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CairoScene
4 days ago
- Entertainment
- CairoScene
The Runway Moments That Shaped Arab Fashion's Global Rise
From the shimmering silks of Elie Saab to Zuhair Murad's dazzling beadwork, here are some of the most defining runway moments by Arab designers. In July 2025, Rami Al Ali became the first Syrian designer to officially present a collection at Paris Haute Couture Week. His show, Guardian of Light, featured long pleated dresses in pastel tones, finished with embroidery and embellishments that reflected both personal vision and national narrative. It was a debut shaped by precision, not theatrics — and a first that placed Syria on the official haute couture calendar. Earlier, in 2024, Elie Saab staged 1001 Seasons of Elie Saab in Riyadh, marking his 45th anniversary with over 300 looks styled by Carine Roitfeld. The show included live performances and a moment of fashion déjà vu: Halle Berry in the same Saab gown she wore to the 2002 Oscars. Gulf-based Ashi Studio, meanwhile, joined the official Paris Haute Couture calendar in 2023 — the first label from the region to do so. These runway moments span nearly two decades, each distinct in context and form. From Tony Ward's steel masks to Kaf by Kaf's robot model and Okhtein's alabaster-inspired bustier for Balmain, they register a varied timeline of appearances across global stages. What connects them is not a single aesthetic or movement, but their role in shaping how and where Arab designers are seen. Rami Al Ali | Paris Haute Couture Week, 2025 Syrian designer Rami Al Ali became the first from his country to officially present at Paris Haute Couture Week with his Fall/Winter 2025–2026 collection, Guardian of Light. The show blended delicate pleats, soft pastels, and intricate embroidery, drawing from themes of cultural continuity and cautious optimism. His debut reflected both technical mastery and a personal lens on Syria's evolving identity. Tony Ward | Paris Haute Couture Week, 2025 Tony Ward's Fall/Winter 2025–2026 show was anchored in concept: steel masks, masquerade references, and hours of embroidery that challenged conventional show formats. With pieces requiring up to 700 hours of handwork, the show emphasized the atelier's technical capacity while playing with theatrical form. Kaf by Kaf | Riyadh Fashion Week, 2025 The Saudi label's Spring/Summer 2025 collection included a first-of-its-kind robot model on the runway. Conceptual and experimental, the collection questioned aesthetics and beauty standards in the context of evolving technology—blurring fashion and futurism. Elie Saab | '1001 Seasons of Elie Saab,' Riyadh, 2024 Held in a purpose-built venue in Riyadh, this anniversary show marked 45 years of Elie Saab's design career. Over 300 looks styled by Carine Roitfeld celebrated the designer's enduring impact. The event also revisited a defining pop culture moment: Halle Berry wore a recreation of the gown she debuted at the 2002 Oscars, the first time Saab's work appeared on that stage. Ashi Studio | Paris Haute Couture Week, 2023 With a background in architecture, Ashi Studio became the first Gulf-based label to present at Paris Haute Couture Week. The brand's sculptural approach offered a new aesthetic language within the couture space—rooted in the Gulf, but speaking to broader conversations about form and fashion. Okhtein x Balmain | Paris Fashion Week, 2022 While Okhtein hasn't yet staged a solo runway presentation, its collaboration with Balmain for SS23 marked a notable moment. The Egyptian brand's alabaster-inspired bustier, part of Olivier Rousteing's collection, offered a rare instance of Egyptian craft entering the high-fashion circuit through a global platform. Rami Kadi | Paris Haute Couture Week, 2019 Inspired by post-war Beirut, Kadi's Mosaic of Dreams reinterpreted themes of destruction and regrowth. The use of laser-cut fabrics and iridescent embroidery demonstrated a commitment to innovation, making it one of his most technically ambitious collections. Georges Hobeika | Paris Fashion Week, 2018 A collection inspired by ancient Greece, Hobeika's work featured soft metallics, classical drapery, and mythological references. His steady presence in Paris continued a legacy of Lebanese designers participating in global fashion weeks with an emphasis on storytelling through form. Temraza | London Fashion Week, 2013 Egyptian designer Farida Temraz's showing in London offered early international visibility for Egyptian couture. Her presence—and subsequent win at Paris Fashion Week in 2014—was among the first for Egyptian fashion on these platforms, helping establish pathways for designers from the region. Abed Mahfouz | Rome Haute Couture Week, 2012 This collection, featuring iridescent pastels and classic silhouettes, reinforced Mahfouz's place in the landscape of Lebanese couture. By participating consistently in European shows, he helped anchor Middle Eastern couture within the broader dialogue of international fashion. Rami Kashou | Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, 2008 As a finalist on Project Runway Season 4, Palestinian-American designer Rami Kashou brought his work to New York Fashion Week. His collection, presented during the show's finale, introduced mainstream audiences to Arab design, expanding visibility in American fashion media.
Kuwait Times
13-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Kuwait Times
Rami Al Ali becomes first Syrian in Paris fashion program
Syrian couturier Rami Al Ali made history Thursday as the first fashion designer from his country to feature in the official Paris Haute Couture Week calendar in a new landmark for Arab representation in the luxury business. After years of showing his tailored evening dresses on the sidelines of Couture Week, he was invited this year by France's Federation de la Haute Couture et de la Mode to join the program. He sent out models in long pleated dresses in pastel colors, making elaborate use of silk, rolled crepe fabric, embroidery and beading in a collection that reflected his optimism about the future of his war-ravaged country. 'We called the collection the 'Guardian of Light', and it came at a time that is very hopeful, very promising,' the 53-year-old told AFP beforehand. The fall of former Syrian president Bashar Al-Assad in December led to the rise of rebel-turned-transitional leader Ahmed Al-Sharaa, which has brought a fragile end to nearly 14 years of civil war. Al Ali, who grew up in the eastern Syrian city of Deir ez-Zor before moving to Dubai, where he founded his brand more than 20 years ago, was holding back tears as he spoke to reporters afterwards. He told AFP he had been feeling 'nervous, excited, tired, happy' about his breakthrough moment, which follows years of dressing A-listers and royalty including Beyonce and Oscar winner Helen Mirren. Rami Al Ali Rami Al Ali Rami Al Ali Rami Al Ali Rami Al Ali Rami Al Ali Rami Al Ali Rami Al Ali Models present creations for Rami Al Ali during the Women's Haute-Couture Fall/Winter 2025-26 collection show in Paris. 'Bolder, braver' After decades of Syria being a byword for violence and political oppression, Al Ali hopes that artists will now help highlight the country's rich history and design culture. 'I think now we have much more freedom in expressing ourselves in all different aspects, political, humanitarian, creative. We have a lot to say, and definitely we are bolder, braver in the way we express it,' he said. Haute Couture Week is separate from the ready-to-wear Paris Fashion Week and is dedicated to handcrafted, one-of-a-kind creations made for red carpet events, galas, and other high-profile social occasions. The program this week included two designers from Lebanon -- Elie Saab and Zuhair Murad - as well as Cameroon's Imane Ayissi, the sole sub-Saharan African label included in the calendar. Saudi Arabian designer Mohammed Ashi's brand Ashi Studio was also in the program. Ayissi, who joined the Couture calendar in 2020 at the same time as much-hyped Indian designer Rahul Mishra, paid tribute to the increasing diversity on the Paris fashion circuit. 'It shows that things are changing, that things are moving forward,' former model Ayissi told AFP this week after his show, which made elaborate use of traditional African textiles.--AFP
Gulf Today
12-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Gulf Today
Syrian couturier Rami Al Ali makes history at Paris Couture Week
Syrian couturier Rami Al Ali made history on Thursday as the first fashion designer from his country to feature in the official Paris Haute Couture Week calendar in a new landmark for Arab representation in the luxury business. After years of showing his tailored evening dresses on the sidelines of Couture Week, he was invited this year by France's Federation de la Haute Couture et de la Mode to join the programme. He sent out models in long pleated dresses in pastel colours, making elaborate use of silk, rolled crepe fabric, embroidery and beading in a collection that reflected his optimism about the future of his war-ravaged country. 'We called the collection the 'Guardian of Light', and it came at a time that is very hopeful, very promising,' the 53-year-old said beforehand. Al Ali, who grew up in the eastern Syrian city of Deir ez-Zor before moving to Dubai, where he founded his brand more than 20 years ago, was holding back tears as he spoke to reporters afterwards. He said he had been feeling 'nervous, excited, tired, happy' about his breakthrough moment, which follows years of dressing A-listers and royalty including Beyonce and Oscar winner Helen Mirren. Haute Couture Week is separate from the ready-to-wear Paris Fashion Week and is dedicated to handcrafted, one-of-a-kind creations made for red carpet events, galas, and other high-profile social occasions. The programme this week included two designers from Lebanon — Elie Saab and Zuhair Murad — as well as Cameroon's Imane Ayissi, the sole sub-Saharan African label included in the calendar. Saudi Arabian designer Mohammed Ashi's brand Ashi Studio was also in the programme. Ayissi, who joined the Couture calendar in 2020 at the same time as much-hyped Indian designer Rahul Mishra, paid tribute to the increasing diversity on the Paris fashion circuit. 'It shows that things are changing, that things are moving forward,' former model Ayissi said this week after his show, which made elaborate use of traditional African textiles. After studying in Damascus, Al Ali left for Dubai as a young man in search of opportunities in the fashion industry, working initially for two regional brands. He branched out on his own in 2001, building a regional fanbase for his eponymous brand from the United Arab Emirates before creating a following in Europe, including via shows in Paris outside the official Fashion Week calendar from 2012. The invitation this year from France's prestigious Federation de la Haute Couture et de la Mode places him in a new elite category that is increasingly diverse. 'I built from my heritage, from my background, from where I was based, also in the Middle East, in Dubai, all of those combined together created the form and the DNA of the brand,' he explained. Given an appreciation of tradition from his historian mother, Al Ali draws on the design aesthetics of Damascus, Aleppo and Palmyra in particular. Agence France-Presse
Arab Times
12-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Arab Times
From Syria to Paris: Rami Al Ali's breakthrough at Paris Haute Couture Week
PARIS, July 12: Syrian couturier Rami Al Ali made history on Thursday as the first designer from his country to be featured in the official Paris Haute Couture Week calendar — a major milestone for Arab representation in the global luxury fashion industry. After years of presenting his intricately tailored evening gowns on the fringes of Couture Week, Al Ali was formally invited by France's Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode to join this year's official programme. His runway show featured models in flowing, pleated gowns in soft pastel tones, incorporating silk, rolled crepe fabric, detailed embroidery, and beading. The collection, titled Guardian of Light, symbolized Al Ali's optimism for the future of his homeland. 'This collection comes at a very hopeful, very promising time,' the 53-year-old told AFP prior to the show. The shift in Syria's political landscape — following the fall of former president Bashar al-Assad in December and the rise of transitional leader Ahmed al-Sharaa — has brought a fragile end to nearly 14 years of civil conflict. Al Ali, originally from Deir ez-Zor in eastern Syria and now based in Dubai, where he established his fashion label over two decades ago, appeared visibly emotional as he spoke to the press after the show. Holding back tears, he described his feelings as a mix of 'nervous, excited, tired, happy' in what marked a defining moment in his career. He has previously dressed global celebrities such as Beyoncé and Oscar-winner Helen Mirren. After years of Syria being associated with war and political repression, Al Ali hopes this new chapter will allow Syrian creatives to spotlight the country's rich cultural and artistic heritage. 'We now have more freedom to express ourselves in different ways — politically, humanely, and creatively. We have a lot to say, and we are definitely bolder, braver in how we say it,' he said. Paris Haute Couture Week is distinct from Paris Fashion Week, as it is dedicated to exclusive, hand-crafted garments often designed for red carpet events, galas, and other prestigious occasions. This season's official schedule also included designers from Lebanon — Elie Saab and Zuhair Murad — as well as Cameroonian designer Imane Ayissi, the only sub-Saharan African label featured. Saudi Arabian designer Mohammed Ashi's label, Ashi Studio, was also part of the lineup. Ayissi, who debuted on the Haute Couture calendar in 2020 alongside Indian designer Rahul Mishra, welcomed the growing diversity within the Paris fashion scene. 'It shows that things are changing, that things are moving forward,' Ayissi told AFP following his show, which celebrated African culture through the use of traditional textiles.
The South African
10-07-2025
- Entertainment
- The South African
Cardi B crowned queen of haute couture at Paris Fashion Week
Cardi B has taken Paris Haute Couture Week by storm, cementing her status as the new queen of couture. The bold, proud rapper captivated the fashion world with a series of unforgettable looks that blended high drama, storytelling, and fearless style. Her presence at the event was a powerful declaration that Haute Couture now has a fresh, vibrant face. On the first day, Cardi stunned at the Schiaparelli Fall/Winter 2025/2026 show. She wore a sleek black column gown adorned with ivory fringe beads. But the real showstopper was the live black crow perched calmly on her gloved hand. This striking image was a direct nod to her upcoming album, Am I the Drama? The symbolism was clear and bold, merging music and fashion in a way that left social media buzzing. 'I wanted to bring my music to the runway,' Cardi explained, according Hola. Later that day, Cardi B transformed into a living rose at Rahul Mishra's Becoming Love presentation. Her ruby-red corseted gown, covered in 3D spiralled roses and sparkling rhinestones, was a poetic vision of floral fantasy. This look was pure high-fashion art, and Cardi wore it with unmatched confidence. On 8 July, she switched gears at the Stéphane Rolland show. The black-and-white cape gown featured sculptural structure and a dramatic hood, exuding elegance and mystery. 'This look shows that sometimes less is more,' Cardi said. 'You don't always need sparkle to shine.' Later, she embraced ethereal romance in a sheer ivory tulle gown from Ashi Studio. The soft layers and dreamy silhouette revealed a softer, more strategic side to her couture game. Cardi closed the marathon on 9 July at Balenciaga, dazzling in a black beaded sheer gown with a thigh-high slit and voluminous curls. The gown caught every flash of the camera, and her flawless beauty look sealed her status as a maximalist glamour icon. What makes Cardi's Paris takeover so remarkable is her genius in visual storytelling. Her fashion choices are not random; they are deeply connected to her music and personal brand. The crow symbol, the roses, the dramatic capes, all speak to her narrative and power. She has redefined what it means to be a celebrity in fashion, turning couture into a dynamic canvas for her story. In a world where fashion often feels distant and unattainable, Cardi B brings it back to life with energy and meaning. Haute Couture now has a new queen, and she's here to stay. Let us know by leaving a comment below, or send a WhatsApp to 060 011 021 1. Subscribe to The South African website's newsletters and follow us on WhatsApp, Facebook, X and Bluesky for the latest news.
