3 days ago
Can peptides really help erase wrinkles? Dermatologists weigh in
In you've shopped for any kind of skin care products over the past year, you've probably noticed peptides popping up everywhere. As the beauty world's trendiest, anti-aging ingredient du jour, these small chains of amino acids (which are the building blocks of proteins) are now present in everything from lip plumpers to hair-growth tonics. But experts say their most promising use is as part of an effective daily skin care routine, where research suggests they may in fact have a Botox-like effect on wrinkles by softening fine lines, building collagen and brightening and plumping wizened skin as they go.
How do peptides work?
"In skin care, peptides are used to mimic natural processes in the skin and encourage anti-aging effects like collagen production, skin repair and improv[ed] elasticity," says board-certified dermatologist and facial plastic surgeon Dr. Akshay Sanan. "As we age, collagen production declines, leading to wrinkles, sagging, and thinner skin. Signal peptides, like Matrixyl and copper peptides send messages to skin cells, essentially 'telling' them to produce more collagen, elastin and other structural proteins to keep the skin firm and plump." Sanan says peptides also strengthen the skin barrier, protecting against moisture loss and environmental damage. And, yes, "some peptides even have a 'Botox-like' effect by relaxing facial muscles and reducing the depth of wrinkles caused by repetitive movements," Sanan explains.
Should you try peptides?
Dermatologists I spoke with agreed that if you've reached an age when you're starting to spot wrinkles and collagen loss, it's worth adding peptides to your skin care regimen, if only for their plumping, moisturizing effects. In term of acting as a Botox-y wrinkle eraser, research suggests a quality peptide product will soften lines, though the result will be more subtle and less dramatic than that of a neurotoxin. "Collagen peptides do work to boost collagen production in the skin which may, over time, reduce the appearance of wrinkles," says Houston cosmetic surgeon Dr. Rukmini Rednam.
What should I look for in a peptide serum?
There are loads of types of peptides, but for the most bang for your skin care buck, experts recommend seeking out complexes with the most clinical data behind them, which essentially narrows things down to the Matrixyl 3000 blend and copper peptides. Both of which have some research to back up their claims, with benefits that include skin barrier support, wrinkle softening and complexion brightening.
How should I use a peptide serum?
Peptides are one of those skin care ingredients you can add to your routine both in the morning and at night. And, as is the case with any lighter-weight serum, for best absorption, these products should be applied after cleansing your face but before you slather on heavier creams like moisturizers and sunscreens. In terms of more detailed order of operations, you can combine peptides with vitamin C and layer them with retinoids, but most skin care experts say you shouldn't mix them with an exfoliating products.
Our top 5 favorite peptide serums
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The reviews quoted above reflect the most recent versions at the time of publication.
