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The National
4 days ago
- Entertainment
- The National
Ancient Rome meets la vita bella: Dolce & Gabbana brings history to life at extravagant Alta Moda show
As the sun set on Tuesday night, Rome's forum – built in the 7th-century BC – Foro Romano – came alive once again. Serving as the civic heart of Ancient Rome, the site of law courts and public meetings became the stage for Dolce & Gabbana 's Alta Moda show – transforming Via Sacra into a bustling, theatrical thoroughfare. Presented as a love letter to the Eternal City, the show turned the ruins into a living tableau. Toga-clad senators, gladiators, dancers and poets wandered through the crowd, mingling with guests. This was one event in the five-day extravaganza that is Alta Moda, where it is often difficult to tell models from clients – a testament to the immersive, over-the-top world Dolce & Gabbana conjures with its couture events. Clients of Alta Moda are more than customers; they are collectors. Willing to spend undisclosed sums on one-of-a-kind, handcrafted creations, they arrive at these shows wearing gowns and suits from past seasons – many with yards of trailing silk, hand-painted trains, glittering headdresses and armfuls of feathers. Nothing is off limits, and everything is worn with the joy and theatricality it was designed for. Like all Alta Moda shows, this was a tribute to Italian heritage and craftsmanship. The event was a year in the making, with research unearthing details such as Roman soldiers commissioning personalised armour – inspiring a series of looks built around ornately decorated breastplates, crafted from gilded brass and worn over draped chiffon or vast feathered skirts. Rome's architecture provided rich inspiration. The city's Spanish Steps were depicted in delicate applique on a swing coat dress; the Colosseum, visible in the distance, appeared in gold stitching across a coat and on a domed skirt; and the Trevi Fountain splashed across a sequinned coat. The Pantheon was referenced, as was the mythic statue of the she-wolf suckling Romulus and Remus, which adorned the opening look. The priestesses of the Temple of Vesta, guardians of the Eternal Flame, inspired four pure white gowns that turned the female form into a living sculpture. Created using innovative techniques, the fabric was moulded into three-dimensional drapery. Elsewhere, the house's signature glamour was ever-present. The sensual lace dresses that defined early Dolce & Gabbana were reimagined as translucent evening wear, covered in silvered flowers or smothered in mosaics of gold and silver beading. Hollywood of the 1950s and 1960s loomed large. Rome, during its cinematic golden age, drew stars such as Audrey Hepburn, Elizabeth Taylor, Frank Sinatra and Ava Gardner. It was the setting for Roman Holiday, Cleopatra, Ben-Hur and La Dolce Vita – and the show tapped into this era with coiled pleats on a strapless dark red midi dress and retro silhouettes reworked with contemporary embellishment. Like a bridge between centuries, Romanesque beading adorned corsets, hobble dresses and a founded cape, stiff with decoration. The collection moved fluidly between eras – from the marble temples of antiquity to the glamour of Cinecitta – without losing its sense of cohesion. At a preview, the designers spoke about the brand's deep Italian pride: 'We honour our country by choosing to produce all of our products here in Italy, and we honour the 6,000 employees across Italy. They are the true soul of Dolce & Gabbana.' This devotion was perhaps most visible in the accompanying Alta Gioielleria (high jewellery) collection, also inspired by Rome. The pieces – necklaces, rings, cuffs, earrings and watches – were handcrafted using gold, coral, precious tourmalines and ancient Roman coins so rare they required government permission to be used. Miniature Roman statues were recreated in marble powder, fragments of sculpture became brooches and earrings, studded with gems. One transformable necklace was adorned with slices of stone, intricately laser-carved. Guests including Isabella Rossellini, Cher, Christian Bale and Norwegian Manchester City footballer Erling Haaland watched as this pageant of decadence unfolded. It was a show designed not just for fashion, but also for history, art and theatricality – a total celebration of Rome, past and present. Etched into one of the bejewelled necklaces on show was the Latin phrase 'veni, vidi, vici'. And that's exactly what Dolce & Gabbana did. They came, they saw, they conquered.
Geek Culture
20-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Geek Culture
Building Worlds & Breaking Boundaries With The Architects Of 'Anno 117: Pax Romana'
One way to move forward is to go back to before where it all started, and that's what Ubisoft Mainz is doing as it redefines historical strategy gaming with Anno 117: Pax Romana , an ambitious city-building game that promises to transport players into the heart of Rome's most fascinating era. The eighth game of the long-running real-time strategy, economic simulation video game franchise, which made its debut in 1998, is set to take place in an era long before the events of the other games in the series, and while each game is a standalone exploration of diplomacy, trade and resource management with other civilizations, as well as battles over land and sea, Pax Romana will continue the series' complex gameplay that has won over a legion of fans. But far from a traditional strategy title, this game offers players an exploration of empire-building during a time of relative peace and expansion. Creative Director, Manuel Reinher. When Manuel Reinher, Creative Director at Ubisoft Mainz, speaks about Ancient Rome and about developing the upcoming sequel during that era, his passion is palpable. 'The Roman Empire has an everlasting appeal,' he says to select media in Rome, Italy, during an exclusive preview of the game in April 'Symbols like the Colosseum aren't just landmarks, they're gateways to entire worlds of stories.' And it's through this philosophy that drives this next chapter, as it's a strategy game that's more than just city-building, offering historical storytelling through gameplay, says Game Director Jan Dungel, who chimes in with a knowing smile,. 'We're not creating a game. We're creating an experience.' But with the last game in the series, Anno 1800 , released in 2019, the team knew they faced a unique challenge, of developing a game that resonated with fans, but how do you make a deeply complex strategy game that's appealing to newcomers without alienating the fanbase? The simple answer is, you don't. Middle: Manuel Reinher (Creative Director), Right: Jan Dungel (Game Director). 'Our goal was never to make the game less deep,' Dungel explains. 'Hardcore Anno players would revolt if we stripped away the complexity they love.' Instead, the team implemented subtle innovations and players can now take their time, build at their own pace, and explore without feeling overwhelmed. 'We've created a world that's welcoming,' Reinher promises, 'but still rich with strategic depth.' With previous titles, the structure was more linear, and players had to accomplish all needs before they could venture further, to another island or province to build another city, and then proceed to do more from that point. This didn't allow for much freedom, and understandably, players started to drop out at this point because it had gotten a little too repetitive. The current team specifically wanted to address this issue with Anno 117, so that the more casual players can take their time to build their city, and won't be forced to go to another island and build another city. 'So this was the strategy that we chose to actually still allow those who wanted to go big with everything and enjoy a deep, complex game, but also allow the more easygoing players to actually do what they want and not force them to follow a fixed path like how some players who want to accomplish everything', explained Dungel. Reinher also explained how the team invested a lot into player onboarding, transforming what was once a complex and intimidating experience into a more welcoming journey. 'We have now a lot more onboarding tools than ever before,' Reinher explains, highlighting the game's new approach to guiding new players. Specifically, the team introduced permanent help features, with a small question mark symbol appearing next to UI elements that players can click to get more information at any time. Additionally, they've integrated an in-game advisor who serves as a narrative guide and system explainer. 'He will also tell you more about the systems in the background to understand it,' Reinher notes. Unlike previous iterations where new players might have felt overwhelmed, these tools are designed to provide context and clarity without disrupting the core complexity that veteran Anno fans love. The goal, as Reinher sees it, is to make the game more accessible while maintaining its strategic depth, ensuring that both casual players and hardcore strategy enthusiasts can find enjoyment in Anno 117: Pax Romana . And what players might see as simplifying the game actually has some level of historical accuracy, explains Dungel, who shares how the modular ship customisation feature is rooted in authenticity. 'In ancient times, they didn't have different ship designs like clippers or frigates,' he explains. 'They built one light hull and then added components to it.' This historical insight directly inspired the game's innovative ship-building mechanic. 'We wanted to create ships the way they actually built them,' Dungel says, highlighting how players can now customise vessels by adding different modules. Want a faster ship? Add more rowers, or have two masts. Preparing for combat? Attach additional armaments such as archer towers. This new system offers unprecedented flexibility, while remaining true to historical practices. 'It creates a lot of nice possibilities,' Dungel notes, emphasizing that the feature caters to different player types. For micromanagement enthusiasts, it offers deep customisation, while casual players can simply select pre-designed blueprints. 'As a casual player, you just need to click a button, and you'll have a perfectly fine ship,' he adds, underlining the team's commitment to making the feature both complex and accessible. Thus providing depth without overwhelming players. On land though, Reinher is equally excited about giving players the ability to build diagonal roads as 'it completely transforms how players can build,' he says. 'It's about giving players more creative freedom while respecting the game's core grid system.' Dungel's enthusiasm for the military feature in Anno 117 stems from a strategic understanding of modern strategy game design. 'We know that city builders and strategy games tend to have this part of potential warfare,' he explains, highlighting the feature's importance in creating a more immersive gameplay experience. For Dungel, the military component is more than just a combat mechanic, it's a way to deepen the game's world and expand its appeal. 'We wanted to have the military part from day one in the game,' he says, emphasising the feature's integral role in the game's design. The ability to build armies, potentially lose them, or even overtake other territories adds a layer of complexity and excitement. 'It creates possibilities and deepens how the world can be immersive,' Dungel notes, pointing out that this approach not only enriches the gameplay but also attracts new audiences who enjoy multi-dimensional strategy games. By incorporating military elements that feel organic to the historical setting, the team has created a feature that promises to engage players beyond traditional city-building mechanics. And what about the long-standing traditional of having the numbers in the franchise's game titles always adding up to nine? If there's a reason behind it, the team isn't sharing. 'Maybe it's superstition,' Dungel laughs. 'We like it, our fans like it, maybe there's a deeper meaning behind it. You'd have to join the team to find out', Reinher adds, with a grin on his face. Clearly, Anno 117: Pax Romana isn't just about building cities. It's about creating worlds, telling stories, and inviting players to become architects of their own historical narratives. 'We're not just making a game,' Reinher says, his eyes sparkling with enthusiasm. 'We're creating a universe.' Anno 117: Pax Romana releases this winter on PC, PlayStation 5 and Xbox Series X|S. Yonk is a geek who is fortunate enough to have an equally geeky Star Wars fan for a wife, who owns a LEGO Millennium Falcon encased in a glass coffee table as their home's centre-piece. Anno 117 Anno 117: Pax Romana interview Ubisoft
