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Eater
2 days ago
- Entertainment
- Eater
Why Alinea Is One of the U.S.'s Most Influential Restaurants
Maximalism and gastronomic creativity rule the day at Alinea, arguably one of the most famous (and most relentlessly blogged about) restaurants in the United States. Chef Grant Achatz, along with then-partner Nick Kokonas, opened the restaurant in May of 2005 in Chicago's Lincoln Park, and immediately intrigued an American food public weary of the routine fine dining choices. Since its opening night, meals at Alinea promised more than two dozen courses that featured wisps of smoke, bites hanging from tightropes, and all manner of flavors (milkweed pods! Dandelion roots and tobacco and lavender!) deconstructed, gelled, foamed, frozen, candied, microplaned, and all painstakingly grafted back together in wholly unexpected ways. Achatz was immediately vaulted into the echelon of the country's most influential chefs; later dishes like the apple taffy floating balloon and painted-table dessert became iconic. In addition to accolades — a 2007 James Beard Award for Achatz for Best Chef: Great Lakes, a 2016 James Beard Award for Outstanding Restaurant, numerous appearances on the World's 50 Best List, 3 Michelin stars — its mark is also felt in countless imitators who embraced the scientific, slightly gonzo approach to dining as an experience. The Alinea Group would expand to seven other concepts — including Next, which rotates its culinary focus every few months, and cocktail bar the Aviary. And many folks who spent time in the Alinea Group have gone on to make their own independent mark on the culinary world: Curtis Duffy, Dave Beran, John Shields, Alex Stupak, Jenner Tomaska, Jeff Pikus. In 2014, Ruth Reichl wrote: 'What makes Alinea such a fabulous experience is the sheer exuberant fun of the place. This is food as performance, food as surprise, food as you've never seen it before.' The restaurant still holds three Michelin stars. Today, Achatz reflects on 20 years at Alinea and considers what lies ahead. I had worked at the French Laundry and El Bulli, and felt there was a gap in fine dining, because prior to 2005, it was mostly [defined as] French cuisine: There were a few French culinarians in the U.S., like Daniel Boulud, but primarily it was showing up in Western Europe. In 2005, we're right at the peak of El Bulli, the Fat Duck — molecular kind of gastronomy. So we felt like it was an opportunity. With us and wd~50, it just migrated over the pond. In Chicago, the whole gastronomy scene was on a reset. Here, you had Schwa, which was basically a garage band doing highly, highly creative, well-executed food. You had a lot of older French restaurants, like Everest. You had Rick Bayless's places that had been around for a long time and were niche and Mexican-focused, and then you had Paul Kahan with Blackbird. An early but undated photo of the Alinea team shows, from left to right: John Shields (now chef-owner of Chicago's Smyth and the Loyalist), Achatz, and Curtis Duffy (now chef-owner of Chicago's Ever). Alinea It was ripe. Chicago was ready. Chicago was a town that embraces innovation and artistry with its history of architecture, music, and medicine. Our opening was really anticipated at that time, because I was blogging prior to the opening on eGullet, back when those forums were popular. That was the moment of the internet foodies. And so the anticipation was really high. We had a lot of attention right off the bat: We had Frank Bruni, then the restaurant critic at the New York Times, in the restaurant on opening night. Having a critic out of New York City at the time was unheard of, certainly on opening night. Achatz calls 'Hot Potato, Cold Potato' one of his favorite dishes served opening night: 'I felt it really embodied the spirit and the ethos of the restaurant at that time.' An elegant culinary game between hot and cold temperatures, it featured a hot ball of potato suspended over a creamy, chilled potato soup; the diner would sip all in one go and experience the same flavor in two temperatures at the same time. Alinea A brand-new 2025 dish called 'Fossil' invites guests to use an archeology toolkit to brush away 'debris' and uncover the food underneath. 'It's inspired by South American archeological finds, and my and the executive chefs' fascination with archeology,' Achatz says. 'We figured out a way to make a 'forest' that gastronomically fit into Argentina, which has the largest concentration of fossils in the world. It's pretty elaborate.' Alinea We were fortunate enough to be pretty popular off the bat. We just got super busy, and honestly, it never stopped. And then, in 2007, I got diagnosed with stage 4 tongue cancer. A lot of the guests weren't sure if they should even still visit. It was quiet for a bit while I was going to treatment. On the back end of 2008, we started to pick up some momentum. In 2010, the World's 50 Best named us Best in North America. And then in 2011, they did the same. And that really put us on the public diner's map. In 2016, after we were 10 years old, we renovated. With the downstairs dining room came this experimental menu. So that really catapulted our creativity further, and we just never stopped. I don't think we ever will. Thinking back on 20 years, there's an element of maturity that's hard to articulate. When you've had restaurants like Le Bernadin and the French Laundry, restaurants that have been around for 20 years or more, there's a certain intangible maturity. I believe that the employees and their guests can feel that. Looking back, I appreciate our resilience. The pandemic was disastrous for everyone, and the fact that we made it through that, that we kept everybody employed, I'm very proud of. Everything has changed. Wages have changed; rents have changed. There's a lot more reform to do. Here at the restaurant, it's changed tremendously. Back in 2005, there was a cliche of repression, toxicity, 17-hour days; nobody cared, nobody got paid. And now that has dramatically changed. Interview has been edited and condensed for clarity. Sign up for Eater's newsletter The freshest news from the food world every day Email (required) Sign Up By submitting your email, you agree to our Terms and Privacy Notice . This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
Eater
16-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Eater
Five Chicago Restaurants Join the 2025 Michelin Guide
is the James Beard Award-winning regional editor for Eater's Midwest region, and in charge of coverage in Chicago, Detroit, and the Twin Cities. He's a native Chicagoan and has been with Eater since 2014. In recent years, Michelin has drummed up more attention by announcing new additions, a precursor to the tire guide's party, held last year in December in New York, where it shares which Chicago restaurants earned stars. Perhaps having the new announcement confuses the consumer with another category, but it does add a level of drama for chefs while building more anticipation in a sea of 'best of' dining lists littering the Internet (this publication included). Stars traditionally recognize fine dining and are viewed by many as one of the top honors a restaurant can achieve (a reminder — chefs aren't awarded Michelin Stars, the entire restaurant shares the achievement). Chicago currently has 21 Michelin-starred restaurants, with two — Alinea and Smyth — earning the maximum three-star rating. Officially, the Bib Gourmand designation debuted in 1997 as a way to recognize restaurants with affordable prices and quality food. In some ways, a Bib was viewed as a consolation for restaurants that didn't earn stars. The guide began recognizing 'reasonable prices' in 1955 when it marked a restaurant with an 'R.' The Bib Gourmand replaced that designation. Here's a rundown of Michelin's five adds, which may or may not appear on the tire guide's list of stars or Bib Gourmands. Mirra Mirra in Bucktown has made a splash. Garrett Sweet/Eater Chicago Mirra is from Top Chef alum Zubair Mohajir, who burst onto Chicago's scene with the Coach House, a fine dining restaurant that celebrated Indian flavors through his unique upbringing in South India and Qatar. He teams up with chef Rishi Manoj Kumar, a chef of Indian heritage who grew up in Singapore. Kumar immersed himself in Mexican cuisine while working for Rick Bayless. The duo created Mirra as an outlet to combine South Asian and Mexican flavors in unexpected ways, like a lamb barbacoa biryani with a pastry shell baked over to keep in the aromatics. Michelin says this of the Bucktown restaurant: 'This cross-cultural menu weaves Mexican and Indian narratives in a vibrantly convincing manner.' Nadu Nadu's regional Indian cuisine stars in Lincoln Park. Michelin/Kevin White Sujan Sarkar is an eccentric; don't let his quiet demeanor fool you. The chef behind Indienne, Chicago's only Michelin-starred Indian restaurant, has toned it down a bit at Nadu, which he says goes back to basics with more of a traditional spin on Indian food, but not a boring one or one packed with an overuse of heat, cilantro, and onions. The menu takes Lincoln Park diners through a tour of different regions of the subcontinent. Michelin remarks: 'There's plenty to sample, including meen gassi, or walleye in a rich and spicy coconut and tamarind curry infused with dried chilies, turmeric, and curry leaves,' adding, 'Vegetable moilee with a light and fragrant coconut curry and a variety of seasonal vegetables is best when accompanied by ghee bhat or naan.' Tama Tama in Bucktown features a menu with several global influences. Chris Peters/Eater Chicago Greek chef Avgeria Stapaki has teamed with chef Adalberto Olaez on a unique Bucktown spot that dials up a trifecta of Mediterranean, South American, and East Asian influences. A katsu sandwich is topped with preserved lemon aioli, for example, and empanadas are stuffed with braised lamb. Michelin raves about the menu, talking up 'charred oyster mushrooms tossed with caramelized chopped hazelnuts are mixed tableside with a thick miso yogurt for a savory opener, while short rib orzo loaded with Parmesan is perfectly indulgent.' Taqueria Chingón Taqueria Chingón has made the move from Bucktown to Fulton Market. Garrett Sweet/Eater Chicago Taqueria Chingón has found its way from Bucktown to Fulton Market, bringing its same ethos of honest cooking with great ingredients. The octopus roasted on a trompo is one of the restaurant's most popular dishes. The restaurant is from the owners of Obelix and Le Bouchon, showing off a small French influence when it comes to cooking techniques. The specials grabbed Michelin's attention: 'Ever had a blood sausage taco with salsa macha? Here's your chance.' Oliver's Oliver's is a rare spot on the South Side that combines a great wine list, cocktails, and a solid menu. Garrett Sweet/Eater Chicago Oliver's started as a pandemic meal kit service, with food from a chef who worked at the French Laundry. Once restrictions were lifted, owners eased into their South Loop space, sharing a quality menu including a top-notch burger, roasted chicken, and killer cocktails. Owner Jason Weingarten opened this restaurant before taking the reins as CEO of the Alinea Group: 'The walls are hung with paintings and photographs, and cushioned chairs lend a 1930s Hollywood vibe to chef Alex Carnovale's stylish spot,' Michelin writes. 'Meanwhile, in the kitchen, it's all about seafood sporting global influences. Quality ingredients are allowed to shine without a lot of fuss.' Eater Chicago All your essential food and restaurant intel delivered to you Email (required) Sign Up By submitting your email, you agree to our Terms and Privacy Notice . This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. Taqueria Chingon Location 817 West Fulton Market, Chicago, Illinois 60607 External Link Phone (773) 687-9408 Link A trio of Mexican chefs who worked at popular French restaurants La Sardine and Le Bouchon have moved from Bucktown to Fulton Market, bringing some of the most sought-after street tacos in town, including highlights such as al pastor, morcilla (blood sausage), and duck carnitas. Place orders via Toast.
Forbes
15-07-2025
- Business
- Forbes
Tock Looks Back On And Celebrates 10 Years As An Industry Disruptor
Tock, a restaurant booking platform that pioneered prepaid dining reservations, is celebrating its tenth year in 2025. The tool aims to decrease reservation abandonment, contributing to potential cost savings. Its introduction a decade ago disrupted the restaurant industry and marked a shift in reservation management. Tock's origin story starts with a frustrated restaurant owner. Nick Kokonas, the co-founder of three-Michelin-starred Alinea in Chicago, was facing challenges. Even as one of the most sought-after fine dining destinations in the country, Alinea continued to experience hurdles like last-minute cancellations and no-shows. Dr. Larry Yu, a professor of hospitality management at The George Washington University, has commented that 'the general understanding in the U.S. restaurant industry is that about one out of five customers often do not show up for restaurant reservations. Effectively a 20% no-show rate across restaurants, pubs, and bars in the U.S.' This reservation absenteeism had a major impact at Alinea, where the tasting menu dinner can cost upwards of $300 a head. Kokonas realized that other big ticket experiences—like concerts, hotels and flying—all had systems in place to deter last-minute cancellations and no-shows. So, he set out to bring the same level of accountability to the restaurant industry. Kokonas created an in-house system that required people who wanted to reserve a table at Alinea prepay for their meal. This approach provided greater consistency in managing inventory, staffing and revenue. The restaurant's no-show rate was basically eliminated. This success soon attracted interest from other restaurateurs and in 2014, Kokonas transformed the platform into an independent company, Tock. Tock data suggests that requiring some form of upfront commitment—whether a deposit, credit card hold, or full prepayment—can significantly reduce no-shows. Even a small deposit at the time of booking tends to lower absenteeism, with fully prepaid reservations showing the most dramatic impact. 'We saw an opportunity to completely rethink reservations,' Matt Tucker, head of Tock, said in an email. "At Alinea, a no-show wasn't just inconvenient. It was costly. Instead of continuing with the status quo, we introduced our own product, Tock, and prepaid bookings to the industry. Tock gave restaurants financial certainty, reduced friction for the guests and the restaurant, and allowed us to treat reservations more like ticketing for an experience.' The prepaid reservation system began with Alinea, and eventually evolved. Tock has now been adopted by more than just restaurants—wineries, pop-ups and experience-driven businesses are using the system to gain stronger guest commitment. According to Tock, there are now over 7,000 businesses that use and benefit from the system. When reflecting on some of the first restaurants to use Tock, Tucker says they all had something in common, they were "innovators who wanted to challenge the norms." "Whether it was OTOKO in Austin rethinking omakase, or Cow by Bear throwing anonymous dinner parties in San Diego, these restaurants valued experience," Tucker said in an email, "Tock let them monetize that experience in a thoughtful, sustainable way.' The Tock 10- The Firsts To commemorate its birthday milestone, Tock is looking back on its 10 years with 'The Tock 10.' This monthly collective celebrates 10 businesses that use the tool and groups them together under a common theme. The "Tock 10-The Firsts" list highlights some of the first restaurants who believed in the benefit of Tock and adopted the tool. Alinea (Chicago, IL) Lazy Bear (San Francisco, CA) Staplehouse (Atlanta, GA) Kadence (Orlando, FL) Spoon and Stable (Minneapolis, MN) otoko x watertrade (Austin, TX) Cow by Bear (San Diego, CA) Smyth (Chicago, IL) OSAKANA (New York, NY) Inn of the Seventh Ray (Topanga, CA) • On what the model unlocked for growth: o 'For many of these restaurants who were early adopters to pre-paid reservations, it meant consistency and creativity could coexist. They had predictable revenue, more control over service, and fewer operational headaches.' • On the broader shift in hospitality: o 'The best dining experiences are more than just a meal. They're curated, intentional, and often interactive. The restaurants in the original Tock 10 understood that early. They paved the way for how restaurants operate today. Tock gave them the tools to succeed on their own terms.' • On what's to come: o 'We evolve with our partners. The needs of the hospitality industry are constantly changing, and we listen and deliver.'
National Geographic
24-06-2025
- Entertainment
- National Geographic
If The Bear has inspired you to explore Chicago's fine-dining scene, try these restaurants
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). From beef sandwiches to Michelin-star-seeking menus — TV show The Bear's fictional restaurant has given us a story arc that, in many ways, mirrors the real-life culinary history of the city it's set in. Just as the Original Beef of Chicagoland was transformed from a sauce-splattered sandwich bar into the show's titular fine-dining venture, so too has Chicago evolved from a meatpacking capital to one of America's pioneering food cities. One upon a time, fine dining in the Windy City mostly consisted of steak and potatoes. Then in 1987, Charlie Trotter opened his eponymous restaurant in Lincoln Park. Using French and Japanese techniques and lots of fresh vegetables, Trotter — like The Bear's chef, Carmy — was determined never to repeat a menu. He transformed Chicagoans' idea of what fine dining could be and influenced the next generation of chefs. Charlie Trotter's closed in 2012 (Trotter's son has promised to reopen it later this year, following a successful pop-up venue in the restaurant's original location on Armitage Avenue), but today, inventive high-end restaurants in the city abound. Here are a few of the very best. Meals at Alinea are playful and have helped the 20-year Chicago establishment become the first restaurant in the city to earn three Michelin stars. Its executive chef, Grant Achatz, made a cameo as himself in the third season of The Bear. Photograph by The Alinea Group Alinea, Lincoln Park Chef Grant Achatz was a Charlie Trotter disciple before he turned his attention to molecular gastronomy. Meals at Alinea are playful, featuring vapours, gels and balloons, food masquerading as other food and blocks of nitrogen-frozen dessert that diners get to smash. Now 20 years old, Alinea was the first restaurant in the city to earn three Michelin stars and has become a Chicago classic, but the kitchen maintains its capacity for wonder and delight. Tasting menus from $325 (£240). There's plenty of fresh produce on Atelier's ever-changing menu. Many of Atelier's dishes reflect the immigrant communities that continue to build the city. Atelier, Lincoln Square Atelier's ever-changing menu embodies the Chicago area itself. There's plenty of fresh produce raised on local farms or foraged from Midwestern forests and fields, but many of the dishes also reflect the immigrant communities that continue to build the city. And that's how diners may find themselves eating foie gras served on a bagel with boshi agrodolce (a Japanese and Italian-inspired sweet and sour sauce) or a Korean carrot salad made with locally grown purple carrots: a true taste of the Midwest. Tasting menu from $175 (£130). Bavette's, River North Bavette's is a throwback. The restaurant itself is hidden, speakeasy-style, in a basement, a nod to Prohibition-era Chicago (though today without the obvious gangster contingent). And the menu is filled with old-school classics: seafood towers, martinis, wedge salads and all manner of steak, from the humble steak frites to a whopping 32-ounce porterhouse. And naturally, this being Chicago, there's pie — try lemon meringue or chocolate cream — and hot fudge sundaes for dessert. With the dim, romantic lighting, eating here feels like you're getting away with something. Three courses for around $150 (£110). Cariño's menu looks similar to those of nearby taquerias: tacos, empanadas, quesadillas. But look closer and notice unusual ingredients, imaginatively deployed. Photograph by Kelly Sandos Photography Day of the Dead décor found at Cariño. Opt for the eight-course taco omakase (chef's choice), served on tortillas crafted from house-made masa dough. Photograph by Kelly Sandos Photography Cariño, Uptown At first glance, Cariño's menu looks similar to those of nearby taquerias: tacos, empanadas, quesadillas. But look closer and notice unusual ingredients, imaginatively deployed. That quesadilla, for instance, comes not with the usual carne asada (sliced, grilled steak) or marinated pork al pastor but pumpernickel, Oaxaca cheese and black garlic. The ravioli stuffed with huitlacoche (corn smut fungus) — also known as Mexican truffle — is a particular revelation. Or opt for the eight-course taco omakase (chef's choice), served on tortillas crafted from house-made masa dough. Tasting menu from $200 (£148). Indienne's tasting menu is available in vegetarian, vegan and pescatarian variations. Photograph by John Burger Indienne, River North As one might guess from its name, Indienne features South Asian flavours in French-influenced presentations. Here, malai (cream) chicken is transformed into a mousse and served with truffles and a cheese emulsion, while the pani puri (fried wheat or semolina shells) arrive at the table covered with a dome made of buckwheat pastry. The tasting menu is also available in vegetarian, vegan and pescatarian variations, making this a good choice for those with dietary considerations. Tasting menus from $135 (£100). Chef Noah Sandoval's tasting menu physically takes diners through different areas of the restaurant, such as its Oriole Lounge, before they finally settle into their seats in the dining room. Photograph by Garrett Sweet Oriole, West Loop At Oriole, a meal is a journey, both physically and literally. The first few courses of chef Noah Sandoval's tasting menu take diners through different areas of the restaurant before they finally settle into their seats in the dining room. And while the menu itself is always changing, Sandoval's commitment to fine ingredients like wagyu and caviar and his willingness to play with flavours and textures remains constant. If you want to settle in after all the excitement, stay overnight in The Loft, a furnished apartment above the restaurant. Tasting menus from $350 (£260). Smyth, West Loop Married chefs John Shields and Karen Urie Shields apprenticed at Charlie Trotter's and Alinea and honed their skills in Smyth County, Virginia, before opening Smyth, which recently became Chicago's second restaurant (after Alinea) to earn three Michelin stars. The couple combine high-quality ingredients with impeccable technique to create an ever-changing menu of exquisitely composed dishes that look like they came straight from nature. Try the likes of enoki mushroom croustade, Vermont quail with malted milk bread and rainbow trout with barbecued papaya. Tasting menu from $420 (£310). Plan a trip to Hermosa to enjoy a dine-in Cambodian lunch or a 12-course Family Meal dinner. Photograph by Lissy Poeut Hermosa, Hermosa The Chicago restaurant that most resembles The Bear is probably Hermosa. It started off as a neighbourhood sandwich shop in this northwest Chicago district, and by day, chef Ethan Eang Lim still serves the likes of Cambodian-spiced fried chicken sandwiches and Italian beef banh mi (filled baguettes) to take away. But with some advance planning, you can enjoy a dine-in Cambodian lunch (Thursday-Saturday) or, even better, a 12-course Family Meal dinner. Booking ahead is essential as the restaurant only has two tables, and dishes vary depending on the season and diner's dietary preferences can be taken into account. But you can expect more of that fried chicken, plus grilled pork salad, a seafood tower and Mama Lim's kwa kgo, a fermented beef sausage, served with green curry. Family dinner costs $325 (£240) based on 10 people dining. To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
Time Out
16-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Time Out
The best restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City
What is it? Despite only being 8 years old, Ănăn feels like an absolute stalwart of Vietnam's fine dining scene, which shows just how far the city has come in such a short time. From this narrow townhouse in Chợ Cũ wet market, Peter Cường Franklin serves his self-styled 'Cuisine Mới', the culmination of an extraordinary journey from wartime evacuation to Yale to Alinea to Vietnam's first Michelin star. The name itself implores you to indulge, to 'eat, eat', and with food this objectively delicious, it's impossible not to. Why we love it: When Franklin accepted his Michelin star in 2023, he dedicated it to his mother: "Mom, this is for you!" That emotional resonance infuses every dish with profound meaning beyond mere technique (a technique that is, admittedly, impeccable). The appearance of 'mother's spring rolls' on the menu wraps everything up full circle. The real beauty of the food at Ănăn, however, is that it makes you want to reverse-engineer your own experience of Saigon, lending new curiosity to the traditional versions back on the street. You emerge revitalised, with a new perspective on the city and its food. Time Out tip A secret $100 bánh mì and off-menu $100 phở both require advance ordering.
