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Irish Times
3 hours ago
- Entertainment
- Irish Times
Baba'de restaurant review: You won't eat like this anywhere else in Ireland
Baba'de Address : The Mews, Baltimore, Co. Cork, P81 TC64 Telephone : 028 48112 Cuisine : Turkish Website : Cost : €€€ I'd expected Baba'de, Ahmet Dede and Maria Archer 's more casual follow-up to their acclaimed two-Michelin-star restaurant, Dede in Baltimore, west Cork , to focus on Turkish street food. It does – but there are also rogue dishes at incredibly reasonable prices. You're as likely to get seafood in a fine dining foam as a kebab on flatbread. The setting is the old Mews site , where Dede formerly held a Michelin star as head chef – a 30-seat cottage a few steps from their two-star flagship. The mood is stripped back: bare tables, a short menu split into sea, meadow, garden and dessert, and a wine list that starts at €35. We go for the entry-level red, a chilled Bobal from Valencia (€35) that works across the summer menu. Celebrating? There's a grower champagne, Pierre Moncuit Coulmet, and a strong showing of by-the-glass options. Dede's içli köfte (€16) is about as far from its street food roots as you can get without a wine pairing. If you're sniffy about foams, rethink your position. The yoghurt-garlic sauce is whipped to the brink of collapse but hits with refreshing acidity. On top: dots of isot pepper and fresh mint leaves. Four bulgur dumplings surface – crisp spheres above the froth, sealing in spiced lamb. And under them – because this dish doesn't stop – is a slow-cooked ragout of Fastnet Farm lamb, thick with tomato and heat. Layered, precise, and technically sharp – it is influenced by a two-star signature dish from Dede, served here for the price of a Negroni. Dede's hand shows again with the squid erişte (€15), another dish that arrives under a blanket of aerated sauce – this time a whipped roast pepper velouté, a vivid orange, fizzing at the edges like embers. It comes in a black bowl, dusted with chives and isot pepper, topped with a single curled piece of baby squid. READ MORE Baba'de restaurant: Chef-proprietor Ahmet Dede. Photograph: Andy Gibson Baba'de restaurant: The site of the former Mews in Baltimore. Photograph: Andy Gibson Beneath, tagliatelle-style pasta is cut short to match the thin strips of squid running through the sauce. Traditionally, the dish uses offal – not seafood – and never a red pepper base. But of course it works. Puffed rice, almond crumble and pomegranate molasses pull it squarely into cheffy territory. After two composed, high-wire plates, the menu shifts gear. Ali's hummus (€8) comes topped with crispy chickpeas, red onion and smoked paprika and house-made sourdough. In Turkey, hummus is eaten straight with a fork, like a vegetable side dish, but I fancy it as a dip, so order more of the bread (€2) to swipe it up. The Adana kebab (€16), a thick sausage of grilled lamb, lands on a charred flatbread, streaked with chilli mayonnaise, pickled beetroot and yoghurt. Pickled onions and torn herbs lift the richness, while the bread soaks up the juices. It's satisfying. You ditch the cutlery and just dig in. A rival plate of chicken shawarma (€11) feels almost polite by comparison: barbecued chicken breast, smoky and succulent, spread across another flatbread, topped with garlic yoghurt, sumac and a dusting of crunchy chicken skin. [ Comet review: Is this Ireland's next Michelin star restaurant in the making? Opens in new window ] It would be enough to offer just the hits – a signature from Dede, a knockout Adana kebab – but the menu keeps moving. Baba'de-style fried chicken with brown butter dip lands at the table beside us. Cured haddock with seaweed dashi, and cod with confit leeks (the most expensive dish at €23), are making the rounds for fish lovers. The langoustine spring roll seems particularly popular. There are dishes for people who want fireworks, and others for those who just want to be fed – children, anyone not up for lamb ragout in a yoghurt espuma. One plate looks like a tasting-menu showpiece, the next a weeknight favourite. Somehow, they all belong. Baba'de restaurant: Haddock lakarde. Photograph: Andy Gibson Baba'de restaurant: Içli köfte. Photograph: Andy Gibson Baba'de restaurant: Langoustine spring rolls. Photograph: Andy Gibson Baba'de restaurant: Twomey Clonakilty beef. Photograph: Andy Gibson Baba'de restaurant: Annemin sütlaç. Photograph: Andy Gibson Dessert is annemin sütlaç (€13), billed as 'mother's warm rice pudding'. It's a bowl of warm, loose sütlaç with a scoop of cold brown butter ice cream and a dusting of crushed nuts. It's restrained, with rice that's soft but not overcooked, and a punch of brown butter to finish. This is modern Anatolian cooking, structured around a Nordic-style menu layout, with quietly cheffy execution and a top-tier prep kitchen doing the heavy lifting. It's a lucky dip in the best way – bewildering at times, with no telling whether the next plate's a two-star throwback or a late-night classic. Still flinching at the word 'espuma'? Stay home and eat yoghurt with a spoon. Otherwise, get to Baba'de – the food is bold, the prices are ridiculously reasonable, and you won't eat like this anywhere else in Ireland. Dinner for two with a bottle of wine was €116. The verdict: 9/10. Fine dining meets Turkish comfort food at Ahmet Dede's latest restaurant. Food provenance: Glenmar Fish, Anthony Dwyer, Michael Twomey and Walsh's butchers, and David Bushby. Vegetarian options: Oyster mushroom shawarma, wild chanterelles with mushroom consommé, bulgur köfte, and fennel, goat's curd and beetroot salad. Wheelchair access: Accessible room with no accessible toilet. Music: Modern Turkish pop, rock and jazz mix.
Irish Times
12-07-2025
- Lifestyle
- Irish Times
How to make the perfect burger and lamb kofta on the barbecue
This week we are back on the barbecue, using up cost-effective minced meat to produce two quick and delicious dinners. While there are many recipes for koftas and burgers on the market, elements such as pickled red onion and burger sauce will really elevate your home cooking. Flavour is often found in the less fashionable ingredients. The word koftas, from Persian culture, translates as 'to grind'. I've taken inspiration here from acclaimed Turkish chef Ahmet Dede of Dede restaurant in Baltimore, Co Cork, whom I've long admired for his talent, work ethic and ability to make complex food look incredibly simple to prepare while making it taste incredibly complex. It's quite the skill. His staff food is legendary and I've no doubt these have appeared a few times. The key is an even split of lamb and pork mince; the lamb is packed with flavour while the fat content of the pork mince prevents them from drying out. Toast your spices to reactivate them before blending it all together. Try not to overwork the meat when mixing – it should be ground and tender when you cut into it. Remember, we don't want meat paste. Pickled red onion is another go-to in my house during the summer. It can be made in a large batch and kept in the fridge, adding vibrancy and colour to so many dishes. In fact, the same recipe can be applied to loads of different vegetables that are sliced thinly. By pickling, you are also adding shelf life and saving on waste, as well as adding flavour options. READ MORE The second recipe is a classic smash burger, where the meat patty is pressed into the grill or grate to encourage browning and crisping of the edges. Note the specific cuts of meat for the mince. You can ask your butcher to do this for you. Going the extra mile will repay you handsomely in flavour – all you need to do is add some salt and pepper. Like the kofta, the aim is to avoid overworking the meat so it doesn't turn into paste. The real magic lies in the sauce. The addition of chopped capers, gherkins and dill will remind you of a very famous burger from a notable fast-food chain. This is delicious; once you try it, you'll never go back. Now, all we need is proper sunshine. Recipe: Barbecue lamb kofta with pickled red onion Recipe: Barbecue smash burgers with dill pickle sauce
Irish Examiner
20-05-2025
- Business
- Irish Examiner
Cork restaurant named best in Ireland at Irish Restaurant Awards
A popular Cork restaurant has been named best restaurant at this year's Irish Restaurant Awards All-Ireland final. Dede at the Customs House in Baltimore, one of only five two-star Michelin restaurants in Ireland, was named best restaurant at the awards ceremony held at the Clayton Hotel on Burlington Road in Dublin on Monday. Dede is run by Turkish-born chef Ahmet Dede and his business partner Maria Archer, and offers a fusion of Turkish and Irish foods. Together, they opened Dede after purchasing the village's Customs House in 2019, and the restaurant has since been awarded two Michelin stars - one in 2021 and one in 2023. The restaurant was also crowned the All-Ireland winner at the 2024 Irish Restaurant Awards, continuing their success at the awards this year by winning best restaurant for the second consecutive year. Posting on X following the restaurant's win, Dede wrote: "Amazing thank you @restawards for this incredible award, what a wonderful achievement again from the best team in the world so proud of you all. Consistently getting better and keep pushing for more that's the spirit and the dedication for what we do. Thank you all and congratulations to all other winners." Ahmet Dede and Maria Archer at The Customs House, Baltimore. Picture: Miki Barlok John Kelly of the Lady Helen Restaurant at Mount Juliet Estate in Kilkenny was awarded best chef in Ireland, and renowned Chef Neven Maguire was also honoured with the Outstanding Achievement Award, recognising his contribution to Irish food and hospitality. The All-Ireland final of the 2025 Irish Restaurant Awards took place at the Clayton Hotel on Burlington Road in Dublin on Monday, where over 1,000 of the country's top hospitality professionals, including owners, chefs, managers, and staff, gathered to celebrate the finest establishments in Irish food and drink. Now in its 16th year, the Irish Restaurant Awards received a record-breaking 165,000 public nominations for restaurants, cafés, and venues across the country - the highest in the Awards' history. 💫Amazing thank you @restawards for this incredible award, what a wonderful achievement again from the best team in the world so proud of you all. Consistently getting better and keep pushing for more tats the spirit and the dedication for what we do. Thank you all and… — Ahmet Dede (@chefahmetdede) May 20, 2025 Entries were submitted by the public via The Irish Times website, media partner of the awards. In the lead-up to the national final, regional awards ceremonies were hosted in Kildare, Cork, Sligo and Monaghan, where county-level winners were revealed across a range of categories. The national winners were selected from these regional champions. Each year, funds are raised for chosen charity causes at the All-Ireland final of the Irish Restaurant Awards. This year, substantial funds were raised for both Friends of the Elderly and Tourist SOS. Speaking on the night, president of the Restaurants Association of Ireland, Seán Collender, said: 'At a time when our industry continues to face significant challenges, it's more important than ever to come together and celebrate the strength of Ireland's food and hospitality sector. These Awards are about acknowledging the incredible talent and tireless work of those in our restaurants, cafés and kitchens across the country. 'They shine a light on the resilience and creativity that define our industry. Behind every meal served is a team of passionate professionals dedicated to delivering unforgettable experiences. 'This year's awards have once again highlighted the extraordinary standard of culinary talent across every region. The Michelin Star Lady Helen Restaurant Head Chef John Kelly. 'I want to extend heartfelt congratulations to all of our winners and nominees - your commitment and passion inspire us all.' In response to his win, Chef Kelly of the Lady Helen Restaurant at Mount Juliet Estate, said: "This award reflects the creativity, passion, and teamwork that drives our kitchen every day. 'The Lady Helen is a celebration of the finest local ingredients, brought to life by an extraordinary team that shares my commitment to creating exceptional dining experiences."
Irish Times
19-05-2025
- Business
- Irish Times
Who were the big winners at the Irish Restaurant Awards? Best restaurant, chef and more revealed
Two of Ireland's Michelin -star restaurants led the honours at the Irish Restaurant Awards on Monday night, when Dede at the Customs House, Baltimore, Co Cork, was named best restaurant, and John Kelly of the Lady Helen Restaurant at Mount Juliet Estate was awarded best chef in Ireland. It is the second year running that Dede, with Turkish chef Ahmet Dede at the helm, has won the best restaurant category. The Baltimore restaurant opened during the pandemic in 2020, and within the year had gained a Michelin star . It added a second star in 2023 – one of just five Irish restaurants to hold the honour. Kelly of Mount Juliet Estate's Lady Helen Restaurant in Kilkenny took home the best chef award. Kelly is commended in the Michelin Guide for his 'boldly flavoured, visually impressive dishes that are skilfully prepared'. More than 1,000 of the country's top industry professionals gathered at Dublin's Clayton Hotel on Burlington Road to celebrate the best in Irish hospitality. TV chef and restaurateur Neven Maguire was honoured with an outstanding achievement award in recognition for his contribution to Irish food and hospitality. Maguire runs MacNean House and Restaurant in Blacklion, Co Cavan, as well as a cookery school and has broadcast more than 200 episodes of his TV cookery show. READ MORE Irish Restaurant Awards: TV chef and restaurateur Neven Maguire was honoured with an outstanding achievement award in recognition for his contribution to Irish food and hospitality. Photograph: Alan Betson [ Michelin-starred restaurants in Ireland, 2025: The complete guide Opens in new window ] Best newcomer restaurant went to Bearú in New Ross, Co Wexford. Having moved from Dublin in 2020, husband-and-wife team Dave Rowley and Siobhán Ward opened Bearú last July. In her review , Irish Times restaurant critic Corinna Hardgrave described the cafe by day/restaurant by night as 'a convivial bistro serving confident, well-priced food without a hint of pretension. A breath of fresh air that blows well beyond Dublin's well-trodden paths.' Other finalists in the category included Dublin's Forêt , Munster's Baba'de (sister restaurant to Dede), Connaught's Oifig an Fish and Ulster's No 9 Market Square. Pub of the year went to Sean's Bar in Athlone, Ireland's oldest pub on the banks of the Shannon, while Strandfield cafe, florist and grocer in Ballymascanlon, Co Louth, was awarded best cafe in Ireland. Now in its 16th year, the Irish Restaurant Awards received a record-breaking 165,000 public nominations for restaurants, cafes and venues around Ireland. Entries were submitted by members of the public via The Irish Times website, media partner of the awards. [ Great places to eat in Ireland if you're smart with your money Opens in new window ] In the lead-up to the national final, regional awards ceremonies were hosted in Kildare, Cork, Sligo and Monaghan, where county-level winners were revealed across a range of categories. The national winners were selected from these regional champions. Speaking at the awards ceremony in Dublin's Burlington Hotel on Monday night, president of the Restaurants Association of Ireland, Seán Collender, said: 'These awards are about acknowledging the incredible talent and tireless work of those in our restaurants, cafes and kitchens across the country. They shine a light on the resilience and creativity that define our industry. Behind every meal served is a team of passionate professionals dedicated to delivering unforgettable experiences.' Chef John Kelly of the Lady Helen Restaurant at Mount Juliet Estate: he was named best chef at the Irish Restaurant Awards on Monday night Irish Restaurant Awards 2025: The winners Best Restaurant - Sponsored by San Miguel Leinster: Thyme Restaurant Connacht: Lignum Ulster: MacNean House & Restaurant Dublin: Chapter One Munster: Dede at the Customs House, Baltimore All Ireland: Dede at the Customs House, Baltimore Best Chef - Sponsored by BWG Food Service Ulster: Ciarán Sweeney, The Olde Glen Bar, Restaurant & Bia Box Munster: Brian Murray, The Glass Curtain Dublin: Visham Sumputh, Etto Connacht: Yvonne Kathrein, Poacher Restaurant Leinster: John Kelly, Lady Helen Restaurant at Mount Juliet Estate All Ireland: John Kelly, Lady Helen Restaurant at Mount Juliet Estate Best Restaurant Manager - Sponsored by Elavon Connacht: Shirley Stirzaker, Dining Room Leinster: William Wong, Saba Munster: Sophie McCauley, Homestead Cottage Ulster: Laura Connolly, The Oak Room Restaurant Dublin: Cian Lynch, Uno Mas All Ireland: Cian Lynch, Uno Mas Best Hotel & Guesthouse Restaurant - Sponsored by Frylite Ulster: Snaffles Restaurant at Castle Leslie Estate Leinster: The Sea Rooms at Kelly's Resort Munster: Landline at Park Hotel Kenmare Dublin: The Saddle Room at The Shelbourne Connacht: George V at Ashford Castle All Ireland: George V at Ashford Castle Best Use of Social Media – Sponsored by GRID Finance Leinster: Little Acorn Cafe Dublin: Kicky's Connacht: Hooked Ulster: Sonder Munster: Hotel Woodstock All Ireland: Hotel Woodstock Employee Excellence Award - Sponsored by Peninsula Leinster: Jackie Cullen, Mary Barry's Bar Connacht: Emma Cavanagh, Nook Cafe and Restaurant Munster: Geraldine Ward, Everett's Restaurant Ulster: Liam McKenna, Armagh City Hotel Dublin: Charlie O'Reilly, Happy Out x Together Academy All Ireland: Charlie O'Reilly, Happy Out x Together Academy Best Casual Dining - Sponsored by Musgrave MarketPlace Munster: Momo Restaurant Ulster: Frae Leinster: The Valley Inn Connacht: Guys Seafood Bar Dublin: Crudo All Ireland: Crudo Gastro Pub - Sponsored by Paynt Ulster: Murph's Gastro Pub Dublin: HERA Leinster: The Glyde Inn Munster: JM Reidy's Connacht: McSwiggans All Ireland: McSwiggans Best Café - Sponsored by Lavazza Dublin: Two Boys Brew Munster: Seagull Bakery Connacht: POTA Ulster: Ursa Minor Leinster: Strandfield All Ireland: Strandfield Best Contemporary Irish Cuisine - Sponsored by FBD Insurance Connacht: The Lavender Restaurant Dublin: Volpe Nera Munster: Saint Francis Provisions Leinster: Arán Artisan Bakery & Bistro Ulster: The Olde Post Inn All Ireland: The Olde Post Inn Best Newcomer - Sponsored by Square Munster: Baba'de Connacht: Oifig An Fish Ulster: No. 9 Market Square Dublin: Forêt Leinster: Bearú All Ireland: Bearú Pub of the Year - Sponsored by istil.38 Dublin: Neary's Ulster: The Reel Inn Connacht: Matt Molloy's Munster: An Siopa Dubh Leinster: Sean's Bar All Ireland: Sean's Bar Best Wine Experience - Sponsored by Bibendum Ulster: OX Leinster: Ballyfin Demesne Munster: UNioN Wine Bar & Kitchen Connacht: Daróg Wine Bar Dublin: Bar Pez All Ireland: Bar Pez Best Customer Service - Sponsored by provided by Dolmen Leinster: Monart Connacht: Arno's Bistrot Ulster: Noble Dublin: Roly's Bistro Munster: Restaurant Chestnut All Ireland: Restaurant Chestnut Best World Cuisine – Sponsored by National Chef de Partie Apprenticeship & National Sous Chef Apprenticeship Programmes Connacht: Mama Rich Woodquay Ulster: Chilli Lounge Leinster: Tābú Munster: Tango Street Food Dublin: Rasam Restaurant All Ireland: Rasam Restaurant Best Sustainable Practices - Sponsored by Familia Torres & the Findlater Group Dublin: Glas Restaurant Munster: Ballygarry Estate Hotel Leinster: Ballykilcavan Farm and Brewery Connacht: Honestly Farm Kitchen Ulster: Lir All Ireland: Lir Innovator of the Year - Sponsored by Diageo Ulster: Foam Connacht: Ugly D's Pizza Leinster: Fiona Egan, Cloughan Farm & Cookery School Munster: Trawler Boyz Ballycotton Dublin: Bar 1661 All Ireland: Bar 1661 Local Food Hero - Sponsored by Sugar Snap Leinster: Tom and Laura Sinnott, Wexford Home Preserves Munster: Kasha Connolly, Hazel Mountain Chocolate Connacht: The Calvey Family, Calveys Achill Mountain Lamb Dublin: Jess Kelly, The Village Butcher Ulster: Jonny Cuddy, Ispini Charcuterie All Ireland: Jonny Cuddy, Ispini Charcuterie Outstanding Achievement Award – Sponsored by Excel Recruitment All Ireland: Neven Maguire, MacNean House & Restaurant Best Cocktail Experience – Sponsored by Monin All Ireland: Darren Geraghty, Hawksmoor Food Truck of the Year – Sponsored by provided by Dolmen All Ireland: Julia's Lobster Truck Best Cookery School – Avonmore All Ireland: Dingle Cookery School Best Learning and Development - Restaurant & Hospitality Skillnet All Ireland: O'Dwyers
