Latest news with #AnjaliMahto
The Guardian
11-07-2025
- Health
- The Guardian
How TikTok's ‘#morningshed' went viral
The women in the videos begin by liberally applying layers of skincare products. Then come the sheet masks: two under the eyes, one across the whole face, and perhaps another for the neck. A silk bonnet is placed over the hair, a chinstrap wraps the jaw and, as a final touch, a cartoonish, lip-shaped sticker is placed over the mouth, sealing it shut. And that's the simplified version. The Guardian's journalism is independent. We will earn a commission if you buy something through an affiliate link. Learn more. Welcome to the tyranny of #morningshed, the viral TikTok trend in which creators apply multiple, increasingly absurd layers of skincare products, masks and accessories before bed, hoping to uncover a flawless complexion when they peel them away the following morning. We aren't talking about the (comparatively simple) serums and essences that made up the once-popular 12-step Korean-inspired routines. Now, it's chinstraps to 'lift' the jawline, hydrogel masks infused with 'ultra-low molecular collagen' to smooth, and adhesive tape applied to the skin to restrict wrinkling. I was going to liken it to Patrick Bateman's morning routine in American Psycho, but having rewatched that scene, his gel cleanser, exfoliating scrub and face mask ritual feels decidedly lower maintenance. According to Dr Anjali Mahto, consultant dermatologist and founder of the Self London clinic, the morning shedding trend is based more on performative productivity than it is skincare science. 'There is growing pressure to curate every aspect of modern life – to present not just a polished appearance, but a polished process,' she says. 'Skincare has not been spared, and these increasingly complex night-time rituals often go beyond what the skin physiologically requires, and instead reflect a broader cultural compulsion toward perfection.' There's something pretty dystopian about the image of these young women rising mummy-like from their beds – where presumably they have to sleep on their backs to ensure their masks, straps and gadgets stay in place – to begin the laborious process of 'shedding' each morning. And the more formidable the routine, the more views the video gets. As TikTok creator Ashley West declared to her 1 million followers: 'The uglier you go to bed, the hotter you wake up' – a depressingly popular 'affirmation' for the trend. And that's before we even get on to the popularity of mouth tape, which involves sealing your mouth shut to promote nose breathing instead – apparently resulting in better sleep and less snoring. Nose breathing can offer benefits, according to Harvard Health Publishing, but the organisation warns against using mouth tape to achieve it, citing 'hampered breathing' and 'significantly reduced' oxygen levels as potential risks. The symbolism is almost too on the nose. It feels as though, in many ways, we're still as beholden to the idea of having to suffer for beauty as we ever were. Not only that, but is all of this effort actually achieving anything? Take face taping, a practice that uses kinesiology tape to restrict muscle movement and prevent lines forming in key areas such as between the eyebrows – referred to as 11 lines – the outer corners of the eyes, and between the nose and mouth. In theory, it sounds faintly plausible, but Mahto explains that the mechanisms of ageing are far more complex. 'Wrinkles are not just about movement, they involve collagen loss, changes in fat distribution … Taping cannot reverse or prevent those processes.' What it can do is irritate the skin, she says, especially with repeated application. 'At best, it offers a fleeting sense of control. At worst, it disrupts the barrier and causes unnecessary inflammation.' Dermatologists are similarly dismissive of single-use collagen gel masks, which appear opaque white on application but are transparent by morning, when the ingredients are said to have absorbed into the skin. 'Not only is there an environmental impact, but there's also no solid evidence that applying collagen topically replenishes the body's own collagen stores,' says consultant dermatologist Dr Cristina Psomadakis, who is the medical director of prescription skincare brand Klira. And don't get her started on the cocktail of different serums influencers layer on underneath the masks – retinoids, acids and other powerful actives applied with an alarmingly liberal hand. 'I think most dermatologists will tell you the biggest problem they see is people overdoing it by following skin trends, or layering on products that should not be combined.' In many ways, it's human nature to be drawn to products and rituals presented as offering an instant transformative effect. The skincare industry isn't booming for nothing. But as always, it's the slightly boring but ultimately reassuring less-is-more approach that actually works. 'The best thing you can do at night is wash off the remains of the day, including your face sunscreen, or makeup that can clog your pores,' says Psomadakis. 'Most dermatologists have a very simple skincare routine consisting of a cleanser, moisturiser, sunscreen, and usually a prescription treatment at night.' The idea of having separate products for day and night is not all marketing spin, according to Mahto. 'At night, the skin becomes more permeable, meaning it absorbs active ingredients more efficiently. Blood flow increases, repair processes accelerate, and water loss peaks,' she says. 'So yes, there is some genuine science behind using particular products in the evening. Anything that increases skin sensitivity, like retinoids or exfoliating acids, is usually better applied at night, when the skin is not being exposed to UV or environmental pollutants.' Sign up to Fashion Statement Style, with substance: what's really trending this week, a roundup of the best fashion journalism and your wardrobe dilemmas solved after newsletter promotion At the end of the day though, all of this is optional. And, ironically, one of the best things you can do for your skin is to stop scrolling TikTok into the early hours and get plenty of sleep (ideally unencumbered by chinstraps and mouth tape). Since we live in an era in which young girls are waking at 4.30am to begin their extensive skincare routines, and poor self-esteem issues in tweens are being linked to the use of social media beauty filters, don't we owe it to ourselves to exercise a bit of restraint on the beauty front? To read the complete version of this newsletter – complete with this week's trending topics in The Measure and your wardrobe dilemmas solved – subscribe to receive Fashion Statement in your inbox every Thursday.
Vogue Arabia
06-07-2025
- Health
- Vogue Arabia
Is Hair & Scalp SPF Actually a Thing?
Time and again, we're reminded that sunscreen is sacrosanct. It's the Holy Grail of skincare. The be-all and end-all of your routine. But does the rule apply to your hair and scalp, too? The internet seems to think so, and considering your scalp is an extension of your skin, the experts agree, too. 'The scalp is skin — and just like the rest of your body, it is vulnerable to sun damage,' says Michael Ryan, clinical trichologist, Dubai Hair Doctor. 'Many people forget this area because it's often covered with hair. But the part lines, thinning areas, receding hairlines, and even fully exposed scalps for bald individuals, can get sunburnt, leading to discomfort.' The hair affair While your hair acts like a barrier for most of it, your scalp is still susceptible to UV ray exposure and eventual damage. According to Ryan, it's a high risk for sunbuns due to direct sun exposure, especially at the crown and part line. 'Skin cancers often appear on the scalp because it's constantly exposed and often unprotected.' To top it off, just like heat, UV rays can degrade your hair proteins, particularly keratin. While hair itself is not living tissue, Dr Anjali Mahto, consultant dermatologist at Self London, believes that it can also suffer from UV exposure, leading to dryness, brittleness, and colour fading. 'Applying sunscreen to the scalp is about offering it the same protection we afford the rest of our skin,' she says. 'Repeated UV exposure can lead to damage, pigmentation changes and, in some cases, precancerous lesions.' It doesn't end there. Neglecting to protect your scalp can eventually lead to several risks, including burns that may result in redness, peeling, tenderness, irritation, and flaking, which almost mimics dandruff. Repeated sun exposure may contribute to accelerated scalp skin ageing, and even follicular inflammation that can potentially impact hair growth over time. It also increases the risk of skin cancers such as basal or squamous cell carcinoma, particularly in those with thinning or bald areas. Is it an absolute necessity? Yes and no! 'It's not about overcomplicating your routine,' says Dr Mahto. 'It's about smart, targeted protection.' For example, if you have thick hair with no visible scalp, the risk is lower, though still present on partings or the hairline. If you wear your hair in partings or hairstyles that expose the scalp or if you have thinning or fine hair, then sun protection becomes essential. This applies to those who are bald or closely shaved, too.
The Independent
04-04-2025
- Health
- The Independent
Best shower filters to protect hair from hard water
About 60 per cent of the UK is classed as having hard water, meaning high amounts of calcium carbonate are found in pipes, showers and other water sources. Alongside limescale in your kettle, reduced water pressure and an increased likelihood of blocked drains, hard water also has an impact on your hair. Dr Anjali Mahto, consultant dermatologist and founder of Self London, explains: 'Hard water contains high levels of dissolved minerals, primarily calcium and magnesium, and these minerals can have a significant impact on both skin and hair health. For hair, hard water can leave a mineral deposit on the strands, making it feel rough, dry, and more prone to breakage. 'Those who colour their hair may notice their colour fades more quickly due to mineral build-up preventing proper pigment absorption. Additionally, hard water can contribute to scalp irritation and dandruff in some individuals.' A growing number of brands have begun focusing on treating hair damage due to hard water by creating dedicated shampoos and treatments, such as Hello Klean, Act+Acre and L'Oréal Professionnel. Dr Mahto recommends opting for clarifying shampoos, which can help break down residue, and following up with a deeply hydrating conditioner or hair mask containing glycerin, hyaluronic acid, or shea butter to help replenish lost moisture. 'Leave-in conditioners and serums formulated with silicones (such as dimethicone) can create a protective barrier to minimise further mineral build-up,' says Dr Mahto. However, some brands have gone one step further and created showerhead filters, specifically designed to combat hard-water damage, improve water pressure and help you use less water. But how effective are they? Keep scrolling for our full review and verdict. How I tested I've spent the past few months putting some of the leading showerhead filter brands to the test. I examined each showerhead filter on how easy it was to install, any immediate differences I noticed in water pressure, the filtration system on offer, the aesthetic factor (let's be honest, no one wants an ugly showerhead on show), price and long-term results. Why you can trust IndyBest reviews Louise Whitbread is a beauty editor and seasoned product tester. She's used to casting a critical eye over brands' claims and thoroughly tests each product included in her reviews to bring you her pick of the ones that really are worth your money. The best showerhead filters for 2025 are:
Telegraph
24-02-2025
- Health
- Telegraph
How you can finally fix your adult acne
Acne as a teenager? You sort of expect it, don't you? But an increasing number of people in adulthood suffer acne, too. According to the British Association of Dermatologists, the acne rates in young adults in the UK are among the highest in the world. I've had more than six months of a continuous, frustrating cycle of acne that seemingly popped up out of nowhere. 'Adult acne has slowly been on the rise for a while now, and I've personally observed a noticeable increase in cases over the past decade, particularly among women in midlife,' the consultant dermatologist Dr Anjali Mahto tells me. Many of the clients in her Harley Street clinic are acne sufferers. She puts the rise down to hormonal fluctuations, which can persist through pregnancy and menopause, or if you have conditions such as polycystic ovary syndrome. Stress and poor sleep can have an impact, too, which certainly resonates with me. Whatever my acne was down to, it felt alarmingly abrupt when my skin began breaking out last summer. There was one spot on my cheek, and then another, and before I knew it I was playing whack-a-mole with painful red blemishes. One spot would shrink but another two would erupt. There was a particular cluster that set up camp on my left cheek for months. I was using spot stickers – which are popular among teenagers – almost every night, as well as the tried-and-tested blemish-busting ingredient salicylic acid. Nothing worked. Of course, there's medication, but I had been there, done that: around 15 years ago I underwent a course of Roaccutane for four months, on a low dose. It's a widely used treatment for acne, but can result in very dry, sore skin. This potent vitamin A derivative reduces oil production, and back then it worked for me, for a while, until my skin decided it was not going to play ball any more. Needless to say, I needed a remedy. I booked in to see Dr Mahto, who is also a leading acne specialist. Now in her mid-40s, Dr Mahto herself has suffered from acne since she was a young teenager. She suggested a new laser treatment, which became available in the UK last year, designed specifically to reduce the activity of the oil glands on the face. It addresses the root cause of acne and can last years. 'It is ideal for patients who experience oily skin, recurrent breakouts or persistent acne and want an effective, safe treatment with minimal downtime and lasting results,' she says of the AviClear laser treatment, currently the only laser acne treatment of its kind. 'It's been game-changing and having had it done myself, I only wish it had been available sooner.' It takes two to three months to have the full course of treatments – three sessions three to four weeks apart. I was warned my skin could break out during this period and it indeed did (but the spots cleared far quicker than usual and were certainly not as sore). Pleasingly, although unusual for a laser, the treatment works for all skin types and tones. But a treatment zapping your skin many, many times over isn't exactly comfortable. I found the bony parts of the face – the forehead and chin, for instance – were the most uncomfortable. But it's over quickly (around 40 minutes in total per session). As for the results, I'm now four weeks after my last treatment and my skin is remarkably clear. It's less greasy, too – if oily skin is your issue, this treatment deserves some consideration. My skin has better clarity and, according to Dr Mahto, the results continue to improve long after the treatment course has finished. Now to the price. It's £4,500 for the complete course at Self London (Dr Mahto's dermatology clinic in London) and also available at selected clinics around the UK. It's a huge investment, but if acne and consistently problematic skin is your issue, and you are looking for a long-term remedy, this is one of the most remarkable treatments around.
