Latest news with #Assyrtiko
Irish Examiner
2 days ago
- Irish Examiner
Wine with Leslie: Three bottles you won't find in a supermarket
Yes, I spoil the cat. Lucy is 12 now, and we are best buddies; she is asleep beside me as I write this. The Engineer does not understand why we need five brands of cat food in the house, but I do: Lucy is like me, she gets bored easily and her palate needs constant stimulation. How boring to live in a world of just Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay. So this week I have chosen three tasty whites made from lesser-known grapes that offer flavour, texture and character but are not likely to be found in a supermarket. I was delighted to be sent a bottle of Angelo Gaja's 'Idda' from Carricante grapes grown on the slopes of Mount Etna recently and it was this that kicked off the idea. Gaja's Piedmont wines are mainly found in the cellars of the world's best restaurants and are simply unaffordable, so Idda at €65 is almost a bargain (almost). Also on the Sicily shelf watch out for Grillo, Catarratto and Inzolio and in red Nero d'Avola and Nerello Mascalese. I am due to visit Etna this September so I will have more to say on Sicily later in the year. Italy in general is a treasure trove of indigenous grapes, watch also for Greco, Falanghina, Pecorino, Garganega (Soave) and Fiano (Lidl have a good one). The entry level white below is from Godello, which has similar texture to Albarino but frequently more character. Also from Galicia watch for Treixadura (Ribeira), Loureira and Caiño Branco. These Galician grapes are also found in Portugal where you should try Antão Vaz, Arinto, Roupeiro, Encruzado and Fernão Pires to name just a few. Clio below is made with Assyrtiko which you may know but also Roditis and Savatino. Also from Greece watch for Moschofilero, Malagousia, Robolo and many others. I will return to this subject in a couple of weeks. Alma Godello, Monterrei, Spain €13.56 Alma Godello, Monterrei, Spain €13.56 O'Briens; Normally €17 this is a solid intro to the joys of Godello, Galicia's other great white grape. Monterrei is in southern Galicia on the Minho river but this grape is at its finest in Valdeorras further north or in Bierzo to the east. Baked pear and apple fruits with a hint of bitter lemon, creamy and layered with stony freshness and a bitter lemon zing. Clio The White Muse, Viotia, Greece, €19 Clio The White Muse, Viotia, Greece, €19 Cavavin Limerick & Galway; The Carpenter; The Lep; Wine Pair; Sweeneys; From just north of Thebes (home of Dionysis) in the Valley of the Muses beside Mount Helicon. This is a blend of Assyrtiko, Roditis and Savatiano, three of Greece's best white grapes. Lime, peach and pineapple aromas, sapid, fruity and juicy with delightful texture and balancing acidity; this worked brilliantly with barbecued pork chops. Idda by Gaja & Graci, Etna Bianco, Sicily, €65.99 Idda by Gaja & Graci, Etna Bianco, Sicily, €65.99 The Parting Glass; Foleys; and in the likes of Bar Italia, Chapter One and Ballyfin. Yes, it's expensive but it is a collab between Angelo Gaja & Alberto Graci. From late-ripening Carricante, this has aromas of grapefruit, anise and a touch of heady jasmine flowers; pristine and vibrant on first sip with weight and complexity following immediately and a taut finish with lingering minerality and salinity. Fascinating. Spirit of the Week Hawk's Rock 'Garavogue' 20 yr Single Malt, 47% ABV, €199 Hawk's Rock 'Garavogue' 20 yr Single Malt, 47% ABV, €199 World Wide Wines; CarryOut (e.g. Killarney); Celtic Whiskey; Matsons; The debut release from Sligo's Hawk's Rock Distillery, the first under Sazerac. Master Blender Helen Mulholland has come out strong with this stunner. Created from several cask finishes including Sauternes, Muscat, Rum and PX, yet they all melds seamlessly. Floral, honey and peach aromas, supple and beautifully smooth, pepper and fresh fruits on the finish. Whiskey of the year (so far!). Read More Wine with Leslie: Keep it in the family with these wine selections
San Francisco Chronicle
16-06-2025
- San Francisco Chronicle
This California wine region's coolest tasting room? The visitor center
There are more than 60 wine tasting rooms in the budding Lodi wine region, yet the best stopover is the last place you'd expect: the visitor center. Here, it's not about the decor (minimalist), the vibe (amiable) or even the inexpensive tasting fee (just $12). The main draw is the incredible wine selection: over 200 bottles from more than 70 local producers, most of which don't have their own tasting rooms. Located 35 miles south of Sacramento and long overshadowed by glitzy Bay Area destinations like Napa and Sonoma, Lodi (San Joaquin County) is a quiet farm town with no Michelin-starred restaurants or fancy resorts. The longtime home of the Robert Mondavi Winery-founded Woodbridge, it's historically known as a commodity region; the majority of Lodi's grapes are sold in bulk to California's largest wine companies and often placed on the bottom shelf. But this affordable region is slowly gaining recognition as one that's more diverse and premium than its reputation suggests. The 25-year-old Lodi Wine Visitor Center (2545 W. Turner Road), which is also the only true wine shop in the city, is leading the revival. In the ivy-covered, Tuscan-style building, you can find plenty of Lodi's signature Zinfandel, as well as natural wines, the Greek white wine Assyrtiko and an off-dry Verdelho made by a two-time Lodi mayor. All bottles are under $70. 'You can really come in and visually do a 360 in the tasting room and see how far (Lodi has) come and how many different types of wines there are,' said Stephanie Bolton, the research and education director of the grower-funded Lodi Winegrape Commission, which operates the center. 'Once you walk in the door, that becomes very clear.' Local tourism boards typically operate regional visitor centers, but Lodi is the only California wine region that has a visitor center dedicated exclusively to promoting local wines. It may seem surprising this isn't found in a region overflowing with wineries like Napa Valley, but Bolton believes that would create an overly competitive environment. 'You have to set a lot of fear and ego aside to do something like (this),' she said. Growers, on the other hand, all benefit from the collective effort. In Lodi, there's roughly 80,000 acres of grapes, but only about 85 wineries, and many of those winery owners were growers first, Bolton said. Increased demand for Lodi wines should translate to higher demand, and prices, for the grapes. 'There's a camaraderie and deep-rooted (feeling of), 'We're all in this together,'' said Paul Marsh, the visitor center's manager and wine club director. Founded in 2000, the Lodi Wine Visitor Center is located right off a main thoroughfare next to what many locals refer to as Lodi's 'one nice hotel,' Wine & Roses. The hotel was recently renamed Appellation Lodi – Wine & Roses Resort and Spa as part of a major renovation by celebrity wine country chef and hotelier Charlie Palmer. His new cafe, Maison Lodi, adjoins the visitor center. To establish the tasting room, which welcomes over 20,000 people a year, the Lodi Winegrape Commission had to create a 501(c)(3) educational foundation to secure an Alcohol Beverage Control license to serve and sell wine, recalled executive director Stuart Spencer. When it first opened in the same building as the commission's offices, the wine region had just seven tasting rooms, so the vision was to exclusively highlight wines made from Lodi grapes, including wines produced outside the region. The center still takes this seriously: Jeff Perlegos, co-owner of Perlegos Family Wine Co., said the commission rejected one of his wines because it was only partially made from Lodi grapes. Locals and industry members make up about 40% of the center's annual visitation, said Marsh, a former restaurateur and sommelier with red-rimmed glasses. But for tourists, it's designed to be the first stop on their visit, a sort of concierge that can help them curate an itinerary fit to their specific tastes. 'We have to be the stewards for Lodi right now, especially during this weird, wonky time in the wine business,' said Marsh. 'It's our job to make sure we get that person to that place they didn't know they needed to find.' Part of that stewardship is hiring qualified tasting hosts. '(Marsh) has had success recruiting sommeliers, which provides a very professional style tasting. Sometimes, you go into a tasting room and you just have people pouring the wine and they barely know their own product,' said Jeffrey Farthing, the longtime winemaker for Lodi's Michael David Winery. He sells wines from his small side project, Purple Corduroy, at the center. 'They have had a lot to do with the success of my teeny tiny brand,' he continued, estimating that the wine center sells over 60 cases of wine for him a year, almost as much as his distributor. 'They know me, they've taken the time to get to know me, learn the story of my wines, and they present that to the customer.' Lodi native and second-generation farmer Perlegos said his brand also 'benefits' from the staff's expertise as he works with some unconventional grapes like the Greek Assyrtiko and Sicily's Nero d'Avola. 'Our varieties are very different,' he said. 'They're very knowledgeable and they do a lot of work with the folks that come in there to educate them and show off what's different in Lodi versus other regions.' Wineries like Perlegos are slowly helping debunk the stereotype that Lodi is synonymous with big, high-alcohol red wines — mainly Zinfandel. 'Old Vine Zin is definitely the heartbeat of the area, but so many people are searching out Lodi fruit, not only because of the accessibility of it, but the fact you can do something Italian, Spanish or South African,' said Marsh, pointing to Pinotage, the stigmatized red grape that's most famous in South Africa, as an example. 'Some people are doing incredible Pinotage (in Lodi).' A tasting of four wines costs $12, and Marsh switches up the eight-wine lineup every week. 'The part that gets me is seeing that eyebrow raise. Someone says, 'I only drink Pinot Noir,' and I'll ask, 'When's the last time you had Carignan? Or Cinsault?' And a light bulb pops in their head,' he said. 'Everyone loves that old pair of Levi's that fits perfectly, but every once in a while, you've got to try a new pair of pants on and see if that changes some things.' Those eyebrow raisers have kept longtime local Barbara Rankin coming to the center about every month for the past decade. 'Variety is what I'm after. I want to find a gem,' she said. 'It's the only place to find cool, otherwise unknown wines.' Lodi Wine Visitor Center. 2545 W Turner Road, Lodi.
NDTV
09-06-2025
- NDTV
7 Luxury Honeymoon Hotspots For A Ridiculously Romantic Trip This Summer
Planning your honeymoon shouldn't feel like another task on your wedding to-do list. If you're leaning towards indulgent over economical and want somewhere that screams once-in-a-lifetime, we've got you covered. Whether it's an overwater villa in the Maldives or a chic vineyard hideaway in Portugal, these luxury honeymoon destinations are designed for pure escapism. Think postcard-perfect views, five-star perks, and plenty of "pinch me" moments. All picks have been thoroughly fact-checked, so you can book with confidence — and maybe even brag a little. Because let's be honest: After the big day, you deserve a getaway that's just as unforgettable. 1. The Maldives Best for: Barefoot luxury and serious privacy. It's not a cliche if it's true — the Maldives is honeymoon heaven. With more than 160 resorts scattered across the Indian Ocean, it's easy to find your dream villa, whether you want glass floors to watch fish swim by or a private pool that looks like it melts into the sea. Top pick? Soneva Jani, where you can slide from your room into the lagoon. The service is next-level, and it's about as remote and peaceful as you'll find. Plus, the weather in June through August is warm, with occasional tropical showers that pass quickly (and make for dramatic sunsets). 2. Santorini, Greece Best for: Dramatic views and ridiculously good food. Yes, it's busy in summer, but it's also when Santorini looks its best. Those iconic blue domes and chalk-white houses against the Aegean Sea are pure Instagram bait. Base yourselves in Oia for the best sunset spots, or try Imerovigli if you want the views without the crowds. For something ultra-luxe, check into Katikies Santorini or Canaves Oia Suites — both offer private plunge pools, top-tier dining, and a front-row seat to the caldera. Oh, and don't miss a day trip to the island's wineries. Santorini's Assyrtiko whites are perfect for toasting your new chapter. 3. Amalfi Coast, Italy Best for: Laid-back luxe with an Aperol spritz in hand. There's something effortlessly sexy about Italy's Amalfi Coast. Between Positano's pastel cliffside houses and Ravello's elegant hilltop vibes, this is honeymoon gold. It's also super accessible, with Naples airport a short drive away. Stay at Le Sirenuse if you want to be in the heart of Positano, or Belmond Hotel Caruso in Ravello for sweeping sea views and infinity pool goals. Expect lots of pasta, lemon everything, and winding coastal roads that make you feel like you're in a Bond film. 4. Kyoto, Japan Best for: Foodies and couples who want something different. While most tourists rush to Tokyo, honeymooners in the know head to Kyoto. Summer brings lush greenery and fewer crowds than spring's cherry blossom season, and you'll find some of Japan's most beautiful temples, gardens, and ryokans here. For a true splurge, Aman Kyoto sits tucked into a forest with minimal design and onsen -style baths. Spend your days wandering through bamboo groves, sipping matcha, and slipping into traditional kaiseki dinners that feel more like theatre than meals. 5. Bali, Indonesia Best for: Spa days, private villas, and a mix of culture and chill. Bali ticks all the honeymoon boxes: It's lush, luxurious, and surprisingly good value for what you get. Summer is actually the dry season here (May to September), so you'll get plenty of sunshine and warm weather without the crowds you'd find in Europe. Head to Ubud for jungle stays like Capella Ubud or Como Shambhala Estate, where wellness is taken seriously and the villas come with private plunge pools. Then wind down with a few beach days in Uluwatu or Seminyak, where infinity pools meet clifftop bars and candlelit dinners are a nightly affair. 6. Comporta, Portugal Best for: Stylish beach bums. Just over an hour from Lisbon, Comporta is the kind of place fashion editors go to not be seen. It's all wild beaches, pine forests, and low-key luxe —no big resorts, just boutique stays and eco-chic villas. Book into Sublime Comporta for rustic-modern suites and excellent farm-to-table dining. Days here are slow: cycle to the beach, hit up the local seafood shacks, then watch the sunset with a bottle of chilled vinho verde. It's honeymooning without the fuss — but all the flair. 7. Bora Bora, French Polynesia Best for: Honeymooners who want to go all out. Yes, it's expensive. Yes, it's far. But if you're only doing this once, Bora Bora delivers on every fantasy. Think emerald-green peaks, turquoise lagoons, and overwater bungalows that make the Maldives look busy. The St. Regis Bora Bora Resort is honeymoon royalty — Beyonce and Jay-Z stayed here, so you know it's top-tier. You'll spend your days snorkelling with stingrays, sipping coconut cocktails, and wondering if you really have to go back to reality.
Vogue
26-05-2025
- Vogue
How to Plan a Greek Honeymoon Fit for the Gods
For couples seeking a quintessential honeymoon, Greece takes the (syrup-soaked) cake. This ancient destination is one of those perennial favorites that, pardon the cliché, really has it all. The landscapes alone! 'From sun-drenched islands and cliffside villages to mountain hideaways and historic cities, you can spend one day sailing in turquoise waters and the next wandering through ruins,' says Helen Patrikis, the Greek founder of HP-PR. The country's architecture, steeped in millennia of history, also has a hand in shaping the cinematic atmosphere. (Nothing says 'honeymoon' quite like a glass of Assyrtiko overlooking a crumbling temple.) And then, there's the food. If you've never savored grilled octopus at a taverna by the water's edge (preferably after a refreshing swim), a honeymoon is a good time to remedy that. But what's most special, Patrikis argues, is the way it makes you feel. 'Greeks have a word, philoxenia, meaning 'friend to strangers'—a true spirit of hospitality.' Anyone who's visited Greece can attest to this. 'The pace is slower, the people are kind, and it's surprisingly easy to find places that feel personal,' Essentialist founder and CEO Joan Roca says. And as far as romance-fueled experiences go, this Mediterranean jewel doesn't hold back. 'To me, a day spent at sea always brings that sense of rejuvenation and calm you crave on a honeymoon,' Cosal Travel founder Andrea Blackmon tells Vogue. 'The experience of diving off a boat into the crystal clear waters, sipping chilled wine on deck, and docking at a local taverna for fresh seafood simply cannot be beat.' So, it's settled. There's no honeymoon quite like a Greece honeymoon. If you and your partner are in the planning stages of your inaugural adventure as a married couple, our expert-led guide ahead will tell you everything you need to know for planning an itinerary fit for the gods. The Best Time to Travel to Greece
Irish Times
05-05-2025
- Irish Times
Santorini in the shoulder months: No crowds, just stunning food, wine and views
The Greek island of Santorini is a place of staggering beauty. Whitewashed houses cling to sheer volcanic cliffs as if hanging on for dear life, blue domes pop against the sky like scattered marbles, and the caldera's jagged walls – streaked with deep crimson, burnt umber, and molten gold – plunge into sapphire waters below. The island, once a neat circular shape, was dramatically restructured when a volcano decided to make some rather radical renovations several thousand years ago. I had never been. Never even been to Greece, in fact, a shortcoming that had long cast a shadow over my otherwise distinguished record of sunburn-related misadventures. And with Santorini's summer crowds at their worst, it seemed increasingly unlikely I ever would. But then, quite out of the blue, an invitation arrived. Shoulder season. Kivotos Santorini hotel. A room carved into the cliffs. A terrace with an uninterrupted view of the caldera. The kind of opportunity that makes one feel ever so slightly smug. This was before the earthquakes in January. Earthquakes are part of life in Santorini. It sits on one of the most geologically lively bits of real estate in the Mediterranean, with not one but two volcanoes – one of which, Kolumbo, lurks just off the coast, still simmering beneath the sea. The locals take them in their stride, and schoolchildren practise monthly drills. READ MORE Churches are another defining feature – more than 600 of them scattered about – some barely large enough to hold a devout family. Some were built in moments of great religious fervour; others, so the locals will whisper, were constructed in strategic proximity to houses that may or may not have been built in strict compliance with the local planning regulations. But to dwell too long on zoning laws would be to miss the point. Because beyond the precipices of volcanic rock and dramatic geology, Santorini is also a place of rather fine eating and drinking, once you know where to go. The volcanic soil, the salt air and the wind that whips through the vines have given rise to flavours so distinct they could never belong anywhere else. Start in Fira, a warren of white alleys, the occasional flash of blue sea between buildings, the scent of souvlaki curling through the air. It is a place where cruise-ship crowds and luxury shoppers jostle past Missoni and Chopard boutiques, while stalls peddle evil-eye bracelets and floaty kaftans. By night the place roars to life. Restaurants spill on to terraces and bars crank up the volume as cocktails and Assyrtiko flow like some ancient bacchanalian rite. It's easy to be drawn to the terrace restaurants, all competing for the sunset, but better to slip down a side street to Lucky's – a no-frills gyros spot where the set-up is gloriously simple. A long bar, a pork grill on one side, a chicken grill on the other. Bread hits the flat top, chips fry steadily in the background, and the meat – golden, crisp-edged, glistening – is shaved straight into warm pita with tomato, onion, and tzatziki. It is €4. You grab a seat, crack open an ice-cold beer, and consume the whole glorious mess straight from the greaseproof paper while three chaps keep the operation running with effortless efficiency, including Lucky himself, taking payment at the end. The road out of Fira winds high above the sea, past vineyards and sheer drops, the land veering between deep black, rust-red and pale white. Eventually, Oia appears, the most photographed town on the island, its polished marble streets winding towards the ruins of a Venetian castle. Here, you will find Apsithia , a place for an inexpensive lunch with an uninterrupted view of the caldera. Roka restaurant in Oia. Photograph: Corinna Hardgrave Galini Fish Tavern, Santorini. Photograph: Corinna Hardgrave Fira, Santorini. Photograph: Yiannis Skoulas The food is just as striking. The souvlaki arrives beautifully charred, skewered pork marinated and grilled, crisp outside and tender within, wrapped in warm pita with tzatziki, tomato and red onion. The moussaka is unapologetically indulgent – golden-topped with nutmeg-scented béchamel, layers of soft aubergine and spiced lamb. For something even more removed from the tourist fray, Roka sits quietly on a shaded terrace with blue-painted beams overhead and trailing lilac blooms. No caldera view, but it doesn't need one. A goat's cheese tart is light and sharp, the smoked aubergine something between a mousse and a soufflé, full of depth without being heavy. The seafood is done simply – a whole grilled sea bream arrives in thick, charred fillets with puréed peas and delicate vegetables, while the squid is served as an imposing, flame-seared cylinder of torso, rather than the usual rings. The wine list is serious, the pours generous and the general sense of well-fed tranquillity overwhelming. Farther south, the road winds towards Monolithos, where Galini Fish Tavern sits unassumingly by the water – the kind of family-run fish taverna you always hope to find but rarely do. The seafood is fresh and unfussy – whole sea bass, red snapper or sea bream, grilled, filleted tableside, and served with fries and olive oil-lemon dressing. The appetisers' plate is a feast of Santorini's best – tomato fritters, crisp courgettes, fava beans and slivers of white aubergine – all golden-fried and absurdly light. We follow with the mixed fish for two, exceptional value at €45. Dessert is baklava with vanilla ice cream and a drizzle of Vinsanto – a sharp contrast of warm spice and cool dairy. Higher up, in the hills of Exo Gonia, is Metaxi Mas , a restaurant in a quiet village above the vineyards with sweeping views to the sea. A cobbled street leads to a terrace shaded by woven straw canopies, with fabric-covered tables and heaters for cooler evenings. It feels hidden away, but it's one of the most beloved restaurants on the island. The meal begins with bread, olives and a small carafe of raki, strong and clear, poured into tiny glasses. Starters arrive bubbling hot – a rich, cheesy broccoli soufflé, edges crisp and golden, and baked asparagus, creamy, soft, just scorched on top. The main courses are generous. The lamb, slow-cooked until it barely clings to the bone, is served with sugar-sweet tomatoes and a grain dish, possibly bulgur. The beef fillet in Vinsanto sauce is rich, the wine's sweetness adding nuance, served with mushrooms, asparagus and roasted baby potatoes. A wine tasting in Santorini is essential. At Gaia Winery (€20), it's a sun-drenched lesson in terroir, set on the island's eastern coastline with waves crashing just beyond the terrace. Assyrtiko, Santorini's flagship grape, grows in tight, low kouloura baskets to survive the island's fierce winds, its roots driving deep into volcanic soil so barren that phylloxera never took hold. The wines reflect this struggle – bracing, mineral, sharpened by drought. The tasting moves from Assyrtiko to a rosé, a rich, oak-aged Nykteri, and finally Vinsanto, Santorini's sun-dried answer to dessert wine. Estate Argyros winery. Photograph: Corinna Hardgrave Galini Fish Tavern Food at Absithia. Photograph: Corinna Hardgrave A few kilometres from Gaia, in the centre of the island, Argyros Estate takes a forensic approach to winemaking. The vast, modern production facility hums with optical sorting machines, yet outside, the vineyards tell an older story. Two hundred-year-old Assyrtiko vines still grow in baskets, while alongside them the estate experiments with a vertical training system, lifting the vines slightly higher to improve airflow. There is no irrigation – just mist off the sea. Tastings take place on a terrace beside these two worlds, with citrus-edged Assyrtiko, oak-aged Nykteri, and Vinsanto – aged in underground vats. Santorini's architecture is shaped by its volcanic past. When the island first emerged, it was covered in black and grey volcanic rock – the first settlers built cave-like homes using these materials, mixing ash with water in place of cement. The island's early buildings were dark, blending into the landscape. Today, strict regulations enforce the whitewashed Cycladic aesthetic, but there are exceptions. Kivotos Santorini , perched in Imerovigli, the island's highest and most dramatic caldera village, has taken a different approach. Its dark stone facade is a quiet nod to the island's past, its stark beauty standing out against the pale perfection of its surroundings. A suite at Kivotos Santorini A room with a view at Kivotos Santorini The views are staggering – an uninterrupted sweep of blue, cradled by the caldera's steep, sun-scorched walls. The hotel itself, opened in 2019, is an exercise in exclusivity – just 10 suites and one villa, each with private pools or Jacuzzis, interiors that manage to be both cave-like and luxurious, and stunning terraces with views of the caldera that make it close to impossible to leave the resort. For those without the good fortune (or well-padded bank account) to stay, the terrace is open to nonresidents, offering cocktails, dinner and a front-row seat to one of nature's most theatrical sunsets for those who book ahead. The terrace is where you will find Mavro restaurant, where seasonal produce such as fava beans and sun-dried tomatoes are not merely served but transformed. Tomatoes are cured in seaweed (kombu-jime), artichokes softened using an old Santorinian technique, and fish cooked in volcanic ash. Even the bread and cocktails take their cues from the land, with volcanic ash sneaking its way into vinaigrettes and infusions. Santorini's extreme terroir shapes more than just the wine. At Mavro, dishes reference the land itself – fossilised shrimp nods to prehistoric finds in the island's caves; another dish echoes the mist (anhéla) that rises from the sea and waters the vines at night. Wine appears in unexpected ways – Assyrtiko barrels are used to smoke risotto rice, citrus peels from cocktails are repurposed into miso. It is a place where the island's past, present and possible future sit at the same table. Most importantly, the food is superb – carefully constructed, precise, but never overwrought. At Mavro, they distil Santorini's history on to the plate with the finesse of an artist and the curiosity of a scientist, balancing innovation with a deep respect for the island's produce. Beyond the staggering views and the endless camera clicks, food and wine are not an afterthought in Santorini. The scent of charred fish wafting into the air, the clean bite of Assyrtiko, the heat rising off marble streets, it all stays with you. It is an island where food and wine are shaped by fire and salt, where vines hug the earth to escape the wind, where even the tomatoes are different – smaller, sharper, more intense. Santorini is best savoured beyond the crowds. In the shoulder months, the island breathes. The caldera is quiet, the roads are open, the best tables are waiting. And with a glass of Assyrtiko in hand, the sea stretching luminously ahead, there is nowhere else quite like it. Corinna Hardgrave was a guest of Kivotos Santorini Santorini notebook Lucky's Souvlakis, Dekigala, Fira, +30-2286-022003 Absithia, Nik. Nomikou, +30-2286-071038, Roka, 6, Oía. +30-2286-071896, Galini Fish Tavern, Μονόλιθος, Ag. Paraskevi, +30-2286-032924 Metaxi Mas, Έξω Γωνιά, +30-2286-031323, Gaia Wines, Θέση Βραχειές, Έξω Γωνιά, Perivolia. tel: +30-2286-034186, Estate Argyros, Episkopi Gonias, +30-2286-031489, Kivotos Santorini, Imerovigli, +30-2286-028490,
