultural appropriation as the 'Toe Ring Sandals/Leather Flat Sandals' it had showcased on June 22 were near-identical to the traditional, handcrafted footwear made by artisans in Kolhapur, in Maharashtra.
Among other things, the petition has sought a public apology from Prada, and compensation for the artisans engaged in the craft.
The petition, filed by Prof Adv Ganesh S Hingmire, alleges that the product's 'genuine origin, traditional custodianship and Geographical Indication (GI) status were entirely overlooked'. It sought protection and enforcement of the rights of the community associated with the product, along with compensation for the 'unauthorised commercialisation', which has caused 'significant harm' to the community traditionally associated with it.
The petition has also urged the court to direct government entities to safeguard the economic interests and intellectual property rights of indigenous artisans, whose traditional crafts have been granted a Gl tag under the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999.
The petition contends that the design showcased by Prada did not acknowledge Indian artisans who have been making Kolhapuri Chappals for generations. 'The act of copying and misrepresenting this craft in international markets effectively amounts to depriving local artisans of rightful recognition and credit for their work, who have preserved and practiced this traditional art form for nearly 800 years in India,' the petition states.
After the controversy broke, Prada issued a statement acknowledging that the slippers it had showcased had been 'inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage'. 'We deeply recognise the cultural significance of such Indian craftsmanship,' the statement said.
The PIL, however, alleges that 'cultural appropriation' of this nature amounts to more than aesthetic borrowing – it constitutes intellectual and economic exploitation. 'In the past, there have been multiple instances where international brands have imitated traditional Indian crafts without offering any acknowledgment or apology,' states Hingmire, an intellectual property rights advocate known for his contribution to Geographical Indication in India.
It also urged the court to direct Prada to issue a public apology before the court, affirming its genuineness and ensuring that the apology is widely circulated through appropriate media, including but not limited to newspapers, digital platforms and the brand's official communication channels.
The petition underlined the need to establish strong and decisive measures to 'address these violations and set an exemplary legal precedent that deters future acts of cultural misappropriation'. It also suggested the implementation of a permanent, comprehensive policy for international recognition of India's GIs, and the provision of legal and financial support for artisans to enforce their rights.
