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Indian Express
11 hours ago
- Entertainment
- Indian Express
A taste of Calcutta in London: The story behind Asma Khan's restaurant Darjeeling Express
The jam-packed streets of Soho in Westminster, London, reflect the city's vibrant diaspora and multiculturalism. From Chinese to Thai and Italian, the area offers a global gastronomic tour in just a few blocks. Among these flavours, tucked on the top floor of Kingly Court, is Darjeeling Express, a restaurant known for its Mughlai and Bengali cuisine Established in 2017, it is run by a team of all-women chefs and has a menu that remains proudly consistent. 'There are some restaurants that can change the menu and get away with it. We get people crying and screaming at us. We're quite trapped because we can't really change things,' says Asma Khan in an interview with Asma, an India-born British restaurateur, began her journey by hosting intimate 'supper clubs' at her home. Today, her restaurant, Darjeeling Express, stands tall among London's Michelin-starred dining spots. So how did a home cook open one of London's most popular Indian restaurants? Asma comes from a family with royal lineage. Her father, Farrukh Said Khan, was a Muslim Rajput, while her mother, Faizana Khan, was of mixed Bengali and Bihari heritage. 'My nana (maternal grandfather) was my father's landlord when he was posted to Calcutta working for General Electric Company (GEC),' says Asma, adding, 'he was quite a regal-looking man with his huge moustache, and my nana was impressed.' She explains that while the matrimonial alliance was formed, little was discussed about the practicalities of the marriage itself. 'My mother had never eaten roti in her life. She loved fish and rice. My father, interestingly, sees fish and gets scared. And he doesn't eat rice. There were also language and other differences. But they got married.' Asma was born in the family's Elliot Road home in 1969. 'I remember waking up with the sound of the trams,' she says. 'I must have been two and a half years old when a crow took my food while I was eating on the verandah; that's my first memory of food.' The family then moved to Hyderabad due to Farrukh Said Khan's transfer. 'My brother was born there. Then we went to Madras (present-day Chennai).' The Khans lived opposite former chief minister Jayalalithaa's house. 'At that time, she used to call us her Bengali neighbours. And we used to climb on the wall, and she used to give us sweets.' Asma reiterates that they always identified with Calcutta and being Bengali. 'Even though I am technically only a quarter Bengali.' Asma says that her maternal grandfather and two of his brothers married women from Bihar. Her grandmothers, with their entourage of cooks, ayahs, and drivers, all spoke in Hindi or Urdu. 'So sadly, the Bengali language kind of slipped off. But from a very young age, I identified strongly with Calcutta. This was home for me.' 1974 brought some good news for the Khans as Farrukh Said Khan was transferred to Calcutta. 'I remember my father's tears when he came in and said he had been transferred. Everyone was silent. I remember that emotion.' The family was both excited and relieved to return to Calcutta, she describes. 'A sense of homecoming…We were going home! And that is a feeling that I relate to even now.' Initially, Asma's mother thought of taking cooking classes. However, luck, according to Asma, landed her a catering contract at the Tata Centre. 'That was her first catering job… the rest is history.' She soon began catering at some of the city's most popular clubs — Tollygunge Club, Royal Calcutta Turf Club, and Calcutta Cricket and Football Club. Meanwhile, Asma attended La Martiniere School on Rawdon Street and later, Loreto College on Park Street. 'There was a very different sense of equality at that time in the 80s. Calcutta in the 80s and 90s was an incredible space,' says Asma, adding that one felt protected and valued. That feeling of protection wasn't the only thing that Asma loves about Calcutta. Food was central to her growing years. She talks about the 'rolls at Badshah in New Market, the chana bhatura and tutti frutti at Kwality on Park Street, the dosa at Jyoti Bihar, and the Chinese at the Taj Hotel.' That wasn't all. The American chop suey at Bar-B-Q is unmatched, although the queue to get a place is terribly long,' she laughs. For sweets, she names K.C. Das on Chowringhee, and for mishti doi (sweetened yogurt), Khan recalls visiting Mithai on Park Circus. She also explains the colonial influence on her family's food. 'My mother cooked a lot of continental food… She made Chicken à la Kiev, a prawn cocktail inspired from what was served at popular joints such as Sky Room, Mocambo, and Trincas on Park Street.' Having spoken at length and passionately about Calcutta's food, Asma says, 'All the Indian Chinese food in the rest of India is horrible. Calcutta Indian Chinese is really Indian Chinese.' Pausing for a few seconds, she utters excitedly…'And then, this kind of fabulous Dhaba culture – the chicken bharta, which is such a Calcutta thing. It's the adding of eggs to chicken. It's the combination of the Punjabi trucker and the Bengali kind of sentiments.' From a supper club to Darjeeling Express What remains in Calcutta for Asma is a house. 'My parents moved back to Aligarh, and my ancestral home on Elliot Road was demolished.' However, Asma bought a flat in the newly built apartment at the same place. 'I was the last granddaughter to be married from that house. And my mother was born in that house. So that link to that house was so great. In some ways, it's nice that I have a flat on the 11th floor.' Asma and her husband left Calcutta in 1991 for the United Kingdom. Years later, she began a supper club at home. 'I served chicken chop, rezala, kosha mangsho (dry chicken), gughni (chickpeas), luchi, aloo dum, and biryani.' 'People must have a desire to try good food,' she explains as her purpose behind the supper clubs. In 2017, she turned the supper club into a restaurant, retaining the name Darjeeling Express. 'My supper club was called Darjeeling Express after the toy trains in Darjeeling, which I cherished very much. Moreover, I thought my clients should know that it's by the same person. Otherwise, I would not call it this,' she laughs. Everything about the restaurant is designed to reflect Calcutta — walls painted in warm yellow hues, adorned with family portraits of the Khans and their home on Elliot Road, and a menu curated from Khan's favourite picks in the city. Although the eatery offers three varieties: à la carte lunch, pre-theatre menu, and set menu dinner, what remains constant are the tangra prawns, puchkas, niramish (a Bengali term for a vegetarian dish), prawn malaikari, and kosha mangsho. There is a cocktail called Jhal (a Bengali term for spicy) and a mocktail Jhalphoron. For dessert, Asma's restaurant serves the iconic Bhapa Doi, steamed yogurt. The locals and tourists alike flock to eat these dishes, resisting any change. 'That's what Calcutta food does to one,' she says gleefully. From the menu, Asma says, the favourites are kosha mangsho followed by prawn malai curry. 'Ta-da! Both Bengali dishes. These are our top favourites.' The next favourite is Calcutta biryani. When asked to describe it, she says, 'It is mild, fragrant. It does not contain too many spices, and the biggest thing is that the rice is not sticky. It's just separated.' Khan's favourite element of the biryani is the aloo (potato). 'The potato is better than the meat and the rice. All the flavour has gone into it. Best thing in the world. If that's the last meal of my life, I don't want the biryani. I just want the aloo.' 'And no city in the world, and I have travelled the world, for me, compares to Calcutta,' she asserts. 'I wish the government would do more. The state government would do more to promote tourism. I am tired of people coming to my restaurant and saying, Oh, I've been to India, I've been to Kerala, I've gone to see the Taj Mahal. I ask: Why have you not gone to see Calcutta? Our colonial history, our Bengali heritage, the beautiful stories about the synagogue, Nahoum's, you've got the Armenian tradition, you've got this amazing Muslim food as well as Indian Chinese (food). We have everything in the world but not tourists.' Asma expresses her desire to give back to the city that gave her an identity. 'I am willing to do it for free… to encourage people to put Calcutta as a destination. You cannot understand India if you do not understand and have not eaten in a city like Calcutta. It's the food capital of India and of the world.' On her plans for Darjeeling Express, Asma says she wanted to do something in Kolkata. 'In the West, I have achieved a lot. I need to go home. But in which way and how, I don't know. But the calling is very, very strong. The desire to go back is there. I want to go back when I can be of help. I want to go back when I still have the fire and I'm physically strong and I have the creative energy. Because the city has given me everything. I am what I am because of Calcutta. I also want to do something for Calcutta.' 'The Calcutta I grew up in,' Asma says in a low voice, 'has changed…I feel lost now'. Buildings demolished, streets renamed, modes of transportation modernised, and people more aloof. 'Yet,' she notes, sounding positive, 'the food remains the same – the best in the world.'
Express Tribune
2 days ago
- Entertainment
- Express Tribune
Asma Abbas wants her daughter-in-laws to work, not sit at home and waste their degrees
Asma Abbas recently appeared on Good Morning Pakistan, where she and her youngest daughter-in-law, Sameen Ahmed, were featured in the special Mother-in-Law and Daughter-in-Law segment. Sameen and Asma's youngest son, Ahmed got married in January of this year. On the show, they shared a candid and heartwarming conversation about family dynamics, the role of women in her household, and the importance of maintaining a balance between career and family life. Asma's message for her daughters-in-law, particularly Sameen, was both relevant and empowering. She shared her thoughts on the role of women in her family, emphasising that she values their education and believes they should use it to its fullest potential. I encourage my daughters-in-law to work because they've earned their degrees, and those shouldn't go to waste?' she stated. In a society where many women are often expected to pause their careers after marriage, Asma's supportive stance on women pursuing professional goals was refreshing and much needed. During the discussion, Asma was asked about her two other daughters-in-law, to which she revealed, 'Yes, they work as well.' She stressed the importance of maintaining a home while also acknowledging that there's no need for women to be confined to house duties. 'What will they do sitting at home? We have house help.' Sameen, who praised her in-laws for being kind and supportive, fondly recalled her first day in the family, when she had stayed up late, only to wake up to a welcoming and humorous response instead of a scolding. 'I was expecting to be scolded for waking up late, but instead, they were really warm,' Sameen shared. In a lighthearted moment, Asma added that she enjoys when women dress up in the morning for their work. 'I like it when women dress up in the morning and go out for their work,' she said with a smile. When asked about Sameen's habit of sleeping in, Asma responded with a playful tone, 'I don't mind her waking up late. It reminds me of Zara, she also loves her sleep,' she laughed. Internet Reacts Asma's candid statements on Good Morning Pakistan received widespread praise from viewers, who admired her modern and supportive perspective on women's empowerment. Many applauded her belief in the importance of women pursuing careers and their education. However, there were some viewers who felt that Asma should not be concerned with whether her daughter-in-law chooses to work, as this should be a personal decision. One user commended her by saying, 'This type of mindset is rare in Pakistani society!' and another one added, 'Society needs mother-in-laws like you, you're a gem.' On the flip side, some were of the opinion that Asma Abbas's remarks were not as progressive as she thought. 'Oh God, Pakistani women are never going to change. If a woman wants to sit at home, even that is a problem now. Why does a mother-in-law get to say anything at all about whether one works or roams in a night dress? She's missed the whole point while trying to act like she's nailed it.'
The Hindu
4 days ago
- Entertainment
- The Hindu
Good vibrations and Asma Menon's series Sacred Spaces
'I know this sounds bizarre, but I feel Arunachala is not static; it moves. There is a strange vibe about it where I'm concerned,' says Asma Menon. The artist, whose solo show, Sacred Spaces in a Path of Awakening is underway in Bengaluru, talks about this series that took shape over the past two years. The transition from cosmopolitan city dweller to seeker of solace in the countryside, did not happen overnight but has been an adventure of sorts as well as the inspiration for her work. Asma says when she re-located to Tiruvannamalai on a whim, building her home-studio on a parcel of land that was more of an afterthought than an investment, the joy of discovering her surroundings fed her creativity. 'I would hop on my scooter and set off on one of my 'Get Lost' trips coming across small temples, finding out about hero stones (memorial stones) and a megalith dating back to 1,500BCE, and enjoying the beauty of a sunset,' says Asma, adding that these road trips gave her an introduction to many quaint rites and rituals practised in those areas. 'I live in a little forest area where only five houses have been built. It is full of trees, birds, and the occasional snake that decides to come out. It's a magical place.' Small wonder then, that Sacred Spaces is an attempt to capture the ethereal Asma sees in her everyday. Using acrylics for the most part, as well as oil pastels and watercolour pencils, her works depict rural scenes in vivid hues and geometric patterns. There are woods and water lilies, temple grottoes and swathes of sky and earth, but almost always, one can see Arunachala. 'This place is one of the oldest districts of Tamil Nadu endowed with a lot of vibrations and power that gradually seeps into you. Epiphany happens in a town like this and you open yourself to it without question.' She recalls how during one of her trips she came across a pit full of terracotta dogs; no one seems to know how they got there or what purpose they serve. 'When it rains, a few of them get worn out, but there are still around 10 to 12 dogs in that space of 400square feet. Further away there is a place filled with little terracotta cows where people come to offer prayers when their cows are pregnant. It is amazing what one can see here.' Prequel to a dream Before she headed out to 'Tiru' as she affectionately calls her place of residence, Asma was city born and bred, spending her childhood years in Bengaluru. 'I began art classes when I was in the third grade or fourth grade, first with Ram Murthy and then with Balan Nambiar who admitted me into his adult classes,' says Asma, adding that she debuted at one of Balan's shows. After completing her degree in Visual Communications, Asma went on to successfully work at advertising agencies and the production department of a newspaper in Chennai, Mumbai and Hyderabad. Art seemingly faded into the background until she had the chance to illustrate two children's books. 'It was sheer luck that I got the job, and I enjoyed going back to drawing,' she says, adding that as more projects came her way, she decided to quit corporate life and embrace art full time. 'I became involved in printmaking and painting at home. I also started children's art workshops and eventually got back into the circuit,' she says, adding that the runaway success of her first solo show in 1994, convinced her she was on the right track. Today, in her spartan space at Tiruvannamalai, Asma says she is still journeying into sacred territory. 'I find myself awakening to a whole new landscape that affects me. It rumbles in my soul. It took years before I could render anything on paper or canvas, because it took me that long to fathom the enormity of it all. Sometimes when you are at the crossroads and are unsure of what direction to take, you just take the plunge.' Sacred Spaces in a Path of Awakeningby Asma Menon is on display at MKF Museum of Art till July 31, 2025. Entry free, Mondays closed.
Business Recorder
10-07-2025
- Sport
- Business Recorder
PM meets Qatari mountaineer, appoints her as tourism brand ambassador
ISLAMABAD: Pakistan rolled out the red carpet on Thursday for Qatari mountaineer Sheikha Asma Al Thani – the first woman from the Gulf to scale the treacherous Nanga Parbat – as Prime Minister Shehbaz Sharif heaped praise on her for braving one of the world's deadliest peaks. Known as the 'Killer Mountain' for its brutal weather and staggering death toll, Nanga Parbat is not for the faint-hearted – but Asma, a royal and record-breaking adventurer, took it head-on and made history. Sharif hailed her as a 'beacon of courage and determination' during a meeting with her, where he officially named her Pakistan's brand ambassador for mountains and tourism. 'She's not just climbing peaks, she is shattering ceilings,' Sharif said, lauding Asma's guts and grit as a trailblazer for women and girls across the globe. The Gulf royal, who has already tamed nine of the world's 14 towering 8,000-metre monsters, has her eyes set on the rest – and Pakistan is eager to see her back. Nanga Parbat was her latest conquest, but Asma fondly recalled K2 – Pakistan's own crown jewel – calling it the 'Complete Mountain' for its sheer majesty and challenge. Sharif did not miss the chance to pitch Pakistan as an elite playground for adrenaline junkies, reminding the world that five of the planet's highest peaks lie within its borders. 'Pakistan is paradise for mountaineers and Asma has helped shine a spotlight on that,' said Sharif. The prime minister also gave a nod to the unsung heroes of the Himalayas – the local porters and guides who risk it all to help climbers chase glory. Ties between Qatar and Pakistan got a boost too, with Sharif calling Asma's achievement a symbol of 'shared ambition, courage, and perseverance' between the two countries. He even floated ideas for future cooperation in adventure tourism, youth engagement, and sports. Asma, who also serves as Vice President of the Gender Equality Commission back in Qatar, thanked Pakistan for its 'unforgettable hospitality' and the support that helped her reach new heights – quite literally. Copyright Business Recorder, 2025
Gulf Today
04-07-2025
- Gulf Today
Meet UAE's first woman to work as ammunition and explosives technician
First Warrant Officer Asma Obaid Saif Humaidan Al Zaabi is one of the most prominent female role models in the Ministry of Interior (MoI). The first female officer to work as an ammunition and explosives technician, Asma has been able to combine military work, scientific innovation, and athletic excellence, and hence become an example to follow in courage and excellence. 'I chose the military field because of my deep belief that women can contribute greatly to the Ministry of Interior (MoI). My work as an ammunition and explosives technician at the Weapons and Explosives Directorate makes me proud, especially since it requires precise skills and faces unconventional challenges," she said. "I began my journey in police work in 2006 and have continuously developed myself through training in the latest technologies, such as the use of artificial intelligence in detecting explosives. This step has not only enhanced my efficiency, but reduced the risks facing those working in this field as well,' Asma said. Asma's innovations left a clear mark in the security field including a car that detects explosives using X-ray and self-analysis technology, virtual reality glasses that facilitate inspection and detection of explosives, a system to monitor wanted people, which represents a quantum leap in enhancing security, and the design of the smart logo currently being used in MoI's systems. Since joining the MoI, Asma has worked for various departments and this helped her build a broad knowledge base and rich practical experience. At the beginning of her career, she worked in the Planning, Development and Secretariat Department at Ras Al Khaimah Police's Training Institute. She then moved to the Organized Crimes Department, where she dealt with complex cases and tasks that required high concentration. She also worked at ports and airports, in the Inspection and Explosive Disposal Department of the Weapons and Explosives Directorate and in the Weapons and Explosives Licensing Department. This diversity of tasks helped Asma hone her skills and develop a deep understanding of the MoI's work, thereby becoming one of the most influential figures in her field. Asma told the MoI's magazine 999 that she received several prestigious awards including Minister of Interior Award in 2019 as well as a heroic work award for excellence and rescue medal in 2010, scientific research awards for 2012, 2015 and 2017 and the director general's award for implemented proposals in 2020. She was also selected as one of MoI's top 10 female shooters. These awards reflect the extent of dedication and diligence she has put into her work as well as her ability to achieve accomplishments in the most difficult fields. Asmaa, however, is still striving for more. Her ultimate dream is to establish a dedicated innovation centre that serves the security sector and develops the capabilities of its employees. She also aspires to create an all-female explosives team, the first of its kind in the Middle East. 'I seek to transfer my expertise to the next generation and be part of achieving a quantum leap in the field of security on the regional level,' she said.
